Getting rid of cyanobacteria

shmeeb

Member
Hi all. A few weeks ago I finally switched from cc to sand (well worth it, but what a pain). My livestock did not seem affected by the change, everything was going pretty well. Recently however a outbreak of cyanobacteria has begun covering my substrate. My levels are all still where they should be. I've been running my lights for 12 hours a day, and I've heard that cutting that back to 7-8 hours may produce results. Would this have any negative affects on my coral (zooanthids, yellow polyps, hairy mushrooms, and some star polyps)?
Unrelated question: In the non-too-distant future I plan on incorporating a sump/refugium via a CPR overflow (sadly my tank is not drilled). Has anyone used these? I'm somewhat worried about the siphon breaking, despite all the steps CPR has taken to avoid this.
Some tank info: 55 gal, 260 watt PC (1/2 actinic, 1/2 10000K), 95 # LR, 40 # aragonite, amiracle ps/2 protein skimmer, 3 Maxi Jet 1200s.
Thanks for your help.
 

bang guy

Moderator
You don't want to rid your tank completely of Cyanobacter, just the excess living on your sand bed. This is a sign that you have excess nutrients in your tank. The short term solution is to siphon it out at the end of the day before the lights go off. The long term is dealing with the nutrient problem. Cutting back on feeding, adding an algae refugium, phosphate removers, etc will all help. The DSB will start doing its part in a few months and it is definately a player in the long term success.
 

jlem

Active Member
I tried to read it, I really did.:D
Here are a few things.
7-8 hours of proper reef lighting is plenty of light for a tank that is in a room with windows.
Low water circulation around the algae can cause cyano outbreaks
Over feeding can cause it by introducing excess nutrients. Feeding youe fish once a day what the fish will consume in about 1 minute is plenty. Hungry fish will scavenge a tank for food and keep the waste down.
RO/DI water makes things so much easier
 

shmeeb

Member
Informative post, thanks 007. Bang guy, I don't actually feed my guys (bi-color blenny, yellow watchman, neon goby) enough that I can cut back on it (they eat so little that to cut back I'd have to stop feeding them altogether), but I will be putting in the refugium. Redirecting some current over the substrate seems easy to do as well. Thanks much.
 

shmeeb

Member
Jlem, you're very right about the RO/DI water, switched about a year ago to get rid of a diotom problem. Worked like a charm.
 

shmeeb

Member
I figured there was some chem that would do it, but I try to avoid using such unless I really have no other choice. Thanks for the info though.
 

beachbumtx

Member

Originally posted by shmeeb
I figured there was some chem that would do it, but I try to avoid using such unless I really have no other choice. Thanks for the info though.

I used some about two weeks ago. It takes 48 hours to treat and it worked like a charm. You do have to do a normal water change after full treatment.
EDIT: Added Info:
I tried to get rid of the cyanobacteria without using a treatment. I tried stirring up the sand before the lights went out. Didn't work. I tried to siphon out the top layer befor ethe lights went off, didn't work. So I gave it a treatment of ChemiClean. BAM...that did it.
Now that my culerpa in my fuge has rebounded, there should be enough to take out extra nutrients to prevent cyanobacteria from becoming visible.
 

jhueb12

Member
I had this same problem and erethromyacin, i know i butchered that spelling, took care of it too...but as posted before it is only a temporary fix, different water change habits and more flow kept it away.:D
 

gonfishin

Member
I had a real bad cyano problem and after trying what I thought was everything (increased flow, new bulbs, decreased time lights were on, added caulpera, etc.) After no results I used myacin and cyano was gone.
One month later it came back. Tested phosphorus and nothing but read steveweast thread on phosphorus and added rowaphos to my hang on filter. 5 days later cyano is gone. Thank you Steve and hope this helps others!!!
 
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