santamonica
Member
I don't think so. Otherwise pods would all be drawn to the surface of the display 
Mega-Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover Replaces Skimmer, Refugium, Everything
- Thread starter santamonica
- Start date
santamonica
Member
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Many folks have been asking about the solar setup. Well that fellow is the success story of the day. "Bob the (reef)builder" on the MASA site originally set up this screen that I posted a few weeks ago:
Here are his updates:
9/21: Thank you for the input Santa monica, I will definately be doing this on an expanded basis. I think I will put a three ft tank in the sun and do what you've got on a slightly larger scale. Great simple fix to an ongoing problem by most aquarists.
9/28: The film is plastic and gets wet totally. Its 1m x 1m in size. The water input is also the stand. The strands run diagnally which makes the water flow very nicely. I'm happy with it and will let it stand in the sun. Hopefully get rid of the hair algae problem I have. You should see my actual tank to know why I jumped at this idea. The construction is so easy though. And if it works a quarter as well as Santa says it does, it will be like Christmas.
10/19: I changed this one as the upright design did not get enought sun. I put it on a 45degree angle and that was better:
10/25: It worked like a bomb. Phosphates down to 0.02 - 0.01 ppm (this is on a hanna meter and is very low). Normal test would just read undetectable. [Previously] the best I ever got it to trying every trick in the book including Zeo and Vodka, Lanthinum and many other phosphate removers was 0.03.
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Many folks have been asking about the solar setup. Well that fellow is the success story of the day. "Bob the (reef)builder" on the MASA site originally set up this screen that I posted a few weeks ago:
Here are his updates:
9/21: Thank you for the input Santa monica, I will definately be doing this on an expanded basis. I think I will put a three ft tank in the sun and do what you've got on a slightly larger scale. Great simple fix to an ongoing problem by most aquarists.
9/28: The film is plastic and gets wet totally. Its 1m x 1m in size. The water input is also the stand. The strands run diagnally which makes the water flow very nicely. I'm happy with it and will let it stand in the sun. Hopefully get rid of the hair algae problem I have. You should see my actual tank to know why I jumped at this idea. The construction is so easy though. And if it works a quarter as well as Santa says it does, it will be like Christmas.
10/19: I changed this one as the upright design did not get enought sun. I put it on a 45degree angle and that was better:
10/25: It worked like a bomb. Phosphates down to 0.02 - 0.01 ppm (this is on a hanna meter and is very low). Normal test would just read undetectable. [Previously] the best I ever got it to trying every trick in the book including Zeo and Vodka, Lanthinum and many other phosphate removers was 0.03.
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libog2fish
Member
I really like the idea...
I'm now really considering this style of filtration...cheap and effective...hmmm...I'll continue reading your thread tmw....
thanks for the heads up on this turf method!
I'm now really considering this style of filtration...cheap and effective...hmmm...I'll continue reading your thread tmw....
thanks for the heads up on this turf method!
rotarymagic
Active Member
Originally Posted by SantaMonica
http:///forum/post/2814020
I don't think so. Otherwise pods would all be drawn to the surface of the display
well in a pod breeding tank, you use a flashlight to drawn them to a brine net...
http:///forum/post/2814020
I don't think so. Otherwise pods would all be drawn to the surface of the display
well in a pod breeding tank, you use a flashlight to drawn them to a brine net...
santamonica
Member
And then there is the super-bright light on the scrubber screen itself.
rotarymagic
Active Member
Originally Posted by SantaMonica
http:///forum/post/2814300
And then there is the super-bright light on the scrubber screen itself.
ok fine, I lose.. lol.
http:///forum/post/2814300
And then there is the super-bright light on the scrubber screen itself.
ok fine, I lose.. lol.
santamonica
Member
Update Of The Day: Growth Progression
Blank screens usually start off with a light brown slime of diatoms, unless the water is really high in nitrate and phosphate, in which it might start with dark spots. After a few weeks, green slime or green hair will usually grow. And from that point on, it will be a mix of brown and green, all of which is easily cleaned off. After a few months, however, and if you have enough light (and maybe pulsed flow), you may start seeing real red/brown turf, or possibly bright green turf. You'll know that they are turf because they won't come off no matter what you do, except with a razor blade.
