Ich driving me mad please help

canman

canman

Member
Let me give you some background on my tank. It is a 125 that has been up for about 3 years. I got ich for the 1st time about 6 months ago. I did hypo just like the thread on beths link says. The ich stayed goone for about 3 months and it came back. So I was frustrated so I did hypo for a 2nd time this time leaving my tank in hypo for about 75 days just to make sure there is no more ich. I started bringing my salinity back up a couple of days ago and I see ich all over my black trigger. I don't know what to do I'm fixing to go back to freshwater where you just remove the carbon and but the blue stuff in and it gets it everytime. While my tank was in hypo all the ich was goone and it is like it just comes out of no where when my salintiy is back normal. Please any opinions welcome.
 
sac10918

sac10918

Member
Are you certain your getting your salinity all the way down to 1.009? Do you use a refractometer or a hydrometer to measure?
 
barracuda1

barracuda1

Member
personally, I wouldn't keep doing Hypo seeing how it hasn't worked, I recommend a reef/organism safe medication you can apply to the whole tank that only targets the ick protozan itself (if you want the product names I will list them)
 
U

usirchchris

Guest
My suggestion would be to pull the fish, so that your tank is fallow for 6-8 weeks. Put the fish in a seperate tank and use Cupramine...I much prefer copper to hypo. I have not been successful with hypo..not saying it does not work, but am saying I must do something incorrectly while doing it, and that something I cannot figure out. With copper all you have to do is get the correct level, hold it for three weeks and you are done. Testing is the only difficult part, and that only takes a couple minutes of your time. I do not know of a single reef safe med that is in any way shape or form consistent in eradicating ich. For every one person that says they have success with them, you will have 100 posts that state they are completely ineffective.
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
If hypo has not worked then cupramine is the way to go. I have a few questions first though. Were the fish in the DT or QT when they were treated? Did you add any new fish, rocks, coral, or inverts without quarantine?
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by Barracuda1
http:///forum/post/2783928
personally, I wouldn't keep doing Hypo seeing how it hasn't worked, I recommend a reef/organism safe medication you can apply to the whole tank that only targets the ick protozan itself (if you want the product names I will list them)
I have said it numerous times, and I will say it again. There is NO product that can target ich only. There are "reef safe" meds that help to control ich. They do not kill ich. You cannot target one invertebrate yet let other's live. Please read Beth's Common Treatment FAQ for an understanding of ich and it's life cycle.
 
barracuda1

barracuda1

Member
Hey, like I said, a suggestion, it's a personal choice, and chect these products sites if you don't get what I am refering to
Reef Safe Kick-Ich is a water treatment for the control of ich (a.k.a. "whitespot disease") in marine and freshwater aquaria. It has been scientifically formulated to eliminate the free swimming, infectious stage of the ich life cycle while being safe for all freshwater and marine aquaria. Kick-Ich has a long shelf life at room temperature and is supplied in easy to use, self-dosing bottles. Safe for all fish, corals, invertebrates and macro algae, as well as the facultative anaerobes and nitrifying bacteria essential to biologic filtration. Click here for directions for use.
NO-ICH by Fish-Vet has solved these problems with a treatment that:
Treats the water and eliminates parasites such as the “white spot” protozoan, as well as parasitic copepods, while not affecting any of your beautiful Corals, Anemones, Plants or other Invertebrates.
Biodegrades after some 4-5 days, leaving no harmful residue.
Does not harm Fish, Invertebrates, or nitrifying bacteria
No test kit is necessary during treatment.
And just stuff like this but not Kordon stuff, and these are copy-paste from thier websites, so if it says "click here" thats why
 
canman

canman

Member
decided to go back freshwater the saltwater ich has officially doone me in. The problem is I don't have a qt and I put all my live rock in a big tupperware container and did hypo on the dt which the beth thread said that was ok. I know I did everything right by the book for the hypo but it was not effective for me. I would definately agree to have a qt. The problem is my dt is a big tank and I don't have the room to have a qt big enough to hold all these fish. Maybe again in the future when i have more space I will try it again. Lesson learned: have a qt
 
