Help W/ Ick!!!!!!

sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by 1journeyman
http:///forum/post/2463539
I agree the bacteria will be fine, but all of the tiny inverts in the sand will die. Even if it is bagged sand, the live rock should have begun to seed the sand.
I agree the ich needs to be dealt with, but like I said hypoing a display tank is always a last resort in my opinion.
Nah, hypoing the display, unless it is a reef, is the best choice. You are sure that the ich is gone rather than the waiting game of maybe it is gone and maybe it isn't. Sand is easy to re-seed. A tank full of ich can be a big pain. This way it is a clean slate and the person can just quarantine all new purchases to be sure of an ich free tank.
 
johnnyd

johnnyd

Member
i just set up a 10g QT tank. the salitny will be at 1.009. how long should this fish be in there. im buying heater in the morning and will put the coral beauty in it. the sfe doesnt have ick right now so do i have to move it because it will be a pain. how long do i hypo my fish for? also do i have to move my peppermint shrimp to the QT?
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by 1journeyman
http:///forum/post/2463544
You're proposing the murder of millions of little sand creatures.... that's just sad

Tis sad indeed.
It is sad, but as apposed to fish dieing, well it is a trade off. The fish cannot go into an uncycled tank. It takes a month to cycle the tank and fish with disease cannot wait that long. MANY people have tried just throwing a qt together, trust me my friend, it does not work out. The tank spikes with ill fish in it and they tend to not make it. I am all about the fish and other life forms in the tank, but I do make the lives of the fish a priority over microorganisms in the sand.
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by johnnyd
http:///forum/post/2463547
i just set up a 10g QT tank. the salitny will be at 1.009. how long should this fish be in there. im buying heater in the morning and will put the coral beauty in it. the sfe doesnt have ick right now so do i have to move it because it will be a pain. how long do i hypo my fish for? also do i have to move my peppermint shrimp to the QT?
All of your fish have been exposed to ich and they all need to be treated.
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by tcmang
http:///forum/post/2463555
Please explain Hypo?
Hyposalinity is the process of bringing the specific gravity of the water down to 1.009 to treat for parasites. Please look at Beth's Common Treatments FAQ. It is the first post on the disease and treatment board. She has info about ich, it's life cycle, a qt, how to set one up, hyposalinity, formalin baths, and much more. Please read her FAQ and ask us any and all questions that you may have
 
m0nk

m0nk

Active Member
Originally Posted by johnnyd
http:///forum/post/2463547
i just set up a 10g QT tank. the salitny will be at 1.009. how long should this fish be in there. im buying heater in the morning and will put the coral beauty in it. the sfe doesnt have ick right now so do i have to move it because it will be a pain. how long do i hypo my fish for? also do i have to move my peppermint shrimp to the QT?
The fish need to be in the tank before dropping it to 1.009, and it needs to be cycled. There are quick ways to cycle a tank, most are pointed out in the thread I posted at the beginning. Also, yes, you will need to move the SFE in as well to do hypo on both since it was exposed, and the DT will need to remain free of fish for 6 weeks.
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by m0nk
http:///forum/post/2463588
The fish need to be in the tank before dropping it to 1.009, and it needs to be cycled. There are quick ways to cycle a tank, most are pointed out in the thread I posted at the beginning. Also, yes, you will need to move the SFE in as well to do hypo on both since it was exposed, and the DT will need to remain free of fish for 6 weeks.
Wow, I didn't even catch that. Yes the fish need to be in the tank before you lower the SG.
 
johnnyd

johnnyd

Member
i bought ick-attack, its reef safe etc. people at ***** said it worked in there tanks because they have a bad ick breakout. i went to another forum where some people have used it and said it worked, but it causes a major algae bloom. so im gonna give it a try and see if it works i will let you know. has any 1 used this product and had success?
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by johnnyd
http:///forum/post/2464780
i bought ick-attack, its reef safe etc. people at ***** said it worked in there tanks because they have a bad ick breakout. i went to another forum where some people have used it and said it worked, but it causes a major algae bloom. so im gonna give it a try and see if it works i will let you know. has any 1 used this product and had success?
It isn't going to work. I don't expect you to take my word for it. Please read the Common Treatments FAQ, Post number 13. There are various "reef safe" meds listed, along with personal experience with each. When it comes down to it, there are only two methods to treat ich, They are copper and hyposalinity. Neither can be done with inverts and copper cannot be done in a display.
 
