isn't it true that ick can come anytime,if a fish is stressed or for whatever reason

clown52

Member
What would recomend treating the fish in the QT with then, if there was nothing other than the fish?
Also, won't the fish want somewhere to hide?
Thanks
 

saltn00b

Active Member
the qt should have a very thin layer of sand. people often use PVC piping to provide places for the fish to hide so they feel comfortable, yet providing a sterile area.
i dont understand your first question if you would care to re-word it.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Originally Posted by saltn00b
so lion are you suggesting that everytime you get a new fish and QT him for 4 weeks you always do hypo to it as well ? i have just been QTing in a normal parameter tank and keeping an eye out for any outbreaks, at which point i would begin the hypo process (have not had to yet), and keep them in there for an extended period of time (4 weeks from the 1st sighting)
Yeah, that is normally okay. However, if any of the other fish at the LFS have ich, I would hypo the new fish, even if you don't see any signs on him yet. He might be carrying ich, and you may never know. If you don't decide to hypo the fish, when you introduce that fish into your tank however, one of your fish in the tank with a lower immune system will contract the ich that your new fish was carrying.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Originally Posted by Clown52
Is there anything wrong with useing copper in a QT tank if there are no inverts? Would it hurt LR?
Thanks
Yes, you want to avoid using copper at all costs, if you ask me. It negatively effects many fish, such as tangs, angels, and butterflies, and it will definitely kill live rock.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Originally Posted by ryand5
ok but i got a question, if you have a new tank let it cycle and stuff if the LR or LS has is during the cycle would it die or would it be able to feed off of the cycle, because whats the point of QT the fish if the tank natually has it
No tank naturally has ich. Ich is carried in by fish, new live rock, things of that nature. When you cycle your tank and let it run fishless for 4 to 6 weeks, any ich that might have come in on live rock or live sand will naturally die because it will not have a fish to host off of. Parasites need fish to host off of to live.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Originally Posted by Clown52
What would recomend treating the fish in the QT with then, if there was nothing other than the fish?
Also, won't the fish want somewhere to hide?
Thanks
If you are only treating ich, don't use any medications. A simple hypo will kill any ich that might have if you hypo them long enough (min. 4 weeks).
The fish definitely need comfort in the QT. You need to have fake ornaments or PVC piping. I myself like fake ornaments because they are a little more natural.
 
S

sinner's girl

Guest
inverts
ich doesn't come on inverts, ich does not effect inverts.
 

saltn00b

Active Member
if you ever have to treat that tank, with hypo , that will kill the LR as well. why are you so die hard in keeping LR in the QT anyway?
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
No, because if you need to do hypo, you will need to take the live rock out, and this may cause a bit of an ammonia spike because you will be removing bacteria.
As stated, hypo kills live rock.
 

murph

Active Member
IMO QTs should be bare bottom and nothing but pieces of PVC for the fish to hide. If there is room in the sump, keeping a decent size sponge filter going with a power head provides a movable established biological filter to set up a QT on short notice.
Fill a spare tank with water from your main system and move the sponge filter over from your sump to the QT for instant bio filtration for the QT. Then whatever treatments route is decided on can start from there in the QT.
 

murph

Active Member
The mirror effect is from you looking though the front pane to the bottom and seeing a mirror effect. Look at the tank from the top (water surface) to the bottom. Your mirror will disappear.
 

unleashed

Active Member
Originally Posted by saltn00b
yes copper will kill the LR as well. you shouldnt have any LR in the QT anyway.
the thing with copper is that a) it does not necassarily kill the ich off
b) it wreaks havoc on the fish, possibly weakening it further and killing it. think of it like radiology cancer treatment.
c) once its in the tank you can basically never get it out, and you can never safely house inverts or LR in that tank ever again.
yes using copper can create stress on some fish that are sensetive to the medication .but copper does kill the paresite when left in treatment for required amount of time normally 21 days is sufficient.there are other forms of medication that can also be used to replace copper treatments.or other methods but to say copper doesnt kill the paresite is false.I have seen many arguements over the use of copper based medications and the subject is shortening of life span of your fish.the paresite itself can shorten the life span of your fish if not treated.the foods most offer their fish also shorten the life span of the fish.placing them into an aquarium also shortens the life span of most fish.there are safe levels of medication that must be maintained to acheive both erratication of paresites and safe levels for your fish.too much of anything can be fatal to a fish.including hypo treatment.btw which is also stressful on your fish. I do treat all my new fish ina qt with coppersafe just to lower the risk of infestation in my main tank from new fish.but once the fish reaches the main tank it does have the chance of being subject to the paresite if your tank is not 100% clear of it and chances of that are slim to nothing.
 

3bavboys

Member
so,
i lost a raccoon butterfly to ick this week -
my coral beauty has a spot-
the only other fish/inverts left in the tank are - a 6 line wrasse, a cc strfsh , and a cleaner shrimp
what to do next ?
let the ick run its course , and perhaps the cb and 6 line will beat it ?
if the beat it , ok great - set up a qt for my next fish
if they succumb - what do i do ? - let it run fallow ? for how long ? - what about the shrimp and the strfsh ?
at a min , what does the qt need ?- i have an old 55g that i gave to my father-in-law , he is not using it
 

unleashed

Active Member
Originally Posted by 3bavboys
so,
i lost a raccoon butterfly to ick this week -
my coral beauty has a spot-
the only other fish/inverts left in the tank are - a 6 line wrasse, a cc strfsh , and a cleaner shrimp
what to do next ?
let the ick run its course , and perhaps the cb and 6 line will beat it ?
if the beat it , ok great - set up a qt for my next fish
if they succumb - what do i do ? - let it run fallow ? for how long ? - what about the shrimp and the strfsh ?
at a min , what does the qt need ?- i have an old 55g that i gave to my father-in-law , he is not using it
are the fish eating? this will be the factor on what you can do. what are they eating and how often. is also a factor.make sure your coral beauty is getting a diet of angel food (they need the sponge it provides no other food source will provide it)what i do when my fish show any signs of ich in my reef tank I will boost feedings from 3 times a day to 4 times by adding an extra small serving or thera+a non medicated antiparesitic formula pellets.add dosing of garlic extreme and selcon to every pm feeding the frozen foods are soaked in b4 feeding.also I add direct to the tank 1 drop of garlic extreme per every 10 gal.1 mil of selcon for every 50 gal. the selcon is also very beneficial to your inverts health.do maintain good water quality and stable temp. as for setting up a 55 for future fish is a good size to use IMO. i hope this helps
 

3bavboys

Member
thx guys
it looks like it may be a false alarm
cb and 6 line have NO spots at all
i guess what i saw this morning was sand (substrate) on them
all gone now
i fed a cube of angel / butterfly diet (frozen) - they all ate aggressively
will get selcon and garlic extreme over the w/e anyway
can't hurt , correct ?
 
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