Neptunes 72" Custom LED system.
- Thread starter king_neptune
- Start date
king_neptune
Active Member
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/3295833
Just a thought here, could you have drilled the holes then used self tapping metal screws instead of hand tapping all of the holes? I mean it is just aluminum right?
I think thats an exceellent questions. If I remember right, I went to several hardware stores. They didnt have self tapping screws that small. The screws have to be a 40 size or less, otherwise the head is too big and touches a stud, creating a short. RapidLED now has heatsinks predrilled/tapped. They are actually only a couple dollars more than a similar sized unit from Heatsinks usa. The heatsinks they have arent as big as mine, but they will do custom orders based off what dimensions you ask for. The pricing varies, but Mike told me to count on adding $10+the price differance of the new size.
My dad ordered enough to do his nano. $225 was the bill. He got a 6x9 drilled/tapped heatsink, 9 XPG-Q5 whites, 9 XRE blues, 2 dimmable drivers, premium thermal paste, screws, wires, AC adapter, 18x80degre optics. Shipped.
The heatsink was drilled in uniform with prescision, aluminum but with a slight gritty finish...not galvanized, but similar finish.
The holes were closer to the edge than my mounting L brackets would allow, so take that into consideration. Your L brackets arent going to fit super tight like mine if you went with the pre drilled.
A way around this is to let them know when your doing your order, that you want the drill/tapp process on your custom heatsink to be 2" from the outside edges.
http:///forum/post/3295833
Just a thought here, could you have drilled the holes then used self tapping metal screws instead of hand tapping all of the holes? I mean it is just aluminum right?
I think thats an exceellent questions. If I remember right, I went to several hardware stores. They didnt have self tapping screws that small. The screws have to be a 40 size or less, otherwise the head is too big and touches a stud, creating a short. RapidLED now has heatsinks predrilled/tapped. They are actually only a couple dollars more than a similar sized unit from Heatsinks usa. The heatsinks they have arent as big as mine, but they will do custom orders based off what dimensions you ask for. The pricing varies, but Mike told me to count on adding $10+the price differance of the new size.
My dad ordered enough to do his nano. $225 was the bill. He got a 6x9 drilled/tapped heatsink, 9 XPG-Q5 whites, 9 XRE blues, 2 dimmable drivers, premium thermal paste, screws, wires, AC adapter, 18x80degre optics. Shipped.
The heatsink was drilled in uniform with prescision, aluminum but with a slight gritty finish...not galvanized, but similar finish.
The holes were closer to the edge than my mounting L brackets would allow, so take that into consideration. Your L brackets arent going to fit super tight like mine if you went with the pre drilled.
A way around this is to let them know when your doing your order, that you want the drill/tapp process on your custom heatsink to be 2" from the outside edges.
king_neptune
Active Member
Just ordered the Heat sinks, and LED's for panels #3 & #4.
I decided to do the Q5's for the whites this side.
They are slightly brighter than the XRE's, but that can be compensated via my dimming.
Since they were identical in pricing, i figured why not.
Also picking up a 36x83" Acrylic slab. 1/2"thick. For a splash guard.
$50 local p/u. Good deal. A quarter the price of a new sheet.
Right now, just researching if that will prove to be too much diffusion of the light.
I decided to do the Q5's for the whites this side.
They are slightly brighter than the XRE's, but that can be compensated via my dimming.
Since they were identical in pricing, i figured why not.
Also picking up a 36x83" Acrylic slab. 1/2"thick. For a splash guard.
$50 local p/u. Good deal. A quarter the price of a new sheet.
Right now, just researching if that will prove to be too much diffusion of the light.
J
jstdv8
Guest
King,
Whats the advantages of using 1/2" plexi? seems really thick for a spalsh guard
Whats the advantages of using 1/2" plexi? seems really thick for a spalsh guard
2quills
Well-Known Member
Hey, King...was wondering if you could tell me what the dimensions are on those drivers, LxW...? I checked all through your thread and didn't see it mentioned anywhere and I'm having a hard time finding them online.
Also, was there any specific reason why you went with the ELN-60-48D drivers instead of the P's? Just wondering.