Blank screens usually start off with a light brown slime of diatoms, unless the water is really high in nitrate and phosphate, in which it might start with dark spots. After a few weeks, green slime or green hair will usually grow. And from that point on, it will be a mix of brown and green, all of which is easily cleaned off. After a few months, however, and if you have enough light (and maybe pulsed flow), you may start seeing real red/brown turf, or possibly bright green turf. You'll know that they are turf because they won't come off no matter what you do, except with a razor blade.
hefner413
Active Member
Hey santamonica...
I'm having a hard time finding the CFL Flood light - type bulb locally. Know of a place to find them online? could you pm it to me?
Also, would the regular spiral CFL light work ok instead of the flood-type style? I assume that it just wouldn't project the light onto the screen as well.
Last Question: I was told that a full spectrum light is the one and the same as a 5000K light. Is this true? Some lights just say "5000K", but don't say full spectrum - are they full spectrum just b/c they are 5000K?
I'm having a hard time finding the CFL Flood light - type bulb locally. Know of a place to find them online? could you pm it to me?
Also, would the regular spiral CFL light work ok instead of the flood-type style? I assume that it just wouldn't project the light onto the screen as well.
Last Question: I was told that a full spectrum light is the one and the same as a 5000K light. Is this true? Some lights just say "5000K", but don't say full spectrum - are they full spectrum just b/c they are 5000K?
hefner413
Active Member
Ok, a quick answer to my question...
I found the lighting source that you referenced in the instructions that you emailed to me. I called that lighting supply company and talked to a "bulb expert"... Regarding the flood lights: they said to not use the "R" type lights around a lot of moisture. Instead, you want a "PAR" type light. These will do fine with water exposure. And, No, do not use the regular spiral CFL lights instead of the flood/enclosed type because they also do not do well with a lot of moisture.
The PAR types are found easily online - also at the same site that santamonica referenced. They are just a few dollars more.
And yes, 5000K and 5100K are considered "full spectrum" even if they do not specifically say so.
Here's a pic of the light that I just ordered:
I found the lighting source that you referenced in the instructions that you emailed to me. I called that lighting supply company and talked to a "bulb expert"... Regarding the flood lights: they said to not use the "R" type lights around a lot of moisture. Instead, you want a "PAR" type light. These will do fine with water exposure. And, No, do not use the regular spiral CFL lights instead of the flood/enclosed type because they also do not do well with a lot of moisture.
The PAR types are found easily online - also at the same site that santamonica referenced. They are just a few dollars more.
And yes, 5000K and 5100K are considered "full spectrum" even if they do not specifically say so.
Here's a pic of the light that I just ordered:
stdreb27
Active Member
Originally Posted by Hefner413
http:///forum/post/2818296
Ok, a quick answer to my question...
I found the lighting source that you referenced in the instructions that you emailed to me. I called that lighting supply company and talked to a "bulb expert"... Regarding the flood lights: they said to not use the "R" type lights around a lot of moisture. Instead, you want a "PAR" type light. These will do fine with water exposure. And, No, do not use the regular spiral CFL lights instead of the flood/enclosed type because they also do not do well with a lot of moisture.
The PAR types are found easily online - also at the same site that santamonica referenced. They are just a few dollars more.
And yes, 5000K and 5100K are considered "full spectrum" even if they do not specifically say so.
Here's a pic of the light that I just ordered:
I've had a spiral lamp a few inches from my chaeto for over a year with no problems, it is covered in salt mess and stuff. they are tougher than I ever thought they'd be.
http:///forum/post/2818296
Ok, a quick answer to my question...
I found the lighting source that you referenced in the instructions that you emailed to me. I called that lighting supply company and talked to a "bulb expert"... Regarding the flood lights: they said to not use the "R" type lights around a lot of moisture. Instead, you want a "PAR" type light. These will do fine with water exposure. And, No, do not use the regular spiral CFL lights instead of the flood/enclosed type because they also do not do well with a lot of moisture.
The PAR types are found easily online - also at the same site that santamonica referenced. They are just a few dollars more.
And yes, 5000K and 5100K are considered "full spectrum" even if they do not specifically say so.
