New 75g Reef Tank
- Thread starter snakeblitz33
- Start date
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
It will be very hard to reach. I'm looking at alternative placements for the side cabinet plumbing.
silverado61
Well-Known Member
- I put my valve inside the stand over the fuge. It would been impossible to reach otherwise.
eric b 125
Active Member
A few things: B.A.'s really should not have horizontal runs of plumbing in order for them to work properly. Some people get away with it and other folks have to re-do their plumbing after realizing it won't work on their system.
I think you should move the gate valve down as far as you can towards your sump...the siphon will start much quicker that way.
Also, you will want to build a "shelf" for the plumbing to help relieve some of the weight from the overflow box.
Just my .02. These were all things that were brought to my attention when I did bot of my B.A.s
I think you should move the gate valve down as far as you can towards your sump...the siphon will start much quicker that way.
Also, you will want to build a "shelf" for the plumbing to help relieve some of the weight from the overflow box.
Just my .02. These were all things that were brought to my attention when I did bot of my B.A.s
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Nope. The gate valve is what dials in the siphon on the bean animal overflow to make it silent. The box on the back is a drain box for the overflow.
The ball valve is on the return line and is supposed to be feeding the refugium, but I'm really tight on the amount of room I have to work with and can't put it there. I'll have to figure out where I want to put it if I am to have a fuge.
The ball valve is on the return line and is supposed to be feeding the refugium, but I'm really tight on the amount of room I have to work with and can't put it there. I'll have to figure out where I want to put it if I am to have a fuge.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
The gate valve is very easy to access from behind the tank. I've already tested it. I also tested it to fit underneath the tank on that horizontal piece, but it was just a pain to try to adjust it from underneath. This way I feel is much better.
Tonight I'll be cementing in the drain plumbing and continue working on the return plumbing. Hopefully I can get the stand and everything figured out soon.
Tonight I'll be cementing in the drain plumbing and continue working on the return plumbing. Hopefully I can get the stand and everything figured out soon.
bang guy
Moderator
OK, I see now. I'm just not used to adding the refugium to the return.
For the ball valves I have on my pool I built a wrench of sorts to turn them. Maybe you could make something like that to help turn that ball valve. I used about 3' of 2" PVC with a "T" at the top and 6" of PVC on each side of the "T" for a handle. At the other end of the pipe I cut 3/4" slots so the pipe could fit over the ball valve handle. Make it really easy to turn the ball valve. If you made one long enough it could reach from behind the top of the aquarium. For a 1: ball valve perhaps 1.5" or 1.25" PVC would be big enough to straddle the valve.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
That's a really cool idea. Thanks Guy!
I got to take home some tools from work so I can get the rest of the plumbing done. I'll be happy once I get the plumbing done. I really want to fill it up with tap and test it a few times but I figure that would be a lot of work emptying it out. I'll just have to wait for now.
It would be nice to get the base rock all fixed up and in place how I like it and be able to mix the saltwater ten gallons at a time in the mixing container.
I guess I forgot just how much time and work goes into one of these systems. Lol- it's like fixing a motorcycle or writing a book- it just takes time, money and work.
I got to take home some tools from work so I can get the rest of the plumbing done. I'll be happy once I get the plumbing done. I really want to fill it up with tap and test it a few times but I figure that would be a lot of work emptying it out. I'll just have to wait for now.
It would be nice to get the base rock all fixed up and in place how I like it and be able to mix the saltwater ten gallons at a time in the mixing container.
I guess I forgot just how much time and work goes into one of these systems. Lol- it's like fixing a motorcycle or writing a book- it just takes time, money and work.
silverado61
Well-Known Member
Didn't you buy a motorcycle? What ever happened with that?
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Yep. I bought a motorcycle. I got to working on it and the engine was seized. So I sold it for more than I bought it for. The people I bought it from couldn't even find the title, so I sold it for parts. I would be buying a new repair bike soon enough but my money is going toward getting this tank started right now.
Apparently when you dispute a charge on your credit card because the seller never delivered the product- it makes YOUR credit score go down. Ticks me off.
Apparently when you dispute a charge on your credit card because the seller never delivered the product- it makes YOUR credit score go down. Ticks me off.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Well,
I took a really good long look at the side cabinet system with the three ten gallon tanks, one being a water change tank, another being a refugium and the last being a reservoir for the ATO. I looked really hard, I thought about it really hard and I am going to forgo the side system.
I'l buy a 2.5g tank to fit inside the stand for the ato reservoir with the float valve in it. I will set up the center of the sump to be a refugium with a shallow sand bed and put the skimmer in the first chamber. The carbon/GFO reactor will fit on the side of the sump and the kalkwasser stirrer will have to fit somewhere in there as well. I'll have enough room once I move some stuff around. This also means that I did lose some money by doing it this way first, but I'll be happier with it being more compact.
I'll still use one of the ten gallon tanks as a water mixing bucket.
It's just going to be way too hard to plumb it in such a small space and to keep it clean. Plus, as it is, its an eye sore. I want it to look clean and centered on the wall.
This weekend I'll get the 2.5g tank and sell some stuff on craigslist for extra money.
I took a really good long look at the side cabinet system with the three ten gallon tanks, one being a water change tank, another being a refugium and the last being a reservoir for the ATO. I looked really hard, I thought about it really hard and I am going to forgo the side system.
