Got a Hippo today. Wedged under rock
- Thread starter cam78
- Start date
srfisher17
Active Member
IMO & IME: you cannot get a fish that refuses a variety of foods to eat by just offering it something else. If this fish won't eat brine or mysis, its doubtful that he's ready to eat anything. Even though tangs are herbivores, they will almost always eat meaty foods before veggies and a Hippo is really feeds a lot on plankton in the wild. Of course you want to see your fish eat; but I think you need to look at more than just what you're feeding him. You did post SG ,but, what's the water temp? Ammonia/nitrite? Does he have a quiet place to hide? Its impossible to guess what could be wrong without this info. These can be hard fish to acclimate and your description of him sounds like something is wrong. Again, IMO & IME, he doesn't have a problem because he hasn't eaten yet; but may have a problem that is causing his not eating. (If that makes sense)
cam78
Active Member
I see some white spots on the black portion of his body but I am assuming it is more stress spotting than ich. The temp is 74 degrees and there is something for him to hide in but he chooses to sit in the corner rather than in the hiding spot. Even when I look from a distance he is not swimming, so its not like he gets scared when he sees me. He is in my basement and I can see him from upstairs. He is just not acting healthy IMO
tangs rule
Active Member
74 deg is too cool - needs to be up around 79-81
I would suspect the spots are ich, but that's just because I've never received a tang without it, and any fast respiration would coincide with a little ich.....get that temp up, about 1 deg/hr! till 79-81
I would suspect the spots are ich, but that's just because I've never received a tang without it, and any fast respiration would coincide with a little ich.....get that temp up, about 1 deg/hr! till 79-81
srfisher17
Active Member
If this is ich; only hypo or copper will cure it. Putting this fish into your DT before the ich is treated is a certain disaster and every day you wait to treat it decreases the odds of the tang surviving. I agree: the temp is too low, but a higher temp will not cure ich. I think "a little ich" is like "a little pregnant". Any ammonia? Its very common in QTs.
mkroher
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by srfisher17 http:///forum/thread/383931/got-a-hippo-from-this-site-today-wedged-under-rock/40#post_3362855
I think "a little ich" is like "a little pregnant".
best analogy.. ever
Originally Posted by srfisher17 http:///forum/thread/383931/got-a-hippo-from-this-site-today-wedged-under-rock/40#post_3362855
I think "a little ich" is like "a little pregnant".
best analogy.. ever
hawkfish203
Member
Def bring that temp up! That alone can be causing stress! He hasn't tried brine yet I don't think, it's like candy to them. At this point it's just getting him to eat anything. I'm just speaking from my own experience that when I got my hippo he wouldn't eat either and the first thing I got him to eat was brine soaked in garlic.
hawkfish203
Member
I would say copper just because the hypo could cause more stress when bringing the salinity back up especially if he still hasn't eaten. I would ask Beth for her opinion tho.
tangs rule
Active Member
+100 on copper -
There are 2 types of copper meds.....coppersafe by mardel and cupramine by seachem (i think)..each one requires a different test kit. . . coppersafe is chleated or buffered copper and there are test kits for this type...cupramine requires a test kit made by seachem to properly test....the dosages between the 2 are totally diferent so pick one method/med and get the right test kit and stick with that. Hypo will help too - but you can't treat a fish that dont eat, as ANY treatment for ich is gonna last 4-6 weeks....keep offering foods as previously mentioned - keep the Q tank temp around 80deg f. and start a copper trteatment ASAP.
I've had pretty good luck over the years with coppersafe, by mardel, and a test kit made by API......just my exp....
There are 2 types of copper meds.....coppersafe by mardel and cupramine by seachem (i think)..each one requires a different test kit. . . coppersafe is chleated or buffered copper and there are test kits for this type...cupramine requires a test kit made by seachem to properly test....the dosages between the 2 are totally diferent so pick one method/med and get the right test kit and stick with that. Hypo will help too - but you can't treat a fish that dont eat, as ANY treatment for ich is gonna last 4-6 weeks....keep offering foods as previously mentioned - keep the Q tank temp around 80deg f. and start a copper trteatment ASAP.
