Help w/ New Aquarium Choice

msb256

Member
This is my first post here and I'm looking for some advice on an aquarium purchase. A few years ago I had 29G saltwater tank. I had clownfish, damsels, a couple tangs, a flame angel - some didn't make it and toward the end it was just the clownfish. That was in college. Now I'm married with a child and I really think my one year old would enjoy a nice aquarium with beautiful fish and it would be a fun hobby for me.
So, I'd like to go for a 55 or 75 gallon saltwater setup. My 29G was basically fish only w/ live rock. But, I've found two tanks online that I'm interested in and I'd like to know which one you guys think is the better buy.
I never sprung for the more expensive lighting to support corals in the past, but I think both of these might come with better than basic lighting. I'd like to know what the lighting that comes with each will support (although I'll probably stick to FO w/ LR) and how much it's going to cost me to replace the bulbs. Also, the 55 has a wet/dry filter - is that what is under the stand? The 75 has s 30 gallon sump. What is the difference between the two? I feel like the 75 might be the better buy as it comes with quite a bit of stuff, but the 55 might be great too and it's 125 dollars cheaper. Of course, I'd make an offer lower than listed price.
Any help and advice would be appreciated. I'm not exactly sure what the benefit of the sump is and how much better that is than the 55G setup. Thanks in advance for any advice!
75G: http://bham.craigslist.org/for/3052308549.html
55G: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Salt-Water-Aquarium-/230800016155?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bcc0c31b#ht_500wt_1201
 

acrylic51

Active Member
I'll chime in briefly.....The 75 is a better deal IMHO.......Might be a bit more expensive, but definitely better lighting than the 55 comes with.....Besides I'd don't like how the guy says the stand needs redone due to salt staining......Sounds like he might have been a bit careless and I question the stand......The 75 is a bit easier IMO as far as laying out your rock work, the 55 is limiting due to how narrow the tank is.
Honestly I would offer the person $350 cash......used equipment doesn't really retain it's value IMHO......A used tank I'd give you tops $1 per gallon......
 

msb256

Member
Well, we were going to go after the 75 but the guy said he had two guys in a bidding war and they were up to $500. That's out of my league so were going to see the 55 in a bit. What should I look for?
So, can I work with the 55? Is the wet dry filter under the stand sufficient filtration? My 29 had under gravel filter and a hang on filter which I know is freshwater simple stuff.
I'd like to get a power head. That's just for water flow right? Is there a good value power head someone can recommend?
Do I want live sand or is there another sand I can get? How much live sand do I need for a 55?
Thanks in advance again. I look forward to participating here as I build my second saltwater setup.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
The 55 is workable.......What's all included with the 55......$500.00 for the 75 setup is a bit ridiculous IMO.....
 

msb256

Member
I bought the 55! We worked on touching up the stand and canopy last night. Now it has to dry completely so I can bring it inside.
Where would be the best place to ask questions and track my progress on this build? I'd like to add pictures, show you guys the equipment, and ask questions.
Tonight I'd like to get the water and live sand put in. What's the best process? If I put sand in first, fresh water would kill the live bacteria right? So I was thinking I'd fill up the tank, add the water conditioner, add the salt, get the salinity right. Then add the sand which I assume will be a big cloud, let it settle, then add the chemical that cycles the tank?
 

sweatervest13

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by MSB256 http:///t/391877/help-w-new-aquarium-choice#post_3477371
I bought the 55! We worked on touching up the stand and canopy last night. Now it has to dry completely so I can bring it inside.
Where would be the best place to ask questions and track my progress on this build? I'd like to add pictures, show you guys the equipment, and ask questions.
Tonight I'd like to get the water and live sand put in. What's the best process? If I put sand in first, fresh water would kill the live bacteria right? So I was thinking I'd fill up the tank, add the water conditioner, add the salt, get the salinity right. Then add the sand which I assume will be a big cloud, let it settle, then add the chemical that cycles the tank?
Hi and Welcome!!!
Congrats on the new 55g!! You could start a build thread right here or on the new hobbyists section. The New Hobbyists section might get a little more views.
What kind of water are you using to fill the tank? I would recommend using RO/DI water. You can buy it from a LFS or a Walmart type store. Using tap can/will cause problems down the line (even if you use conditioners).
Good luck with the set up, and welcome back to the addiction!!
 

