Give-up

[scarecrow]

Ok I give up !!!!! How often am I suppose to add water to my 30 gal tank? It seems as if I am adding water once a week and every time I add water something in my tank dies ??? I am using 3/4 tap and 1/4 Dasani w/5 ml's of API conditioner. Please help I added water last night angel is dead this am

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by scarecrow http:///t/393728/give-up#post_3503349
Ok I give up !!!!! How often am I suppose to add water to my 30 gal tank? It seems as if I am adding water once a week and every time I add water something in my tank dies ??? I am using 3/4 tap and 1/4 Dasani w/5 ml's of API conditioner. Please help I added water last night angel is dead this am
Hi,
What are the water test results? Also tap water has all kinds of junk in it, such as fluoride besides the chlorine. Lots of bottled water has also been messed with. That's why we ONLY use PURE RO (reverse osmoses) water. It's cheaper to purchase your RO water from a refill station in a grocery store than to buy bottled water. The Walmart by me sells RO water for 37 cents a gallon....I bring my own jugs.
Post test results for:
Nitrates:
Phosphates:
Ammonia:
Nitrites:
What is your SG? Just making sure here....you do top off with freshwater not saltwater, correct?
I have a feeling your Dasani water is to blame: I looked up this information.
Coca-Cola uses tap water from local municipal water supplies[sup][3], filters it using the process of reverse osmosis[4][/sup], and adds trace amounts of minerals, including magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt), potassium chloride and table salt (sodium chloride).
Regular Dasani water comes in the following sizes: 12 oz; 20 oz; 24 oz 'Sports Cap Bottle'; 1 L; 1.5 L; 300 mL; 12 oz fridge pack; 500 mL 6, 12, 24, and 32-pack; and the 24 oz 6-pack.

 

[slice]

Quote:
Originally Posted by scarecrow http:///t/393728/give-up#post_3503349
Ok I give up !!!!! How often am I suppose to add water to my 30 gal tank? It seems as if I am adding water once a week and every time I add water something in my tank dies ??? I am using 3/4 tap and 1/4 Dasani w/5 ml's of API conditioner. Please help I added water last night angel is dead this am
I add RODI to make up for evaporation twice a day.

 

[meowzer]

why do you add Dasani? Is the api conditioner a chlorine remover? how much are you adding?
ANOTHER ??? How old is this tank and what is in it? what equipment do you have? powerheads??? and YES water reading?
BTW I add water to my 29G every couple of days but use ro/di

 

[scarecrow]

What is pure RO?

 

[xcali1985]

My auto top off kicks on 4 times a day average. I would probably top off once a day manually if I didn't have it. I suspect that it's something more than the water you are adding, however, I will address your concerns.
The minerals they add into bottled water are to make them taste good. Pure water (RO) does not taste good. In addition it's worth mentioning that RODI water is actually harmful for you.
Pure RO water is water that has gone through a Reverse Osmosis membrane. Usually resulting in a TDS of about 2-10. Tap water has a TDS of about 400-450 at least in my area. When you add a conditioner it actually raises that TDS. The EPA regulates water at facility to be less than 500 TDS by law.
Anyways, basically what I am saying has been said earlier in this thread. If you are using anything except RO water and if you can RODI water then you are basically setting yourself up for failure.
Continued use of tap water will cause problems like, hair algae, bubble algae, cyano, etc. You will spend lots more trying to battle these situations than you would when you buy an RODI unit and make the water yourself.
Actually I did spot something that was posted in the thread above. The water dispensers at most grocery stores are not "pure RO" they add things into their water for taste also.
The only way to get RO water is in bottles clearly labeled as so and preferrably with a TDS number on it. From your local fish store, and from yourself by purchasing a unit and making it yourself.
Also a TDS handheld checker is a good investment, even your LFS can be giving you bad water.
Im going strictly off your post count and join date here, but there are some great articles at the top of this section that will serve you well to getting the tank corrected. Even for a person as experienced as I am, I look it over every now and again to refresh information.