Also, was there any specific reason why you went with the ELN-60-48D drivers instead of the P's? Just wondering.
king_neptune
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jstdv8 http:///forum/thread/377353/neptunes-72-custom-led-system/80#post_3300504
King,
Whats the advantages of using 1/2" plexi? seems really thick for a splash guard
Thick yes, bendy no
I payed $50 for a 3'x7' sheet, so even if its a failure, i got plenty left over for other projects.
Honestly I would prefer 3/8. 1/4 is too slim, and will warp from the moisture over time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefraff http:///forum/thread/377353/neptunes-72-custom-led-system/80#post_3300635
Acrylic doesn't cut much light but 1/2" might be a little much. Pretty sure it wont sag though
Definitely wont sag! This stuff is solid!
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/377353/neptunes-72-custom-led-system/80#post_3301073
Hey King!!!! What is the height of the LED with the optics installed?
I have it eyeballed ATM. Its not permanent yet till I finish panels 3/4. But roughly 15"(I raised it last week from aproxamatly 10"). I can measure for you to-marrow and get an exact if you want. I just dont really feel like walking across the property to pay a visit to the aquarium room.
I played with 40/60/80 degree spreads. And overall the 80's were my favorite no contest. Its the best happy medium for my setup, and offered the best overall footprint on my foam wall. I had thought to do a mix of 50%@80 + 25%@40 + %25%60. But settled in on 80 degree overall. When I'm finished, and have ti all hanging....ill probably do it about 8-10" off the surface.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/377353/neptunes-72-custom-led-system/80#post_3301082
Hey, King...was wondering if you could tell me what the dimensions are on those drivers, LxW...? I checked all through your thread and didn't see it mentioned anywhere and I'm having a hard time finding them on line.
Also, was there any specific reason why you went with the ELN-60-48D drivers instead of the P's? Just wondering.
Dimensions 181 x 61.5 x 35mm
I went with the D model because I wanted to avoid having to build a PWM board for dimming. I tried to learn...but it was too confusing for me. I opted for the Potentiometer method instead, and as you can see from my control box...it was a simple easy to follow design.
The D version uses pots for dimming via a variable voltage of 0-10v to control the driver.
king_neptune
Active Member
Oh yeah....
My LED's, heat sinks and optics arrived the other day.
I should get payed in a couple weeks,(damn GI bill checks are really hit and miss with reliability).
When it does come, Ill order the last 4 drivers and finish the array.
Anyone should be able to mimic this for around $1300-$1400.
Shave off a significant chunk if you go for a non-dimable version(about $200-$250).
If you go that route the drivers are like 1/2 the price. And no need for a control box and the extras I got.
It significantly simplifies the whole project, its just not as cool as being able to independently control your lighting on a whim.
Though I must say...they are either all on...or all off for the most part...unless I want to impress someone.
My LED's, heat sinks and optics arrived the other day.
I should get payed in a couple weeks,(damn GI bill checks are really hit and miss with reliability).
When it does come, Ill order the last 4 drivers and finish the array.
Anyone should be able to mimic this for around $1300-$1400.
Shave off a significant chunk if you go for a non-dimable version(about $200-$250).
If you go that route the drivers are like 1/2 the price. And no need for a control box and the extras I got.
It significantly simplifies the whole project, its just not as cool as being able to independently control your lighting on a whim.
Though I must say...they are either all on...or all off for the most part...unless I want to impress someone.
2quills
Well-Known Member
Cool...yeah the pwm route does seem a bit confusing. I'd like to build an array like this for my new set up and have just a bump in the road as far as how I want to be able to control them. I've read somewhere that it can be done on a multi controler like the Profilux and such. However, I'm not entirely sure how to make that happen yet. Though, you're right...going the non dimming route would be very simple. When It's all said and done I think mine will be mounted approx. 8" above the waters surface...I think I'll go with 80 optics like you did.
Can't wait to see yours finished up.
Can't wait to see yours finished up.
king_neptune
Active Member
I too have come to the conclusion that I will settle on an 8-10" height. I have been playing with it for the last couple weeks, seeing what I like best. I raised it last week, and next week Ill drop it.
I can tell the corals respond better under the lower height, so Ill be confirming by watching for another week. Even though I already know the answer. Cant wait to get payed! gonna order my last parts as soon as I do so I can finish this project.
well sorta...I already am working on the idea of putting in some T5's to run the length of the array, just to offset the lighting by adding some UV wavelengths. Since LED's done produce UV light, I will add some end caps to my frame and string a couple T's. I predict the color will improve, for minimal cost to upgrade.
