Newby question.

locoyo386

Member
Originally Posted by natclanwy
http:///forum/post/2913202
I agree cleve's problem was due to excess CO2 not nitrogen gas, dissolved nitrogen won't effect the PH of the water where CO2 will. In stabilized saltwater the percentages of Nitrogen, Oxygen and CO2 will be the the same as air, 78%, 20.9%, and 0.033% respectively. As far a solubility is concerned though like spanko said nitrogen is half as soluble as oxygen, but CO2 is 1000 times more soluble than nitrogen or oxygen. In other words you can't really build up a significant amount of nitrogen or oxygen in saltwater over what is naturally present or at least not enough to be dangerous especially nitrogen since it is an inert gas. CO2 on the other hand readily dissolves into saltwater displacing oxygen and nitrogen and since CO2 is a reactive gas it forms carbonic acid in your tank lowering the PH.
As far as gases release from stirring a DSB I believe it is Hydrogen sulfide gas that is released from the sand bed which is formed when the denitrifying bacteria run out of nitrate while there is still decomposing organic matter and then some bacteria can use sulfate to metabolize organic matter and H2S is the byproduct. H2S is extremely toxic to your livestock and can cause mass die off if large quantities are released into your aquarium at once.
To get back to Locos topic,
Rock that is more porous or less dense has much more surface area than a dense rock will, and the pores do not necessarily need to be large they could be microscopic in size so even a piece of live rock that doesn't appear to have holes is usually covered in thousands of microscopic pores that water can diffuse through. Its through diffusion (I do beleive this is the correct word used) (diffusion isn't exactly the right word but I can't remember what the correct term is) that water is able to move deep inside the rock to anoxic areas of the rock where denitrification can occur. It is a similar process in a DSB but denser sand will form more anoxic areas then less dense sand allowing the sand bed to be shallower. In other words hypothetically lets say it takes 12" of crushed coral to form anoxic areas for denitration to occur, it would take maybe 3-4" of sugar sand to achieve the same amount of anoxic areas.
The outer surfaces of the LR is where the Nitrifying bacteria will reside and porous rock makes the surface of the rock more ruff increasing the surface area for bacteria to populate. For a comparison 1 square inch of rock probably has 100x the surface area of 1 square inch of glass so the rock has the ability to support 100x more bacteria than the glass.
WOW! you guys went way beyond my knowledge here. I have read though, that to achieve denitrification with "live rock" is very complicated. First the rock really has to qualify as "live rock" (has to come directly from a reef and be full of diverse live organisms that are well established within the pores of the rock. Has to be extremely well taken care of while transporting it to our tanks.). If it does indeed qualify, it has to be free from any algea that may occupy the pores. Even when this is attainable, the living organmisms cannot reproduce (at least some or most, not sure which) in captivity. Thus, the denitrification might occur but only for a limited time (not sure how long).
 

natclanwy

Active Member
I'm not sure where you read that but I don't believe it to be true.
You can achieve denitrification using dry base rock, many people only use dry base rock only especially in seahorse breeding tanks because they don't want to risk any hitchhikers that could harm the fry or out compete them for food. Dry base rock will take longer than LR to build up the bacteria needed to start removing nitrate but it will eventually get there. Now the microfauna that lives on LR will help to keep the LR clean and keep the pores from filling with dietrus, algae and other debris, this is one of the reasons LR rubble is used instead of bio-balls in wet/dry filters. There is no need to clean the LR rubble which reduces the maintenance and the possibility of the wet/dry filter starting to produce nitrates.
There may be some organisms that don't reproduce well in captivity but, LR is truly amazing based solely on the huge variety of lifeforms that can be found on it. I have not added rock to my tank in 2 years and I still regularly find new species in my tank, recently had a new type of sponge pop up and another yet unidentified organism. This would not occur if they were not reproducing in the tank. Another example are amphipods and copepods both are organisms that live in and on LR and both reproduce very well in our aquariums. The list of LR species that reproduce well in our tanks probably numbers in the thousands.
 

locoyo386

Member
Hi there,
Originally Posted by natclanwy
http:///forum/post/2913527
I'm not sure where you read that but I don't believe it to be true.
I will try to post it here, it might be from a competer's web page. I will try to post.
You can achieve denitrification using dry base rock, many people only use dry base rock only especially in seahorse breeding tanks because they don't want to risk any hitchhikers that could harm the fry or out compete them for food. Dry base rock will take longer than LR to build up the bacteria needed to start removing nitrate but it will eventually get there. Now the microfauna that lives on LR will help to keep the LR clean and keep the pores from filling with dietrus, algae and other debris, this is one of the reasons LR rubble is used instead of bio-balls in wet/dry filters. There is no need to clean the LR rubble which reduces the maintenance and the possibility of the wet/dry filter starting to produce nitrates.
There may be some organisms that don't reproduce well in captivity but, LR is truly amazing based solely on the huge variety of lifeforms that can be found on it. I have not added rock to my tank in 2 years and I still regularly find new species in my tank, recently had a new type of sponge pop up and another yet unidentified organism. This would not occur if they were not reproducing in the tank. Another example are amphipods and copepods both are organisms that live in and on LR and both reproduce very well in our aquariums. The list of LR species that reproduce well in our tanks probably numbers in the thousands.
You had the tank for 2 years have you noticed any contribution from live rock in reducing nitrates? If so how do you figure this out? I want to set up two tanks and try to observe if there is a difference between base rock live rock. I am trying to figure how I can set them up so I can have attain relatively good resullts.
I am currently running two, where I am trying to figure out how much is enought (as far as addition bioload goes).
 

