Nitrate levels
- Thread starter tony11705
- Start date
mr. limpid
Active Member
That what i thought, 
pegasus
Well-Known Member
Wet/dry sumps do nothing to reduce or remove nitrate. In fact... bio balls create nitrate. A bacteria that lives on the bio balls consumes ammonia, and converts it to nitrite. Another bacteria on the bio balls consumes nitrite, and converts it to nitrate. Bacteria that consumes nitrate cannot live in an environment that contains oxygen, such as bio balls, filter pads, shallow sand beds, rock rubble, etc.. Large live rock, and deep sand beds with anaerobic (oxygen-free) zones are the only natural places this bacteria can survive. Other than that, something like an Aquaripure filter, external algae scrubber, or nitrate absorbing media, water changes are the best methods of nitrate reduction. A refugium with macro algae and deep sand bed will help. With enough sand, rock, and macro algae, nitrate can be greatly reduced... or completely eliminated. This means far fewer water changes, which adds up to savings by using less salt. I haven't performed a water change in over two months, and I only change water to replenish some of the minor elements that I don't dose. It takes a good bit of time for a biological filtration system to establish enough to sustain itself, but it is absolutely possible. Creating the proper environment is the key...
TonysAqautics.com
New Member
I have had my aquarium for a year. I'm having trouble controlling my nitrates. I used the vodka method but doesn't work for me. Is their anyway I can control nitrates without adding so many chemicals? I do 20% WC weekly. I use:
Red Sea Coral Pro Marine Salt
Params:
pH: 8.1
Ammo: 0ppm
Nitrites: 0ppm
Nitrates: 20ppm
Cal: 420
dkh: 12
Salinity: 1.026
Temp: 77
Tank mates:
Skunk clown
Yellow Tang
Firefish
2 Peppermint Shrimp
4 Cleaner Clams
Sea Hare
GS Polyps
Jasmine Polyps
Zoanthids
Green Ricordea
Mushrooms
Red Sea Coral Pro Marine Salt
Params:
pH: 8.1
Ammo: 0ppm
Nitrites: 0ppm
Nitrates: 20ppm
Cal: 420
dkh: 12
Salinity: 1.026
Temp: 77
Tank mates:
Skunk clown
Yellow Tang
Firefish
2 Peppermint Shrimp
4 Cleaner Clams
Sea Hare
GS Polyps
Jasmine Polyps
Zoanthids
Green Ricordea
Mushrooms
mandy111
Active Member
I assume you have a sump ? I run seachem matrix ( 2kg) in my sump. I have them in bags do I can rinse off every couple of months but I swear they do an amazing job. They do take a couple of months to grow the denitrifying bacteria though, so not a quick fix but long term great value. I also vacuum any detritus out of the sump & turkey baste all detritus off the rocks in the DT once a week. Built up detritus is a huge cause if high nitrates. Dead spots in the tank also can be a huge contributor.
pegasus
Well-Known Member
Nitrate consuming bacteria can't live without the proper environment. You didn't mention the size of your tank, clean up crew, amount of rock or sand, flow in the tank, or filtration methods. These are important aspects, as each of them plays a role in natural filtration. A 75 gallon tank with an equivalent amount (in lbs) or more of each rock and sand, adequate clean up crew to consume uneaten food, good flow to eliminate "dead spots" and to keep detritus suspended, and good filtration to remove particulate before it breaks down into nitrate. Have you tried reducing the amount of food(s) you are feeding? Also, what brand is the test kit?
Iron_brigade
New Member
Can someone define what a sump is. Is this different from a refugium?
Also, what are these seachem matrix bags that were spoken of? Does a FOWLR need these or are they just a bonus?
Iron_brigade
New Member
I am still confused a bit.
In the refugium I had (created by a professional aquarist) it had 3 chambers
the first chamber was the dump with bio balls then it flowed under a wall into the bio chamber with the plant and light from there the water spilled over into a clean chamber where the skimmer was running and the pump to take the clean water back up to the top.
In that scenario I described do have a sump? or is the sump a whole separate holding tank?
In the refugium I had (created by a professional aquarist) it had 3 chambers
the first chamber was the dump with bio balls then it flowed under a wall into the bio chamber with the plant and light from there the water spilled over into a clean chamber where the skimmer was running and the pump to take the clean water back up to the top.
In that scenario I described do have a sump? or is the sump a whole separate holding tank?
bang guy
Moderator
In that scenario the middle chamber is a refugium and the last chamber is the sump.
silverado61
Well-Known Member
+2 on removing the bio balls. If you remove the bio balls, just take a few out at a time till they're all gone or you'll release too much toxins at once back into the system and would very likely cause your tank to crash.
Iron_brigade
New Member
Well in this case I am starting the whole system all new. So I will not add bio balls. What is the benefit of not adding those if I can ask?
silverado61
Well-Known Member
Pegasus explains it the best with this post.
Iron_brigade
New Member
lots of info there really good.
So sand beds, is this the sand in the refugium or both sand in the top and bottom tanks, and for a 75gal system top side how deep is a sufficient bed. top and bottom?
2nd question where does the good macro algae come from? does it spawn naturally or was it introduced in some way. Once you have it how is it sustained just through the nitrates?
Pegasus also mention no WC for 2 months how is he replenishing calcium and removing Co2
lmforbis
Well-Known Member
Sand bed depth is kind of a personal choice. Some like really deep some like none at all. I started with 2" or so in my main tank. The fish and current have redistributed it. Now some places it barely covers the bottom and other places it is deep. I have no sand in my refugium.
I bought my macro algae, I only use Chaetomorpha. It grows and I remove some then it grows more.
Calcium and other additives only need to be added when the levels are low. Pegasus, I believe, uses two part to keep his calcium levels up. CO2 shouldn't be an issue, is a gas and leaves the tank on its own this is aided by water movement.
Personally I'd never go two months with out a water change, I do them weekly. I know the way my tank generates waste because I test the water. This determines the frequency of waterchanges.
I bought my macro algae, I only use Chaetomorpha. It grows and I remove some then it grows more.
Calcium and other additives only need to be added when the levels are low. Pegasus, I believe, uses two part to keep his calcium levels up. CO2 shouldn't be an issue, is a gas and leaves the tank on its own this is aided by water movement.
Personally I'd never go two months with out a water change, I do them weekly. I know the way my tank generates waste because I test the water. This determines the frequency of waterchanges.
Iron_brigade
New Member
" I only use Chaetomorpha. It grows and I remove some then it grows more"
Your referred to this Chaetomorpha could your please expound on that a bit? is this this the typical plant that grows in the refugium or is this a completely different component. If this is the plant then I there is no need to explain.
Your referred to this Chaetomorpha could your please expound on that a bit? is this this the typical plant that grows in the refugium or is this a completely different component. If this is the plant then I there is no need to explain.
lmforbis
Well-Known Member
It is a plant that is often used in a refugium.
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/product-chaetomorpha-plant-pack-12lb
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/product-chaetomorpha-plant-pack-12lb