msb256

Member
Ok. Just called LFS and they do not sell RO water. Is a walmart type place my best option? If so, how the world do I lug 55 gallons of water? Seems like containers would cost as much as the water itself.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I am a little unorthodox, but i have started almost every tank 55g or larger with dechlorinated tap water and then used ro/di top it off. I then use macroalgaes or an algae scrubber over the next month or so to rid the tank of excess nitrate and phosphate from the tap water while the tank cycles. By the time you are able to put in fish, you have an active live algae scrubber screen. :)
 

msb256

Member
You threw me for a loop Snake. I was prepare to make three trips to Walmart with 18 or so one gallon jugs. Most of what I read says avoid tap water like the plague but man it would be so much easier.
What should I do?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Tap water actually has a lot of minerals in it that might be useful. It depends on how much copper is in the tap water. Most of the time you can avoid excessive amounts of copper by letting the water run for 10 to 15 minutes before putting some water in your tank. Its best to avoid tap water for top offs of course.
You absolutly have to use macroalgaes with strong lighting in your tank or in your fuge initially to reduce nitrate and phosphate. Either that or build an ats or a uas. A protein skimmer or a phosban reactor wouldnt hurt upon start up either. Your tank will be a little green for a month or so but it will all level out and go away.
Doing small 20% water changes a week while your tank cycles will keep ammonia low and live stuff on your live rock alive. It will also help decrease nitrates and phosphates.
Anyways, my advice is at most worth $0.02.
 

msb256

Member
Alright. I made the trip to walmart for RO water, it's late, and I'm ready for bed. I have to work tomorrow but I'm one of those stubborn types who won't go to bed until I get his working.
I cannot get the siphon started. I've got water on both sides of the u, the overflow and the return box, I suck and all I get is saltwater in my mouth. It looks like it wants to start but doesn't. Is there a rookie mistake I'm making?
 

msb256

Member
Not going to lie, I feel somewhat overwhelmed. I'm having a hard time grasping the full concept of the wet dry, such as if the power goes out and the return pump stops working, how do you keep the sump from overflowing? Well, it doesn't matter right now because I can't get the siphon started. I can taste saltwater though so that's ok I guess...
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Mmm...theres nothing better than a mouthful of bacteria laden saltwater lol. Lots of folks like to use an aqua lifter pump to suck the air out of the tube to prime the overflow. Best $15 you'll ever spend. What size is the overflow and return pump?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
You gotta put the airline tube at the very top of the u-tube. Then, take a cup of saltwater and fill the back of it up while you suck the air out of thr tube. That airline tube has got to be at the very top. No way around it. Once you get the air siphoned out, gently remove the airline tubing without breaking the siphon.
 

msb256

Member
Thanks guys, I did get the siphon going, but I couldn't get the whole wet/dry system to work properly. The guy I bought it from has the run of the mill wet/dry system that I seem to see a lot. The clear box with the round foam tube, one pipeline going from the box to the sump/bio balls under the stand, and a pump to bring it back into the DT. However, he didn't like the overflow box and pipeline that came with it, so he put a different one on there. Not sure the brand, but it's black has more of a flat U pipe, and it has two PVC pipes coming out of the box that join together into the one pipe on the sump. I cannot figure this out and I was up until about 3 AM. So one pipe in the part that hangs on the back of the tank is just a clear pipe. I don't think the water is suppose to go above that. The other pipe has this black lid on it and something that looks like a straw coming out of it. I think that's how you adjust the water level. The guy seems to have made the PVC pipe and all that himself and it has a shut off valve. I don't know what the advantage is of the dual pipes coming out of the part on the back or what the clear pipe and the one with the black lid are suppose to do. I couldn't figure that out.
So, can I go back to the original box with one pipe, or can I just nix the wet/dry all together? I'm reading a lot of stuff saying the best filter for a salt water aquarium is live sand and live rock. Maybe a fuge. I have live sand, a talk full of salt water, a heater, and one power head right now. If I get rid of the wet dry all together I was thinking of getting another power head for the other side of the tank and a HOB filter to hold me over until I can set up a refugium.
So, what should I do? Figure out the wet/dry system or just go with live sand, live rock, and HOB filter until I can get a refugium setup? Isn't the refugium setup similar to the wet dry anyway? I could probably use the wet dry over flow box/siphon to get the water down to the refugium and the same pump to get it back up into the DT. All I'd need is a 10 gallon aquarium and whatever algae I need to replace the wet/dry box right?
Apologies for typing a novel. This is my second aquarium and I'm trying to do it right this time. I made the Walmart trip and used mostly RO water. It was at 8 TDS but that's better than triple digits right? I also had to use 2 gallons of dechlorinated tap water because I ran out. So 2 out of the 55 some odd gallons were dechlorinated tap.
I'd appreciate any advice and at some point I'll post pictures and move this to a more appropriate place to track the progress of this build. THANKS!!!
 

msb256

Member
I left off skimmer. I've read that the best way to go is live sand, live rock, and skimmer... Plus maybe the fuge.
Skimmer means protein skimmer right?
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Sounds like he ditched that box and got him a CPR overflow box. The clear piece of tube sticking out of the bulkhead on the back of the box is to help adjust the air flow. By sliding it up or down you should be able to find the sweet spot that helps make it quieter by draining more efficiently. Can you post a picture of this box? If it has 2 drains on the back of it then its probably way over sized for your system and if thats the case it's not going to function the way it should because the pump isnt large enough for that box.
 

msb256

Member
I'll try to get some pictures up tonight. But I guess I'd still pose the question, do I really need the wet/dry? What if I replace the bio ball set up with a 10 gallon tank to be used as a refugium? How about just live rock, live sand, and HOB until I can afford a skimmer?
 
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