I'l buy a 2.5g tank to fit inside the stand for the ato reservoir with the float valve in it. I will set up the center of the sump to be a refugium with a shallow sand bed and put the skimmer in the first chamber. The carbon/GFO reactor will fit on the side of the sump and the kalkwasser stirrer will have to fit somewhere in there as well. I'll have enough room once I move some stuff around. This also means that I did lose some money by doing it this way first, but I'll be happier with it being more compact.
I'll still use one of the ten gallon tanks as a water mixing bucket.
It's just going to be way too hard to plumb it in such a small space and to keep it clean. Plus, as it is, its an eye sore. I want it to look clean and centered on the wall.
This weekend I'll get the 2.5g tank and sell some stuff on craigslist for extra money.
eric b 125
Active Member
Keep up the good work Seth!
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
This morning I'll be moving some things around and gettin the tank centered. I need to look into the cost of a vent cover and some curtains for the window.
I found that marco rocks has some pretty good deals and it looks like the shapes that I want. I feel too uncomfortable about the thought of using base rock I've had buried for a couple of years.
Going to pick up a 2.5g tank and put the float valve in it for the ATO reservoir. It should, with any luck, fit perfectly inside of the stand.
Can't a kalkwasser reactor be as simple as a small container with two holes in it that can seal tightly,... One airline goes to the bottom and one airline at the top that goes to the tank? Eh, I like to DIY but I'm reading reviews of the reactor I want and people are saying it's no good??
I found that marco rocks has some pretty good deals and it looks like the shapes that I want. I feel too uncomfortable about the thought of using base rock I've had buried for a couple of years.
Going to pick up a 2.5g tank and put the float valve in it for the ATO reservoir. It should, with any luck, fit perfectly inside of the stand.
Can't a kalkwasser reactor be as simple as a small container with two holes in it that can seal tightly,... One airline goes to the bottom and one airline at the top that goes to the tank? Eh, I like to DIY but I'm reading reviews of the reactor I want and people are saying it's no good??
bang guy
Moderator
I used a couple of 7 gallon IO salt buckets.
Bucket 1 was the RO water reservoir. A hole in the side of the bucket for a float valve, had to seal with silicon. Two holes in the the lid, one out to the second bucket and the other for a slow vinegar drip into the RO water (optional). The seal on this lid was not airtight. The float valve in this bucket actually controlled the water level in the sump. Lower this bucket and the water level in the sump would lower as water evaporated. Raise this bucket and the water level in the sump would rise.
Bucket 2 held limewater. Lid had two holes one was rigid airline tubing for the input RO water that went 3/4 down into the bucket, the other was waterline tubing that went to a float in the sump. The float held the tubing above the water in the sump (important). The lid on this bucket was airtight.
Once a month I would replace the vinegar jug, completely clean out bucket 2, and add 2 cups of lime. I used agricultural lime so it was important for me not to use the stuff on the bottom.
Keep in mind this was for a 1000 gallon system. You might want to downsize the buckets for your application.
Bucket 1 was the RO water reservoir. A hole in the side of the bucket for a float valve, had to seal with silicon. Two holes in the the lid, one out to the second bucket and the other for a slow vinegar drip into the RO water (optional). The seal on this lid was not airtight. The float valve in this bucket actually controlled the water level in the sump. Lower this bucket and the water level in the sump would lower as water evaporated. Raise this bucket and the water level in the sump would rise.
Bucket 2 held limewater. Lid had two holes one was rigid airline tubing for the input RO water that went 3/4 down into the bucket, the other was waterline tubing that went to a float in the sump. The float held the tubing above the water in the sump (important). The lid on this bucket was airtight.
Once a month I would replace the vinegar jug, completely clean out bucket 2, and add 2 cups of lime. I used agricultural lime so it was important for me not to use the stuff on the bottom.
Keep in mind this was for a 1000 gallon system. You might want to downsize the buckets for your application.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
I think I'll use the two little fishies kalk reactor in a ten gallon tank with a maxjet 1200 powerhead and just monitor it to keep it clean and unclogged.
I have to clean my wife's car this afternoon before I can work on tank stuff. Lol. Ugh,... Other obligations. Lol
I have to clean my wife's car this afternoon before I can work on tank stuff. Lol. Ugh,... Other obligations. Lol
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
I found out that if I buy a plastic tote, I should buy one that has either a 2, 4, or 5 in the triangle, so that it won't leach any chemicals.
I'll try to find a tote I alreDy own first.
I'll try to find a tote I alreDy own first.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
I know you have don't a lot with limewater and appreciate all of your advice!
I think I will get the two little fishies kalk stirrer afterall. They say that after a while it has trouble stirring, but that shouldn't be much of an issue.
Technology and chemicals have evolved a lot since I got in the hobby nearly ten years ago this year. I'm very impressed with all of the advances and I'm looking forward to what the next ten years will bring. That being said; I found Brightwell aquatics came up with a kalkwasser solution called Kalk+2 which has the right amount of magnesium and strontium added to it's well. I think I'm going to try it out instead of using my usual pickling lime.
I think I will get the two little fishies kalk stirrer afterall. They say that after a while it has trouble stirring, but that shouldn't be much of an issue.
Technology and chemicals have evolved a lot since I got in the hobby nearly ten years ago this year. I'm very impressed with all of the advances and I'm looking forward to what the next ten years will bring. That being said; I found Brightwell aquatics came up with a kalkwasser solution called Kalk+2 which has the right amount of magnesium and strontium added to it's well. I think I'm going to try it out instead of using my usual pickling lime.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
So far the incoming TDS is only 340-360. it can be much worse than that.