New 180g stand and canopy build - DIY How To

[scarecrow]

SnakeBlitz33, I only have a 30 gal tank and a friend of mine built me the stand it is nice but I was thinking once I know what I'm doing with this saltwater hobby and stop killing everything it would be very cool to have a stand with a see through top so that you could look under your tank and see what's happening down there! Do you think that is something that could be done ?

 

[snakeblitz33]

Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/393760/new-180g-stand-and-canopy-build-diy-how-to/20#post_3505136
Looks good Seth.....Good progress today....What color are you painting......
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///t/393760/new-180g-stand-and-canopy-build-diy-how-to/20#post_3505138
Nice write up, Seth. The trim work is looking good.

Thanks guys. I appreciate all of the positive comments. Looking forward to getting this thing done so that I can concentrate on my own wood projects!

 

[snakeblitz33]

Quote:
Originally Posted by scarecrow http:///t/393760/new-180g-stand-and-canopy-build-diy-how-to/40#post_3505155
SnakeBlitz33, I only have a 30 gal tank and a friend of mine built me the stand it is nice but I was thinking once I know what I'm doing with this saltwater hobby and stop killing everything it would be very cool to have a stand with a see through top so that you could look under your tank and see what's happening down there! Do you think that is something that could be done ?
A see through top? Sure, for a glass tank that would be easy. As simple as not putting a piece of plywood on top of the frame. lol.

 

[snakeblitz33]

A good carpenter always starts out with a design on paper. No matter how much experience you have, it's always best to draw it out first and write down a few quick measurements to get started.

In this case, I wanted the doors to have a 1/2" overlap in all directions. Therefore, I had to add 1" to my inside frame of the cabinet. In this case, it turns out that I needed the frame of the door to be 17 1/2 by 19 1/2" on the outside and for each style and rail to be cut at a 45D angle so that they fit together. The reason why they have to be cut at a 45D angle is for all of the routing design to have a nice, clean edge.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Ok, so there is more to it than just the photo, but you get a basic idea.

I can't tell if this is a style or a rail from the pic. The styles are the ones that measure 19 1/2" and the rails are the 17 1/2". Don't ask me why they are called that. From the picture, you can see that I took an entire 10ft board and routed it with a Roman Ogee on one side - which will be the inside and the outside part of the face frame of the door. Then, you can see that I cut out a slot in the board (you can see it on the left side edge of the pic) that measures 1/4" deep by 3/16" wide. These measurements are important because the board that we are going to slide into the style and rails is 3/16" wide. We need 1/4" to hold the inside ply in place.
Here's a tip:
Once you cut all of the styles and rails out, after you have cut them with a router... put the same lengths together. Then, clamp them together with a couple pieces of scrap wood, as to not damage the frame with the clamp. You want one side completely even, so tap it with a flat board until it is, then clamp it down tight. You will definitely find indescrepencies in the length. After you have them clamped together, take it over to the belt sander. Run it on the belt sander until it is completely even and smooth. While your at it, also lightly sand the other side until it is also smooth and even. This ensures that your entire frame will go together perfectly. If you don't do this step, your frame will most likely be crooked.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Once you have run it on a table saw to cut the slot, make absolutely sure it gets a really tight fit. Cutting the slot will require a lot of time and attention to detail. Measurements have to be very precise and sometimes you will even have to use your common sense while cutting the slot. Be sure you hold on to it pretty tight and don't let it go. Once you have tested the slot on a test piece of scrap wood, move on to a real finished piece of frame so you aren't damaging one of your hopefully finished pieces. ALWAYS buy enough wood where you can have one or two extra pieces of frame because more than likely you will have to re-do a style or rail. In my case, I didn't. I just got lucky. lol. Anyways, make sure that your slot fits on the wood really tight.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Once you have all of your styles and rails cut to perfection, prepare it to be cut by the miter saw. Since you are now dealing with a groove on one edge, you have to pay careful attention to which 45D cut your making. The groove has to be on the inside of the frame - so set your miter saw at a 45D angle and make sure you are following your diagram. Make sure you are cutting very carefully and make sure that the saw is only cutting from the tip of the corner of the correct style or rail. Don't cut off more of the tip - or any for that matter. On the other hand, don't leave more of the edge on there then what is necessary either.
Here's a tip:
Once you get the styles and rails cut with the miter saw, go back and clamp then all together again with two wood scraps like you did eariler, and go ahead and briefly run it on a belt sander again to make sure that they are perfect. Perfection, in this case is the name of the game.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Dry fit them together and see what kind of gaps you are dealing with - and what kind of imperfections. Some imperfections should be found and rectified at this point. Other times, an imperfection at this point could be a sign of being by two hardworking hands who has something to be proud of. But, they should go together pretty flush either way.

