Need help with closed loop syetem.

reeferdc

Member
I took this pic from EscapeToTheWater.
I wanted to know how I would go about building this. I currently have a 75 gallon agressive tank and I hate seeing all of that stuff sticking into my tank. It would be great to have just one intake and one return. I would like to go go under my tank to a sump where all my other equipment would be. Can someone please help me and tell me what I have to do.. Also how powerfull of a pump do i need??
Thanks! Any help would be auesome!
 

tree

Member
First you need to get a SCWD. The rest is PVC pipe, pvc valves, some clear tubing, connectors, pvc glue, and some time. Actually melevs reef has some great instructions on how to set this up
 

reeferdc

Member
where does the pump connect? Does it go in the sump and connect to the bottem of the outake tube? Also how thick is the PVC pipe? 1.5 inch?
 

reeferdc

Member
Also can I make the sump a 10 gallon tank? Will this work?? Also how do I keep it balanced? Like how does the water not overflow out of the sump if the pump stops working? Does it overflow if the pump does not work??
 

reeferdc

Member
Sorry last thing. im not sure what i want to do is called a closed loop system. I want water to go from the tank to a sump and back into the tank.
 

bill f

Member
Look on this site for a thread from dboy99 under closed loop. Squid the resident plumber here answers all his questions and set up. But, I don't believe you need a sump for a closed loop. just the intake to pump and then the returns.
 

tree

Member
That is not a closed loop. I have a 55gal at the moment. I have an overflow that takes water from the display tank down to the sump. That is where my skimmer and heater are. Then a pump in the sump that pushes the water back up.
A closed loop takes water from the tank to a pump and then pushes it back to the tank. It is simply for water flow. The water doesn't go thru the sump. You can still put the pump for a closed loop in a sump if you have space.
I also have a 2nd overflow that takes water to the refugium, which then flows into the sump, and a 2nd pump which then pushes the water back up thru a scwd and to one of 2 outlets for increased flow.
I have an old 55 which I use for a combo sump/refugium.
There are a number of threads about sumps. The plumbing threads are invaluable as well. the plumbing 101 is very long but has lotsof useful information. Do a search on this forum. To prevent too much water from going down to the sump during a power failure - or just pump maintenance - you drill a couple holes into the pipe(s) for the return line just below the water line in your display tank
I'm not sure if a 10gal would be large enough for a 75 gal. you need some water in the sump for the pump to push back up. Depending on your pump and other equipment, that will determine the required water level. Then see is you have space for the volume of water from the hole in your return pipe to your regular water level in the display tank. Do a search for reef calculators - there are a couple of sites that make this easy but I can't link to them due to forum rules
 

reeferdc

Member
ok so what I would be looking to do is Have a pump bring water to the sump then push it back up into the tank. I basicly want to hide all my equipment. Is a 10 gallon to small to build a small wet dry trickle filter? The tank is a 75g FO. I also dont really understand how to prevent the watter from gushing all over the place if the pump fails.
Thanks soo much for your help guys.
 

reeferdc

Member
Or I could just not bother with the wetdry and keep my canister filter and put it in the sump.. Are canister filters ok for a FO tank??
Sorry for soo many questions.
 

reeferdc

Member
Would this wet dry plan wor for a 75 gallon tank?? The wet dry would be 10 gallons and I would have 2-3 gallons of bio balls??
 

reeferdc

Member
my tank is 4 feet by 2 feet.... Will 10 gallons be enough to make a wet/dry filter for this size tank??
 

reeferdc

Member
also how do i balance the water being pumped into the tank from the water comming out?? If they are not exactly matched up wont one overflow??
Thanks for the help guys.
 

cdubbs

Member
u need to make sure that the overflow can withstand the amount of water the pump is pumping back in to the tank...as long as u get an overflow that say for example can drain 600gph and the pumps max is 500gph then ur fine..or say the overflow is 1000gph and the pump is 800-1000...
The water only flows over as fast as the pump will pump it into the tank..hope this helps
 

cdubbs

Member
u cant do that cause if the power goes out and the syphon stops when the power goes back on the tank will overflow. u need an overflow or a drilled tank.,
 

dvincent

Member
Ok here is what you are going to need: a HOB overflow (pic 1)on the back of your tank to bring the water over the back of the tank and down to the sump underneath (pic 2). inside your sump you will have a pump that will bring water back up to the display, as long as you have a return pump that is close match in GPH to the HOB overflow your display will always be full and you do your top offs in the sump. a 10g sump may work if you don't try and put to much in it, the one in the pic is a 30g and i use it on my 180g display, when i do a power out test i don't loose siphon and my sump level only raises 2-3".

 
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