Nitrate reduction

bang guy

Moderator
I've been thinking about this and I'm not sure. If the flow is too slow the output will be Sulphur dioxide and your whole house will stink. If the flow is too fast then the output will just be anoxic water.
If you try it keep me informed.
 

srfisher17

Active Member
Originally Posted by Bang Guy
http:///forum/post/2581426
I've been thinking about this and I'm not sure. If the flow is too slow the output will be Sulphur dioxide and your whole house will stink. If the flow is too fast then the output will just be anoxic water.
If you try it keep me informed.
Yeah, flow rate is my big concern. I'm glad you don't think its just a dumb idea! I did bounce this off a biologist at a SW aquaculture lab and she thought the idea had merit; but knows I often have some very off-the-wall ideas. I really don't have much to lose and have a few people that might have a suggestion as to flow rate...any guesses? I also wonder how much " wiggle-room" I have. If flow rate has to be extremely precise, I won't even try it. I could always start on the high end, rather than the stinky low end, and just keep lowering flow until testing showed results.
 

1journeyman

Active Member
My concern with pvc the way you described it, as I understand it, would be the gradual but consistent build up of detritus.
I'm a huge believer in DSBs. As long as you use true live sand (as Bang pointed out), and have a good brisk current across it, and avoid predators that deplete you fo your sand critters, DSBs work very well.
I moved a 210 gallon to my house from my office after 2 years. Sand was fine, no toxic gas of any sort. Just recently sold aquarium to my uncle, again after close to 2 years; Again, no toxic build up.
FWIW, I used 700Lbs of southdown playsand and about 80 Lbs of live sand from this site. The live sand was excellent.
 

srfisher17

Active Member
Originally Posted by 1journeyman
http:///forum/post/2582862
My concern with pvc the way you described it, as I understand it, would be the gradual but consistent build up of detritus.
I'm a huge believer in DSBs. As long as you use true live sand (as Bang pointed out), and have a good brisk current across it, and avoid predators that deplete you fo your sand critters, DSBs work very well.
I moved a 210 gallon to my house from my office after 2 years. Sand was fine, no toxic gas of any sort. Just recently sold aquarium to my uncle, again after close to 2 years; Again, no toxic build up.
FWIW, I used 700Lbs of southdown playsand and about 80 Lbs of live sand from this site. The live sand was excellent.
I thought about the detritus build up; I suppose a good pre-filter would help and, if I had 2 containers, it should be easy to alternatly rinse them. This idea is getting so complicated; I'm glad I'm getting good advice and have some time to decide. I still need to read up on a DSB as well. The upside to only being concerned with nitrates & fish is that if the LR rubble (or DSB, or whatever) doesn't work--nothing is going to die. Thanks again!
 

srfisher17

Active Member
Plans have changed a bit. My 240 is going to be a reef; then I'll convert my 180 FOWLR to a new retro. I still haven't decided on the DSB or the homemade "rubble reactor" to reduce nitrates. Q: If I went with the "rubble reactor" (LR rubble in a big pvc tower); would the constant darkness prohibit bacteria activity on nitrate? I don't think so, they seem to work in the dark anyhow; but sure could use opinions from folks that know a lot more about this than I do. I'm also looking into the sugar solution, sounds fascinating! PS: with sugar, nitrates (in my small, 55, retro) went from 80 last night to 60 in 18 hours.(https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/323234/sugar-in-a-fowlr#post_2637648
 

prime311

Active Member
I don't think the bacteria on the LR need any light at all, at least I've never seen anyone who said that it would in all the reading I've done. In fact, no light would probably be better so you don't have to worry so much about algae growth.
 

srfisher17

Active Member
Originally Posted by prime311
http:///forum/post/2641495
I don't think the bacteria on the LR need any light at all, at least I've never seen anyone who said that it would in all the reading I've done. In fact, no light would probably be better so you don't have to worry so much about algae growth.
Yeah; the nitrate to nitrogen bacteria live so deep and out of the water flow that they really can't get light. I sure knew a lot more about this kind of stuff when I kept a reef; now I'll be re-learning.
 

srfisher17

Active Member
I'm reviving this old thread I started to share some info. Thanks to everyone who helped. I tried SeaChem Matrix and have had outstanding results just using the stuff, with a media bag, in my sump. Nitrates have been brought to under 10 ppm in both of my no LR tanks. I've never seen numbers like this with these tanks. SeaChem packages this stuff in at least 3 sizes (Size of the rock chunks) and I've found that the pond size pieces work best for me. They also sell this as SeaChem"De-Nitrate; but flow can't exceed 35-50 gph, according to SeaChem's web site. I asked them what type rock this is and they keep it a secret. It isn't limestone (it can be used in FW, limestone can't); which is just really very old LR anyway. Maybe Lufa rock? Does anyone know? Its very inexpensive and should last forever, so I'm sure not going to find my own. So far, great stuff and I highly reccommend anyone with a nitrate problem to try it. I'm sure not qualified to suggest this be used in reef tanks (I don't need it in mine, yet); but don't see why it couldn't.
 

tbcseod

Member
I have fought and fought Nitrates for over a year now (admited I could stand to do more water changes but that salt adds up cost wise).
I have not tried this stuff, looks like something to at least give a shot with.
Thanks for the revival and heads up

~T
 

rotarygeek

Member
Originally Posted by srfisher17
http:///forum/post/2641410
I'm also looking into the sugar solution, sounds fascinating! PS: with sugar, nitrates (in my small, 55, retro) went from 80 last night to 60 in 18 hours.(https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/show...=1#post2637648
I tried sugar dosing and saw some results, but i don't know if they have any merit becuase it turned out to be a bad nitrate test kit that was giving me results off the chart (160+). Even with the bad test kit though, i saw drops all the way down to inbetween 40 and 80 at one point. And fwiw i have a skilter 250 protien skimmer, so it wasn't much help. But now that i have a new test kit, i have my nitrates down to 15.
 

srfisher17

Active Member
Originally Posted by RotaryGeek
http:///forum/post/2776521
I tried sugar dosing and saw some results, but i don't know if they have any merit becuase it turned out to be a bad nitrate test kit that was giving me results off the chart (160+). Even with the bad test kit though, i saw drops all the way down to inbetween 40 and 80 at one point. And fwiw i have a skilter 250 protien skimmer, so it wasn't much help. But now that i have a new test kit, i have my nitrates down to 15.
Yeah, I had some great results with sugar dosing, but with all the controversy on several sites, I stopped using it. I think the jury is still out on this method. Matrix, as far as I can see; is just another natural substance that happens to have the right structure to house anaerobic bacteria. Just like LR.
 
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