Is this coral okay?

I just recieved 2 frags of pom pom xenia. It was overnighted with a 30 hour heatpack. The frogspawn is awesome and looks great!

The xenia....not so good. I don't know if its dead, or just shocked....I temp. acclimated them for 45min to an hour and then placed them directly into the tank.
Here are some photos:
Before they were shipped

And After



Here's some crappy crappy crappy pics of my frogspawn I'll try to take better ones tomorrow


 

spanko

Active Member
In the future it is not necessary to acclimate coral. I just let the bag sit in the tank for 10 minutes or so to let the temp even out then out of the bag and into the display. Don't put the water from the bag in the display.
 
I guess I wasn't clear in my description lol. I floated the bags in my tank, and after 45 minutes or so poured the water into a bucket, and then placed the coral into the tank. I knew you did not acclimate them like fish, and inverts etc.. and I def. dont add the bag water to my tank

Thank you! I hope your right and they perk up!
 

xeniaman

Member
I have pom pom and waving xenia in my tank and they have been out of the water for a while with no harm done. Xenia are a weird coral, some of the most experienced can't keep them, when noobies have no trouble at all. When the stalks start to turn dark, then they are on the way out.
 
Originally Posted by xeniaman
http:///forum/post/2530962
I have pom pom and waving xenia in my tank and they have been out of the water for a while with no harm done. Xenia are a weird coral, some of the most experienced can't keep them, when noobies have no trouble at all. When the stalks start to turn dark, then they are on the way out.
*shew* I've glued zoas, and shrooms out of the water, and was beginnig to think I had made a mistake by taking them out of the water to glue them. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for these guys. I've got them in a "low flow" part of my tank for now. Both the stalks are white, so hopefully they will be okay.
 

matt b

Active Member
Originally Posted by Cherish life.
http:///forum/post/2530522
my lfs said to make sure my xenia didnt touch air...so that could be the problem

Mine is in air all the time! It seems like I frag it every week and I take the whole rock out to do it. I think they are talking about sponges
 

rebelprettyboy

Active Member
move the xenia up man. Seems to me they like moderate flow and at the bottom wont cut it. This is what mine looked like lower in the tank
AND THIS IS HOW IT LOOKS NOW... GROWING LIKE CRAZY ALREADY
JUST MOVE IT UP IN THE TANK AND SEE WHAT YOU GET
 
Girl actually

I was trying to keep them at the bottom for fear that they wiggle to much and come "un glued" but they came unglued anyway. They are currently in a plastic container with LR rubble and covered with bridal veil. I hope they attach soon so I can put them where they need to be!
how long does it usually take them to attach?
Your xenia looks great!!
Wow! Your xenia did not like being in low flow did they? I just hope I can get mine to look as good as that someday!
 

rebelprettyboy

Active Member
haha sorry about the man. I know girls hate that lol. Sorry but yeah when I moved it up one or 2 days later it took off... Its been growing stong now for about 2-3 weeks im not sure. I bet you could prolly move it up now and it woulndt come loose. Dont wanna wait to long to make it happy
 
No Problem!!
I checked on them today and one seems to have attached and the other seems a little slow, so I will be moving the 1 stalk out of the veil and into the current tomorrow!
 

sk8shorty01

Active Member
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/2529427
In the future it is not necessary to acclimate coral. I just let the bag sit in the tank for 10 minutes or so to let the temp even out then out of the bag and into the display. Don't put the water from the bag in the display.

Why do you suppose this? I have heard that a few times, but I don't know that it is entirely accurate. Although the corals might live, I am sure that it is quite detrimental to the colony to be acclimated in this way. A coral is an invert, and if you did the same thing with a snail or crab you would have a dead crab, so I would assume it is because there are so many polyps, this is why you are able to do this with success. I would think that a longer acclimation time (the same as you would for a shrimp) would be the best bet to keep the coral healthy and have nothing show any ill effects from the transfer. Inverts have a very hard time with unstable water quality or parameter swings that are to large, so why would acclimation not be the same as a parameter swing? In my opinion, I would acclimate all corals like you would any other invert, as they are more fragile than most other aquarium inhabitants.
 

