Ghetto Chiller for 200 gallon reef???

deeze

deeze

Member
Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone out there has made a cheap chiller. My new 200 gallon tank setup has MH lighting and the water gets pretty warm. I put a 12" Hurricane Fan from Target just above my sump which is pretty nice and helps my evaporation (free water change) but just can't seem to keep up. After alllll the expenses of setting up this new system I'm not really wanting to buy a chiller.
I wanted to get your opinion on a thought I had. Sears sells a 1.7 cubic foot mini fridge and my plan is to run some 1/4" RO tubing into it with a small pump. I figure I'll poke the line through the rubber seal that holds the door shut and glue it tight with some Liquid Nails or something. Then have about 25 to 50 feet of RO tubing in there so it can have a long contact time and then run it back to the aquarium. I figure the water will lack oxygen while it's in the dark fridge but I'll dump it back where my overflows drop in my sump. Seems like this would work pretty well and save me hundreds. what do you think?
 
ray28576

ray28576

Member
I was just thinking that same thing the other day, because I'm having the same problem with my 30 Gl tank. The only problem I could think of is it may get to cold and there wont be no sensor for it to kick its self off. But it might just work. If you try it, keep me posted.
 
deeze

deeze

Member
Yea, those are great thoughts. I was thinking the very same things. I figure I'll start with the fridge fully cool and then slowly bring the temperature down depending on how often my heaters on (during the day when lights are on). I figure the heater will run all night unless I put the "ghetto fridge pump" on a timer to turn off about 2 hours after lights off. I'll slowly start with turning the fridge down and then if that doesn't work (which it should) I'll start shortening the RO tube that's in there to cut down on contact time. I've decided to do it so I will definitely keep you posted.
 
omgsaltwat

omgsaltwat

Member
I hope it works for you but I just can't see it. Heat up a cup of water to your tanks temp put it in the fridge see how cool it gets in ten mins I think it want be more than 2or 3 degrees lower and even at 50ft I don't think you could get a pump to run that slow ( to take 10 mins to get all the way in and out).......JMO
 
deeze

deeze

Member
Yea, I think your right. I bought the setup and also purchased 100 feet of tubing. It has a little freezer in it and I may put the first 20 feet in that while the waters warm (to prevent the line from freezing).
 
spectre879

spectre879

Member
I dont know if this is practical or just stupid, but here it goes :notsure: . If you have plenty of tubing, try coiling that tubing for about 4 or 5 times. Leave about an 1 1/2 between each coil. Place the coiling inside of a container or sump compartment and connect it to the outgoing or incoming sump lines. In side of the container within the coil place a small block of dry-ice that at max, is about 1 inch from the coils. Fill the container or compartment if possible to prevent energy from being lost in the space between parts. The water coming from the tank or going back into will be cooled in the coiled tube as it runs through the system. Dry-ice is fairly cheap and is not harmful if properly handled.
DISCLAIMER:THIS IS JUST A THOUGHT...I DONT KNOW IF IT WOULD WORK BUT ITS A START. Maybe someone can improve upon it. PLEASE DO NOT GIVE ME FLAK FOR THIS!!!
 
stone

stone

Member
Originally Posted by Spectre879
I dont know if this is practical or just stupid, but here it goes :notsure: . If you have plenty of tubing, try coiling that tubing for about 4 or 5 times. Leave about an 1 1/2 between each coil. Place the coiling inside of a container or sump compartment and connect it to the outgoing or incoming sump lines. In side of the container within the coil place a small block of dry-ice that at max, is about 1 inch from the coils. Fill the container or compartment if possible to prevent energy from being lost in the space between parts. The water coming from the tank or going back into will be cooled in the coiled tube as it runs through the system. Dry-ice is fairly cheap and is not harmful if properly handled.
DISCLAIMER:THIS IS JUST A THOUGHT...I DONT KNOW IF IT WOULD WORK BUT ITS A START. Maybe someone can improve upon it. PLEASE DO NOT GIVE ME FLAK FOR THIS!!!