lroberts

lroberts

Member
Originally Posted by sepulatian
http:///forum/post/2784045
I have said it numerous times, and I will say it again. There is NO product that can target ich only. There are "reef safe" meds that help to control ich. They do not kill ich. You cannot target one invertebrate yet let other's live. Please read Beth's Common Treatment FAQ for an understanding of ich and it's life cycle.
Some of these old posts drive me crazy as there are wayyyy out dated.
No-Ich is being used more and more. Our local pet stores are even no longer stocking things like Kick Ich and all that other stuff to replace it with No-Ich.
This product is getting a rather good rep and seems to be working well when used correctly.
The one thing that drives me nuts about this hobby is the old timers.
Don't get me wrong knowledge is great to pass down however some of these people get so stuck on the old ways of doing things that they refuse to look at new advances to better treat issues and rub them off as not working when in fact some do work and work well.
 
U

usirchchris

Guest
Originally Posted by LRoberts
http:///forum/post/3042198
Some of these old posts drive me crazy as there are wayyyy out dated.
No-Ich is being used more and more. Our local pet stores are even no longer stocking things like Kick Ich and all that other stuff to replace it with No-Ich.
This product is getting a rather good rep and seems to be working well when used correctly.
The one thing that drives me nuts about this hobby is the old timers.
Don't get me wrong knowledge is great to pass down however some of these people get so stuck on the old ways of doing things that they refuse to look at new advances to better treat issues and rub them off as not working when in fact some do work and work well.
I am all about easier and new, but No Ich or any reef safe ich med simply do not make logical sense. How can a med kill one kind of invert but not kill any of the others? What are you basing your claim of success on? Update away I am all for it
.
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by LRoberts
http:///forum/post/3042198
Some of these old posts drive me crazy as there are wayyyy out dated.
No-Ich is being used more and more. Our local pet stores are even no longer stocking things like Kick Ich and all that other stuff to replace it with No-Ich.
This product is getting a rather good rep and seems to be working well when used correctly.
The one thing that drives me nuts about this hobby is the old timers.
Don't get me wrong knowledge is great to pass down however some of these people get so stuck on the old ways of doing things that they refuse to look at new advances to better treat issues and rub them off as not working when in fact some do work and work well.
Show me proof other than what the manufacturer says that this product can do.
I would absolutely like nothing more than to find the "miracle cure". Please explain to me how ich, the invert that can survive more than any other invert, can be killed by a product that will not kill anything else in a reef tank.
The problem with "Old Timers", BTW I am 29, is that we have seen so many of these products come and go. Hyposalinity and copper work. Take a look at the ich life cycle. You will figure out why hyposalinity and copper treatments work and "reef safe" meds do not.
You are not the first, and will not be the last, to come along with a product that you are "certain" works.
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
copy of my post in another thread
I would be interested if anyone can find out how No Ick kills the parasite in its free-swimming Theronts stage. As we all know that stage lasts from 24 to 48 hours. Now with up to 200 theronts released from the encystment stage No ick would have to have a 100% kill rate almost instantaneously or run the risk of re -infection, as a reef keeper I would love a copper free reef safe alterative to Hypo I just wish we had more info on how this product works
 
cranberry

cranberry

Active Member
Sad to hear this did you in OP. You'll be back :)
I would love to have a discussion about these products in another thread if this one isn't appropriate.
"No Ick" is that expensive one that won't list their contents, right? They also never did any independent studies when I contacted them last. I love the way the new timers just accept that the quick fix rememdies are true and are willing to put an undisclosed ingredient in their tank... bravery

I believe they can knock it back during an infestation.... to undetectable levels even. Maybe if the stressor is gone never to return, the ich too will stay at low manageable numbers. I believe it may do this through increasing slime coat and immunity.... something like that... not targeting the parasite itself.
 
bay0627

bay0627

New Member
Duude im right ther with u i had to drain my tank twice cuz of ick and it killed everythin...does neone know what hypo is???
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Originally Posted by bay0627 http:///forum/post/3043147
Duude im right ther with u i had to drain my tank twice cuz of ick and it killed everythin...does neone know what hypo is???
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/127007/faqs-fish-diseases-treatments-quarantine-health-info
Read this thread...the whole thing
 
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