My fat horse
- Thread starter meowzer
- Start date
meowzer
Moderator
Originally Posted by Rykna
http:///forum/post/2894297
Awesome!!!! I like the gorg too. More PICS
That gorg is soooo hard to care for, I am always blowing algae off it, and never know if I am feeding it enough..
http:///forum/post/2894297
Awesome!!!! I like the gorg too. More PICS
That gorg is soooo hard to care for, I am always blowing algae off it, and never know if I am feeding it enough..
meowzer
Moderator
Originally Posted by T316
http:///forum/post/2894313
Yeah, I think it's just the pic that's making him look like that. As long as he's eating....
I think that one may be the girl....the first pic of piggy (lol) was in the light, and he poses....skinny is camera shy
http:///forum/post/2894313
Yeah, I think it's just the pic that's making him look like that. As long as he's eating....
I think that one may be the girl....the first pic of piggy (lol) was in the light, and he poses....skinny is camera shy
t316
Active Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/2894316
I think that one may be the girl....the first pic of piggy (lol) was in the light, and he poses....skinny is camera shy
Sorry, I should have known that the girl would be named "skinny"....
http:///forum/post/2894316
I think that one may be the girl....the first pic of piggy (lol) was in the light, and he poses....skinny is camera shy
Sorry, I should have known that the girl would be named "skinny"....
mx#28
Active Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/2894311
That gorg is soooo hard to care for, I am always blowing algae off it, and never know if I am feeding it enough..
Take it out of the light and supply decent flow to prevent algae growth. Flow is also important to the feeding - I think Ron Shimeks recent study suggested that diodogorgia ate best with flow somewhere between 3 to 6 inches/sec. Some studies suggest these (and other nonphoto corals) won't eat outside of a certain flow range. I say watch and see.
Diodogorgia have fairly large polyps - you should feed somewhat large zooplankton (300-800 microns) at least a few times per day.
http:///forum/post/2894311
That gorg is soooo hard to care for, I am always blowing algae off it, and never know if I am feeding it enough..
Take it out of the light and supply decent flow to prevent algae growth. Flow is also important to the feeding - I think Ron Shimeks recent study suggested that diodogorgia ate best with flow somewhere between 3 to 6 inches/sec. Some studies suggest these (and other nonphoto corals) won't eat outside of a certain flow range. I say watch and see.
Diodogorgia have fairly large polyps - you should feed somewhat large zooplankton (300-800 microns) at least a few times per day.
meowzer
Moderator
Take it out of the light??? This gorg is in the tank with the dual satellite 130watt pc lights. I feed marine snow, and kent marin zooplex...I just read the bottle and it says ...animal size is approximately 800 microns...is that sufficient for it?...I just added a koralia 1 to this tank, and I have a cascade canister with the top flow bar for flow.
Right now I am battling a cyano problem in this tank...So I am trying to be careful of excess nutrients.
Right now I am battling a cyano problem in this tank...So I am trying to be careful of excess nutrients.
mx#28
Active Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/2894332
Take it out of the light??? This gorg is in the tank with the dual satellite 130watt pc lights. I feed marine snow, and kent marin zooplex...I just read the bottle and it says ...animal size is approximately 800 microns...is that sufficient for it?...I just added a koralia 1 to this tank, and I have a cascade canister with the top flow bar for flow.
Right now I am battling a cyano problem in this tank...So I am trying to be careful of excess nutrients.
Yes, if you're having trouble with algael overgrowth (which can impede / kill the gorgonian), then take it out of the light. Diodogorgia is COMPLETELY nonphotosynthetic and the algea will not grow without light. Problem solved.
I'm not a big fan of bottled food - often deemed "pollution in a bottle". I think the percentage of good stuff to sewage is too low, etc. I like to hatch live baby brine shrimp - they and their eggs are good meals, as well as frozen cyclop-eeze, frozen rotifers, etc. I've seen at least one experimental tank FULL of Diodogorgia, that was healthy and growing that was only fed cyclop-eeze, I believe.
http:///forum/post/2894332
Take it out of the light??? This gorg is in the tank with the dual satellite 130watt pc lights. I feed marine snow, and kent marin zooplex...I just read the bottle and it says ...animal size is approximately 800 microns...is that sufficient for it?...I just added a koralia 1 to this tank, and I have a cascade canister with the top flow bar for flow.
Right now I am battling a cyano problem in this tank...So I am trying to be careful of excess nutrients.
Yes, if you're having trouble with algael overgrowth (which can impede / kill the gorgonian), then take it out of the light. Diodogorgia is COMPLETELY nonphotosynthetic and the algea will not grow without light. Problem solved.
I'm not a big fan of bottled food - often deemed "pollution in a bottle". I think the percentage of good stuff to sewage is too low, etc. I like to hatch live baby brine shrimp - they and their eggs are good meals, as well as frozen cyclop-eeze, frozen rotifers, etc. I've seen at least one experimental tank FULL of Diodogorgia, that was healthy and growing that was only fed cyclop-eeze, I believe.
mx#28
Active Member
Here's part of it. Any other link would go against SWF.com, but this should get you started.
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...opeJune6th.flv
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...opeJune6th.flv
meowzer
Moderator
Do you mean this type of food, the frozen I guess...you say you don't like liquid...I order my frozen food from drs...since swf does not sell it.....
I have my lights off half the time now, and have put in a phosphate pad in hte filter...will do water changes as soon as my ro/di unit gets here...Friday or Saturday I hope...of course first I have to filter, and then mix...and then aerate...
I have my lights off half the time now, and have put in a phosphate pad in hte filter...will do water changes as soon as my ro/di unit gets here...Friday or Saturday I hope...of course first I have to filter, and then mix...and then aerate...
meowzer
Moderator
Or this???
If I have to place an order for frozen food, I want to be sure I get what I need. I have to have it shipped so I usually order a lot...
I'm thinking of: PE Mysis shrimp, baby brine, angel & butterfly diet, rotifers (if I can figure out what they are), cyclops (cubes)
Any other suggestions???? for fish, seahorses, anemone, corals....
Thanks
If I have to place an order for frozen food, I want to be sure I get what I need. I have to have it shipped so I usually order a lot...
I'm thinking of: PE Mysis shrimp, baby brine, angel & butterfly diet, rotifers (if I can figure out what they are), cyclops (cubes)
Any other suggestions???? for fish, seahorses, anemone, corals....
Thanks
mx#28
Active Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/2895251
Thank you...maybe you can tell me what a rotifer is??? Also what do you do with the brine eggs..it doesn't say....I will be ordering for delivery next week, so any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
All three foods that I listed (rotifers included) are zooplankton - ie very small animals that drift around in the water and get eaten. That's not the Websters definition, but I think it's good.
I hatch the brine. Use google, or search on this site, if you're interested in hatching them. I give them about 48 hours to hatch, so I have two alternating systems set up - one for each day. I also use a few drop of bleach in the hatchery to decapsulate (among other things) the eggs so that the unhatched eggs are also edible.
http:///forum/post/2895251
Thank you...maybe you can tell me what a rotifer is??? Also what do you do with the brine eggs..it doesn't say....I will be ordering for delivery next week, so any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
All three foods that I listed (rotifers included) are zooplankton - ie very small animals that drift around in the water and get eaten. That's not the Websters definition, but I think it's good.
I hatch the brine. Use google, or search on this site, if you're interested in hatching them. I give them about 48 hours to hatch, so I have two alternating systems set up - one for each day. I also use a few drop of bleach in the hatchery to decapsulate (among other things) the eggs so that the unhatched eggs are also edible.