Not bad, but I put a water sump " Wet chiller "in the fridg and coiled the tube in it inside the fridge. I had the fridge laying around so I didnt have to invest to much. Its true its only good for 2or 3 degrees but beggars cant be choosers. I all so run a fan across the surface of the water. My house gets VERY hot I only have window A/C units.
PS: I didnt come up with the wet chiller I found it on the net email me for link they have lots of DIY plans michael.primeau@verizon.net
 
spectre879

spectre879

Member
I like the idea and concept Stone. I was hopeing(MAN I SUCK AT SPELLING) that my idea would be an easy, quick and cheap method seeing that there are already materials availible for use. The coils with tank water provide greater surface area for the water to cool from, much like how a refrigerator works.

---ERER-drop the water part though, water and dry-ice create carbon dioxide gas (CO2)!!
 
symon

symon

Member
What if you took a bucket lined it with the tubing so that it had 1/4 inch between tubing and sides of the bucket, then you fill the bucket with water put it in the fridge,this will give you more surface for cooling the water!
You will still need a way to control the flow reefkeepr can monitor you temp and turn on and off a pump when needed.
There is my 2 cents!
 
tthemadd1

tthemadd1

Active Member
I have a 1/2 hp chiller sitting in my basement that hasnt been hooked up since I moved to Boston. I believe it is an Aquamedic. It has been awhile since I really took a look at it. If you would like to purchase I will take offers. After I get the specs I will post them here.
Themadd1
 
deeze

deeze

Member
Hey guys... my Ghetto Chiller works great... and doesn't. Water going into the chiller is 80 degrees and coming out on the other side it's 73.2. NICE!!!... so I thought. My problem is that the overall volume of water is just too great to keep up. I just have 1/4 inch OD freezer line running through and it's just not outputting enough volume. I could set up a second line and pump but I just think I'm wasting time.
Good point about the Reefkeeper... I have one and was planning to do that too. However I'm running some of the line through the mini freezer and would risk the water freezing if it stopped so I just fully committed... if it over cooled I'd just let my heater take care of it.
I'm sure this setup is great for the right tank... I think it would be great for a 100 gallon or smaller. Here's what I did:
Went to Sears and bought a 1.7 cubic foot mini fridge for $74.99.
Bought 80 feet of freezer line and couplings (because I could only buy in 20' sections).
Some Great Stuff insulation foam (for the holes I popped in the seals).
hooked it all up to a 80 GPH mini pump.
Coiled the first 30 feet or so in the mini freezer and the rest in the fridge.
Cut two small holes in the rubber seal that holds the doors shut.
Turned it on and let her rip.
 
deeze

deeze

Member
I might be interested in the chiller too. How many hours has it run (or years)? Do you have any pictures?
 
bang guy

bang guy

Moderator
The mini-fridge chiller will not ever work long term.
There is a reason chillers are rated by horsepower and not by watts.
 
deeze

deeze

Member
10-4... stubburn me had to learn the hard way.
Hey Bang Guy, do you think the 1/5 HP model would work best for me? I'm looking at the one by Arctica Titanium. It's rated 2400 BTU's an hour. 8 to 22 gpm.
My tank is 150 up top with a 50 gallon refugium below. Two 250w MH HQI's. Several pumps which I know put off a little heat. 2 pumps for the returns, 1 pump for the right/left current and one for the AquaC skimmer. Also another for the UV.
 
deeze

deeze

Member
I guess that is an important part...
Seems to want to climb to about 81 approaching 82.
I'd like to maintain 77 or 78 consistently...
Everything above is with only running my lights for 6 hours a day. I'd like to move that up to around 9 or 10 in the end.
When the lights are off everything cools to 77 and my heater kicks on after a few hours...
 
bang guy

bang guy

Moderator
You'll be fine with the 1/5 HP chiller.
That being said, I would tend to keep the tank at 82 - 83 and set the heaters to come on at 82F.
 
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