Need advice for a saltwater newbie

spanko

Active Member
First off let me say this is not a freshwater type hobby that you have gotten into. I say this because saltwater upkeep IS expensive.
Water, light, flow and filtration both mechanical, chemical and biological are of the utmost importance. And they must be done correctly in order to maintain a beautiful tank which I am sure is the outcome you were looking for when you got into it.
Now on to your problems.
The red algae you see is actually a bacteria, Cyanobacter. You would do well to use the search button at the top of the page to do some research into why you have it and how to correct the environment that it is thriving in.
What you have is an excess amount of nutrient in the system feeding the cyano. The bubbles are nothing more than a gas that forms under the bacteria. Here is my take on controlling and preventing future occurances.
Red Slime (Cyano Bacteria)
Cyano grows on top of nutrient rich areas of low flow. There are a number of things that need to be correct or possibly corrected to combat this without the use of chemical additives. The biggest thing is to get rid of the extra nutrients.
1.Evaluate your feeding. If you are feeding more than can be eaten in about 1-2 minutes it is too much and the remainder of it is falling to the rock and sand and becoming nutrient.
2.Evaluate your flow. If you have areas in the tank where there is little to no flow this can be corrected by adding power heads or repositioning the ones you already have. You don’t need to create sand storms just have water moving over the area to keep detritus suspended in the water column for removal by your filter – skimmer.
3.Evaluate your water changes. The solution to pollution is dilution! You want to continually remove unneeded nutrients as well as replace those things that are used by the system. 10% weekly is a good change schedule. Some do 20% every other week and some vary the schedule from there, but a good start is 10% per week.
4.Evaluate your lighting schedule. About 10 hours of daylight is all that is needed.
5.If you have a Cyano outbreak do the above 4 items and:
a.At water change time siphon off the Cyano first. It will come up easily almost like a blanket.
b.After siphoning stir the affected areas a little to suspend any detritus for the water change and filtering - skimming removal.
c.Use a turkey baster on the rockwork now and at every water change in the future to again suspend the detritus for removal by the water change and your filtering – skimming.
Keeping nutrient levels low to non-existent will help to avoid Cyano outbreaks and any algae outbreaks as well as keep your tank and you happy happy.
Hope that helps.
Now on flow in your tank, for a 29 gallon biocube I would recommend that you get the following.
A Rio 6hf pump to replace the stock pump that is in the back chamber returning water to your display. The stock pump is 243 gallons per hour and the Rio will supply 350 gph with less wattage used and that will translate into more flow to the display and less heat transfer from the pump. About $30, but not necessary right now get it as you have the funds.
For in tank I would get (2) Koralia #1. One on the top left back corner pointed towards the front center and one on the back right corner pointed towards the front center. What you are trying to do here is create a randomized flow pattern that will keep detritus (fish poop, uneaten food, etc) suspended so that your filter can remove it.
Long post here I will continue.
 

spanko

Active Member
Here I am continuing.
The filter pad you have in the tank is a constraint to the system. It clogs easily restriction flow to the back chambers which reduces its effectiveness. Take the filter out of the tank. You can see it is a black plastic frame with four sections on it. Remove the outer layer of white material over a trash can with a razor knife or something else sharp. As you do it you will see little pcs. of carbon fall out, hence the over the trash can suggestion. When you have all the white stuff and the carbon taken off you have a frame with four sections in it. Since you have the freswater tank you should be familiar with filter floss. if you have some fill each of those chambers with some and return the frame to the tank. Then each day take it out, discard the floss and put new into it. If you are buying the fish store floss stop it and go to a craft store or fabric store and purchase Polyester fiber fill. It is so much more inexpensive and the same thing. Just make sure it does not say it has anything else in it, bactericide etc.
No UV sterilizer, and since funds are tight no protein skimmer right now.
On the water you have to decide that you need to put good water in the tank and you have to do that now. You cannot skimp here. Even if you can go to a local WalMart or sometimes grocery stores will have a machine where you can fill up jugs with RO water. Or you can purchase distilled water. You have to get to a good at least 10% water change schedule, I like 20%, to get the nutrient out of the system. If you are mixing your own water I hope you have looked at some of the instructions on the site here to do that correctly. The folks on the other site are correct that it is fairly common for a new tank to get cyano, however they did not in my opinion go far enough into looking at your particular concerns and helping you to get into a good husbandry schedule to rid your tank of it and do what you can to keep it away. That includes additional equipment outlined above also.
These are my opinions and experiences with my 29 biocube. There are some other modifications I can help you with down the road as I too have a 29 biocube that has been running for 2 years now.
 

