Officially joined the hobby today!!!

al&burke

Active Member
It is hard to tell but the inside part of the bulkhead looks like a slip fit, I am sure this one will work fine for you. Take the bulkhead with you to the plumbing store - just remember what ever you connect to the inlet or outlet of the bulkhead you want to make it removable. The inside part of the bulkhead that goes inside the overflow box if it is a slip fit you don't have to glue it just make sure it is set firmly in the socket. Now the outlet of the bulkheaad will have to be totally sealed because if it leaks even slightly it is outside the tank. Good luck
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
You could try something like this, Dean. The threaded adpater screws into the bottom of the bulkhead ( if it's threaded). It's a 1" thread x 1-1/4" socket. Would allow you to increase your drains by one size. You'll just have to use regular elbows instead of the sweeps. No big deal.


 

gcgrad

Member
Thanks Corey and Al! I think I'm going to order these two bulkheads which are threaded and will allow me to simply screw the bulkhead onto the pvc, then proceed with the plumbing as you showed Corey. Let me know what you think.
http://www.**************.com/store/1-sch-80-bulkhead-thread-x-thread.html
On a separate note, I own 65 lbs of dry base rock right now. Thinking about ordering another 65 lbs of the same dry rock and then buying 20 lbs of live rock. This would give me 150 lbs live rock in my 125. The twin corner overflows leave less room. I will make pvc tables to place the rock on and provide some stable structures for the rock to sit on. Thinking about making some of the tables fairly high but stacking rock in front of the legs to hide the pvc. Think this will also make it seem as if I have more rock than I have, which translates to more swimming room. 150 lbs enough or too much? Thanks again guys! Ya'll are AWESOME!!!
 

al&burke

Active Member
Sounds good Dean, I am just about to rescape my 65, I actually bought some dry flat rock that i plan on using to make some caves and overhangs, this also gives a lot of places for corals. Just something you might want to include with the rest of the dry rock you are buying, good luck buddy, I still think your other bulkheads will work, I am a bit stubborn, and cheap though, LOL.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Yep, it can be done either way for sure. 150lbs sounds like a good start, Dean. Do you already have a source for the rock that you want to get?
 

gcgrad

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today/220#post_3365573
Sounds good Dean, I am just about to rescape my 65, I actually bought some dry flat rock that i plan on using to make some caves and overhangs, this also gives a lot of places for corals. Just something you might want to include with the rest of the dry rock you are buying, good luck buddy, I still think your other bulkheads will work, I am a bit stubborn, and cheap though, LOL.
Well I was going to have to order one that matched anyway so I figured why not just go with the nice ones.lol I haven't heard of the flat rock you speak of. I have 65 lbs of the BRS "reef saver" dry rock. I like the overhang idea though if you could please elaborate?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today/220#post_3365581
Yep, it can be done either way for sure. 150lbs sounds like a good start, Dean. Do you already have a source for the rock that you want to get?
I was planning on purchasing more "reef saver" rock. Then purchasing the 20 lbs of live from a LFS.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
One thing you may want to look at when you as setting your rock work. If you place it in a semi-circle rather than straight line arrangement as most people do you can achieve a feeling of depth which should work well with your dark back ground
 

gcgrad

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today/220#post_3365689
One thing you may want to look at when you as setting your rock work. If you place it in a semi-circle rather than straight line arrangement as most people do you can achieve a feeling of depth which should work well with your dark back ground
That's a good technique Joe and I will definitely implement it. You think I should paint the back of the 125 gal as I did the 20 gal QT?
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Overflows are a pain in the ass to conceal although it can be done. You have a lot on your plate right now I would not be too concerned with them. They can be addressed after you are up and running if they are too much of an eye sore for you, but I think it is something we all live with
 

gcgrad

Member
Alright. So in the meantime of the plumbing project, I have made my canopy out of eggcrate. Here are the pics!
Below is the QT. I left some room towards the back for a canister filter (which I understand to be a common practice for a QT).


Now here is the display with the lights sitting on top of the egg crate.


Now here it is with the lights on. They appear brighter in person ofcourse.