 

[sepulatian]

Scarecrow, you HAVE to test your SG. Don't just guess when to top off. Also adding tap and Dasani, without knowing what is in either isn't a good idea. What are you using to test you SG now?

 

[scarecrow]

I have not tested it will be buying the RO water and test kit what is the test kit called?

 

[sepulatian]

You don't test your salt level?? Oh lordy, before you buy ANYTHING else, purchase a refractometer, and a test kit that tests ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and PH. Post those results. We will help you from there...

 

[scarecrow]

Ok will do thank- you I also have been noticing white hair like stuff on my rocks and I looked it up it appears to be hair algae ?

 

[flower]

A refractometer is the most accurate, but it must be ordered ($50.00+), I have yet to find a fish store that sells them. However a hydrometer is an easy cheap gizmo (under $6.00) to test SG. The red Sea brand is the easiest to use, I hated the deep six one. Refractometers read SG perfectly, but we don't really need that amount of accuracy unless you are treating a sick fish doing hypo.
Your very next purchase is a good beginner SW aquarium book. If you don't know about matching SG, I'm sure there is a ton of oops you are doing that you don't even know to ask about. Keep us posted on what is going on, and what your doing...we are all here to help.

 

[scarecrow]

Thanks again

 

[sjmertl07]

Reverse Osmosis, I get a 5 gal bucket of purified water from my local fish store, and I have a 55 gal and I have to re-fill evaporated water every other day (but I have an open top tank). After time my Salt level decreased so I have just nor re-filled or topped off with Reef water from my store. I was also told to use a PH Buffer because my PH level was very low too, I just lost 2 damsels within a week! Plus my Seabae Clown looks a bit thin on top (sunken in) but my other fish are doing fine though..so we'll see.

 

[scarecrow]

Sorry to hear that I am babysitting my grandson till this afternoon then plan to go buy test kit and RO water would love to get this tank stable but I guess I need to be patient not one of my strong suits but I am working on it.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by sjmertl07 http:///t/393728/give-up#post_3503536
Reverse Osmosis, I get a 5 gal bucket of purified water from my local fish store, and I have a 55 gal and I have to re-fill evaporated water every other day (but I have an open top tank). After time my Salt level decreased so I have just nor re-filled or topped off with Reef water from my store. I was also told to use a PH Buffer because my PH level was very low too, I just lost 2 damsels within a week! Plus my Seabae Clown looks a bit thin on top (sunken in) but my other fish are doing fine though..so we'll see.
Hi, your salt level should NEVER just decrease, you should top off every day. Mark the line of water on your tank and always refill with RO water to that line. Water evaporates but the salt stays, by topping off we mean that you keep the level of water always the same. If you are doing regular water changes, there is no reason to add buffer for the PH. The PH is lowest in the morning and highest at lights out...so the best time to do the PH test is in the middle of the day.
That sunken in look sounds like a condition that is called HLLE

 

[xcali1985]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/393728/give-up#post_3503604
Hi, your salt level should NEVER just decrease, you should top off every day. Mark the line of water on your tank and always refill with RO water to that line. Water evaporates but the salt stays, by topping off we mean that you keep the level of water always the same. If you are doing regular water changes, there is no reason to add buffer for the PH. The PH is lowest in the morning and highest at lights out...so the best time to do the PH test is in the middle of the day.
That sunken in look sounds like a condition that is called HLLE
I would agree that a sunken head on a fish is not from salinity or feeding. You have a sick fish! There are several reasons for sunken heads, some are non-transferable, however, other can be transferred from fish to fish. If I were you I would be looking at cause and effects and attempt treatment in a QT environment.

