My own newbie thread
- Thread starter iidylii
- Start date
iidylii
Active Member
so from what im reading...its fairly normal for a 1/2 to 2 gallons of evaporation from your sump...ive had my system running 14 days and have lost 15 gallons of evap...it just seems like I will be buying a ton of DI resin and RO filters to keep up with this...I know on the resin package it says when your resin turns brown its time to change it...ive made 30 gallons of water and its already starting to convert to brown in some spots...I don't know how in the world I will ever afford my RODI system if I have to change so frequently...is there a gallon amount that any of you know of which is typical of your RODI needing changing? I realize each one will be different I was just looking for a very vague number lol... While we are on the subject is it typical to change the rest of the 3 canister filters when the DI goes bad?
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pegasus
Well-Known Member
If your DI resin is properly packed, it should turn brown from the bottom and then move up as it's depleted. It's not unusual for it to start changing color right away, as even the best RO membrane is only going to have a rejection rate of (up to) 95%. This means some nasties are going to get through. This is why DI is so important... to finish cleaning what the previous filters can't. Depletion rates vary depending on the quality and capacity of the RO membrane, as well as the quality of the source water. Naturally, the more contaminated your water is, the faster it will clog your filters and deplete your DI resin. You should check out the DI refills at BRS. They're relatively inexpensive, and two bags will normally fill three canisters.
Color-change DI resin will usually give 0 TDS even after it changes color. The best way to know when it's time to change the resin is to install an inline TDS meter on the line coming out of your DI canister. Since this is the water that needs to be monitored, you can get by with a single meter.
Color-change DI resin will usually give 0 TDS even after it changes color. The best way to know when it's time to change the resin is to install an inline TDS meter on the line coming out of your DI canister. Since this is the water that needs to be monitored, you can get by with a single meter.
iidylii
Active Member
thanks Pegasus...
I just learned that GFO filtration isn't a full time thing? I thought it was kind of like carbon where you just use it all the time? so im guessing if your phosphates aren't out of whack there isn't a real need for GFO? Im also hearing that carbon is also a waste of time in many cases and that water changes are just as effective? Just wondering because I have a phosban 150 and 550 and didn't want to just be wasting money with unneeded media?
I honestly do try and do some research on my questions before I post on here to you guys...lol I just trust your answers a lot more and plus the answers seem more specific to my needs I guess lol
I just learned that GFO filtration isn't a full time thing? I thought it was kind of like carbon where you just use it all the time? so im guessing if your phosphates aren't out of whack there isn't a real need for GFO? Im also hearing that carbon is also a waste of time in many cases and that water changes are just as effective? Just wondering because I have a phosban 150 and 550 and didn't want to just be wasting money with unneeded media?
I honestly do try and do some research on my questions before I post on here to you guys...lol I just trust your answers a lot more and plus the answers seem more specific to my needs I guess lol
iidylii
Active Member
So pretty soon I am thinking about ordering a cuc...does anyone have any advice on what to and not to consider for the crew? I only ask this because with my last tank that I had It seemed whenever I would buy any astrea snails they would fall on there backs and then the damn hermits would devour them everytime so that seemed like a big waste of money each time...however I did love getting turbo snails and I also had a few bumble bee snails that lasted forever...like I said are there any types that you guys typically stay away from for whatever reason?
flower
Well-Known Member
I keep no hermits, and no astrae snails either, if a snail is too stupid to turn themselves upright, I don't know how the species even continues. Instead I get a combo of brittle or serpent stars, and nassarous snails, they will feed on the wasted food that falls into the rocks, they are meat eaters... Nerite, turbo, and Cerith snails will keep the algae in check.
iidylii
Active Member
Lol flower...poor stupid snails lol...GREAT answer though thanks I will be getting a combo platter of the above mentioned
iidylii
Active Member
And there's a safe weld on?
iidylii
Active Member
thank you guys for answering my questions all the time...hope im not getting on anyones nerves im just curious and would rather get the right information rather then just do something without any knowledge of it...
I was also wondering...I know there are places that have great invert deals when you create your own packages...inverts are one of my favorite things and like I said when you get such great package deals its hard not to go a little crazy for the prices they offer...what I was wondering was...I would like to get some of the following critters serpeant star, brittle star, sally light foot, porcelain crab, turbo snail, coral banded shrimp, and an urchin of some sort along with some assorted hermits and snails...in my eyes these types of critters seem to be fed by just left overs and such that make it to the sand bed...seeing as how I will only have a couple fish in the beginning with all these inverts will they be ok as far as food to eat or can I just give a little extra fish food?
I was also wondering...I know there are places that have great invert deals when you create your own packages...inverts are one of my favorite things and like I said when you get such great package deals its hard not to go a little crazy for the prices they offer...what I was wondering was...I would like to get some of the following critters serpeant star, brittle star, sally light foot, porcelain crab, turbo snail, coral banded shrimp, and an urchin of some sort along with some assorted hermits and snails...in my eyes these types of critters seem to be fed by just left overs and such that make it to the sand bed...seeing as how I will only have a couple fish in the beginning with all these inverts will they be ok as far as food to eat or can I just give a little extra fish food?
jay0705
Well-Known Member
Ok 2 iffys on your list. The sally light foot and the coral banded. Both can get big and both can eat your fish. I hear more aggression stories w coral banded tho. Snails and crabs. You can do both but hermits will whack snails for shells. I like emerald crabs.your urchin and stars should be np. If you are daring you could try a crusher mantis shrimp not a spearer. They will eat hermits tho. Also maybe a few feather dusters
iidylii
Active Member
Ok so u know how I was talking about building some chambers in my sump...well in order to do that I would of course have to drain my sump first...I would be absolutely thrilled if u guys might have a way that I could do this without draining the sump..?like maybe some sort of bond that will work under water? Please tell me there's gotta be something :~}