install a sump
- Thread starter u mike
- Start date
twood
Member
To prevent a flood from a power loss you need to do two things. One is to have a siphon break on your return pipe. This is usually a small hole drilled into the return pipe just below the water line. The hole needs to be large enough to allow air in when the water level in the tank drops. The second part is to adjust the water level in the sump so that there is enough empty space to accommodate the water that will back siphon from the display tank before the siphon break stops the siphon. You do this by turning off the return pump and monitoring the water level in the sump. If it gets close to overflowing with the pump off, turn the pump back on and remove some water from the sump. You want to have your sump nearly full but not overflowing with the return pump OFF. With the pump on, there will be some empty space in the sump.
mooseythemoron
Member
What is SUMP?
beaslbob
Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by twood
http:///forum/post/3285567
To prevent a flood from a power loss you need to do two things. One is to have a siphon break on your return pipe. This is usually a small hole drilled into the return pipe just below the water line. The hole needs to be large enough to allow air in when the water level in the tank drops. The second part is to adjust the water level in the sump so that there is enough empty space to accommodate the water that will back siphon from the display tank before the siphon break stops the siphon. You do this by turning off the return pump and monitoring the water level in the sump. If it gets close to overflowing with the pump off, turn the pump back on and remove some water from the sump. You want to have your sump nearly full but not overflowing with the return pump OFF. With the pump on, there will be some empty space in the sump.
After all that very important stuff you also need to fail the overflow( block or break siphon). And insure the sump runs dry before the display floods. After that adjustment return to normal operation and mark the water level on the sump. then never never add water so the levle in the sump is above that line.
I had 3 floods before I fugured that one out.
my .02
http:///forum/post/3285567
To prevent a flood from a power loss you need to do two things. One is to have a siphon break on your return pipe. This is usually a small hole drilled into the return pipe just below the water line. The hole needs to be large enough to allow air in when the water level in the tank drops. The second part is to adjust the water level in the sump so that there is enough empty space to accommodate the water that will back siphon from the display tank before the siphon break stops the siphon. You do this by turning off the return pump and monitoring the water level in the sump. If it gets close to overflowing with the pump off, turn the pump back on and remove some water from the sump. You want to have your sump nearly full but not overflowing with the return pump OFF. With the pump on, there will be some empty space in the sump.
After all that very important stuff you also need to fail the overflow( block or break siphon). And insure the sump runs dry before the display floods. After that adjustment return to normal operation and mark the water level on the sump. then never never add water so the levle in the sump is above that line.
I had 3 floods before I fugured that one out.
my .02
beaslbob
Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by mooseythemoron
http:///forum/post/3287227
What is SUMP?
By definition a sump is the lowest container in a system.
With aquariums you drain the upper containers (usually the display tank) to lower containers. Finally the water gets to the lowest container or sump. Where a pump returns the water to the higher(est) containers.
the idea is to allow for more water volume, add filters heaters and so on away from the display, and have a place for a refugium so macro algaes, pods, sponges, and other things you don't want is the display to thrive.
my .02
http:///forum/post/3287227
What is SUMP?
By definition a sump is the lowest container in a system.
With aquariums you drain the upper containers (usually the display tank) to lower containers. Finally the water gets to the lowest container or sump. Where a pump returns the water to the higher(est) containers.
the idea is to allow for more water volume, add filters heaters and so on away from the display, and have a place for a refugium so macro algaes, pods, sponges, and other things you don't want is the display to thrive.
my .02
mooseythemoron
Member
Originally Posted by beaslbob
http:///forum/post/3287237
By definition a sump is the lowest container in a system.
With aquariums you drain the upper containers (usually the display tank) to lower containers. Finally the water gets to the lowest container or sump. Where a pump returns the water to the higher(est) containers.
the idea is to allow for more water volume, add filters heaters and so on away from the display, and have a place for a refugium so macro algaes, pods, sponges, and other things you don't want is the display to thrive.
my .02
Thanks! I get it now, Hi - I am from India, im trying to figure out the do's and dont's of saltwater aquarium before I get one.
http:///forum/post/3287237
By definition a sump is the lowest container in a system.
