Need help with 90 gallon start up!!!

prosteveo

New Member
Hi guys i have had fresh water for as long as i can remember, well i just recently bought a 90 gallon that i want to set up with salt water. Can you guys help me along with the process?
I have the tank, i was thinking about getting the fuval fx5 canister filter and coral life t5 ho 4 bulb light fixture about 80 pounds of live rock and iam going to do about a 4 inch live sand/ crushed coral bed what else am i going to need just to get it started i want to keep it simple for starters please any suggestions would be helpful
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Hello and welcome to the forums! I hope you enjoy your stay!
Is the tank drilled for a sump? Is the tank a 90g tall or a 90g standard?
Avoid canister filters - they aren't really built for saltwater filtration. You could use them, but they are a lot of maintenance because they need to be cleaned religiously every two to four weeks and the carbon replaced regardless if you have the time to do it or not.
The Coralife unit is pretty cool, but I have been prefering the t5 linkable units. You can buy two bulbs/one unit at a time and with more links you can keep more corals.
I suggest an Emperor 400 hob filter - they are spacious. There are plenty of ways to filter a saltwater aquarium - if you have the money. A lot of people with HOB filtration suggest getting a HOB refugium and a HOB skimmer like an Octopus brand HOB skimmer.
Temperature control is a must - so you need a saltwater rated heater. I prefer a titanium heater with a separate temperature gauge.
Water movement is absolutely essential to the life of your aquarium - Koralia powerheads are cheap and convenient and provide the kind of flow that aquarists like. There are also Tunze brand as well as EcoTech Vortech MP40's that would be absolutely brilliant in a system such as yours. Don't skimp on your powerhead - it will be the life source of your tank.
A 4" sandbed is excessive - a 90g tank needs about 90 pounds of dry aragonite sand to get started - which should give you between 1.5" to 2" of sand in the bottom of it. At any depth of sand, you will need to learn how to maintain it with critters and the occasional top stirring and gravel/sand vac. Try to avoid crushed coral unless you enjoy gravel vac'ing at every water change.
I also suggest setting up a kind of water change system. Go ahead and get yourself an RO Unit and get a couple of 40g brute trash cans that you can set on a castor wheel base.... one is for mixing saltwater and pumping it out of that into the aquarium and the other is for siphoning water and detritus out of your tank and wheeling it away. Putting castors under the trash cans make it so much easier to take to the toilet, sink, or outside for disposal.
Also, please read my Snake's Methods thread for additional research. https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/388776/snakes-methods
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/390214/snakes-111-tips-and-tricks-for-new-hobbyists
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/391533/snakes-guide-to-cycling
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/388804/snakes-method-for-setting-up-a-sumpless-tank
 

