New 36 gallon bow front.

jay0705

Well-Known Member
Aquarium air tube and a food grade bucket or large bowl. All you do is start a shiphon and tie a knot in the tubing. U want it to slowly drip water from your tank into the container w the fish. Once the salinity matches your good to go.
Now myself i float the bag in my tank. Check bag salinity vs my tank and slowly add water to match salinty that way.
 

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
Since mine all go into a quarantine. I have the QT ready at 1.026 SG but only about 3/4 full I then float the bag to equalize temp. In a perfect world the fish would all be in water at 1.026. This is rarely the case though often they are in a much lower specific gravity at the store or wholesaler. I measure the specific gravity of the water the fish came in, then adjust the QT to that SG. Once they are equal I remove the fish from the bag, none of the water, and put in QT tank. If I bought the fish on line I add a bit of Prime to the water in the bag as soon as I open it to detoxify the ammonia built up in the bag. I find it easier to adjust my QT to match the bag then I can adjust the SG over a few days until it is where I want it to be.
 
What's the prime? Ok I think I got what you are saying about matching the bag. How big is your QT tank? Cause I have a ten gallon tank just sitting here with a quietflow 10 or 20 just waiting to be used.
 
Also for your first fish did you just put it into the main tank or did your qT him also before placement. And do you treat the fish for anything and everything that might be wrong while he is in the QT even if he seems to be healthy?

Would you be able to provide a list of the "medications" you use for that?
 

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
I do something called tank transfer method. Where I transfer the fish into a different sterile tank every 72 hours for a total of 5 transfers. No meds involved. This eliminates ich. I also treat with 2 rounds of prazi pro which takes care of flukes and worms. The rest of the 30 day QT time I just observe. If something like velvet crops up I treat with copper and the QT is extended. To 30 days after treatment began. Every single fish goes through this with the goal of no diseases getting into the tank. I don't extend that to include corals and other invers, some do.
 
So on the canister filter cleaning. Once a week. Should I have a specific bucket to rinse and clean everything with? Set to the side for this specific purpose?
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Definitely have specific container/buckets that are only used for tank maintenance etc.

I used to run my old 55g with dual canister filters. I cleaned one every other week so I wasn't disturbing as much of the biological filtration.

It seemed to work ok. Both filters were rated for slightly bigger tanks.
 
Hey guys back again. Want to thank you for all the advice. I decided I'm gonna go with 20 gallon sump with a 40 gallon display tank. My protien slimmer I was thinking about the hydor slim slim nano protien skimmer. In the refuge I'm I was going to use the macroalgae (cheato) or however it's spelled. Also along with display I'm going to use half live and half dry aragonite since it's courser and cheaper really. As for a light I'm probably looking at your regular light that would come with the set for right now. Please tell me what you guys think as I've been taking into account what you guys have given so far.
 

one-fish

Active Member
If you plan to build your own sump unless you are proficient at it have someone cut your glass, it will save you time and headaches, lesson learned. Going to need a return pump and overflow (s) and plumbing, in your planning footprint make sure all your equipiment has ample space. LR or Live sand your option. The lighting will not necessarly be needed during the cycling period, its usually cheaper to buy them once instead of twice.
 

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
I always use acrylic (plexiglass) for my sump baffles. I cut it on my table saw and I put together with aquarium safe silicone. It works very well. I just built a 40 gallon sump a week and a half ago. I've been using my old sump for years.
I spent $30 on 1/4 inch acrylic (or just under 1/4 inch). I'd never try glass, I tend to break things.
If you haven't bought them yet use the 20 gallon long tank not the other one. Way easier to work in and has more room for equipment or macroalgae. I heard the the ***** dollar a gallon sale starts toward the end of the month. It may just be a rumor but worth investigating.
 
Yes I was planning on building a sump myself. Not that hard at all. I was also planning on doing the panels that the refugium sits in between black. That way I can focus light in the refugium and I have less of a chance of having algae growing anywhere else. Preventative measure. I like you Imforbis am going to use plexi as cut at these measurements bowing and bending isn't going to be to much of an issue. No the 20 gallon I haven't bought yet. I knew the dollar a gallon sale was coming up so I was waiting for that to start before I purchased. Also I have a 10 gallon tank left over from my freshwater tank I took down. So I'm going to be using that as a quarantine tank. The question I have in regards to QT tank is is it easier to set up once or set up every time I have to or need it. Yes I am doing one fish at a time. The lighting is basic I'm getting the 40 gallon kit from pet smart as it's the same price as my wife's 36 bow front.
 

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
What is included in the 40 gallon kit?

I don't keep my QT set up all the time. 10 gallon is a great QT size. You might want it up all the time initially so it is ready when you need it. I haven't added any fish for over a year so no need to keep it up and running. Plus I like to start with a sterile QT tank.

A couple methods I've heard of people using to get biological filtration in a new QT are:
Place several sponge filters in the sump, the kind powered by an air pump. This allows the bacteria to colonize the sponge. When you need it you just fill up the QT and pull one of the sponges out of the sump and you are good to go.
Soak the same kind sponges in bottled bacteria for a couple hours before you add them to the tank.
In both cases I'd toss the sponge after I move the fish and start new.
Sea Chem sells an ammonia alert badge that you attach to the inside wall of the tank. This lets you check ammonia at a glance. Very helpful.
 
The 40 gallon set up comes with everything needed that a regular 20 gallon kit comes with. Which the main reasoning behind the kit is the hood that comes with it. Things aren't cheaper and it's cheaper to do the kit then buy separately. But the air pump and sponges how does that work?
 
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