Making a Refugium

[smoney]

Ok, I am making a 10 gallon refugium for my 50 gallon. I took the blueprints from my friend and edited them to fit my tank. the refugium is going in the stand under the 50gallon tank(So, the piping the the picture is a little twisted and a little off). Tell me if I am even close to getting this right? :notsure:

 

[smoney]

bump! :notsure:

 

[farmboy]

Hey Smoney!
YOu probably don't want to slow the overflow plumbing going into the fuge with a valve. Besides, it will only flow OUT of the display as fast as you put water IN. I would aslo get as big of a tank that will FIT and I could afford for a fuge/sump. WHen ya start dividing it, it gets small-fast.
BTW, YGM

 

[smoney]

That is the biggest tank that I can fit the bottom of the stand, so far (plus it is an extra tank). I'm kind of trying to figure this stuff out on my own at first, then tommorrow my friend is going to help me out with it. But do you think I should take out the divider in the 10 gallon tank? Is that what you meant by the flow slowing down? As for the valves I dont know about those.

 

[farmboy]

You could divide the 10-no problem. I started with a 29 an made it into 3 compartments. I would like to have a 40 gallon breeder or whichever one will fit under my 75. I saved a few bucks at the time.

Oh, well.
The problem I ran in to was: when you start moving the water into the pump area, there are a TON of bubbles that get returned to the display. One way to eliminate the bubbles is to slow everything down (not as easy as you think-without getting a smaller pump )
OR make everything bigger-like the volume of the pump area and the actual "drop" the water makes into the pump area from the fuge area. Bubble traps help a lot (an additional baffle lifted off the bottom of the tank located in between the fuge wall and the pump) BUT that is more real estate. . . .
May I suggest getting an additional 10gallon and have it and the one you have drilled so you can connect them. This would let you have the full 10 for a fuge-sweet- and more space for the sump-heater, skimmer, pump, etc.
The cost should not be out of site. My LFS has 10's for like 9 or 10 dollars. He said he would drill a tank for 10 bucks a hole. That would put it around $30-plus the fittings to connect the 2 tanks.

 

[smoney]

what kind of glue did you use for the walls? I was going to go to home depot, but i need to know which glue to use?

 

[tim_12]

You should add a baffle to get rid of any bubbles that might reach the return pump and fill your display with tons of little bubbles. I would also reccomend some sort of top-off system to replace any evaporated water. Heres a modified drawing of your setup should be. If you play it out, the water level in the display will aways remain the same since any excess water will flow to your refugium. The same is true for your refugium water overflowing to your return pump chamber. But since your return pump chamber is the fanal resting place for any excess water before being returned to your display, this is the only place you'll see a difference in water level due to changes in your system(ie. evaporation). And since its giong to be such a small chamber, it wont take long for that small amount of water to evaporate and ruin your pump from being run dry.

 

[hurt]

I would definitely get rid of the ball balve on your drain line into your fuge. This serves no purpose at all. Yes, the H2O in your DT will remain constant and levels in your fuge will fluctuate through evaporation.
and the actual "drop" the water makes into the pump area from the fuge area.
You do not want a drop. If you make H20 drop into your pump area you will have bubbles being pumped back into your DT.

 

[laddy]

Call me crazy, but I don't see anything wrong with having a ball valve on your supply line. If you ever need it, it's there, and if you don't leave it open.

 

[hurt]

Call me crazy, but I don't see anything wrong with having a ball valve on your supply line. If you ever need it, it's there, and if you don't leave it open.
Could you tell me any purpose that putting a ball valve in your overflow line serves(from DT down to sump/fuge)? You should never obstruct your line down to your sump/refugium. This line will only take in as much water as is being pumped from your sump/fuge back to your DT. If you try to slow this line down all you will do is overflow you DT.

 

[hurt]

SMoney- Also I would modify your return line. Instead of putting in 3 90' turns I would put in 2 45' turns. This will make it easier from your return pump to put H2O back into you DT. Thus your return pump will last longer and put less heat into your tank. Also I would modify your ball valve. This will also do the same and make your pump-pump harder, put more heat into your tank, and ultimately decrease the life of your return pump. I would put a T right above your return pump and off the T put a ball balve going back into your same chamber(return pump). This will make it easier on your return pump and you can control the flow of H20 back into your DT very easily. Here are couple of pics of my set-up and a diagram to better help you understand.

 

[smoney]

I am going to take out the valves, I think I am going to put two 45's instead of the 3 90's and I am going to add some more walls in the refuge so that I can limit the bubbles, my friend told me the same thing. I will put a new edited diagram up later tonight when I have more time. I also had the question on which kind of glue I should pick up at home depot? :help: I
Thanks everyone for all the help on this, I am trying to make this first one good, and I think its going to work! :joy:

 

[dodgersfan]

superglue GEL, thats what i read? i dont know which brand is good though

 

[farmboy]

TO secure the baffles, I used 100% clear silicon caulk. Just run a bead on either side of the joint where it meets the glass.
Give any thought to 2-10 gallons?

 

[smoney]

Ok, sorry I havent been updating, I have been really busy. I have thought of putting two glass tanks in, but the problem is that time is a factor and my fish store doesnt drill glass. I am going to buy two ten gallon tanks in a month and redo it, but I got some really good live sand, fan worms, and Caulerpa(got it from a really good tank) that need a new home fast.
Anyways, I took out the valves and added more baffles, but I couldn't figure out how to put the 2-45degrees in??? Im going to glue the baffles later tonight, tell me if the baffles look right???(it may be hard to see but there are 3 walls)
Also, what kind of overflow box does this require? like whats the name or what to search for on the net?

 

[hurt]

Hope this schematic will help you. As for an overflow, check-out the online auction site. I would not by the CPR style. Buy an overflow with U-tubes. These will not lose their siphon.

 

[smoney]

That looks good, I was looking on the online auction site, but I dont know which one to get.
Could you email me the link to the right type? or tell me what to look for?

 

[farmboy]

THe third wall isn't needed. If ya do use it, though it should be much shorter, otherwise the water will have to "fall" down to the level inside the pump compartment causing MORE bubbles. It takes up space also. I don't use the third wall and it's just fine.
I remembered seeing an old thread on fuges that may be intersting to you. Get some caffeine and ENJOY!

https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/show...t=plumbing+101

 

[hurt]

I personally don't feel that the baffles you have added make a difference. I used to have mine set up similiarly, but I have since ripped out the two baffles in mine. Also, I would put two baffles in where the water enters your fuge. This will ensure proper flow of H2O, that is the H20 that enters the fuge will not just go straight over the top and back into your return pump, and H20 will just sit in your fuge, creating dead spots. It also serves as a bubble trap so you won't have to worry about bubbles entering your return pump. Here are a couple of pics of my fuge, the first is when I first set it up, then after I ripped out the 2 baffles. You have to look at the sand beds in each to really see what I mean. This silicone is still in there and makes it deceiving. Hope this helps.

 

[hurt]

SMoney-your e-mail is blocked. Drop me a line and I'll help you. I would disagree with farmboys idea. You want the water entering your return pump to come over the top. That will ensure proper flow of water. If it comes under the bottom, and your pump is sitting on the bottom, you will have dead spots above your pump.