I can tell the corals respond better under the lower height, so Ill be confirming by watching for another week. Even though I already know the answer. Cant wait to get payed! gonna order my last parts as soon as I do so I can finish this project.
well sorta...I already am working on the idea of putting in some T5's to run the length of the array, just to offset the lighting by adding some UV wavelengths. Since LED's done produce UV light, I will add some end caps to my frame and string a couple T's. I predict the color will improve, for minimal cost to upgrade.
king_neptune
Active Member
The more I think about adding supplemental T5 lighting the more li like it.
What spectrum of T5's would you recommend for SPS,clams, ect?
At a quick glance I found these for $169:
Ready Fit Tek T5 Aquarium/Grow Lighting Fixture 48"
Specifications
Housing made of rustproof aluminum
Completely assembled with 2 - 97% reflective Tek reflectors
Includes waterproof end caps
Major brand T5 ballast high output electronic ballast
Easily mounts with 4 screws
8ft. power cord - 120V
Dimensions: 48.5"L X 4"W X 6"H
I was thinking 2 kits giving me 4 total 48" T5's.
Wouldn't quite cover the whole tank length, but like I said...just supplemental lighting.
Or I could get 4x 36" kits instead. That would spread the 72" tank well.two for the front, two for the back.
What spectrum of T5's would you recommend for SPS,clams, ect?
At a quick glance I found these for $169:
Ready Fit Tek T5 Aquarium/Grow Lighting Fixture 48"
Specifications
I was thinking 2 kits giving me 4 total 48" T5's.
Wouldn't quite cover the whole tank length, but like I said...just supplemental lighting.
Or I could get 4x 36" kits instead. That would spread the 72" tank well.two for the front, two for the back.
king_neptune
Active Member
I like those. Nice find t^
If I went with a pair of 48" arrays at two bulbs each. That would give me 4 total T5's. I could put them over the center of the tank. That would leave 12" on either end. That shouldn't be too rough on the pocket book, and wont be leaving a large chunk of my tank bare. I think would give me a nice option of suplemental lighting to fill in any gaps that LED's dont provide.
If I went with a pair of 48" arrays at two bulbs each. That would give me 4 total T5's. I could put them over the center of the tank. That would leave 12" on either end. That shouldn't be too rough on the pocket book, and wont be leaving a large chunk of my tank bare. I think would give me a nice option of suplemental lighting to fill in any gaps that LED's dont provide.
robertmathern
Active Member
At last we meet again King. I have 2 X 48" as supplement on my 72" tank and I have to say you dont really notice the sides of the tank being darker and anything. I think it would be better than getting four 36" fixtures because thats alot of bulbs to replace when it comes time not to mention ballasts when they go out and all that. I have been more than happy with my 4 footers and they dont even have reflectors on them (not using them for par just looks). Well good luck nice to see this comming together nicely. I will be doing this in the not so far off future just got to get past my sons birthday and macna (same weekend so thats gonna put a hurting on the pocket book lol)
2quills
Well-Known Member
If it's just for suppliment lighting I don't see why you couldn't go with just one set of the LET 60" T5's. If you get the VHO versions that come with the Ice Cap Ballasts to overdrive the bulbs you'd get a little better penetration. If you were to go that route though it would be best to install another fan or two to blow across the bulbs.
king_neptune
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/377353/neptunes-72-custom-led-system/80#post_3301768
King what is the space/height from where the LED mounts to the heatsink to the end of the optics?
You got me. Like a 3/4" gap. I can check in the morning when I head to the aquarium room if you really need to know the exact measurements.
Thats an odd question, why you wanna know? For the spacers?
I picked up 1 1/4" spacer myself. Not sure if im going to use them, or 1.5" to allow more breathing room.
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/377353/neptunes-72-custom-led-system/80#post_3301768
King what is the space/height from where the LED mounts to the heatsink to the end of the optics?
You got me. Like a 3/4" gap. I can check in the morning when I head to the aquarium room if you really need to know the exact measurements.
Thats an odd question, why you wanna know? For the spacers?
I picked up 1 1/4" spacer myself. Not sure if im going to use them, or 1.5" to allow more breathing room.