johnnyd

johnnyd

Member
Originally Posted by sepulatian
http:///forum/post/2464787
It isn't going to work. I don't expect you to take my word for it. Please read the Common Treatments FAQ, Post number 13. There are various "reef safe" meds listed, along with personal experience with each. When it comes down to it, there are only two methods to treat ich, They are copper and hyposalinity. Neither can be done with inverts and copper cannot be done in a display.
thanks for the help bro! i started dosing withe the ick attack i will post some results. the ick isnt as bad as yeasterday, prob because the tomas fell off to reproduce! will se what happends. i hope the fish doesnt>>>>>
 
1journeyman

1journeyman

Active Member
Ok, upon further review, the webpage of the maker of Ich-Attack makes some pretty amazing claims.
They do not, however, say it is reef safe. They say it is safe with inverts such as shrimp, crabs, anemones but don't mention other corals.
If you decide to use it, good luck. Hope it works for ya, but I suggest reading and deciding for yourself.
 
johnnyd

johnnyd

Member
its says its reef safe on the bottle. so i hope this is true. so far so good. fish is eating algae off live rock and the are only a few white spots now. hopefully this stuff will work.
 
m0nk

m0nk

Active Member
Originally Posted by johnnyd
http:///forum/post/2465782
its says its reef safe on the bottle. so i hope this is true. so far so good. fish is eating algae off live rock and the are only a few white spots now. hopefully this stuff will work.
As sepulation noted earlier, the "reef safe" products don't work. It may help keep the ich outbreak in check for a short time, but it will come back again and again. That's due to the life cycle of the parasite. The best way to get rid of it for good is to follow the hypo route outlined in that thread.
 
johnnyd

johnnyd

Member
Originally Posted by m0nk
http:///forum/post/2465915
As sepulation noted earlier, the "reef safe" products don't work. It may help keep the ich outbreak in check for a short time, but it will come back again and again. That's due to the life cycle of the parasite. The best way to get rid of it for good is to follow the hypo route outlined in that thread.
i dont want to mess with the hypo. so im gonna use seachem's cupramine and use there copper test kit in my QT. i will treat the SFE and coral beauty as these are the only fish in the tank.
 
renogaw

renogaw

Active Member
just make sure you keep the copper levels at the right dose, otherwise you're stressing your fish out for no reason.
hypo really wasn't that difficult to deal with, and it doesn't kill the usablitiy of the tank later. don't ever use that tank for qt'ing corals or inverts, or even put live rock in there into your display tank. consider whatever you put in that tank contaminated with copper, including nets and droppers that you use to take water out for your tests.
 
johnnyd

johnnyd

Member
Originally Posted by renogaw
http:///forum/post/2466324
just make sure you keep the copper levels at the right dose, otherwise you're stressing your fish out for no reason.
hypo really wasn't that difficult to deal with, and it doesn't kill the usablitiy of the tank later. don't ever use that tank for qt'ing corals or inverts, or even put live rock in there into your display tank. consider whatever you put in that tank contaminated with copper, including nets and droppers that you use to take water out for your tests.
nets and droppers too? cant you just rinse them off? and after several water changes and with carbon in the filter the copper should be gone after time in the QT right?
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by johnnyd
http:///forum/post/2466858
nets and droppers too? cant you just rinse them off? and after several water changes and with carbon in the filter the copper should be gone after time in the QT right?
The copper soaks into the silicone of the qt and leaches back out over time. It will not be suitable for quarantining inverts and corals. I would not use the other utensils in the display again after having them in the copper.
 
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