spanko

Active Member
As far as gases release from stirring a DSB I believe it is Hydrogen sulfide gas that is released from the sand bed which is formed when the denitrifying bacteria run out of nitrate while there is still decomposing organic matter and then some bacteria can use sulfate to metabolize organic matter and H2S is the byproduct. H2S is extremely toxic to your livestock and can cause mass die off if large quantities are released into your aquarium at once.
You are correct sir and I thank you for that clarification.
If you are using full size pieces of LR it would have the same nitrate reduction capacity as LR in the DT, but most people use rubble in their sumps and because it is broke up into smaller pieces I believe there are less anoxic zones in rubble verses an equal amount of whole LR and its these anoxic areas that anerobic bacteria live. Nitrifying bacteria populate the outer aerobic portion of the LR so in that case rubble probably has more surface area than whole LR and has the ability to support more nitrifying bacteria.
And for the Nano reefers out there this is the reason I always try to dissuade people from putting live rock rubble in the back chambers of their thanks. Too little benefit from it and your tank is better served with some macro algae for nutrient export in that area.
 

natclanwy

Active Member
Originally Posted by locoyo386
http:///forum/post/2913594
Hi there,
You had the tank for 2 years have you noticed any contribution from live rock in reducing nitrates? If so how do you figure this out? I want to set up two tanks and try to observe if there is a difference between base rock live rock. I am trying to figure how I can set them up so I can have attain relatively good resullts.
I am currently running two, where I am trying to figure out how much is enought (as far as addition bioload goes).
My tank has been running in its current form for ~4 years, I can't tell you positively that the LR is a large part of my nitrate reduction since I have multiple systems in place for nitrate removal. I have 130lbs of LR, 4" DSB using silt for substrate, and a refugium that also has sugar sand DSB, and chaeto. My nitrates have been at zero for the last year, and previously at 10ppm, the last reduction in nitrates I believe was due to the redesign of my sump and refugium a year ago but also could be attributed to additional flow in my DT increased it from 1000gph to 1600gph, and now have 2600gph (47x turnover rate). I believe the chaeto is probably one of the largest exporters of nitrates in my system, when I redesigned my sump I pulled it offline so that I could move the baffles and had to leave it off for 4 days, in that amount of time my nitrates increase from 10ppm to 40ppm. Once the sump was back online and I did a couple of large water changes to bring the nitrates down to 15ppm it took about a month to drop to zero nitrates and I have been there since. My system is self reliant when it comes to nitrate export, I do not have to rely on water changes to export nitrate. I put it to the test this last spring and summer when I was out of town for work about 10 out of 16 weeks. During that time my tank went three months without a water change and still no measurable nitrates. I solely do water changes to replace trace minerals and export heavy metals and other impurities out of my tank.
Man I have diarirra of the keyboard this morning

Back to your other questions, as far as setting up a test tank I would try to find two pieces of rock that were similar in size and shape with aproximatly the same amount of porosity and place them both in a bare bottom tank with identical setups for flow and light and no fish. For your ammonia source I would use a measured amount of flake food or a pure source of ammonia. Let the tanks cycle testing throughout the cycle to document the progression in each tank and then continue test for six months while either ghost feeding a measured amount of food or ammonia. You will probably want to use the flake food since that will help to support the life on the LR so that you don't have any unexpected die off. You also may want to cure the LR first before you put it into the test tank as it could lengthen the cycle compared to the base rock tank since there will be a larger source of ammonia on uncured LR rock.
This won't be diffinitive test since its impossible to have two pieces of rock that will be identical, but it should be in the ballpark. There also may be holes in my logic and hopefully someone will point those holes out.
 

spanko

Active Member
May even be more beneficial for the test to get two pc.s of Tufa dry base rock. It is soft enough that you could even shape to almost the same size pcs. Starting from scratch with no other variables in the rock itself may give you a better test.
IDK....just sayin....
 

locoyo386

Member
Yeah I do think it will be difficult to set it up. There are quite a bit variences on rocks. I thought maybe I could get the same amount (say 10 lbs) and the same kind (fiji or what have you).
The difference could be;
1.) rock density
2.) rock pourosity
3.) rock surface area
I guess I could try to get as close as identical pieces of rock, but I would still possibly have different density, but most important different pourosity. I could log it with such difference and perhaps make it two experiments. The first with both "live rock" with the differences stated above. The second, one with "dead rock" and the other with "live rock". Get them a close shape as possible and just assume the density and pourosity are the same (might be very diffult [impossible in my opinion] to attain this).
 

natclanwy

Active Member
I agree any test using different pieces of rock would only be in the ballpark, and maybe not even accurate at all. You could do the test with LR then sacrifice the LR and boil it until it is clean and then do the base rock test using the same pieces you used for the LR test.
 

ilovemytank

Member
Originally Posted by natclanwy
http:///forum/post/2914777
I agree any test using different pieces of rock would only be in the ballpark, and maybe not even accurate at all. You could do the test with LR then sacrifice the LR and boil it until it is clean and then do the base rock test using the same pieces you used for the LR test.
Not to go off subject but your advice is being asked for on my new thread under "reef tanks" for changing a FOWLR into a reef ! yours too Locoyo386 !
 
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