 

[sepulatian]

As you can see, you will get advice of all kinds. Do your own research and see what works best for you. I had a swing arm hydrometer that read that my tanks SG was at 1.025 and it was actually at 1.032 when tested with a refractometer (that I bought for $39.99), which is really high for most fish. Specific gravity refers to the amount of dissolved salt in the tank, which amounts to the density of the water, which also effects the oxygen, and everything else in that water. You need to be accurate... You can test and be sure or just guess and mark a line. Again, it's up to you. PH should not be fluctuating much. Maybe by a point or two, but that's all. Your substrate has a lot to do with how stable your PH will be.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by sepulatian http:///t/393728/give-up#post_3503671
As you can see, you will get advice of all kinds. Do your own research and see what works best for you. I had a swing arm hydrometer that read that my tanks SG was at 1.025 and it was actually at 1.032 when tested with a refractometer (that I bought for $39.99), which is really high for most fish. Specific gravity refers to the amount of dissolved salt in the tank, which amounts to the density of the water, which also effects the oxygen, and everything else in that water. You need to be accurate... You can test and be sure or just guess and mark a line. Again, it's up to you. PH should not be fluctuating much. Maybe by a point or two, but that's all. Your substrate has a lot to do with how stable your PH will be.
Just a small comment on why I said use/get the hydrometer and the reason for a difference in advice . Sepulatian is correct that a refractometer is what you should get. I only piped in because you had an immediate problem that needed to be addressed and ordering a refractometer would take too long. I also want to explain something important... The SG needs to be stable and constant. If Sepulatian's SG was at 1.032 every time she did a water change and made sure to match it..the critters would be fine...constant is the key word. Sea creatures can't handle change very well...and that goes for everything from SG to the temperature and everything in between.
A refractometer absolutely must be used to do hypo because you have to be exact on the reading. I don't mind paying more for the best to start with, and it only makes sense to do so, I don't know why the pet stores don't carry them. I have 4 pet stores that I go to around my house, even the big Brand ones like ***** and PetSmart I know there are others besides, and none of them carry a refractometer. The only time I ever even heard of one was on this site.
I used the same Red Sea hydrometer for 8 years, when I finally replaced it with a refractometer they matched exactly. I always rinsed my hydrometer before and after use or the little arm would stick. I paid $3.99 for the hydrometer when I purchased it new, (they cost $6.00 now) and I paid $56.00 for my portable refractometer 2 years ago. The hydrometers can be found in every single pet store.

 

[sepulatian]

I agree Flower, consistency is key. I can only speak for my own experiences, as can you. I had a deep six hydrometer, that cost me maybe $6. I had heard, from many others on this site, that the readings can be off. I asked, well are they normally higher or lower? Thinking maybe I can do the math and compensate. The readings vary. What you believe to be consistent may not be. With all of the money that we put into these tanks, who the heck wants to worry about the extra $30 for an accurate instrument? Not me.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by sepulatian http:///t/393728/give-up#post_3503777
I agree Flower, consistency is key. I can only speak for my own experiences, as can you. I had a deep six hydrometer, that cost me maybe $6. I had heard, from many others on this site, that the readings can be off. I asked, well are they normally higher or lower? Thinking maybe I can do the math and compensate. The readings vary. What you believe to be consistent may not be. With all of the money that we put into these tanks, who the heck wants to worry about the extra $30 for an accurate instrument? Not me.
My Red Sea hydrometer looked very cloudy because of exposure to the salt over the years...so I purchased the deep 6, what a waste of my $6.00. The instructions said to season the hydrometer for 24 hours before use, it didn't help... and it never read the same thing twice even moments after, so I went back to my little cloudy Red Sea one for many years. When I found this site, back in 2009, was the first time I had ever heard of a refractometer. I asked the pet stores and they hadn't either. One place, a mom and pop store, told me it was an outrageously priced gizmo, and a regular hydrometer was just as good for so much less....however, at the time they had never heard of hypo for getting rid of ich either. The store owner told me all SW fish tanks had ich, and only weak fish would be contaminated and he also sold those reef safe remedies....now I order my critters on line. I use the pet store for equipment and salt purchases only and 99% of the time they don't have the good equipment either.
Like I said, OP had a sort of emergency and needed to know the SG right sway like a week ago, and the hydrometer was the fastest thing to be able to get and use. I really wish the pet stores would push a good starter book as hard as they push for the other crap they sell. There should be one in those reef ready complete tank set ups they sell and keep their flake fish food....LOL..in a perfect world.