prosteveo

New Member
You really think that a hob filter such as the emperor 400 is better than the fx5 fluval? I would need at least two of those hob filters wouldnt i ? just to be clear because iam a noob iam asking this the dry sand is not live correct but i can seed it with live sand? and do you have any links or suggestion on were i should buy my sand ,live rock,heater and filter and power heads any good web sites you could recommend? again i need some help this is my first saltwater tank. i need to keep it simple so i can get it started and learn along the way. point me in the right direction please lol thanks for all the help so far !!!!!
Steve
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by prosteveo http:///t/391753/need-help-with-90-gallon-start-up#post_3476150
You really think that a hob filter such as the emperor 400 is better than the fx5 fluval? I would need at least two of those hob filters wouldnt i ? just to be clear because iam a noob iam asking this the dry sand is not live correct but i can seed it with live sand? and do you have any links or suggestion on were i should buy my sand ,live rock,heater and filter and power heads any good web sites you could recommend? again i need some help this is my first saltwater tank. i need to keep it simple so i can get it started and learn along the way. point me in the right direction please lol thanks for all the help so far !!!!!
Steve
Not necessarily better, however, the canister filter will be a lot more maintenance. If you are going to have a reef in the future, a canister filter can become a burden more than an asset, unless you are running straight chemical medias such as purigen and chemipure elite and carbon in them and using a spray bar across the top of the water. I think an emperor 400 is a better choice - it offers double the filtration, it has two media baskets - and when you need to, one side of it can be modified into a refugium. Also, the filter replacements are relatively cheap compared to canister filter media replacements. A HOB filter in a large tank isn't there for water movement - it's simply to filter out particulate organic matter. Believe it or not - but filters are not absolutely necessary in saltwater aquariums. BUT, you do have to have other means of letting particulate matter and detritus settle out of the water column.
Live sand in bags is not necessarily alive. It has bacterial cysts in it and it is kept moist, however it adds more ammonia initially to your aquarium than anything else. Dry aragonite sand comes in all sizes, and I recommend getting a medium course sand - that way powerheads do not blow your sand around too much. When you buy live rock, that live rock is very porous inside - and it hosts tons of creatures - big and microscopic, which will populate your sandbed over time. At your initial cycling, it's not necessary to add a cup of live sand from another aquarists tank to yours. However, over time - lets say a year or two down the road, you may want to do that to replenish and renew the microfauna in the sandbed.
I can not recommend any sites for you to buy from on these forums - it's a forum rule that you do not post links to competitor sites. However, I do have an e-mail address at the top right of every one of my posts. I would be happy to help you there. However, I can tell you some good brands on here... I recommend Octopus skimmers - they are well built, very reliable and user friendly. I like Emperor for HOB filtration - however there are some really awesome HOB refugiums on the market - but they are quite expensive. If you have the space, I would suggest a HOB refugium instead of a mechanical filter. Phosphate reactors such as two little fishies brand are great - as well as phosban media, which is a GFO (Granular Ferric Oxide) or also known as a Phosphate reactor. Phosphate reactors are pretty common in the hobby within the last few years - and many people purchase them to combat green algae growth and promote good coralline algae growth. I really like Koralia powerheads because they are cheap - but they are bulky in a tank. I like low profile stuff, so I go for closed loops (which is a whole nother story) OR, ... I am quite fond of EcoTech Vortech MP40s right now for water flow. You can usually find them used for 1/2 to 3/4 the price on buy and sell forums on the internet. If you want to save some money on rock, purchase half base rock and half live rock - MarcoRocks has great deals on base rock and the rock they sell looks pretty good. Also, If you are just doing a FOWLR system, I suggest just getting your basic salt - such as Instant Ocean. If you are planning on doing a reef, I highly recommend getting a better quality salt such as "Reef Crystals," or Seachem Reef or something of that nature. Reef salt mixes have a little extra calcium and alkalinity and magnesium which makes your corals and coralline algae grow faster and remain in good health. Titanium heaters are always a good choice. I haven't run across a titanium heater yet that I didn't like.
I would purchase live rock from saltwaterfish.com. I think their customer service is pretty good and their prices are reasonable. If you want to purchase live sand, same thing. I would recommend purchasing it from saltwaterfish.com. Saltwaterfish.com also sells some equipment - so check them out and see what you can buy to support the forums!
Feel free to e-mail me or private message me anytime. I loose track of threads all of the time, so give me a nudge every now and then. Welcome to the forums!
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by prosteveo http:///t/391753/need-help-with-90-gallon-start-up#post_3476150
You really think that a hob filter such as the emperor 400 is better than the fx5 fluval? I would need at least two of those hob filters wouldnt i ? just to be clear because iam a noob iam asking this the dry sand is not live correct but i can seed it with live sand? and do you have any links or suggestion on were i should buy my sand ,live rock,heater and filter and power heads any good web sites you could recommend? again i need some help this is my first saltwater tank. i need to keep it simple so i can get it started and learn along the way. point me in the right direction please lol thanks for all the help so far !!!!!
Steve
Hi,
Welcome to the site. +1 on Power heads, RO unit, water change equipment and the heater. A sump system is the very best...that's why Snake asked if the tank was drilled. The Fluval is indeed good enough. I used canister filters for 8 or 9 years before going with a sump on my 90g. True indeed you must keep up on maintenance.
I wouldn't go for crushed coral, live reef sand is the best, or live or dry aragonite sand. Crushed coral is hard to keep clean for the CUC (clean up crew) critters of snails, crabs, gobies, cucumbers and starfish. 2 inches of sand is all that is needed unless you want a sand dwelling critter.
The linkable T5HO units are great. I linked 3 over my 90g and I can keep any coral I want. For fish only a single unit is more than enough and you can add lighting later by linking them and not have to spend a fortune with upgrades.
I would not waste a penny on anything
with the Coralife logo on it. I have had three Coralife lights, and thay all were a waste of money. The Coralife skimmer, the Coralife master controller, the Coralife elite MH unit and the two fluorescent 2 bulb and 4 bulb units...all garbage. The fluorescent units worked fine, they just couldn't sustain any corals besides mushrooms. The Coralife fluorescent units cost me $300.00 for the 2 bulb and $450.00 for the 4 bulb, while a single 2 bulb T5HO linkable runs $136.00 to link all 3 = $408.00
 