Here's a pic of the light that I just ordered:
I've had a spiral lamp a few inches from my chaeto for over a year with no problems, it is covered in salt mess and stuff. they are tougher than I ever thought they'd be.
santamonica
Member
Hef: Ok sent it. The flood type are cfl's. The are just coiled inside. 5000 is fine. 6500k too. There have been zero reports of problems with the lights. Your design looks neat... could fit even more bulbs in there
santamonica
Member
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Text Version:
There should not be any bubbles if a scrubber is set up correctly with smooth flow into the water below. But if you have too many bubbles, make sure the bottom of the screen goes all the way down below the waterline, so there is no waterfall off the bottom, and design the scrubber with an "under over under" divider section like some people use in sumps.
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Text Version:
There should not be any bubbles if a scrubber is set up correctly with smooth flow into the water below. But if you have too many bubbles, make sure the bottom of the screen goes all the way down below the waterline, so there is no waterfall off the bottom, and design the scrubber with an "under over under" divider section like some people use in sumps.
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santamonica
Member
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Results Of The Day:
Corinna on the AC site: "Think we should just call you Santa!! After 3 weeks my screen is forming wine red spots, the pods are having pod parties and making babies, the seahorses are noticeably gaining weight and the water is decidedly 'sparklier'.Thanks."
jfdelacruz on the RP site: "Overfeeding does wonders! i dont know how and why but, the ATS seems to be an extra 20 gallons for my tank because even if I overfeed, nothing in my tank seems to be going bad! water is always crystal clear too! (I do have seagel in there running for about 2 months already) this ATS is a blessing."
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Results Of The Day:
Corinna on the AC site: "Think we should just call you Santa!! After 3 weeks my screen is forming wine red spots, the pods are having pod parties and making babies, the seahorses are noticeably gaining weight and the water is decidedly 'sparklier'.Thanks."
jfdelacruz on the RP site: "Overfeeding does wonders! i dont know how and why but, the ATS seems to be an extra 20 gallons for my tank because even if I overfeed, nothing in my tank seems to be going bad! water is always crystal clear too! (I do have seagel in there running for about 2 months already) this ATS is a blessing."
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santamonica
Member
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Text Version: Nutrients, part 4
Our Tanks: High Inorganic Nutrients, Low Organic Nutrients.
The Ocean: Low Inorganic Nutrients, High Organic Nutrients.
Previous Versions:
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Nutrients1.jpg
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Nutrients2.jpg
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Nutrients3.jpg
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Text Version: Nutrients, part 4
Our Tanks: High Inorganic Nutrients, Low Organic Nutrients.
The Ocean: Low Inorganic Nutrients, High Organic Nutrients.
Previous Versions:
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Nutrients1.jpg
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Nutrients2.jpg
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Nutrients3.jpg
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juggernaut72
New Member
I am a salt newbie.... would you really recommend one of these for me? I want to convert my 75 gallon to salt. I have a fluval 403 and 2 Whisper 60 filters....
I plan on adding a sump and possibly one of these turf algae filters.... do I NEED a protein skimmer?
BTW it will either be a FOWLR or a reef not 100% yet... leaning toward reef...
I plan on adding a sump and possibly one of these turf algae filters.... do I NEED a protein skimmer?
BTW it will either be a FOWLR or a reef not 100% yet... leaning toward reef...
santamonica
Member
Since your SW tank is not set up yet, then yes I'd recommend, even though you are new (if you were converting from a full reef, and you were new, I'd be more cautious). The advantage of starting new is that you can add fish or corals slowly (one per week), and measure your nitrate and phosphate every day. (I recommend Salifert test kits, since I use them and thus I can get a feel for your results.) If you get to the point where your nitrate or phosphate are not "zero" for a whole month, then you may have reached the maximum stocking/feeding level that your particular scrubber can handle. At that time, you can either increase/improve your scrubber, or, add additional filtration devices.
I've not done FW so I'm not familiar with the fluval or whisper, but it's not pertinent since you need to put the scrubber screen either in a bucket/box, or a sump. For the simplest/cheapest setup, you would do a sumpless version, but here are all three versions for comparison:
No you don't need a skimmer starting out. Later, if you have maxed out your scrubber and you don't want to build a bigger scrubber (or add another one), you can add a skimmer if you want to.