I really like how it turned out! Oh, and sump is finally complete! No more leaks FINALLY! Things are starting to come along. Thanks for taking a look!!!
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Looks good, Dean! Congrats on the sump! Canisters or HOB"s (hang on the back filters) are pretty common for quarantine tanks, yes. Something simple is usually fine. Just keep an eye on what your water perameters are doing and be prepared for water changes when livestock is in there.
 

gcgrad

Member
Gotcha Joe and Corey. Next question, I know I am full of them, but do you all use the rubber made brute trash cans to make up your saltwater? I checked them out at Lowes and they had the brute ones which were $30 for a 32 gallon. The basic 32 gallon rubber mades were only $14. I would like to save money when I can, but do you think the heavy duty ones are worth the extra cost? I guess it couldn't hurt considering I would want a container that would last in the long run. And while I'm mentioning it, for a 125 gal tank, how much water should be changed out and how often? Thanks again for your patience with me. Hope you all don't mind all the questions!
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcgrad http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today/220#post_3365990
Gotcha Joe and Corey. Next question, I know I am full of them, but do you all use the rubber made brute trash cans to make up your saltwater? I checked them out at Lowes and they had the brute ones which were $30 for a 32 gallon. The basic 32 gallon rubber mades were only $14. I would like to save money when I can, but do you think the heavy duty ones are worth the extra cost? I guess it couldn't hurt considering I would want a container that would last in the long run. And while I'm mentioning it, for a 125 gal tank, how much water should be changed out and how often? Thanks again for your patience with me. Hope you all don't mind all the questions!
Dean, I did pick up a 32g brute can for the 120. When it was running I was doing 15G water changes every two weeks or roughly 25% a month. Now for my 50g, I just do 2.5g water changes once a week because I find it to just be easier doing small ones once a week with a 5g bucket on that tank as apposed to larger ones every two to four weeks. But for the brute I used to just set it up next to the tank the day before a water change and have it mix overnight so that I could add it to the tank the next evening.
I would recommend the brute simply because many people use those as well as the cheaper rubbermaids. Although, to the best of my knowledge I have never heard of a brute can failing or cracking on someone. But I can think of at least 3 people that I can recal whom have had the cheaper rubbermaids fail on them. They just weren't designed for that kind of thing. So in my case I guess you could say that since I was using mine in the house and on carpet that I felt the extra $15 or so was worth the peace of mind. If all you ever did was small water changes with it then it might be ok to go with a cheap one. But it's a risk we take when playing with water in the house. Perhaps you should ask yourself,....Am I feeling lucky???

Remember though, that water changes are going to be determined by what's going on with your system at any given point in time. A new tank is going to go through changes after being set up. And it takes months for a tank to really stabilize as long as you're not making a bunch of major changes along the way. Take it slow, don't rush it. You're trying to replicate a miniature, thriving eco system in your house and it takes time to do it right.
Oh, and I spent a couple extra bucks for the lid that goes with the can for when I'm not using it.
 

gcgrad

Member
Thanks for the advice Corey! I will definitely get the brute one. I've spent so much time taking precautions elsewhere so why not continue. My RO/DI unit is setup in my laundry room. I'm thinking that I will get a smaller rubbermaid to catch my filtered water. Once it gets full I will transfer it to the brute that will be kept next to the tank (only during water changes). Then I will add salt, heater, and pump with a hose to circulate that water for 24 hours. Then I will pump the water into the sump. Then I can store the brute trashcan away until the next water change(2 weeks). I guess to remove the water I will need a separate rubbermaid container that will be used for strictly "bad" water. I'm thinking I will turn off my sump pump, place a pump in the top of the tank and pump the "bad" water out. Unless placing a pump in the top of the DT and removing water that way may stress the fish too much!
Or i could just siphon the water out with a hose.
 

deejeff442

Active Member
i am not sure about the ones with wheels.i tried that .lets just say luckily i have tile floors.the can with the wheels co lapsed.not good.personally i use my 27 year old first 45 gallon tank for water mixing.
sorry joe i usually agree with you 99.999999% of the time
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
I just syphon the water out. I use one of those Aqueon Water Changers that hooks up to the faucet. There is another brand called Python, I believe. A pump would be handy if you ever needed to pull alot of water out fast, I guess. But the syphon is fairly quick. And if you turn on the faucet, which creates more of a vacuum, then it pulls pretty fast.
 
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