Need for a RO/DI???

jenni1979

Member
My question is if I haven't had any problems with my water that I have been putting into my tank, should I get a RO/DI? Are they completely necessary or are there other ways around it? Also, which brand is the best. I was some on ---- and they were going for pretty cheap, like $100.
 

clownfish2

Member
Do your research on this one. A lot of those that you see on ---- claim to be for aquatic use but in reality they are not(they are for drinking water). Check the dry goods on this site and see what they are offering. IMO Typhoon III ;)
 

reefnut

Active Member
Jenni, are you sure that you have not had any trouble with your tap water? I would run tests on the tap water to make sure... Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrate, Phosphate, Silicas, Calcium, PH, Copper, lead, any other heavy metals, TDS, etc...
 

reefnut

Active Member
You can get a water report from your local treatment facility that will tell you a lot of what is in the water.
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member

Originally posted by Jenni1979
My question is if I haven't had any problems with my water that I have been putting into my tank, should I get a RO/DI? Are they completely necessary or are there other ways around it? Also, which brand is the best. I was some on ---- and they were going for pretty cheap, like $100.

RO/DI water is never needed. You tank should take care of any things in your tap water. Whatever an RO/DI unit costs, the money would be better spent on a larger tank, sump, refugium, macro algae/marine plants, better lighting, or even better livestock.
 

jenni1979

Member
Sorry, but I will even disagree on that one beaslbob. I have heard of people having nitrates in there water which is real bad for corals. That is why I tested my water for them and found out that I was okay on that part, as well as nitrite and ammonia.
 

reefnut

Active Member

Originally posted by beaslbob
RO/DI water is never needed. You tank should take care of any things in your tap water. Whatever an RO/DI unit costs, the money would be better spent on a larger tank, sump, refugium, macro algae/marine plants, better lighting, or even better livestock.

Few questions Bob,
How does Phosphates effect corals? In what concentration?
How will they effect the Clam Jenni has?
What happens when calcium gets to high?
What in your tank removes lead? Will lead effect anything?
We've been through the copper thing already...
What are silicas and what effect do they have on the tank?
IF you can answer these questions then we'll continue this conversation.
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
here we go again LOL.
Originally posted by ReefNut
Few questions Bob,
How does Phosphates effect corals? In what concentration?

At some concentration above the level the algaes use phosphates, they are adverse to corals. That is why red/brown algaes first appear and they are replaced by green algaes as the phosphates are consumed.
How will they effect the Clam Jenni has?
What happens when calcium gets to high?
Calcuim is used by livestock for bones shells and the like. It is also used in calcuis algaes. This use of calcuim means there had better be some buffering source of calcium in the tank. All calcium in tap water does is slow down that buffering process.
What in your tank removes lead? Will lead effect anything?
Yep. Including the people drinking your tap water and the algae in you tank.
We've been through the copper thing already...
What are silicas and what effect do they have on the tank?
The hold the water in a confined place.
IF you can answer these questions then we'll continue this conversation.
As i said before, if you tank is not handleing these things then you have serious problems. RO/DI or tap water is not the problem or the answer.
 

reefnut

Active Member
Well Bob those were insufficient answers... I am tired of reading, answering or even thinking about your BS. I'm just in hopes the Mods will see the detriment you are causing to this board and solve the problem.
 
OK, I try to stay out of the bickering, but I would like to ask you a question beaslbob....
If RO/DI water is not the answer (or one of many contributing factors towards and answer) to having goodies such as lead, copper, phosphates and silicates -
then how are
quote:
"a larger tank, sump, refugium, macro algae/marine plants, better lighting, or even better livestock."
going to help lower the amount of these things in our water?
Again, not being mean or nasty, just asking in a "critical thinking" / friendly debate type of manner....
 

reefnut

Active Member

Originally posted by Kipass4130
and getting technical... silicas are fine... silicates arent

My bad...
 

jenni1979

Member
It seems like everything I ask on here is usually up for debate. I think some people do things different, but the real question is what is your sucess rate? Please include that with your answers from now on. Either RO/DI or no RO/DI.
 
Oh yeah -
Jenni1979, I would suggest RO/DI water. Although it CAN be possible for your tap water to not cause any troubles, the odds are that somewhere along the line you will question if your water is the source of some problem you experience. With an RO/DI system, you can generally rule the water out as a source of the problem.
(I say generally because when things get REAL bad you'll even question the lifespan of your filters and weather you should replace them.)
I digress - at least you have the ability to rule it out. Currently, using tap water, you can't. As for which brand is best, I can't comment. I can say that the Kent systems seem to work fine. I have one, and it hasn't given me a problem yet.
PS - Is Jenni the real way to spell your name? Very cool using an i instead of a y. -I've never seen it before and I like it.
Best of luck!
-grasshopper.
 

tony detroit

Active Member
I don't know much but I do know this...
RO/DI is way way way better and more helpful for your tank.
If you got the money, buy the RO/DI
 

jenni1979

Member
PS - Is Jenni the real way to spell your name? Very cool using an i instead of a y. -I've never seen it before and I like it.
No, my name is Jennifer. People call me Jenni all of the time though. Thanks :)
Kipass, beautiful tank. I hope mine can be as cool as yours. I haven't gotten a chance to have corals in my tank yet. I tried to add them but my tank was not established enough so they died. I know, big mistake :(
I haven't gotten any green algae though, just some red and brown stuff growing on the class which my lfs said was normal. Oh, My rocks seem to be doing fine too.
My lfs has a beautiful well established fish tank so I am about to head up there and ask them what they use. They don't sell anything in the tank, it is just for show and for the past year that I have been going there, they have never had problems with it that I could tell.
 

nm reef

Active Member
I must respectfully disagree with the position that tap water is ok to use long term and that ro or ro/di water is not needed. Most tap-water sources can potentially introduce elements and metals that could become toxic. There is no way that algaes can adaquately remove these toxins/metals...and there are very few accurate means of testing for these toxins/metals. A good ro/di system will insure a clean water source and addition of salt to this clean water will establish requiried levels of trace elements. I'd be much more comfortable using a measured/stable mix of trace elements without risking the introduction of elements/metals/chemicals that could eventually present problems for my reef.
Now this procedure may indeed work for you...congradualtions. But to advise that ro and/or ro/di water is not needed is reckless at best(in my opinion) and simply goes against the vast majority of advice present by very experiencied reefers! I am confident that if questioned on the subject the vast majority of experiencied reefkeepers will strongly urge the use of ro and/or ro/di water over any tap-water(with conditioners or not)!!:cool:
NMREEF website
“Whiskey for my men...beer for my horses.”
nmreef@cox.net
 

jenni1979

Member
Kipass, yes I just tested my water from my tank and I have high nitrates. I have had high nitrates from the beginning of about 25 or so. I think it is my Skilter and I am going to try the Skilter modification. Worst mistake ever buying that Skilter. I added some macro algae so hopefully that will work too. Also, it is hard to say with the lfs if they will give me good advise or not. To be on the safe side, i guess I will probably go ahead and purchase one.
 
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