hermitkrab
Member
I want to get a 150 watt double-ended MH. My dad says it will cost to much to run 12hrs. a day. How much would it cost to run a 150 watt double-ended MH for 12hrs. a day for a whole year? Thanks.
How much electricity does MH take?
- Thread starter hermitkrab
- Start date
hermitkrab
Member
If my mind works right that should be anywhere from $73 to somewhere around $91 a year. That isn't a lot is it?
jamiehag
Member
metal halides do not need to run 12 hours a day they reprsent the sun at its full brightness which is only a few hours of the day. You should suplement them with
Atinic 03 power compacts or VHO's for more the majority of the lighting period. 6hrs halids 10 hours power compacts is my light schedual on my 210 reef with no problems and coral growth. This gives you a dawn and dusk and if you have them a lunar period for the rest of the day. You want to avoid the full bright light then no light.
Atinic 03 power compacts or VHO's for more the majority of the lighting period. 6hrs halids 10 hours power compacts is my light schedual on my 210 reef with no problems and coral growth. This gives you a dawn and dusk and if you have them a lunar period for the rest of the day. You want to avoid the full bright light then no light.
hermitkrab
Member
Well the money part is also an issue so I don't think a $250 dollar Mh and then a VHO light is a solution. But I could just use the MH and then use my current light for a cool down period between the Mh and night. Would that work?
jamiehag
Member
Originally Posted by HermitKrab
Well the money part is also an issue so I don't think a $250 dollar Mh and then a VHO light is a solution. But I could just use the MH and then use my current light for a cool down period between the Mh and night. Would that work?
Yes as long as you are using the correct temp bulbs i.e. 10,000K halide with atinic 03 VHO or 20,000k halide if you are using it with a regular floresent light.
Well the money part is also an issue so I don't think a $250 dollar Mh and then a VHO light is a solution. But I could just use the MH and then use my current light for a cool down period between the Mh and night. Would that work?
Yes as long as you are using the correct temp bulbs i.e. 10,000K halide with atinic 03 VHO or 20,000k halide if you are using it with a regular floresent light.
hermitkrab
Member
Good. Because I want a 20000K Mh and I have a flourescent.
mudplayerx
Active Member
I run my 300 watts of 10k mh for 8 hours a day... 4pm until midnight (not important). I don't use any supplemental lighting because it is unecessary with 10k bulbs. 
I have seen no real impact on my electricity bill.
I have seen no real impact on my electricity bill.
zman1
Active Member
Find out what your kilowatt hour rate is, there are usually two. The first 750 KWh at .0xxx and anything over 750 KWh at .0xxx. This is an example may not be 750 KWh. Look at you dad's bill, it will show the rate. If not, you may have to do some division, but they will list them separate.
150 Watts for the bulb and the ballast is inefficient and the result of this is heat. It's probably closer to 170 Watt being used. (170 is on the high end) to be exact look at the ballast specs.
Take 170 x 12 hours = 2040 or 2KWh Daily
2040 x 365 =744600 or 744.6 KWh Yearly
744.6 * Rate = Yearly cost
example 744.6 x .06 = $44.67 yearly or 12 cents a day
My average is 13 cents per KWh = $96.8 or .26 cents a day.
150 Watts for the bulb and the ballast is inefficient and the result of this is heat. It's probably closer to 170 Watt being used. (170 is on the high end) to be exact look at the ballast specs.
Take 170 x 12 hours = 2040 or 2KWh Daily
2040 x 365 =744600 or 744.6 KWh Yearly
744.6 * Rate = Yearly cost
example 744.6 x .06 = $44.67 yearly or 12 cents a day
My average is 13 cents per KWh = $96.8 or .26 cents a day.
jamiehag
Member
Originally Posted by mudplayerx
I run my 300 watts of 10k mh for 8 hours a day... 4pm until midnight (not important). I don't use any supplemental lighting because it is unecessary with 10k bulbs. I have seen no real impact on my electricity bill.
That's not the correct spectrum for coral. Corals need the atinic or blue color that is found in the deeper waters in the ocean 10,000K by itself really makes your tank look yellow and you would't see as vibrant of colors in your corals let along they won't be as healty. Don't beleive me do some reaserch on it. And supplemental light is nesseary for 10k bulbs and is not with 20k bulbs.
I run my 300 watts of 10k mh for 8 hours a day... 4pm until midnight (not important). I don't use any supplemental lighting because it is unecessary with 10k bulbs.
I have seen no real impact on my electricity bill.That's not the correct spectrum for coral. Corals need the atinic or blue color that is found in the deeper waters in the ocean 10,000K by itself really makes your tank look yellow and you would't see as vibrant of colors in your corals let along they won't be as healty. Don't beleive me do some reaserch on it. And supplemental light is nesseary for 10k bulbs and is not with 20k bulbs.
bang guy
Moderator
Originally Posted by jamiehag
That's not the correct spectrum for coral.
10,000K is a color, not a spectrum. I have yet to find a spectrum or color that corals will not adjust to fairly rapidly. What do you base your statement on?
You might be interested to know that a 6500K Iwasaki Mercury Vapor emits more blue light than an Radium 20,000K bulb.
Originally Posted by jamiehag
Don't beleive me do some reaserch on it. And supplemental light is nesseary for 10k bulbs and is not with 20k bulbs.
I have done the research, extensive research. My conclusion is the exact opposite of yours. 20,000K bulbs may require supplementation in some circumstances because they put out so little PAR.
