LED DIY LIGHT build

acrylic51

Active Member
Your correct Corey with the right size heat sink fans shouldn't really be needed, but using an alternative measure and the cost of the equipment and using the "U" or box, I'd be reluctant to run without a fan......I'm just more trying to conserve on weight.....Those heat sinks aren't super light.....Maybe for a smaller build, but for something on my line I'm looking at 4 panels possibly 12"W x 30"L......Weight adds up quick, that's why I was considering the alternative.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/383238/led-diy-light-build/20#post_3352199
If you go with an appropriate sized heat sink than fans shouldn't necessarily be needed but they could be a benefit to have. I'm thinking your aluminum bars are going to get pretty hot and the leds aren't going to last nearly as long as they could using a heat sink. Heat build up is also going to depend alot on the spacing of the led's. IIRC, I think the heat sinks are typically milled out of a solid chunk of aluminum.
Did you ever check out that build that I posted the link for? I would try to emulate something like that for your tank.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/383238/led-diy-light-build/40#post_3352676
Your correct Corey with the right size heat sink fans shouldn't really be needed, but using an alternative measure and the cost of the equipment and using the "U" or box, I'd be reluctant to run without a fan......I'm just more trying to conserve on weight.....Those heat sinks aren't super light.....Maybe for a smaller build, but for something on my line I'm looking at 4 panels possibly 12"W x 30"L......Weight adds up quick, that's why I was considering the alternative.....
Understandable, Shawn. I was looking at the new heatsinks on rapidled. They have them in 1" widths now. I'm thinking about using those kind of like that one guy did with the square aluminum tube. Use 6 with 12 leds a piece as an alternative to like a 6 bulb T5 fixture. 3 rows blue, 2 white and one either with some reds or purple or maybe even greens or mix all three, not sure yet.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Thanks Corey!!!! I'll have to check the new heat sinks out at Rapid. I knew you could get that style off of eBay cut to length and wasn't unreasonable as well.
 

1snapple

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/383238/led-diy-light-build/40#post_3352762
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/383238/led-diy-light-build/40#post_3352676
Your correct Corey with the right size heat sink fans shouldn't really be needed, but using an alternative measure and the cost of the equipment and using the "U" or box, I'd be reluctant to run without a fan......I'm just more trying to conserve on weight.....Those heat sinks aren't super light.....Maybe for a smaller build, but for something on my line I'm looking at 4 panels possibly 12"W x 30"L......Weight adds up quick, that's why I was considering the alternative.....
Understandable, Shawn. I was looking at the new heatsinks on rapidled. They have them in 1" widths now. I'm thinking about using those kind of like that one guy did with the square aluminum tube. Use 6 (why 6? I would do 3-4. like RB, CW, Multi color, RB and mess w/ the optics.)
with 12 leds(How long are these heatsinks?)
a piece as an alternative to like a 6 bulb T5 fixture. 3 rows blue, 2 white and one either with some reds or purple or maybe even greens or mix all three, not sure yet.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
6, I would want them as individual strips, that way if one bulb goes out or one of the drivers I wouldn't have to take all of them down to fix. I would use the 48" long ones or twelve 24" long ones. I already have the optics and colors planned for the most part. Each color with be indivudually dimmable/controlable so that I can play with the color temp. Since they can be controlable I don't have to bother with a certain ratio like 2:1 so to speak to get the color temp that I'm after.
 

1snapple

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/383238/led-diy-light-build/40#post_3352778
6, I would want them as individual strips, that way if one bulb goes out or one of the drivers I wouldn't have to take all of them down to fix. I would use the 48" long ones or twelve 24" long ones. I already have the optics and colors planned for the most part. Each color with be indivudually dimmable/controlable so that I can play with the color temp. Since they can be controlable I don't have to bother with a certain ratio like 2:1 so to speak to get the color temp that I'm after.
Ya, I think we are going to go the way of LEDs on our main tank because MH fixtures have never worked for us. In obtaining them anyway.
We will do 3 rows 48" long.
RB
CW
Multi colors. (fill out spectrum)
All will be on different drivers for individual dimmability.
 

1snapple

Active Member
Sadly no, the drivers ARE OUT!!!!
they should be shipped out today or tomorrow, or next week......

But I did get the other pieces of aluminum cut, drilled, and riveted together.
I will post pics tomorrow.
 

monsinour

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Snapple http:///forum/thread/383238/led-diy-light-build/40#post_3354238
Sadly no, the drivers ARE OUT!!!!
they should be shipped out today or tomorrow, or next week......

But I did get the other pieces of aluminum cut, drilled, and riveted
together.
I will post pics tomorrow.

Rivets wont transfer heat all that well. Might find that some pieces will get warmer and disipate heat better than others.
 

1snapple

Active Member
What transfers heat well? I don't want mass amounts of heats on the connecting beams because I am going to hang it w/ monofiliment fishing line so it looks like it's floating.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
I don't think the rivets are totally crucial. They are just in place to hold the unit together. What size aluminum are you using Josh? What is your spacing on the LEDs?
 

monsinour

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Snapple http:///forum/thread/383238/led-diy-light-build/20#post_3352204

Assuming LEDs on the grey pieces and wires suspending the black pieces right? If thats the case then use rivets so the suspending pieces dont get hot. If you wanted to really transfer heat, welding the pieces together would be the best bet.
I base this knowledge on heatsinks from my experience in both the home and car audio worlds. The best units at keeping cool are the one piece heatsinks. The solid block with fins. Next best is the fins being welded to the solid block. the worst was fins held on by rivets/tack weld/glue. If you have a home theater, take the screws off of the back of the receiver and look at the heat sink inside. Pending name brand and model, the better units will be all one solid piece like my Onkyo. The really horrid units will have a solid piece with some kind of glue/tac weld/riveted folded aluminum foil attached to it ala kenwood/pioneer/sony/jvc etcetera.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
The biggest issue with actual heat sinks are weight. Most people aren't equipped or experienced to weld aluminum, and having it done isn't cheap.
 

1snapple

Active Member
well, just finally got my 2 clowns, 2 misbarred clowns for $24 =D
I also got a 6 line wrasse for my pico because of flatworm issues.
 
Top