Have Pity on a Newbie To Plumbing....

puffer24/7

Active Member
Originally Posted by jcrim
Mim... mind if I call you mim... cool, anyway, a sump will give you a better place to hide your heater, pump and other crap. Once you get it set up, you'll be happier. The only things visible in the tank will be the overflow and the return piece.
BTW, when did swf.com become a singles bar???
very funny
 

marty

Member
Good, cool thread here. Looking at a similar project. Everything so far has been mentioning towards the sump/fuge. How about going back to the main tank? How do you balance the rate of flow between the two flows? For instance, if the overflow goes at 900gph and you have a pump that pushes at 900-950gph, how do you keep water in the sump? Hope this makes sense.
 

mimzy

Active Member
ok, so I can wedge/epoxy a divider into my sump/fuge that will serve as a baffle to keep sand/vegetation/inverts from getting sucked up into the return pipe.... Does it have to be glass/acrylic? Would a screen work also? am i correct in assuming that the top of the baffle should not come above the water line...so it can allow water to flow freely from the fuge compartment to the sump compartment?
and the pump.... this is a new thing... the pump is sumberged under the water in the sump portion of the sump/fuge? ....I'd have to find a pump small enough to fit in my devided 12 gallon then.... hhm....
and yet another question...if the return hose is connected to the overflow box....what takes it from the compartment in the OFB back into the dispay?
 
J

jcrim

Guest
Generally, if the equipment is in the right gph range, it will regulate itself. If not, a ball valve on the return pump will allow you to regulate the amount of flow.
 

mimzy

Active Member
so wait...im confused...the return hose is NOT connected to the overflow box? it goes right back into the tank itself?
 

space_geek

Active Member
Originally Posted by Mimzy
so wait...im confused...the return hose is NOT connected to the overflow box? it goes right back into the tank itself?
I believe so. Many people attach a little outlet thingy to it.
 

mimzy

Active Member
an outlet thingy....like.... a powerhead? or one of those things that looks like the attachement on a vacuum cleaner?
 
J

jcrim

Guest
Originally Posted by Mimzy
ok, so I can wedge/epoxy a divider into my sump/fuge that will serve as a baffle to keep sand/vegetation/inverts from getting sucked up into the return pipe.... Does it have to be glass/acrylic? Would a screen work also? am i correct in assuming that the top of the baffle should not come above the water line...so it can allow water to flow freely from the fuge compartment to the sump compartment?
and the pump.... this is a new thing... the pump is sumberged under the water in the sump portion of the sump/fuge? ....I'd have to find a pump small enough to fit in my devided 12 gallon then.... hhm....
and yet another question...if the return hose is connected to the overflow box....what takes it from the compartment in the OFB back into the dispay?
A screen will work as long as the material won't corrode in salt water... meaning no metal.
Yes, the top of the baffle should be lower than the water level to allow the water to flow into the return chamber.
You would have to make the pump portion large enough to fit a pump and whatever other equipment you want in there.
The return hose is attached only to the pump and goes directly back into the display with a spray piece (not sure the name)... or spray bar if you want. It does not go back into the overflow, the overflow is only to bring water out of the display into the filter.
 

mimzy

Active Member
oh, ok... now it actually sorta makes sense!!! YAY!! OH THANK YOU ALL!!!!
Marty brings up a good point too....didnt think of this... how does one controll the rate of turnover? is that determined by the kind of overflow box you get? or the gph rating of the return pump you use? ...or perhaps both?
 
J

jcrim

Guest
Originally Posted by jcrim
Generally, if the equipment is in the right gph range, it will regulate itself. If not, a ball valve on the return pump will allow you to regulate the amount of flow.
 

space_geek

Active Member
Originally Posted by Mimzy
oh, ok... now it actually sorta makes sense!!! YAY!! OH THANK YOU ALL!!!!
Marty brings up a good point too....didnt think of this... how does one controll the rate of turnover? is that determined by the kind of overflow box you get? or the gph rating of the return pump you use? ...or perhaps both?
YAY! Do I see a lightbulb that just lit up?
 

mimzy

Active Member
d'oh...
LoL, thanx Crimzy

so basically...all I need to buy is an overflow box kit, a water pump, some tubing, a spraybar or spray attachement, skimmer, something to serve as a baffle between fuge protion and sump portion of the 12 gallon.... and then I'm all set?
Do overflow kits usually come with all the appropriate hoses and connectors? I hear about check valves and ball valves and whatnot... where do these things come in?
 

dea_mt

Member
i don't really see where a checkvalve would come into place. that is just a valve that lets water only flow in one direction. valves are placed strategically for maintenance. you'll probably want to put a double valved union on both your supply and your return.
 
J

jcrim

Guest
Originally Posted by Mimzy
d'oh...
LoL, thanx Crimzy

so basically...all I need to buy is an overflow box kit, a water pump, some tubing, a spraybar or spray attachement, skimmer, something to serve as a baffle between fuge protion and sump portion of the 12 gallon.... and then I'm all set?
Do overflow kits usually come with all the appropriate hoses and connectors? I hear about check valves and ball valves and whatnot... where do these things come in?
Generally the overflow will come with all of the hoses and connections. But they will not come with a ball valve. This is simply a piece connected to the tube that allows you to turn the valve and block some of the water. It can also be completely shut to block all of the water. It's not absolutely necessary but will help if you ever need it.
Everything else you said is right about what you need. Just don't buy the tubing until you get your pump and spray attachment... and get the tubing at a hardware store... much cheaper than the lfs.
Hey mimzy... like to swimzy??? :jumping: (I can't stop!)
 

mimzy

Active Member
hhhm...ok thanx for the pics Squidd, this is really helpful.... am i seeing correctly - are there two u-tubes in your overflow? And what is that PVC piece in there...is that the "Stand pipe" that's in ur diagram?
 

mimzy

Active Member
WOW this thread is moving fast... I really cant thank you enough for all your help everyone!!! :jumping:
Crimzy, yes, Mimzy, on occasion, DOES like to swimzy. But not in the ocean, for it is full of rusty metal fishooks that like to impale her through her foot.
Aaaaaanyhow...
So ok.... an overflow kit... I am now going shopping. On what connection would u suggest using a ball valve? I was thinking on the return hose as it exits the sump/fuge, and on the overflow right where the supply connects?
 
J

jcrim

Guest
Originally Posted by Mimzy
I was thinking on the return hose as it exits the sump/fuge, and on the overflow right where the supply connects?
I'd recommend one on the return tube but not under the overflow. I don't think you can regulate the flow from your overflow because it would just back up into the overflow box and flood.
 
Top