phoenix73
Member
I made some mistakes 2 yrs ago when I built up my FOWLR tank.
I am learning what worked and what didn't.
I have a 150G non drilled tank flush against a wall shared with the heated garage. I have plumbed a large cannister filter through the wall in a closed loop. I have a drain valve that I can turn on the PVC to empty old water directly into a sink in the garage. I then make new water next to the sink and pump it back in via the pump on the cannister filter.
This part works great.
I had to add a skimmer. Unfortunately, due to the height difference between the floor of the garage and floor of the dining room where the tank resides, I have to put the skimmer on a high shelf. It's a pain to clean it on a ladder.
I found plans on the forum for PVC overflows, so I am going to make one through the wall and I am in the process of building an 83G sump/refugium.
Questions:
My new questions are lighting. Right now, I have 2 50/50 compact fluorescent 96w 36" strips. I obviously need new lighting if I want to go to corals. I'm new to MH lighting, so all I have heard about are the prefab MF T5 combos.
There is a hood on my tank and the wife will not let me remove it. I also have glass over the tank under the current lights. Can the lights stand above the water without glass? Should anything go between the lights and glass?
Adding a fan will help with heat control in the hood, but once I get the sump running how much will that help with heat control due to evaporation?
Finally, I used crushed coral in my base. Is there an easy way to switch to sand if I go to coral? Or should I just do the sand in the refuge and keep the CC in the display tank?
I am initially going to keep the cannister running as a separate system until the refug gets up and running and then I will convert that to carbon and other chem and mechanical media only. The benefit is easy water changes.
Any other comments?
I am learning what worked and what didn't.
I have a 150G non drilled tank flush against a wall shared with the heated garage. I have plumbed a large cannister filter through the wall in a closed loop. I have a drain valve that I can turn on the PVC to empty old water directly into a sink in the garage. I then make new water next to the sink and pump it back in via the pump on the cannister filter.
This part works great.
I had to add a skimmer. Unfortunately, due to the height difference between the floor of the garage and floor of the dining room where the tank resides, I have to put the skimmer on a high shelf. It's a pain to clean it on a ladder.
I found plans on the forum for PVC overflows, so I am going to make one through the wall and I am in the process of building an 83G sump/refugium.
Questions:
My new questions are lighting. Right now, I have 2 50/50 compact fluorescent 96w 36" strips. I obviously need new lighting if I want to go to corals. I'm new to MH lighting, so all I have heard about are the prefab MF T5 combos.
There is a hood on my tank and the wife will not let me remove it. I also have glass over the tank under the current lights. Can the lights stand above the water without glass? Should anything go between the lights and glass?
Adding a fan will help with heat control in the hood, but once I get the sump running how much will that help with heat control due to evaporation?
Finally, I used crushed coral in my base. Is there an easy way to switch to sand if I go to coral? Or should I just do the sand in the refuge and keep the CC in the display tank?
I am initially going to keep the cannister running as a separate system until the refug gets up and running and then I will convert that to carbon and other chem and mechanical media only. The benefit is easy water changes.
Any other comments?
