Mega-Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover Replaces Skimmer, Refugium, Everything

santamonica

Member
RainerFeyer on the big reef site: "My tank is 75g, 230W T5 lighting, about 8-9 years old now (was FOWLER for 2 years before that). I started a little more than 2 months ago with a vertical ATS. Very happy with it: 3 lights, 20W each, 350GPH flow. I added a horizontal scrubber purely because, by fault of my design, cleaning screens was cumbersome, plus, the size of the scrubber was not preferred. So, been running a verical now for less than one week (aside the horizontal) and all is well so far. Once the Horizontal is well established, I will remove the Vertical. Have been without PS for 6 weeks now! The change in the tank is just amazing! No more algae or cyano, and, the sps which [previously] started dying (probably from nitrates / phosphates/ lack of food) is starting to come back! Thanks for the idea, all of you and especially SM and Worley!"
Jauld on the big reef site: "N and P have been 0 since installation. This is the only filtration I have on my aquarium and I do a 20% water change monthly. this [scrubber] one has been running for nearly 3 months now with 0 problems. When I first set this model up, I accidentally used a metal nozzle that released some bad metals into the aquarium and I lost a frogspawn. After that, I changed out the nozzle and did an 80% water change. been fine ever since. Before I installed this [scrubber], my tank was COMPLETELY filled with algae (almost no rock visible). I let this thing run and after about 6 weeks, the algae started to thin and die in the DT. Then, at 8 weeks, I took the rock out piece by piece and scrubbed all the remaining algae off. 0 algae growth since that in the DT, but the screen grows a TON. I have before and afters pics if you really want to see. I found that the DT [water] will start getting cloudy after about 2-3 weeks IF i don't scrub the algae off the screen every 7-10 days. This is because so much algae is growing on the screen that when it starts to get thick, the algae underneath doesn't get any light and starts to die, releasing the stuff that makes the water quality suffer. However, as long as I clean the screen 3 times a month (takes 3-5 min), the water stays clear as day. This thing is such low maint. and is the sole reason i'm still in this hobby. I was planning to quit since I couldnt get the algae growth under control."
Gowingsgo on the big reef site: "I just added a ATS to my system and have found that it did reduce my nitrates down to 0. from about 5 ppm. I still use my skimmer but have found that I do not have to clean it as much, and that the skim-mate is much darker in color. I have attached a few photos of my new sump. I built my sump the way I did with 5 separate chambers. (1 intake from main tank) (2 ATS) (3 skimmer) (4 fuge with live rock and sand so if I need to I can also put stuff in my sump) (5 return to main tank). I set up the ATS not to remove nitrates but to remove algae from my display tank (and that is exactly what it is doing). I now clean my glass about every 4 days and I used to do it every day. This is not for everyone but I wanted to give it a try and have found that I am very happy with my results. BTW I over feed my fish and corals a lot so I was very happy with the nitrates dropping down to zero. I will most likely keep my skimmer on line. even if it stops skimming. I like knowing that if I get something in my tank that skimmer is there to remove it."
Av8BlueWater on the MD site: "In 2 weeks all my cyano was gone. I didn't have a huge problem , but it was there. In 3 weeks, nitrates were 20-30 (down from 40-60), 4 weeks nitrates = 15, then the first week I notice nitrates = 0 was about 9 weeks total. I started June 24, and Nitrate zero on Sept 2. It was a happy day. My PO4 here lately is .02-.03 (tested with photometer) but I also still run rowaphos. I had an area of GHA about the size of my fist a few months ago, and now it's the size of a pea, but it is still there. I'm also an overfeeder."
MyFishEatYourFish on the MFK site: "update on my tank. no waterchanges since completion of ats over six months ago with multiple thriving sps, polyps, and a softies. [DT] algae growth is slowed, though what algae does grow is much harder than normal because it is corraline and that crappy tough brown stuff. my plants, chaeto and small grape calerpa show almost no growth, unfortunately xenia grows much slower than i would like too. one thing that everyone skimping on waterchanges must know is to keep up on additives, coral vite, calcium, magnesium, stonium, molebdenum essential elements etc. the best part is my nitrates and phosphates are still undetectable!!! thanks santa monica for starting this great thread!
 

coralreefer

Active Member
i need help. i have a scrubber, and it had this really nasty stringy algae growing on it, so i scraped it off and started over. right now there is yellowish-brown algae starting on it, and some slime algae. I don't get what im supposed to do as far as management goes.
any help is appreciated. thanks
one more thing. i have black screen. is that part of the problem?
 

king_neptune

Active Member
yes that is part of the problem, use white.
And as far as stringy nasty algae....if its green its good as far as i know. i love my turf scrubber. i dont run a skimmer in my system. its two months old and the worst water ive seen was .1 and .25 trites/trates after I cleaned both sides in the same week, instead of just one side each week.
 