prosteveo

New Member
Thank you guys very much for all your help i am learning so much from you and every one on the forums. I am going to be building a stand for my 90 gallon this week end after the stand is build iam going to be buying every thing i need to start up my tank! .Snake i WILL be messaging u for more help if you dont mind. It will be a couple of days before i get back on to order things so thanks again i will be back after stand is built
 

prosteveo

New Member
not sure if i canpost lkson he or not but i was wondering if any one could tell me if this is worth spnding the money or if its a waste f my money? i need good master test kit let me know what you guys think thanks << Link Removed >>
 

reefkprz

Active Member
I had that same kit years ago, its an OK kit there are definitely better quality test kits out there but I think thats the only one that comes with so many different tests in one kit. at this point I now buy higher quality test kits seperately, its more expensive but I get the type I like and trust.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Steve,
That kit is for both freshwater and saltwater. If you just have a saltwater tank, you would be wasting your money buying freshwater kits as well. I've always used API test kits. While they have been proven not to be the absolute most accurate kits in the world, they still work for me because I have been in the hobby so long - I just know what my levels are (nitrate and phosphate) by looking at my tank.
If this is a reef tank, there are only six tests that are really important: Nitrate, Phosphate, pH, alkalinity, calcium, magnesium. I am tempted to leave off nitrate and phosphate - but that is important too for new hobbyists. If this is a fish only tank, the two main ones are nitrate and phosphate.
I would go for the two API liquid master test kits first - and save yourself over $30. OR, you could simply buy them individually with salifert brand or even seachem brand which are both excellent. If you buy individually, don't buy a test kit that you have no idea what the test means once you have tested it - IE, research what alkalinity is - how it effects the aquarium, and it's relationship to pH, calcium and magnesium and what it should read in it's relationship to calcium.
For myself, I know that if I see a lot of nuisance algae build up I am having nitrate and phosphate issues caused by some factor such as overfeeding or bad top off water and then I adjust it as necessary. I test calcium and alkalinity once a week - usually on sundays - to make sure that I am on target. I rarely check pH anymore unless my fish and corals are showing symptoms of pH swings. and I have only used a magnesium test kit once - and it was neat, and I need another one right now. If I were to re-buy my test kits again, I would go with either salifert or seachem this time - and buy in accordance to what is important at the time so that I wouldn't purchase them all at once.
 

prosteveo

New Member
hello again i was thinking about going with these pumps

Hydor Koralia Evolution Pumps i was wondering what gph to go with for a 90 gallon fish/reef tank? they have 550 gph all the way up to 1400gph i want to put one in each corner of my tank what gph should i go with thanks?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Honestly, for the money and functionality, you might want to save up a bit more money and just go for an MP40 instead of investing in the Koralias and then deciding to upgrade later.
But, on a budget, Koralias are worth what they are asking for - especially if you want to pair them with a wave maker. For a 90g reef tank, I would suggest somewhere around the 1400 to 1800gph of total internal tank turnover rate... That being said, the 750s would probably be a good choice or you could purchase the slightly larger model.
 

meowzer

Moderator
You know.....I use to swear by the Koralia's...BUT if I could do it all over again....honestly....I would get something else....The reason is, I have spent A LOT of money on Koralias.....and 60% of them want to run backwards
I have to unplug them.....and keep doing that until they decide to go the right way......VERY ANNOYING
 
Top