I've not done FW so I'm not familiar with the fluval or whisper, but it's not pertinent since you need to put the scrubber screen either in a bucket/box, or a sump. For the simplest/cheapest setup, you would do a sumpless version, but here are all three versions for comparison:
No you don't need a skimmer starting out. Later, if you have maxed out your scrubber and you don't want to build a bigger scrubber (or add another one), you can add a skimmer if you want to.
santamonica
Member
Reminder Of The Day:
If you are home when a power outage occurs, then just like you would manually try to oxygenate your tank, you would also take the screen out and set it in some water (even tap water in the sink.) Problem solved, no damage. It can sit there for two days with no ill effects. You could even put it in a shallow pan of water outside in the sun, where it will probaby grow
If you are not home, however, it becomes a question of which you lose first, your screen or your whole display. Long term (days) you are going to lose both, so we'll look at short term (hours). Somewhere in-between is the question: If you are not home when the power goes out for 2, 3, 4, 5 hours, etc., then how much of your screen will you lose, and how much of the nutrients will be "released" back into the water?
Well, most screens are designed to be up and out-of-contact with the water, so there will be zero "release" of nutrients during the power-outage. And floating screens that stay in contact with the water will not die or release nutrients at all in a short-term outage, because they stay wet. So immediate release of nutirents is not a factor in any situation.
The real question is long term loss of filtering, i.e., how much of the screen will die off during the outage. When you get back home, the screen has been drying for a few hours, but is still moist. What you do is put it in your sink with water and give the dead parts a chance to fall off. Not sure of how much time is needed, but just do a regular cleaning of the screen every few hours until it seems that most of the dead stuff is removed. Doing this in the sink will prevent any nutrients from getting back into the tank. You then put the screen back into operation, and it's no different than if you just did a regular cleaning. And this is the worst case.
I myself unplugged the wrong plug once and left the screen 6 hours with no flow. The fan was still on, but the lights were off at the time. It was all still moist, yet a bit hardened. I did not think at the time to remove the outer layers of dead stuff, so I just put it back into operation right way. What happened was the next day or two there was a very slight increase in N from zero (clear Salifert) to a very slight pink; probably got up to about .5 or 1. P did not ever increase, however. And this was without properly removing the dead stuff. So overall, I don't think power outages are really that eventfull for scrubbers.
If you are home when a power outage occurs, then just like you would manually try to oxygenate your tank, you would also take the screen out and set it in some water (even tap water in the sink.) Problem solved, no damage. It can sit there for two days with no ill effects. You could even put it in a shallow pan of water outside in the sun, where it will probaby grow
If you are not home, however, it becomes a question of which you lose first, your screen or your whole display. Long term (days) you are going to lose both, so we'll look at short term (hours). Somewhere in-between is the question: If you are not home when the power goes out for 2, 3, 4, 5 hours, etc., then how much of your screen will you lose, and how much of the nutrients will be "released" back into the water?
Well, most screens are designed to be up and out-of-contact with the water, so there will be zero "release" of nutrients during the power-outage. And floating screens that stay in contact with the water will not die or release nutrients at all in a short-term outage, because they stay wet. So immediate release of nutirents is not a factor in any situation.
The real question is long term loss of filtering, i.e., how much of the screen will die off during the outage. When you get back home, the screen has been drying for a few hours, but is still moist. What you do is put it in your sink with water and give the dead parts a chance to fall off. Not sure of how much time is needed, but just do a regular cleaning of the screen every few hours until it seems that most of the dead stuff is removed. Doing this in the sink will prevent any nutrients from getting back into the tank. You then put the screen back into operation, and it's no different than if you just did a regular cleaning. And this is the worst case.
I myself unplugged the wrong plug once and left the screen 6 hours with no flow. The fan was still on, but the lights were off at the time. It was all still moist, yet a bit hardened. I did not think at the time to remove the outer layers of dead stuff, so I just put it back into operation right way. What happened was the next day or two there was a very slight increase in N from zero (clear Salifert) to a very slight pink; probably got up to about .5 or 1. P did not ever increase, however. And this was without properly removing the dead stuff. So overall, I don't think power outages are really that eventfull for scrubbers.
stdreb27
Active Member
built mine, will see how it goes. have my fingers crossed that this will finaly knock out my hair algae that is infesting the bottom half of my tank. I used the overflow to the sump to power it, and it is draining directly into the sump.
algae pictures
Not wanting to muddle up this thread I'm going to start another one here.
algae pictures
Not wanting to muddle up this thread I'm going to start another one here.