seawitch

New Member
Hi,
I need to barge in here and ask a question about rubbermaid tubs. I'm getting ready to set up a scrubber for my 55 and the guy at my lfs said to make sure if I use a plastic tub that I get one that is food safe so it doesn't leech stuff into my water. Is this true and if so where do I get a food safe tub?
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by Seawitch
http:///forum/post/3159982
Hi,
I need to barge in here and ask a question about rubbermaid tubs. I'm getting ready to set up a scrubber for my 55 and the guy at my lfs said to make sure if I use a plastic tub that I get one that is food safe so it doesn't leech stuff into my water. Is this true and if so where do I get a food safe tub?
no its not true, all plastics can leach plasticizers when new food safe or not. generally if it smells like plastic really strong, thats plasticisers evaporating. and you'll want to wash and air dry any new the tote a couple times. the food safe ones just mean the plasticiser is non toxic to humans. just keep in mind we can tolerate chlorinated water out animals in our reefs cant. google plastcisers for more info if you would like. but any rubbermade tote would be fine as long as its heavy duty enought to hold the water weight.
 

seawitch

New Member
thanks reefkprz. I'm headed to the hardware store today to get lights and pvc pipe to get this thing going and I'm glad I won't be having to buy a tank for it.
 

santamonica

Member
Screen color doesn't matter. Just screen thickness and roughness. The stringy stuff, as well as any other stuff, is fine... it all does the same filtering. However, as nutrients get lower, growth will be more green. Just clean every 7 days.
 

kristi518

Member
It took me over 3 hours to read this thread, with skipping some long ones of course! Lots of good info, look forward to designing mine.
One question though: If I keep the light confined to the sheet do I have to worry much about algae "downstream" from my scrubber?
I plan to have it mounted with the return dumping into my sump/refuge and don't want to have a lot to clean out of it. I ask beacuse I noticed a fair amount in the bottom of some of the trash can setups in some of the pictures. Thanks again.
 

happyfeet

Member
That all depends on how you set it up Kristi. I set mine up, so algae would grow down there with my Macro Algaes.
If you focus the light to only hit the scrubber then it would only grow there.
 

santamonica

Member
A quote from Eric Borneman on feeding SPS corals:
"Corals with small polyps do not necessarily require more or less light than those with larger polyps. The only real difference between corals with small polyps and corals with large polyps is the size of the prey they can consume. Many small polyped corals, such as Pocillopora damicornis and Stylophora pistillata, are highly photoadaptive and can be found in very deep water. The genus Acropora has more species than any other coral and, as might be expected, can be found in similarly varied locations. Species of Acropora are found in deep water and shallow water, high water flow and low water flow. Furthermore, corals with small polyps have been found in many studies to consume more prey than corals with large polyps (see Borneman's article on feeding corals in Reefkeeping 2002 for pertinent references). The belief that large polyped corals need to be fed more than small polyped corals is just wrong."
[skimmers remove coral food; scrubbers add coral food]
 

seawitch

New Member
Need help please. I have never plumbed before but I am trying to put a scrubber on my 55. It is underneath the tank. I have glued everything together and turned it on. No leaks, everything seems good except I cannot get my flow rate adjusted. I have a turn off valve right below my overflow box to adjust how fast the water comes out of the tank but it either slowly makes the tank to full or it takes too much water out. I have messed and messed with it trying to get it right and not having any luck. What did I do wrong?
 

seawitch

New Member
yes, the overflow box has 2 tubes,one is smaller than the other and I put a ball valve a few inches uderneath so I could control how much water is being siphoned down into the rubbermaid tub.
 

santamonica

Member
I don't think you can control it here. You instead need to control how much your return pump flow, so put the valve there. But this is really a question for the plumbing forums.
 

desertdawg

Member
I agree with SM, you should have your valve on the return line, the amount you pump back will affect the amount into the overflow.
 

santamonica

Member
Excerpts from "Our Coral Reef Aquaria - Our Own Personal Experiments in the effects of Trace Element Toxicity" by Ron Shimek
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-0...ture/index.php
"Trace elements in heightened concentrations are considered to be poisons, nothing more, nothing less, by every researcher examining them."
"With regard to arsenic (when found), copper, nickel, tin, and zinc, the average tank water must be considered as being polluted with heavy metals."
"The water from the average reef tank is clearly dangerous to the organisms put into it [because of too many trace elements]."
"What causes these excessively high trace metal concentrations? Initially, the problem occurs with artificial seawater mixes that have abnormally high concentrations of these materials [...] Also, there is inadequate export of the materials due to any number of causes, but including such factors as poor skimming, inadequate water changes, and inadequate biomass export. Finally, in some cases well-meaning, but ill-advised aquarists often add supplements containing unknown quantities of some trace elements."
"There are NO data that any trace element additions are beneficial, and for any trace element for which there are data, excess amounts are detrimental. No adequate test kits exist for the vast majority of these materials, and few supplements list their ingredients in a trustworthy manner. Consequently, it is prudent not to add any at all to a system."
[Scrubbers remove metals]
 

torvall

New Member
I'm going to build an algae scrubber directly into a large Rubbermaid trash bin. The colors for these things are in some very light-absorbent tints (dark grey, black, etc) so they suck up any reflected light that isn't hitting my screen directly. The screen for the scrubber will be vertical, with lights pointing directly at the screen from both sides.
Now to my question...
Does anyone have an idea as to a safe way to add some reflective material to the inside of this barrel?
I've considered white paint... then scrapped the idea because I don't want to risk any chance of it flaking off and making its way into my display. Should I rig it up and somehow get some sturdy aluminum foil in there? White/silver cloth?
Thanks.
 
Top