 

[snakeblitz33]

I probably shouldn't be clamping the door frame to the top of the aquarium stand, but I am limited on space and no one is going to look underneath the lip of the stand for imperfections. Besides, it is getting a second coat of paint anyways.
What I did before the picture, was put two pocket holes on the inside of the frame on the rails. You can put pocket holes in the styles without any problems, but I chose the rails.
Once you have your pocket holes drilled, go ahead and run a power sander over it to get off any burrs that the drill made. Then, clamp your styles and rails to something sturdy, make sure they are as flush as they can be and then put a screw in it. Do the same for the other side. Only put three sides together at this point. I typically leave off a rail... and this is because you have to slide the 3/16" plywood down into the groove.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Before this picture was taken:
I cut the 3/16" plywood. You measure the inside of the frame - both length and width.and then add 1/2" to it. The inside of my frame here was 10 1/2" by 12 1/2" so I cut out two pieces of 3/16" plywood into 11x13" pieces. Why you cut it out 1/2" wider than the inside of the frame instead of 1/4" is because your slots on either side measure 1/4" each - and you need your plywood to be wide enough to fit into both slots, so you cut it out 1/2" wider.
Once your plywood is cut, and your style and rails are in place, slide the plywood into the groove and then clamp it on the table again and screw it together. NO WOOD GLUE REQUIRED!
After all of that is done,... your not ready to paint yet. Go ahead and sand the front and the back down again with 150 grit sandpaper, then blow it off with an air compressor and THEN you're ready to paint.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/393760/new-180g-stand-and-canopy-build-diy-how-to#post_3503646
Again looks very good Seth......I hope Santa puts a router in your stocking bud.....Would make your work easier......
It's kinda funny that you said this... my dad ended up buying me a router for Christmas. LOL!!!! I didn't even ask for one. lol Kinda funny coincidence.

 

[snakeblitz33]

A note about painting...
After you put on your first coat of paint, clean your brush out thoroughly. Never paint when it to too cold, and never leave paint out in freezing conditions. Once the first coat has dried, lightly hand sand it down with some 220 grit sandpaper. This is because the wood fibers like to really stand up after the first coat. So, what you are really doing is lightly knocking them back down again and getting ready for the second, smoother coat of paint. When you start your second coat of paint, you will have a nice, clean brush that can make smoother, cleaner strokes and no lines. Use enough paint to cover the material, and never overbrush it. Once it is coated, move on and let the paint level itself out. Always take care of any drips while it is wet, and if it dries, you can always go back with a knife and sandpaper and smooth over those parts.

 

[acrylic51]

Looks good Seth.....Just built a couple doors that way for my granddaughters doll dresser......

 

[snakeblitz33]

So, slap another finish coat of black anywhere you see the primer or bare wood - and over the top of what you lightly sanded with 220 grit sandpaper. Make sure the doors get a good coat on it back and front.
When you mount the hinges on the doors, put the doors back to back and line them up so that the hinges go on there evenly spaced. Crooked looking hinges on a stand make everything look "off." When mounting the doors to the cabinet, I used a 3/4" piece of scrap plywood to evenly space it from the bottom trim and I went ahead and screwed a magnetic holder into place. So, when you hold the door up, the magnetic catch at the top will keep it from falling on you while you are trying to screw in the hinges to the cabinet. Try to not make mistakes. Putting multiple screw holes in the cabinet face for the doors makes it look amateurish.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Drill in holes in the correct spots in the doors... I like to drill the hole from the outside in, so that there isn't a whole lot of wood "chippage" on the outside. Another way to do it, if you are concerned with the way it looks on the inside as well is to clamp a piece of scrap wood on the inside (and outside if you want to be really safe) and drill your holes. To find where the hole needs to be, measure it with a square, and then square it with the top of the door.

 

[acrylic51]

Looks good Seth......European hinges on the next one.......

 

[acrylic51]

Actually the next one I wanna see European hinges and either arched or cathedral doors.......

 

[snakeblitz33]

Remember the bookshelf and back spacers that we cut and screwed into place? Well, ... I didn't take pictures of it, but I used a 5mm drill and drilled two holes in each side of the bookshelf and pushed in some simple book shelf mounts. Once you get your initial measurements, you can drill more holes up and down the inside of the cabinet for different levels your bookcase shelf can set at. I personally chose to split the difference and set it at 10" from the bottom.
The book shelf is completely removeable - and so is the back of the bookshelf case. The back can be removed to expose the hidden storage.
So, that's pretty much it for the stand.... Nothing but cleaning it up and touching it up. I'm going to blow it off again with the air compressor and clean my space up a bit more that I am working in.
As a side note, my dad also bought me a table saw for Christmas... so I suspect that he wants to get me off his back porch for doing all the wood work. lol!

 

[snakeblitz33]

Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/393760/new-180g-stand-and-canopy-build-diy-how-to/40#post_3505605
Actually the next one I wanna see European hinges and either arched or cathedral doors.......

Bah! I just got the hang of this for now! I need more router bits and some specialized tools that I have no money for at the time being.
Right now I am trying to think of some kind of make-shift wood shop that I can make under my carport. lol. Something cheap and easy. I was thinking of putting the woodwork on some kind of portable light weight wood table and some saw horses... and have a couple 28" high saw horses for other work like canopies. THEN on top of that, I have to have some kind of cabinet to keep everything locked up TIGHT - and a motion sensor light to try to keep it safe at night. I live in a good neighborhood, but I always worry about thieves.

 

[snakeblitz33]

I also think that this design is pretty dang simple, and pretty adaptable. It looks really good in person. Very professional looking...
Like I said, I will have to get some more tools and stuff to actually do the stuff that I want to do. Though, it seems like I am gathering tools here and there the last three weeks. Heck, now I have my own router and table saw. I bought my own jig saw, 1/4 sander and another drill driver. I also bought a 25' extension cord today. So, I am accumulating some stuff.