mecc

Member
Ok I haven't used that filter that came with the tank, the sales person who also showed me the set up at the store said it's not nessesary to have it in. so that hasn't even come out of the wrapper. I asked at the time of my tank purchase what then filters out the waste? he said the live rock will take care of all that. the more porus the rock the better.
so I'll be going to walmart to find this floss stuff and modify the filter I got with the tank.
Feeding I have been feeding every other day this stuff called BlackJack Reef Crack.(you can google it if you havn't heard if it they have thier own website) It's a frozen food I put it in a small container take it to the tank and use the saltwater from the tank to thaw it out real good. I make sure to break up large pieces so it's easier for the fish to eat. I then slowly add a little at a time. but maybe what's happening is what's getting missed by the fish is what is feeding the Cyano. I'll try to cut it into even smaller pieces.
One Person I tanked to suggested turning off the powerheads for feeding is this a good way of thinking or not?
I knew going into this side of the hobby it would be costly. I read as much as my brain could take prior to getting this set up. When I was told by a sales person who claims to have 9 salt tanks at home and listening to him talk with other customers ( yes I eavsdropped alot
lol)I was confident that what he was telling me what I needed with the tank was for the most part correct.
I talked with him over the course of the summer here and there about salt setups with the Bio Cube and he always seemed to be consistant with what he was telling me and not just trying to make a sale. however I'm sure I missed many things or may mis heard, or forgot. I knew going into this I was going to expeirence problems, but I knew if I could do it in the small tank than I could keep any size just like in freshwater. This is just a small set back I feel once this gets corrected I'll be good to go
 

spanko

Active Member
You are right, just a small set back here. Get into some real good husbandry and you will do fine with this tank. You are also correct that if you can do it in the small tank, bigger will be easier. The reason this though is that the more water volume you have the more that problems become diluted. In the smaller volume, it is considerably more work as when things change they change quickly.
Water changes are one of the most effective ways to deal with any nutrient and chemical concerns as they dilute the problems or add the necessary chemicals back.
Keep posting here and let us see how you are doing. If you want to take a look at my tank here is a link.
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/332430/spankos-bio-cube-what-in-posidens-name-is-he-up-to-now
 

mecc

Member
Update to the tank
went to Walmart and they have the 100% polyester stuff in 15foot rolls for Christmas "Snow" there is no glitter or anything like that on for $3.00 a bag ( I'll be getting more since it's easy to cut into shapes)
I looked for the filter I got with the tank, alas must have been thrown out
So I did the next best thing. The plastic plate the fits in the top section of the second compartment I had taken out ( it sounds like some one is constantly peeing lol
) It put it back in and cut and folded over some of the filler I got. I then took a turkey baster and skimmed off the stuff floating in the tank ( glad I had extra salt water) I tried sucking up the stuff on the rocks a bit was able to get some off, Was running out of my extra salt that I had. I checked the filler I put in nearly an hour and a half later and it was already collecting some junk.
The wife is going to pick up some salt tomorrow, since I know I can get R/O water from Walmart.
I was told some advise at the time I was getting my Live rock from my LFS that I found interesting don't know how accurate this is so I'm asking.
I was told that if you mix half Instant Ocean salt(1/4 cup per gal) with half Oceanic Salt(1/4 cup per Gallon) in to the water you will get better results due to what one is missing the other has for content. Is this accurate or is this someone trying to get a sale?
What salt is recommended since I have been getting mine from the LFS premixed?
 

meowzer

Moderator
The polyester stuff is sold in the craft department...it is called Poly-fil (what I use)...comes in a roll.....I believe it is also called batting.
IDK about the salt thing....I uses Instant Ocean, and have for over a year with no issues...
 

mecc

Member
well here are some updated pic from this morning, it's not 100% but it's better than yesterday! Notice in pic #2 there is nothing floating on the surface yay!
3rd pic is the filler pad i cut and placed and what it has collected overnight.
I never thought of using that thanks!



 

spanko

Active Member
okay here is another little mod you can do to increase flow through the back chamber. In the last picture see how the wall between chamber #1 and chamber #2 has a low place on the left where the water flows through and a high spot on the right side?
Take a new razor knife and cut the wall all the way across so it is the same level. This will allow more water to flow through and utilize the full width of your pad.
P.S. Shut the pump of first so you are not fighting the water.

P.S.S. Are you using the bio balls under the tray in the middle chamber?
 

mecc

Member
I was told not to use bioballs that they wern't good for salt water tanks, they could potentially release bad things like amonia back into the tank from the bacteria. Don't know how true/not true I didn't take the chance with it.
 

spanko

Active Member
Not true. Bioballs are a good medium to allow growth of nitrifying bacteria. The only real problem with them is that they do need regular maintenance to keep them functioning correctly. There is some chemistry involved here but that is not important for now. Not having them in the tank is okay. The progress you are making here is good!!!
I don't know how much you have read on the keeping of a marine tank but I would suggest a book for you.
The Nano Reef Handbook by Chris Brightwell. Doing some reading will help you to understand better what is involved, and to help you decide when things just don't sound right from information you are getting from the fish store, here or other sites, and generate some more questions maybe.
 

mecc

Member
Well I picked up a Koralia #2 from a LFS yesterday, I think however that it kicked up some junk that ended up killing off the six line wrasse, the zebra goby is still swimming good. was that too big of a powerhead?
 

spanko

Active Member
Originally Posted by Mecc
http:///forum/post/3179460
Well I picked up a Koralia #2 from a LFS yesterday, I think however that it kicked up some junk that ended up killing off the six line wrasse, the zebra goby is still swimming good. was that too big of a powerhead?
Not to big IMO. Just gotta make sure it is aimed correctly, not at the sandbed where it is blowing sand around. I would suggest the rear left corner where the output of the stock pump is and point it towards the front right corner.
 
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