Need advice on heater and cooler operation

flower

flower

Well-Known Member
This is for my seahorse tank that needs to remain between 72 and 77 degrees. I basically want the water temp set at 75 (right in the middle). The heater is a backup to assure the tank won't get too cold. I want to run my cooler off of the Fluval canister filter that I have. Because the cooler wants the water filtered before use, and my sump is out of room for another pump, plus I don't want a utility pump in the DT.
My sump is too small to fit a 15 inch heater, and I can't put a heater in the DT, so I was thinking of an inline heater that also attaches to the output of the canister filter. That makes two gizmo's on the same line....I want to set the heater for 73 degrees to assure the tank does not drop below that mark and I want the cooler set at 75 to assure it won't climb beyond that point.
I was planning to attach the inline heater after the cooler hose leading out to the tank. Will that work? I'm thinking the heater won't engage unless the water is colder than 75 and the cooler won't engage unless the water is warmer than 73.
I hope this makes sense, and if there is some problem I'm not seeing...help PLEASE.
 
S

saxman

Guest
Does your chiller have a built-in dual stage controller? If it has a place to plug the heater into it, then it does. This means that the same controller that chills the tank will also heat it if necessary. Set the heater a few degrees higher, say 80* and let the chiller do the rest.
The inline heaters work OK...I still have one someplace. Of course, it may be cheaper just to get a smaller heater, esp. since it's "insurance" anyhow. I realize I live in S. CA, but I never do the "3W/gal" thing with heaters. 15" is kinda overkill IMHO.
I've used canisters to drive chillers before, and it works well, altho I usually don't run any media because I want to start with more flow as a chiller does add "head". If you have sufficient LR in the setup, that's how I'd go.
HTH
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/388606/need-advice-on-heater-and-cooler-operation#post_3428024
Does your chiller have a built-in dual stage controller? If it has a place to plug the heater into it, then it does. This means that the same controller that chills the tank will also heat it if necessary. Set the heater a few degrees higher, say 80* and let the chiller do the rest.
The inline heaters work OK...I still have one someplace. Of course, it may be cheaper just to get a smaller heater, esp. since it's "insurance" anyhow. I realize I live in S. CA, but I never do the "3W/gal" thing with heaters. 15" is kinda overkill IMHO.
I've used canisters to drive chillers before, and it works well, altho I usually don't run any media because I want to start with more flow as a chiller does add "head". If you have sufficient LR in the setup, that's how I'd go.
HTH
Thanks for the reply....I don't know of any place to plug a heater into it, it's an Aquaeruro USA brand, so I'm guessing, no...
The 305 fluval is not the main filter, I have a sump...it's mostly for the extra flow (spray bar) and the easiest way to rig the chiller. I have a small 250w titanium heater and it runs 24/7 because it's too small. The chiller instructions says it should have filtered water...so I will run some white filter media in the canister, nothing fancy.
My room stays plenty cool enough in the summer, but with cold weather approaching the furnace will kick on and that means the tank will get warm too. I'm trying to head off any issues that might arise.
Can the method I posted work?...both gizmos on the same output hose?
 
S

saxman

Guest
I'm guessing you have either the 1/13 hp or 1/10 hp chiller, and there IS indeed a dual-stage controller on it (unless the manual I just read online is lying). Look on the right side of the chiller, and right next to the power switch and fuse, there's an outlet. THAT is where you plug in your heater. Once this is done, the chiller becomes the thermostat for both pieces of equipment. The reason this is good is because this makes it impossible for both pieces of equipment to be on at once so they don't work against each other.
To be honest, I don't know of anybody who prefilters their water for a chiller, as they're usually driven by a pump, not a canister, but if ya want to do so, that's fine (just keep up on the maintenance of the canister).
You can run both pieces of equipment on the same line, but you'll likely take a hit on flow. If the flow loss is acceptable, then you're good to go.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
I agree have never heard of the chiller feed being filtered.....Personally I wouldn't rely on the canister to feed the chiller....What's the flow rate required by the chiller?
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/388606/need-advice-on-heater-and-cooler-operation#post_3428143
I'm guessing you have either the 1/13 hp or 1/10 hp chiller, and there IS indeed a dual-stage controller on it (unless the manual I just read online is lying). Look on the right side of the chiller, and right next to the power switch and fuse, there's an outlet. THAT is where you plug in your heater. Once this is done, the chiller becomes the thermostat for both pieces of equipment. The reason this is good is because this makes it impossible for both pieces of equipment to be on at once so they don't work against each other.
To be honest, I don't know of anybody who prefilters their water for a chiller, as they're usually driven by a pump, not a canister, but if ya want to do so, that's fine (just keep up on the maintenance of the canister).
You can run both pieces of equipment on the same line, but you'll likely take a hit on flow. If the flow loss is acceptable, then you're good to go.
Saxman, Thank you!
I had no idea I could do that....fantastic. I think it was Meowzer who uses her canister with her chiller. TeresaQ said to just put a little filter over the intake of the pump. My 20g tall sump tank is full with the skimmer, the phosban reactor pump, a small refugium, and return pump. By using the canister, I can get extra flow and run the chiller and now the inline heater, saving more space. You have been a big help. I misplaced the book and didn't think to look it up online..duh
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Flower I do not filter my water and I have the same type chiller.....I use a small accela pump to run it....BUT I keep the pump in the back compartmetn of the nano-cube.....I bet you could find a place to hide one
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///t/388606/need-advice-on-heater-and-cooler-operation#post_3428164
Flower I do not filter my water and I have the same type chiller.....I use a small accela pump to run it....BUT I keep the pump in the back compartmetn of the nano-cube.....I bet you could find a place to hide one
I don't know who told me then that they use the chiller with the canister...Too many different people doing different things and I can't keep up.
I have a regular utility pump but no more room in the sump....all the heaters for my size tank are too long as well, I don't want a heater in with the horses, the canister will work. The instructions say to filter the tank water before it goes into the chiller. Teresa said she uses little filters and she cuts an x and slides it over the pump intake...If I had room for another pump that would be great. I figured just that white filter material will be fine to use in it, and I get to use the extra spray bar as a bonus. I odered the inline heater and I have the fluval just sitting in the garage.
I already have cyano in my SH tank, not enough flow...I made the holes big enough on my returns but it cut down on the spray bar output...just not enough push. I may have to get another power head, this tank is much bigger than the 30g...the shape is also a challenge to get the flow right.
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///t/388606/need-advice-on-heater-and-cooler-operation#post_3428175
you already have cyano in hte new tank?

