New Tank fish died

[gemmy]

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/387936/new-tank-fish-died#post_3417613
I've never used a clamp, maybe a gang valve for precision control... Most of the time I just tie a knot in the airline tube until it drips at the rate I want it to. I guess I'm just cheap. lol!
I use the knot method as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by deejeff442 http:///t/387936/new-tank-fish-died#post_3417604
this is what i do.i get the fish home .i get a bucket put the fish and all the water he came with in it.then add a couple cupps of water from the tank he will go in.go buy a 1/8 inch tube (home depot) and a spring clamp to crimp the tube .suck on the tube till it gets flowing the put the clamp on the tank and adjust it till it drips.let it go for 2 hours .
No need to suck on the tubing when you can just place the tube in front of a power head (or anywhere there is direct water flowing). This way will get the water flowing in the tube. Maybe I'm just lazy.

 

[acrylic51]

I think the float/drip method mentioned is a bit flawed a bit......Flower is correct when she described the fish being in ammonia concentrated water regardless if buying from a LFS or having it shipped to you......The first question you might want to ask the seller is his/her salinity on the systems.....Don't just take their word on it; test it yourself to double check......Salinity and temp is important as mentioned....One thing that is missed IMO is the bag water parameters start to shift immediately after the water has air contact....The PH begins to shift....So in my mind keeping the little guy in the bag and slowly adding water over a period of time more than a 30 minutes might do more harm than good.

 

[jburgi]

Did you acclimate the urchin the same as the fish? Now PLEASE correct me if I am incorrect, but I was told that an urchin cannot touch air. I floated mine, then released him underwater straight out of the bag (the only time I have mixed my water).
The drip tube that I have has a a valve with a nob so I can speed up or slow down the drip. It works great

 

[coco62]

Actually the urchin came in my live rock and I didn't know it. So no, I just placed it in the tank and added the water. Not any particular temperature and it was never cycled. amazed it lived for 2 days. Unfortunately, I managed to kill it. I am reading so much on this site that I would never do that again. From now on ask lots of questions and learn first. I think then it may save me loss of animals.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by jburgi http:///t/387936/new-tank-fish-died/20#post_3419647
Did you acclimate the urchin the same as the fish? Now PLEASE correct me if I am incorrect, but I was told that an urchin cannot touch air. I floated mine, then released him underwater straight out of the bag (the only time I have mixed my water).
The drip tube that I have has a a valve with a nob so I can speed up or slow down the drip. It works great
You are incorrect, to my knowledge, the only critter that must never touch air is a sponge.

 

[bang guy]

Flower's right but with a caution. Being in air for a short time isn't going to harm an Urchin but sometimes a bubble can get trapped on the mouth. This is harmful and the urchin can't get rid of the bubble on its own. So, when you're placing an urchin in the tank be sure to turn it upside down to allow any trapped air to escape. The Urchin will have no trouble righting itself.
Urchins are very sensitive to salinity changes, especially when salinity is quickly dropped. There have been times where a hard rain in shallow water has caused mass deaths of Urchins. It's also a spawning trigger for them so they can spawn just before they die from osmotic shock.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bang Guy http:///t/387936/new-tank-fish-died/20#post_3419662
Flower's right but with a caution. Being in air for a short time isn't going to harm an Urchin but sometimes a bubble can get trapped on the mouth. This is harmful and the urchin can't get rid of the bubble on its own. So, when you're placing an urchin in the tank be sure to turn it upside down to allow any trapped air to escape. The Urchin will have no trouble righting itself.
Urchins are very sensitive to salinity changes, especially when salinity is quickly dropped. There have been times where a hard rain in shallow water has caused mass deaths of Urchins. It's also a spawning trigger for them so they can spawn just before they die from osmotic shock.
Wow, another new thing learned...I love this site!

 

[jburgi]

Thanks! I have been curious about that

 

[clown-keeper99]

but wouldn't the dead urchine stuff that dies on the rocks cause enough ammonia to start the cycle?
thats what I did when I started my tank

 

[coco62]

I have been testing my water daily and it has cycled and my levels have dropped back to 0 and I added 2 peppermint shrimp, an emerald crab, a red leg hermit and a turbo crab. I have a 22 gallon tank with live rock and live sand. I have a limpet snail that came in on my lr and hidden cup coral. All critters are doing well and levels remain good.
I did my first water change today and everything looks pretty good. I'm on my way to the lfs today to get a tester for calcium and phosphate. My pH is running at 8 and I would like to see it a touch higher. I was reading a thread and it said I need to discover the cause of the lowered ph. I have some white powdery looking stuff stuck to my glass and on the uptake of the canister filter. Any ideas on what it might be?
I also discovered I have a pistol shrimp or a mantis shrimp that came in on my lr. It's about an inch long and it made a loud snapping noise when my emerald crab got too close. It actually made me jump when it happened. I'm hoping it is a pistol shrimp and not a mantis.
Everyone on this site has been so helpful I just wanted to update everyone. Also, I'd like opinions on when you all think it will be OK to add 2 clowns. I trust the opinions here.
I eventually want to have the 2 clowns, 1 goby shrimp combo, and 1 or 2 other small peaceful fish. Is that an acceptable load do you think? and what would you suggest.
I am such an addict now. I have been looking at bigger tanks already. I won't set one up for at least 6 months because I still am learning so much and I need to learn about sumps and refugiums and other stuff. It can't hurt to look though can it?

 

[bang guy]

What I would do is ghost feed the tank for about a week. I will assume you are not interested in a quaranteen tank to make sure you don't introduce disease. It is advisable but admittedly most people with smaller tanks skip this vital step.
If after ghost feeding the ammonia level stays at 0.0ppm then I do not see any issue with adding a couple of Clownfish. If ammonia jumps at all then the bacterial colonies are not stable and I would wait an additional week but continue the daily ghost feeding. When ghost feeding, add about the same amount of food you would feed if there were two Clownfish in there.
22 gallons is a tad small for many Clownfish species but just fine for A. percula or A. ocellaris.
The Shrimp/Goby pair sounds great.
By small peaceful fish, Neon Gobies or Clown Gobies are great as are Barnacle Blennies.

 

[coco62]

Thanks that's what I needed to know. I am going to get the water tested at the lfs. I just tested the water and I noticed a trace of ammonia. not up to .25 but up a little I think. I have been feeding a small amount of food to my cuc because I am afraid they won't have enough to eat. The Turbo snail is everywhere as is the emerald crab and peppermint shrimp. I don't want to overfeed though. I'm not sure how much to even feed 2 osc clowns. Do I need to feed the Hidden Cup Coral? I looked at tons of pictures and finally came to the conclusion that that is what I have. Any and all advice would be appreciated.

 

[coco62]

Actually I am thinking of getting a small 10 gallon to use as a qt. Will look today.

 

[bang guy]

Yes, if you want to keep the Phyllangia you will need to feed it. Any small pieces of seafood will work.