Newbie...

Jason Magliaro

New Member
Setting up a saltwater tank and I'm curious what I need. Looking at a 50 gallon tank and a guy told me I will need to drill holes to mount bulkheads to and run PVC pipe and he kind of lost me there... Is that necessary to maintain a solid tank?

Thanks in advance!
 

pegasus

Well-Known Member
It isn't necessary to drill tanks for bulkheads, although it is my preference. The only reason you would need to drill a tank is if you intend to use a sump or refugium to house a skimmer and/or macro algae (respectively). I highly recommend a sump or refugium, as it will add extra water to the total volume of the tank. More water means better stability. That said, there are other options if you choose to, or not to, use a sump or refugium. There are overflows that can be mounted to the tank which use a siphon to carry the water over the side of the tank, and there are hang on back (HOB) skimmers and refugiums that can be mounted on the back of the tank. The advantage of drilling the tank and using bulkheads is that it takes less space, and IMO, looks neater. All you can see are the (preferably two - one in each back corner) bulkheads and tubes that carry the water down to the sump/refugium. As far as return line(s), the same applies. You can use a "U" , which hangs over the back of the tank with a splitter or flare to return the water. Again, I prefer it to be drilled, as it looks neater. It's easy to drill a tank. You just need to know what size bulkheads you are going to use, and buy an inexpensive diamond dust hole saw. Water to keep the saw and glass cool, and an electric drill (cordless highly recommended). I've drilled several tanks, but as with anything pertaining to glass, there's always a risk of trashing your tank... but slow and careful drilling will result in success every time. There are several option available, but it all boils down to what you want.
 
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jay0705

Well-Known Member
I agree w pegasus. You don't need it no. None of my 3 tanks are drilled. However the new tank iam getting will be. Its just a cleaner look. Personal preference tho
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Hi,

If you want a sump, drill the tank, it will save you a world of hassles. If you don't want a sump system, there is no need to bother. Canister filters, and hang on the back work just fine for fish only systems. If you plan to get into corals they work for that too, but the extra volume and a refugium will go a long way to a better looking, healthier reef setup.

By the way, welcome to the site!
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lmforbis

Well-Known Member
If you choose to drill make sure the glass on your tank is not tempered. You can't drill tempered glass. I have used an eshopps hang on the back overflow with no problems. My current display tank is Reef ready and came drilled. I love that but it isn't necessary.
I have a 40 gallon tank that I bought a few weeks ago to use as a quarantine tank for two tangs (I usually quarantine fish in a 20 gallon but these two were too big for that especially together). Once those fish are out of quarantine I plan to convert that tank into a display tank. I will use my old eshopps over flow for that tank and a sump/refugium that I already have.
Like Flower said you don't need to go that route at all. There are good hang on the back filters and skimmers. I maintained a reef tank for close to 13 years with a canister filter, a crappy hang on the back skimmer, and power heads. I only had soft coral but they grew great.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
I maintained a reef tank for close to 13 years with a canister filter, a crappy hang on the back skimmer, and power heads. I only had soft coral but they grew great.
Hi,

LOL... Finally another person with good things to say for a canister filter, I used one on my reef for over 14 years before I got a sump. At one point, I had a HOB skimmer, canister input and output tubes, GFO HOB reactor, Auto top off sensor, and even an in-tank refugium. There was absolutely no room to hang another thing back there.

The sump/refugium gave me a place to hide all that equipment. I used a CPR overflow box with a lifter pump... nothing but headaches with that lifter pump system. If I ever do another tank from scratch...it will be predrilled, the back painted, and started out with macroalgae.
 

deejeff0442

Active Member
I ran a 90 gallon for over 10 yrs with an overflow box to just a rubbermaid tote under it.all i had in the tote was the pump .heater and rock rubble.it was a reef tank.i had metal halide lights but just kept easy corals like shrooms and polyps.really the best looking and easiest tank i ever ran
 

bang guy

Moderator
If I ever do another tank from scratch...it will be predrilled, the back painted, and started out with macroalgae.
If you're talking about a new reef tank I would strongly recommend against starting it with macro algae. Very useful later once the system is stable and has excess phosphate but for startup it is very detrimental for a reef.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
If you're talking about a new reef tank I would strongly recommend against starting it with macro algae. Very useful later once the system is stable and has excess phosphate but for startup it is very detrimental for a reef.
Wow, I thought starting out with Macros in a sumps refugium chamber would be a good thing. How could it do any harm? I understand that macros can become very invasive if it's in a reefs display, but I really thought in the refugium it would be a huge plus... Can you (in real simple dummy terms) explain how it is detrimental? I learn so much here on the site. Beaslbob insists that starting out with macros is a good thing, LOL, I know folks don't like his methods of no water changes, but the macroalgae thing I figured he had right for sure.
 

bang guy

Moderator
Beaslbob's fish only tanks do fine. His reef tank crashed about once a year until he finally gave up. His corals never thrived based on the pictures he posted in the past. His reef system is the perfect evidence that starting with macro algae is a bad idea. If you want a reef tank that has a major issue about once a year then I encourage you to follow Beaslbob's methods to the letter.

Macro algae is very good at consuming ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, and phosphates. This is a good thing for an established reef tank. Unfortunately, it's efficient enough to degrade growing bacteria colonies. It will not outcompete existing stable bacteria colonies but it will outcompete a new undeveloped colony. So, the first time you have a hiccup in your macro there's no backup for consuming those nutrients and you're basically starting a new cycle. I've seen setups where even a good sized macro harvest damages corals. In addition, a lot of the reef animals we rely on to keep sand beds and live rock healthy need these bacteria the survive.

For an example in nature, take a trip to the Mediterranean in locations where macro algae has taken over. The sand is nasty, the rocks are dead, very few invertebrates exist, absolutely no coral, and even fish are sparse.

I've cycled dozens of systems myself and supervised many more dozens. I've already documented the method that has had the best long term results in my experience. If you have any questions on it I will be quite happy to explain and/or expand my description.
 

jay0705

Well-Known Member
Now bang. I feed macro to my tangs. It can be in there a day or a weeks. It seems to depend on the type how fast they eat it. Is this harmful?
 
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