my tank is shocking me

tangs rule

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raptor72 http:///forum/thread/386047/my-tank-is-shocking-me#post_3389469
If I wanted to check mine with a multi tester, what setting would I put it on?
Most meters have both a symbol and rating for AC voltage - it usually looks like one of these:
ACV 200
AC 200
~ 200v
~200AC v
The numerical value could read 125, 200, 250, 500, or 750 (for example). the ~ sign means AC (alternating current) voltage. this is the ONLY setting you need. Wall outlet voltage is around 120 volts AC, so most cheep meters start with like 150-200volts AC as the lowest setting so set it to somthing close to ACV 120
FYI the DC (direct current volt) symbol is - (DCv) and numerical values of 20, 50, 100, 250 (for example). There also some meters that'll read current (amps) and typically that"s labled DCA or ACA. You dont
want these amp settings for checking your tank. Most meters also check resistance (kinda a horseshoe symbol or omega looking thingy) and the numbers will be followed by a (k) - you don't want these settings either for checking your tank stray volt.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangs rule http:///forum/thread/386047/my-tank-is-shocking-me/20#post_3389525
Most meters have both a symbol and rating for AC voltage - it usually looks like one of these:
ACV 200
AC 200
~ 200v
~200AC v
The numerical value could read 125, 200, 250, 500, or 750 (for example). the ~ sign means AC (alternating current) voltage. this is the ONLY setting you need. Wall outlet voltage is around 120 volts AC, so most cheep meters start with like 150-200volts AC as the lowest setting so set it to somthing close to ACV 120
FYI the DC (direct current volt) symbol is - (DCv) and numerical values of 20, 50, 100, 250 (for example). There also some meters that'll read current (amps) and typically that"s labled DCA or ACA. You dont
want these amp settings for checking your tank. Most meters also check resistance (kinda a horseshoe symbol or omega looking thingy) and the numbers will be followed by a (k) - you don't want these settings either for checking your tank stray volt.
I knew somebody would know....LOL..Me??? I just stick the little prob in the water, if the needle moves I have problems.
 

king_neptune

Active Member
Its a heater. 90% of the time its a heater.
If you checked and didnt get any symptoms...its a heater that wasnt on at the time.
I hate getting zapped. You especially notice it when you have a small cut on your finger. The salt mixed with electricity really gets you.
GFI's are great...I just happen to hate mine. Im on a concrete floor...and that makes the GFI a hair trigger. Im building a new aquarium shed in a couple weeks. Gonna have it with rubber floor mats on top of a wooden floor, less chance of even a miniscule current traveling down your body.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangs rule http:///forum/thread/386047/my-tank-is-shocking-me/20#post_3389525
Most meters have both a symbol and rating for AC voltage - it usually looks like one of these:
ACV 200
AC 200
~ 200v
~200AC v
The numerical value could read 125, 200, 250, 500, or 750 (for example). the ~ sign means AC (alternating current) voltage. this is the ONLY setting you need. Wall outlet voltage is around 120 volts AC, so most cheep meters start with like 150-200volts AC as the lowest setting so set it to somthing close to ACV 120
FYI the DC (direct current volt) symbol is - (DCv) and numerical values of 20, 50, 100, 250 (for example). There also some meters that'll read current (amps) and typically that"s labled DCA or ACA. You dont
want these amp settings for checking your tank. Most meters also check resistance (kinda a horseshoe symbol or omega looking thingy) and the numbers will be followed by a (k) - you don't want these settings either for checking your tank stray volt.
Actually alot of meters usually start out with either 5v or 20v. You are correct though that he should start testing with the meter on 200v A/C. And A/C volts is typically marked with this symbol (V~). I would try it there first and if you don't get a reading then move down to the next lower voltage on the meter (if it has one) and see if you get a reading. I check my tank by simply touching one probe to something metal like the housing on my light fixture and the other probe in the water. For voltage it doesn't matter which color probe goes where. If you do that though just be careful not to touch the fixture with your skin since if there is voltage in there you may get another shock. If your meter is sensitive enough then the odds are you will get at least some type of reading for micro volts. So don't freak out if you see something like -180 v or something along those lines. That's a good thing.
 
P

polizei

Guest
Mine has been doing this for months and I just found the problem. It was indeed a heater. I put an extra heater in my sump for the winter and its apparently got a short. Problem solved!
 
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