With aquariums you drain the upper containers (usually the display tank) to lower containers. Finally the water gets to the lowest container or sump. Where a pump returns the water to the higher(est) containers.
the idea is to allow for more water volume, add filters heaters and so on away from the display, and have a place for a refugium so macro algaes, pods, sponges, and other things you don't want is the display to thrive.
my .02
Thanks! I get it now, Hi - I am from India, im trying to figure out the do's and dont's of saltwater aquarium before I get one.
u mike
Member
I am taking a step backwards , sent the sump i orded back know i am going with a 20 gal long tank will divide that into 4 sections, 1 skimmer 2 bubble trap 3 refuigm 4 return section. I am still looking for a place to cut a hole for a bulkhead in the sump.I found a 20 long for 31 bucks (new). Getting ready to order my skimmer(octopus x p 1000sss) this will be the best fit in my cabinet (only have 24 inch from top to bottom).already have return pump (mag 5 ). my big problem is i have to take down dt to fit sump through bottom of cabinet.
Originally Posted by beaslbob
http:///forum/post/3287235
After all that very important stuff you also need to fail the overflow( block or break siphon). And insure the sump runs dry before the display floods. After that adjustment return to normal operation and mark the water level on the sump. then never never add water so the levle in the sump is above that line.
I had 3 floods before I fugured that one out.
my .02
Originally Posted by beaslbob
http:///forum/post/3287235
After all that very important stuff you also need to fail the overflow( block or break siphon). And insure the sump runs dry before the display floods. After that adjustment return to normal operation and mark the water level on the sump. then never never add water so the levle in the sump is above that line.
I had 3 floods before I fugured that one out.
my .02
posiden
Active Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3288530
You sent it back
Probably saw what they are, how simple they are, and said heck no. Not for the cost.
http:///forum/post/3288530
You sent it back
Probably saw what they are, how simple they are, and said heck no. Not for the cost.
u mike
Member
yes i sent it back!!, I get lucky some times the lfs around the corner from me is where i got it, he will sell it not a problem. plus after i looked & saw there was no room for a refugium made it a eaiser decision. so now i am making one myself, so i will need everyone's help. I have been going crazy searching the computer trying to find some blueprints on how to make one. I feel i am pretty close.what I have right now is a 20 gal long. will divide into 4 sections just want to make sure all dividers are right size. so feel to put everyone's 2 cents in. also looking into a over flow box. my question on them is there different sizes ( I am looking for one to work on a 65 gal running into a 20 gal sump.)please feel free to help out. thanks u mike.
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3288530
You sent it back
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3288530
You sent it back
u mike
Member
I have some room on left side of stand, not really thrilled with putting hole in cabinet to do this. my plan was to finish sump make sure everything is a go then move fish / corals some lr into hospital then do what I have to do. plus this gives me a good chance to set up dt in a nice fashion to not have to move things for a long while. plus my grandson wants to help set the rocks up.Then i told him we could buy a anemone.
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/3288527
what kind of stand do you have? Any pics?
I ask cause I'm thinking you can remove an end and slide it in with out tanking down the DT. Maybe there is no room on either side?
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/3288527
what kind of stand do you have? Any pics?
I ask cause I'm thinking you can remove an end and slide it in with out tanking down the DT. Maybe there is no room on either side?
posiden
Active Member
Originally Posted by u mike
http:///forum/post/3288546
I have some room on left side of stand, not really thrilled with putting hole in cabinet to do this. my plan was to finish sump make sure everything is a go then move fish / corals some lr into hospital then do what I have to do. plus this gives me a good chance to set up dt in a nice fashion to not have to move things for a long while. plus my grandson wants to help set the rocks up.Then i told him we could buy a anemone.
Where I was going was, if you could just remove the skin on one end. Then you could just slide the new sump into place. That is if it has a frame and just a skin to fill in. I also forgot that you had mentioned some where that you need more room behind the tank too. I'm guessing that's for the overflow box?
I can understand the want behind moving things around. I just did that today myself. I'm sure you will but, I would wait on the nem untill things get cozy after the sump addition. Let things level out, ya know. You have strong lights, yes?
On the sump build, I would use glass for the baffles. I am not a fan of acrylic baffles in glass tanks. That's just me.
How high will the MAG 5 have to pump water to the DT? 5-6 feet?