Not a big thick mat of it, but I see red on the sand and on the rocks, the snails have been keeping the rocks cleared off in about three days time but by then a new patch springs up...I admit the last time I thought I had cyano it was red algae turf but not in the sand...it's cyano. All over the top feeding station is red and the snails clean it off and it grows right back. The tank is cold too so I think that slows it down a bit. The front plants hardly move so I know it's the flow added with the wasted food from the horses.
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I wish cranberry could join this thread, she has/had 14 tanks going at once and six of them required chillers. She would probably know a lot about it.
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/388606/need-advice-on-heater-and-cooler-operation#post_3428161
I agree have never heard of the chiller feed being filtered.....Personally I wouldn't rely on the canister to feed the chiller....What's the flow rate required by the chiller?
Hey...I missed your post.
I might be able to hide the pump on the column shelf behind the rocks up at the top of the tank....I wonder..... do you guys think it will put out enough force to attach a spray bar to the output of the chiller?????? The tank is right next to my bedroom dresser. I could set the chiller on top and not lose head. The chiller has a flow rate of 200-315 GPH....my pump is rated 300 GPH
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
The primary thing is supplying the chiller with the correct flow. Honestly don't think you'll get much out of the flow bar.
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/388606/need-advice-on-heater-and-cooler-operation#post_3428216
The primary thing is supplying the chiller with the correct flow. Honestly don't think you'll get much out of the flow bar.
I assumed the 200 to 315 gph meant that I needed a pump with that flow rate...I hope I was right, can you confirm that, or am I wrong?
I will let the the spray bar go on the chiller...I need another power head anyway and if I feel the need, I can attach a drilled PVC bar on it for a spray bar.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
As long as the canister is actually pushing flow between the minimum and max you should be fine. I only question the flow bar on efficiency. If its not drilled correctly you get very poor flow throughout the bar.
Just remember when the power goes off to the filter kill the power to the chiller as well or you'll destroy the chiller.
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/388606/need-advice-on-heater-and-cooler-operation#post_3428225
As long as the canister is actually pushing flow between the minimum and max you should be fine. I only question the flow bar on efficiency. If its not drilled correctly you get very poor flow throughout the bar.
Just remember when the power goes off to the filter kill the power to the chiller as well or you'll destroy the chiller.
Thanks for the heads up on that. All pumps are on the same line, I have to shut the power off to feed the SHs. A single button and I'm all set. I'm still debating if I will use the canister...it makes a great standby life support filter if something goes bad.
 
S

saxman

Guest
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/388606/need-advice-on-heater-and-cooler-operation#post_3428225
Just remember when the power goes off to the filter kill the power to the chiller as well or you'll destroy the chiller.
I'm not following that one...as long as the siphon isn't broken, everything should turn on at once upon power restoration. If the power's out or on, the pump/canister and the chiller will be "off" or "on" at the same time, n'est ce pas?
If you mean "don't turn off the flow without turning off the chiller too", which I believe you do, I do get that. However, when I read it, my first thought was "power interruption not of her own doing".
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
No I meant inadvertently stopping flow to the chiller while the chiller is still powered. A flow switch would be the perfect fit.
 
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