The comment about yellow color may or may not be true depending on the bulb but that's a personal aesthetic preference, not a requirement.
That's not the correct spectrum for coral.
10,000K is a color, not a spectrum. I have yet to find a spectrum or color that corals will not adjust to fairly rapidly. What do you base your statement on?
You might be interested to know that a 6500K Iwasaki Mercury Vapor emits more blue light than an Radium 20,000K bulb.
Originally Posted by jamiehag
Don't beleive me do some reaserch on it. And supplemental light is nesseary for 10k bulbs and is not with 20k bulbs.
I have done the research, extensive research. My conclusion is the exact opposite of yours. 20,000K bulbs may require supplementation in some circumstances because they put out so little PAR.
The comment about yellow color may or may not be true depending on the bulb but that's a personal aesthetic preference, not a requirement.
mudplayerx
Active Member
Originally Posted by jamiehag
That's not the correct spectrum for coral. Corals need the atinic or blue color that is found in the deeper waters in the ocean 10,000K by itself really makes your tank look yellow and you would't see as vibrant of colors in your corals let along they won't be as healty. Don't beleive me do some reaserch on it. And supplemental light is nesseary for 10k bulbs and is not with 20k bulbs.
Corals grow better under 10k than 20k bulbs. I think you got it backwards
That's not the correct spectrum for coral. Corals need the atinic or blue color that is found in the deeper waters in the ocean 10,000K by itself really makes your tank look yellow and you would't see as vibrant of colors in your corals let along they won't be as healty. Don't beleive me do some reaserch on it. And supplemental light is nesseary for 10k bulbs and is not with 20k bulbs.
Corals grow better under 10k than 20k bulbs. I think you got it backwards
hot883
Active Member
Yeah, the learning curve just got way bent outa shape. (sits here with chin in hand) :thinking: I was reading along, writing numbers down then screeeeeech.... so as a newb, I just want to know since I have regular lights how do I turn them on and off? I have been turning then on at around 7am and off at 8pm. 55 gal. 2 sets of normal cheapo lights that came with tank. New lights are in near future. I am looking at VHO or PC 6x55watt
hot883
Active Member
I'm pretty consistant on my times. I was thinking from reading on here that going from dark to lights on (they feel like recruits) Ha! that I was doing something wrong. Now mind ya, it's not totally dark in my house at those times and I get to see them in their bedrooms so to speak, (where they hang out at night) and I turn one side on at a time. Am I ok?
jamiehag
Member
Originally Posted by Bang Guy
10,000K is a color, not a spectrum. I have yet to find a spectrum or color that corals will not adjust to fairly rapidly. What do you base your statement on?
You might be interested to know that a 6500K Iwasaki Mercury Vapor emits more blue light than an Radium 20,000K bulb.
I have done the research, extensive research. My conclusion is the exact opposite of yours. 20,000K bulbs may require supplementation in some circumstances because they put out so little PAR.
The comment about yellow color may or may not be true depending on the bulb but that's a personal aesthetic preference, not a requirement.
Bang guy i don't want to get into a big debate here on what to use or do, but if anyone is looking for lighing info they can check out www.aquarium-lighting-guide.com. Here is what they have to say about MH lighting.
Do I need to supplement my metal halide lighting with actinics?
Although it has been proven that light in the blue end of the spectrum is beneficial to corals, the decision for actinics usually comes down to aesthetics. bulbs in the 5500K - 6500K range are considered to be on the yellow side, and should be supplemented with actinics. 10,000K bulbs can stand alone but most aquarists would suggest using actinic supplemental lighting. Any bulb above 10,000K can most likely stand alone without needing the use of actinics.
Also I would like to point out that Drs foster and smith just opend their new aqua culture facility in Rhinelander WI and I was up there for the grand opening for tours and a frag swap. All they use on their tanks is 400watt 20,0000K HQI bulbs on the 10,000+ gallon system they have setup with thousands of coral frags.
10,000K is a color, not a spectrum. I have yet to find a spectrum or color that corals will not adjust to fairly rapidly. What do you base your statement on?
You might be interested to know that a 6500K Iwasaki Mercury Vapor emits more blue light than an Radium 20,000K bulb.
I have done the research, extensive research. My conclusion is the exact opposite of yours. 20,000K bulbs may require supplementation in some circumstances because they put out so little PAR.
The comment about yellow color may or may not be true depending on the bulb but that's a personal aesthetic preference, not a requirement.
Bang guy i don't want to get into a big debate here on what to use or do, but if anyone is looking for lighing info they can check out www.aquarium-lighting-guide.com. Here is what they have to say about MH lighting.
Do I need to supplement my metal halide lighting with actinics?
Although it has been proven that light in the blue end of the spectrum is beneficial to corals, the decision for actinics usually comes down to aesthetics. bulbs in the 5500K - 6500K range are considered to be on the yellow side, and should be supplemented with actinics. 10,000K bulbs can stand alone but most aquarists would suggest using actinic supplemental lighting. Any bulb above 10,000K can most likely stand alone without needing the use of actinics.
Also I would like to point out that Drs foster and smith just opend their new aqua culture facility in Rhinelander WI and I was up there for the grand opening for tours and a frag swap. All they use on their tanks is 400watt 20,0000K HQI bulbs on the 10,000+ gallon system they have setup with thousands of coral frags.