New Tank Baby!
- Thread starter valgae
- Start date
acrylic51
Active Member
I take it that the (2) smaller bulkheads and smaller PVC line is for your return? I'm also assuming that the bigger bulkheads and PVC are for your drains? The only thing I noticed was the extra ball valve on the big line which really wouldn't be need IMO.....but looks good.
mojo46825
Member
The only things I see are that if your checks fail and the power goes out you most likely will havea little flood. And I am not sure what you are doing on the return end but you will most likely get a lot of turbulance. Depending on the amount of flow. It may not be too bad being you went with a larger returns.
scopus tang
Active Member
Originally Posted by morval
http:///forum/post/2560761
looks like sweet setup but i would turn the whole tank around to see it without all the plumbing.
Hey no fair, that was going to be my comment, but you beat me to it
.
Maybe you are already planning on doing so, but be sure and wet test with water prior to rockwork, mixing salt, etc. Also cut power and make sure as was stated earlier, that your drains are set so you don't get a flood. Otherwise, looks good.
http:///forum/post/2560761
looks like sweet setup but i would turn the whole tank around to see it without all the plumbing.
Hey no fair, that was going to be my comment, but you beat me to it
Maybe you are already planning on doing so, but be sure and wet test with water prior to rockwork, mixing salt, etc. Also cut power and make sure as was stated earlier, that your drains are set so you don't get a flood. Otherwise, looks good.
valgae
Member
Originally Posted by VALgae
http:///forum/post/2560746
when accounting for lift does the elbow on the return pump count? i was thinking about using a mag 12 which puts me at 1130 gph at 4', 1150gph at
3',
anyone?
http:///forum/post/2560746
when accounting for lift does the elbow on the return pump count? i was thinking about using a mag 12 which puts me at 1130 gph at 4', 1150gph at
3',
anyone?
valgae
Member
ITS DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Well this was my first tank being drilled and doing my own plumbing. man what an experience. ok so.......
problem #1
the bulkheads are leaking. is there any kinda of wrench to help tighten these i did use nylon thread. i know they're on right. not leaking from the washer leaking through the threading. silicone maybe?
problem #2
how much did yall have to tinker w/ your tanks before intake=output. messed w it for 2 hours last night. the ball valves are so tight that i either turn them too much or not enough. there ia a ball on the return but dont want to throttle back the pump. realy not a problem. more just a PIA. k time for pics!
oh yeah i have no bubbles going back in even w/o any thing breaking the drain water.
Well this was my first tank being drilled and doing my own plumbing. man what an experience. ok so.......
problem #1
the bulkheads are leaking. is there any kinda of wrench to help tighten these i did use nylon thread. i know they're on right. not leaking from the washer leaking through the threading. silicone maybe?
problem #2
how much did yall have to tinker w/ your tanks before intake=output. messed w it for 2 hours last night. the ball valves are so tight that i either turn them too much or not enough. there ia a ball on the return but dont want to throttle back the pump. realy not a problem. more just a PIA. k time for pics!
oh yeah i have no bubbles going back in even w/o any thing breaking the drain water.
jdl
Member
Originally Posted by VALgae
http:///forum/post/2577739
ok well added a ball valve above the union, on the return, in case i need to disconnect. ALSO GOT THE MOST BEAUTIFUL THING IN THE WORLD LEFT ON MY DOORSTEP TODAY!!!!!!!!!!!
you run a mag 18 on a 65g tank?
Try a pipe wrench to tighten your bulkheads with the threaded pipe. Did you only hand tighten them?
also, if you didnt change your ball valves above your unions yet, you can buy ball valve unions as one unit from home depot/lowes. Makes it easier and then can take things apart from either end.
http:///forum/post/2577739
ok well added a ball valve above the union, on the return, in case i need to disconnect. ALSO GOT THE MOST BEAUTIFUL THING IN THE WORLD LEFT ON MY DOORSTEP TODAY!!!!!!!!!!!
you run a mag 18 on a 65g tank?
Try a pipe wrench to tighten your bulkheads with the threaded pipe. Did you only hand tighten them?
also, if you didnt change your ball valves above your unions yet, you can buy ball valve unions as one unit from home depot/lowes. Makes it easier and then can take things apart from either end.
scsinet
Active Member
I gotta agree with an earlier poster on there... that check valve concerns me for 2 reasons...
First, all check valves will fail sooner or later. I'll put this out there to drive the point home: every single check valve I have ever used has failed.
Second, the particular style you used uses a spring (rather than an internal flapper). The spring puts significant head pressure against the pump that will result in a flow reduction, and the spring mechanism is even more prone to jamming than the flapper style, and with the opaque housing, you have no way of knowing if the mechanism is gunked up.
I strongly suggest at the very minimum replacing that check valve with the clear body flapper style you can get from most major online aquatics houses. Even better would be to run a small pipe up over the water line with an endcap and small hole drilled to allow air to enter the system in the event of a power loss. With your returns located so far below the waterline, you will have tens of gallons of water on the floor should your checkvalve fail and the pump lose power.
First, all check valves will fail sooner or later. I'll put this out there to drive the point home: every single check valve I have ever used has failed.
Second, the particular style you used uses a spring (rather than an internal flapper). The spring puts significant head pressure against the pump that will result in a flow reduction, and the spring mechanism is even more prone to jamming than the flapper style, and with the opaque housing, you have no way of knowing if the mechanism is gunked up.
I strongly suggest at the very minimum replacing that check valve with the clear body flapper style you can get from most major online aquatics houses. Even better would be to run a small pipe up over the water line with an endcap and small hole drilled to allow air to enter the system in the event of a power loss. With your returns located so far below the waterline, you will have tens of gallons of water on the floor should your checkvalve fail and the pump lose power.
valgae
Member
Originally Posted by JDL
http:///forum/post/2579979
you run a mag 18 on a 65g tank?
Try a pipe wrench to tighten your bulkheads with the threaded pipe. Did you only hand tighten them?
also, if you didnt change your ball valves above your unions yet, you can buy ball valve unions as one unit from home depot/lowes. Makes it easier and then can take things apart from either end.
18 ON 65 YEA 1800/65+ about 4' of head put me at about 23x flow per hr. yes i did use a pipe wrench to tighten everything its not leaking from the rubber part but through the threads. will check the valve out at lowes. i didnt see n e thing like that there but i will look again. site wouldnt post pics earlier going to try again
http:///forum/post/2579979
you run a mag 18 on a 65g tank?
Try a pipe wrench to tighten your bulkheads with the threaded pipe. Did you only hand tighten them?
also, if you didnt change your ball valves above your unions yet, you can buy ball valve unions as one unit from home depot/lowes. Makes it easier and then can take things apart from either end.
18 ON 65 YEA 1800/65+ about 4' of head put me at about 23x flow per hr. yes i did use a pipe wrench to tighten everything its not leaking from the rubber part but through the threads. will check the valve out at lowes. i didnt see n e thing like that there but i will look again. site wouldnt post pics earlier going to try again