spanko

Active Member
This from a large wholesaler-retailer of marine organisms.
"Acclimating Corals, Anemones, Mollusks, and Clams
First Get them to The Right Temperature
Shipping is a stressful process and careful acclimation and a little TLC for the first few days will insure long-term success. Remove the outer bags and float the closed inner bag with the animal inside in your tank or sump for 30 minutes or until the bag and tank temp. are the same.
Then Give them a bath!
Every coral arriving at our facility is dipped in a mild iodine based solution as a biosecurity measure to help insure that pathogens are not added to our systems. We highly suggest before placing corals (DO NOT dip anemones, or clams or they will die!!) in your tank, you do the same. There are many preperations on the market , and we can provide one for you, or your local LFS will glady help you. If none are available to you the same solution may be made by going to your local drug store and purchasing a small bottle of Tincture of Iodine from the antiseptic section. Add 15-20 drops of Tincture of Iodine to a liter of tank water and allow the corals to stay in this dip for 10 -15 minutes. Rinse the animals with tank water prior to placing them in your tank. When finished, throw out the dip water, do not add it to your tank.
Place the newly acclimated animals at mid-tank or lower for the first few days, with mild alternating current. After a few days most corals may be placed in their final location. For SPS corals, (acropora), it is best to keep them in a lower lighting area for at least 1 week. and over a few weeks slowly move them to final positions. If they are to quickly supplied with bright light, many times they will bleach, or RTN and die.
For Sponges Only
Note: Sponges should never be directly exposed to air. Follow the normal coral acclimation procedures for temperature, but once acclimated to the temperature, submerge the bag underwater in the aquarium and remove the sponge from the bag under water. Never let the sponge be exposed to air.
Some live corals, especially leathers, and some SPS acro's, produce excess slime when shipped.
After acclimation , hold the coral by the rock or skeletal base and shake the coral in the shipping bag before placing into the aquarium. To avoid damaging the coral, please remember never to touch the "fleshy" part of a live coral.
My Coral's not Opening or Flowering! Many species of coral will not open for several days or weeks after introduction into their new home. Please allow time for the new addition to adapt to their new home."
And the following from a large coral farming - retail site
"QUARANTINE IS NOT REQUIRED FOR CAPTIVE BRED CORALS
Normally it is highly recommend that all corals be quarantined in a separate aquarium for a period of several weeks to a month, to reduce the possibility of introducing diseases and parasites into your aquarium. With farm-raised corals from us, this is no longer necessary. Our corals are pest free, and dont come with unwanted hitchhikers like bubble algae (valonia), nudibranchs, and nuisance algaes, all of which can quickly overwhelm a tank.
Acclimation Procedures Upon Arrival:
STEP 1: Temperature Acclimation
Turn off the aquarium lights and nearby bright lights. Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 15 minutes in the tank water (tank or sump). Dont open the shipping bag yet as the oxygen level in the bag is still higher than outside the bag. This will allow the water in the shipping bag to adjust slowly to the temperature in the aquarium. Do not float them directly under metal halide bulbs as they may overheat the bag. It is best to turn the lights off during floating and during the first few hours, to allow the animals to gently adjust to their new surroundings.
STEP 2: Putting the corals in the tank
After floating, put the items directly into the tank, first gently swishing them upside-down in the water to dislodge any accumulated debris, and then place in a good current area in the lower part of your tank. It is not necessary to use a drip acclimation system. These animals are quite hardy."
Here are many more and I will continue to look for something by someone I can post the name of here.
 

spanko

Active Member
I should also add to the above that Light Acclimation is a definite requirement, but I am addressing typical drip acclimation here.
 

spanko

Active Member
I agree with the keeping of coral systems at full strength seawater.. around 1.245
1.026 is getting too high IMO (less dissolved oxygen)
As for slow versus fast changes... the arguments about corals being sensitive to salinity changes is laughable for most species in the trade which are or can be (species but not necessarily your specimen) intertidal!!! Good heaven's... every day on the reef, tides go out and in, extremes of heat... rainfall (freshwater!) on exposed corals (low tide) during winter/rainy seasons... puh-lease [BigGrin] What is the basis of argument for these species not being able to take slight changes in salinity? Your information is mistaken here too my friend.
Its nearly the same story for fishes (lesser eveil to get them in faster as defined by rates of mortality and morbidity... some whoesalers literally track this on their computers).
Some inverts like shrimps, however, that do nto ever see intertidal exposure and are not tolerant of it will need a slower acclimation indeed. But even then we are talking about 5-15 minutes... not longer. Its more harm than good to keep your creatures in the shipping bad (stress if not water quality)
.
Anthony Calfo
 
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