I've had pretty good luck over the years with coppersafe, by mardel, and a test kit made by API......just my exp....
sparty059
Active Member
Just know if you go the copper route your QT will no longer be able to be used as a tank outside of QT if you ever decide to change it into a display tank. Being that it's so small I dno't think you're going to make it a display and it'll be your designated QT... just wanted to point that out. Also, TR, you're like a tang-lord! haha, I will definately reference this thread when I eventually get a tang.
srfisher17
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparty059 http:///forum/thread/383931/got-a-hippo-from-this-site-today-wedged-under-rock/40#post_3363555
Just know if you go the copper route your QT will no longer be able to be used as a tank outside of QT if you ever decide to change it into a display tank. Being that it's so small I dno't think you're going to make it a display and it'll be your designated QT... just wanted to point that out. Also, TR, you're like a tang-lord! haha, I will definately reference this thread when I eventually get a tang.
Sure the tank can be used. You're not referring to that old myth that silicone sealant absorbs and releases copper are you? I though that myth died a long time ago.
Originally Posted by Sparty059 http:///forum/thread/383931/got-a-hippo-from-this-site-today-wedged-under-rock/40#post_3363555
Just know if you go the copper route your QT will no longer be able to be used as a tank outside of QT if you ever decide to change it into a display tank. Being that it's so small I dno't think you're going to make it a display and it'll be your designated QT... just wanted to point that out. Also, TR, you're like a tang-lord! haha, I will definately reference this thread when I eventually get a tang.
Sure the tank can be used. You're not referring to that old myth that silicone sealant absorbs and releases copper are you? I though that myth died a long time ago.
tangs rule
Active Member
Hey cam - how bout an update? is he doing better/worse/same?
cam78
Active Member
Sorry, been real frustrated with SWF. Thats a whole 'nother issue. Anyway I used Coppersafe yesterday and the spots are still around. As far as I can tell he still hasn't eaten. Everytime I go to the tank he hides. I do see him swimming around from a distance but he hides as soon as I walk up or I throw food in. Even the motion of the water when I put food in spooks him. UNREAL!!! His blue color actually looks a little better. I still see white spots though. I will do a water change tomorrow and add more coppersafe and see what happens with food. This fish so far sucks. He is totally timid and I am sure he will be like that forever. I will keep you posted though.
tangs rule
Active Member
He likely wont be like that forever...if he starts eating & survives Qtine......chances are 99.9% he was sick some with ich when he showed up, and this is the norm for ANY tang IME.....if you know the lifecycle of ich - he had it comming into your tank, and the ich probably has really screwed him up _ it will, I've seen some odd things tangs do with ich (though yours swimming vertically was a new one).
He will ( as all tangs do) likely one day recognize you as "feeder" and "beg" whenever you go by the tank. He will have signs of ich for the next 7-10 days for sure, and possibly as long as 20.....the copper meds must also be dosed properly during the whole Qtine process. So be sure to keep the level AT 2-3 ppm at all times....any lower and the ich will not be killed....don't exceed 4 or 5ppm, as this is fatal to the fish.
How is his belly looking ? - is it getting "sunken in or pinched"?
Edit: the 2-3ppm copper dose figure is for coppersafe (chleated) copper only........cupramine is ionic copper and doses totally different
He will ( as all tangs do) likely one day recognize you as "feeder" and "beg" whenever you go by the tank. He will have signs of ich for the next 7-10 days for sure, and possibly as long as 20.....the copper meds must also be dosed properly during the whole Qtine process. So be sure to keep the level AT 2-3 ppm at all times....any lower and the ich will not be killed....don't exceed 4 or 5ppm, as this is fatal to the fish.
How is his belly looking ? - is it getting "sunken in or pinched"?
Edit: the 2-3ppm copper dose figure is for coppersafe (chleated) copper only........cupramine is ionic copper and doses totally different