Edit;
Do you want one or two returns?
http:///forum/post/3288546
I have some room on left side of stand, not really thrilled with putting hole in cabinet to do this. my plan was to finish sump make sure everything is a go then move fish / corals some lr into hospital then do what I have to do. plus this gives me a good chance to set up dt in a nice fashion to not have to move things for a long while. plus my grandson wants to help set the rocks up.Then i told him we could buy a anemone.
Where I was going was, if you could just remove the skin on one end. Then you could just slide the new sump into place. That is if it has a frame and just a skin to fill in. I also forgot that you had mentioned some where that you need more room behind the tank too. I'm guessing that's for the overflow box?
I can understand the want behind moving things around. I just did that today myself. I'm sure you will but, I would wait on the nem untill things get cozy after the sump addition. Let things level out, ya know. You have strong lights, yes?
On the sump build, I would use glass for the baffles. I am not a fan of acrylic baffles in glass tanks. That's just me.
How high will the MAG 5 have to pump water to the DT? 5-6 feet?
Edit;
Do you want one or two returns?
u mike
Member
the mag 5 will pump just a hair over 4 feet.
I was leaning to only one return.
yes yhere will be a overflow box, going to get that today with a bulkhead so I can get a hole drilled tomorrow for the sump.
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/3288562
Where I was going was, if you could just remove the skin on one end. Then you could just slide the new sump into place. That is if it has a frame and just a skin to fill in. I also forgot that you had mentioned some where that you need more room behind the tank too. I'm guessing that's for the overflow box?
I can understand the want behind moving things around. I just did that today myself. I'm sure you will but, I would wait on the nem untill things get cozy after the sump addition. Let things level out, ya know. You have strong lights, yes?
On the sump build, I would use glass for the baffles. I am not a fan of acrylic baffles in glass tanks. That's just me.
How high will the MAG 5 have to pump water to the DT? 5-6 feet?
Edit;
Do you want one or two returns?
I was leaning to only one return.
yes yhere will be a overflow box, going to get that today with a bulkhead so I can get a hole drilled tomorrow for the sump.
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/3288562
Where I was going was, if you could just remove the skin on one end. Then you could just slide the new sump into place. That is if it has a frame and just a skin to fill in. I also forgot that you had mentioned some where that you need more room behind the tank too. I'm guessing that's for the overflow box?
I can understand the want behind moving things around. I just did that today myself. I'm sure you will but, I would wait on the nem untill things get cozy after the sump addition. Let things level out, ya know. You have strong lights, yes?
On the sump build, I would use glass for the baffles. I am not a fan of acrylic baffles in glass tanks. That's just me.
How high will the MAG 5 have to pump water to the DT? 5-6 feet?
Edit;
Do you want one or two returns?
u mike
Member
i think i will go with a output, plus i will drill some holes in the pipe to help with the backlash of power loss.
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/3290335
Are you going to use a spray bar or just an output?
In any case, keep it close to the top of the water surface. If/when the power goes out or your pump gives up, the height of the return will determine how much water back siphons into the sump.
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/3290335
Are you going to use a spray bar or just an output?
In any case, keep it close to the top of the water surface. If/when the power goes out or your pump gives up, the height of the return will determine how much water back siphons into the sump.
posiden
Active Member
Originally Posted by u mike
http:///forum/post/3290349
i think i will go with a output, plus i will drill some holes in the pipe to help with the backlash of power loss.
Ok, I would drill 2 holes for the siphon break. Just in case a snail decides to park on one of them. I know that's a one in a million chance. Also don't drill the holes to close to the surface of the water. IIRC the holes will actually draw water in while the return pump is running. So if the little holes are too close to the water line, they will draw in air and make a sucking noise. I can't tell you just how low they need to be cause I don't have any experience with the siphon break holes. Maybe someone how does will chime in for you.
http:///forum/post/3290349
i think i will go with a output, plus i will drill some holes in the pipe to help with the backlash of power loss.
Ok, I would drill 2 holes for the siphon break. Just in case a snail decides to park on one of them. I know that's a one in a million chance. Also don't drill the holes to close to the surface of the water. IIRC the holes will actually draw water in while the return pump is running. So if the little holes are too close to the water line, they will draw in air and make a sucking noise. I can't tell you just how low they need to be cause I don't have any experience with the siphon break holes. Maybe someone how does will chime in for you.