Is low salt bad?

seltzerd

Member
Also, if you are going with corals, etc. you likely need better light. Get those before the corals AND will speed evaporation too. I have a 90 with LED, and because I am in a hot area, I evaporate at least 5 gal/week. (keep my water at 78)
 

aztec reef

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
http:///forum/post/2700708
here is a quote from Randall holmes-farley from an article on refractometers
The salinity on natural reefs has been discussed in a previous article. Based on such information, my recommendation is to maintain salinity at a natural level of about 35 ppt (abbreviated as ‰ and also as PSU, practical salinity units). If the aquarium's organisms are from brackish environments with lower salinity, or from the Red Sea with higher salinity, selecting something other than 35 ppt may make good sense. Otherwise, I suggest targeting a salinity of 35 ppt (specific gravity = 1.0264; conductivity = 53 mS/cm; refractive index = 1.33940).
Recommendations aside, high quality reef aquaria exist with a fairly wide range of salinity. Many highly successful reef aquaria have salinity in the range of 32-36 ppt, or specific gravity in the range of 1.024 to 1.027.
True, but how do hobbyists suppost to know where the organisms are coming from? what part of earth?
Or wether they were wild caught vs. tank raised?
Also does randy know (jk
)why lfs keep really low salinity? regardless of species..opposed to average natural reef levels?
maybe if they kept them within range the acclimation process would be less stressfull to fish.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by Aztec Reef
http:///forum/post/2700756
True, but how do hobbyists suppost to know where the organisms are coming from? what part of earth?
if you do your research before buying you should know the possible origins of the animal. obviously there are such fish as the red sea purple tang that are indiginous to that area.... if they ask enough questions, they can get answers. if they dont bad juju on them for not being annoying enough to get the answers, or smart enough to do the research.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by Aztec Reef
http:///forum/post/2700756
Also does randy know (jk
)why lfs keep really low salinity? regardless of species..opposed to average natural reef levels?.
well I dont know what he knows, but its pretty common knowledge LFS's run lower than normal to prevent ich from showing (note I didnt say to treat ich).
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
As with just about everything in this hobby in most cases its not the end result but the time line it takes to get there that can be a problem Your salinity level is not bad in of its self but if you had a drop from lets say 1.205 in an hour that’s a problem. Rapid fluctuations are one of our biggest enemies. You will want to make any corrections in salinity slowly
 

jjjoey

Active Member
i tested my salt today its at 1.020
so i guess i will top off with saltwater for about a month to get it up to (1.025-1.026)
and i thought my lights were enough for some zoas and such
im using both 48" Extreme Orbit 2x130watt SunPaq with Lunar Lights & Fan and a 48" Jebo 4x 65 watt PC lights on the tank
i get alot of evaporation
 

aztec reef

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
http:///forum/post/2700795
if you do your research before buying you should know the possible origins of the animal. obviously there are such fish as the red sea purple tang that are indiginous to that area.... if they ask enough questions, they can get answers. if they dont bad juju on them for not being annoying enough to get the answers, or smart enough to do the research.

I'm not arguing or trying to be. But you know i like to debate conventional theories.
Good points, but let me tag them
.
The only problem is that a lfs is the worst place to get advice.
Second, the livestock is gathered in different collecting sites throughout the natural reefs /breeders and from all different pacifics/oceans due to fishing cuotas, demand, scarcity,seasons,wholesale discount packages from collectors, availability...depleasion of species ..delicacy of species, ect..
It would be nice if when u walked in the lfs, every species had a specific tank environment according to their origen. and also advertising its habitat demands..opposed to selling all organisms with equally basic demands as if they all come from the barrier reef.
This theory goes out the window with lfs, as they just put livestock anywhere its convenient to capture and be sold. thast why they stay in bussines.
If i told u that all turbo snails come from Mejico, would u believe me??
If thats the truth then i have found the culprid why turbos don't last in the average reef tanks..
Also Turbo Snails are normally not harvested from July-September and will be unavailable to purchase due to the extreme heat in Mejico...
So how does a lfs sell turbos all year around??? They must have different sources..
 

aztec reef

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
http:///forum/post/2700796
price.
U think thats the only differencial fact?
I wouldn't compare wild caught vs. controlled ecosystem raised.
The activities are different, fluctuations, feeding regimens, water chemistry, human intervention, human error, human speculations, quick-fix remedies and so on.
every species has and can evolved due to its original environment. and chemical equillibrium.
We cannot compare the Ocean's chemistry with a controlled tank's chemistry. We can mimic it, but it would never be the same. thus each species has adopted a specific immune system and digestive system & tolerance capacity to fluctuations, temp average, ect..
 

aztec reef

Active Member
Originally Posted by JJJoey
http:///forum/post/2700847
i tested my salt today its at 1.020
so i guess i will top off with saltwater for about a month to get it up to (1.025-1.026)
and i thought my lights were enough for some zoas and such
im using both 48" Extreme Orbit 2x130watt SunPaq with Lunar Lights & Fan and a 48" Jebo 4x 65 watt PC lights on the tank
i get alot of evaporation
You have plenty of light power for zoas and depending on tank size even some lps..
 

aztec reef

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
http:///forum/post/2700803
well I dont know what he knows, but its pretty common knowledge LFS's run lower than normal to prevent ich from showing (note I didnt say to treat ich).
Thats so convenient, what a scam! So they prevent customers from seeing ich or other parasites at the lfs eh, little do we know that when we put them into our salty reef they start flaunting all this sicknesses.
But fyi: all sicknesses start from inadecude environments, polluted water, poor dietry habits, immunity enhancement, due to chemical supplements/medicinal practices, fluctuation regularity, numerous acclimation processes(before it even gets in your tank) and so, on,and on..
If Ich was a common sickness in NSW, it would wipe -out any reef into oblivion..
 

aztec reef

Active Member
Originally Posted by JJJoey
http:///forum/post/2700895
55 gallon
Yeah, that looks good.
You have enuff lighting for most corals for a while. Just stay away from high intensity demanding corals such as sps.
You might still get away with them, but for sps it takes a mature tank with cal/alk stability skills and metal halide lighting in order for them to thrive...
 

aztec reef

Active Member
yeah,if water levels are good, start adding corals gradually.(especially fishes) since they make up most of bioload, thus you'll need to keep them to a minimun, this can be tweaked alittle depending on biological capacity & your tank's filtration abilities.. Patience is a key element when building a stable reef.
 
Top