Officially joined the hobby today!!!
- Thread starter gcgrad
- Start date
mkroher
Member
Huh?
I meant that there should be enough water volume to not pump the return chamber dry.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today#post_3347505
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkroher http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today#post_3347503
Make sure the return compartment is large enough to fill the DT up to the overflow
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcgrad http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today#post_3347481
New modification to sump design. Fourth and fifth baffle are now 13" tall. The skimmer compartment was made 1/2" smaller. But still debating on whether to make this compartment a few inches smaller and simply turn the skimmer 90 degrees to allow for a smaller area to work with. Width of tank is 11 3/4" so there should be room.
How can you design a sump to determine that?
I just thought you have your DT full as it should be, and then fill the sump one inch above the return pump and keep it one inch until everything levels out as it runs. That there should be enough room in the sump for when the system closes down so it won't overflow.
I meant that there should be enough water volume to not pump the return chamber dry.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today#post_3347505
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkroher http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today#post_3347503
Make sure the return compartment is large enough to fill the DT up to the overflow
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcgrad http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today#post_3347481
New modification to sump design. Fourth and fifth baffle are now 13" tall. The skimmer compartment was made 1/2" smaller. But still debating on whether to make this compartment a few inches smaller and simply turn the skimmer 90 degrees to allow for a smaller area to work with. Width of tank is 11 3/4" so there should be room.
How can you design a sump to determine that?
I just thought you have your DT full as it should be, and then fill the sump one inch above the return pump and keep it one inch until everything levels out as it runs. That there should be enough room in the sump for when the system closes down so it won't overflow.
Wow, as a new hobbyist you are on top of it having done so much research. My advise is before you get fish, to also set up a quarantine tank.
Also, for the best advise, any more than general newbie questions, such as tank builds, I'd suggest to also hit up the other forums. There is a specific Equipment/DIY forum for the info you posted here.
Also, for the best advise, any more than general newbie questions, such as tank builds, I'd suggest to also hit up the other forums. There is a specific Equipment/DIY forum for the info you posted here.
gcgrad
Member
Thanks Beth! I've been doing my homework for quite a while and am in the beginning stages of a build. I plan on getting maybe a 20 gallon QT tank, maybe I can get a good deal on craigslist. I also plan on building my own stand. But trust me, I am nowhere even close to buying fish. I love thinking about the possibilities, but I'm trying to get this sump build and stand build squared away at the moment. I'm thinking of building a stand large enough to house my 29 gal sump/refugium and a 20 gallon (high) QT tank (side by side). I say this because the DT will be a 55 gal but I plan on building the stand with enough room for a significant upgrade to the DT in the future. I also want somewhere to house the QT because a plan on it being permanent to avoid taking it down and putting it back up. These are just a few ideas I'm throwing around. At the moment I'm beating my head against a wall on what type of overflow and plumbing I want. I can't drill the sump because I don't know the manufacturer of the tank. I'm waiting to get my sisters 55 gal, I'm thinking of drilling that tank at the moment but I'll have to contact the manufacturer first. I've read so many types of overflow and what not, there seems to be so many techniques. Since I've never done anything like it before I have no bias or preference. So it's frustrating at the moment. But thanks for all the help everyone! I'm here for ya'll to offer me guidance in this exciting process of setting up my first aquarium!!!
mkroher
Member
yes. drill the DT. It's easier than it seems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcgrad http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today/20#post_3347732
Thanks Beth! I've been doing my homework for quite a while and am in the beginning stages of a build. I plan on getting maybe a 20 gallon QT tank, maybe I can get a good deal on craigslist. I also plan on building my own stand. But trust me, I am nowhere even close to buying fish. I love thinking about the possibilities, but I'm trying to get this sump build and stand build squared away at the moment. I'm thinking of building a stand large enough to house my 29 gal sump/refugium and a 20 gallon (high) QT tank (side by side). I say this because the DT will be a 55 gal but I plan on building the stand with enough room for a significant upgrade to the DT in the future. I also want somewhere to house the QT because a plan on it being permanent to avoid taking it down and putting it back up. These are just a few ideas I'm throwing around. At the moment I'm beating my head against a wall on what type of overflow and plumbing I want. I can't drill the sump because I don't know the manufacturer of the tank. I'm waiting to get my sisters 55 gal, I'm thinking of drilling that tank at the moment but I'll have to contact the manufacturer first. I've read so many types of overflow and what not, there seems to be so many techniques. Since I've never done anything like it before I have no bias or preference. So it's frustrating at the moment. But thanks for all the help everyone! I'm here for ya'll to offer me guidance in this exciting process of setting up my first aquarium!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcgrad http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today/20#post_3347732
Thanks Beth! I've been doing my homework for quite a while and am in the beginning stages of a build. I plan on getting maybe a 20 gallon QT tank, maybe I can get a good deal on craigslist. I also plan on building my own stand. But trust me, I am nowhere even close to buying fish. I love thinking about the possibilities, but I'm trying to get this sump build and stand build squared away at the moment. I'm thinking of building a stand large enough to house my 29 gal sump/refugium and a 20 gallon (high) QT tank (side by side). I say this because the DT will be a 55 gal but I plan on building the stand with enough room for a significant upgrade to the DT in the future. I also want somewhere to house the QT because a plan on it being permanent to avoid taking it down and putting it back up. These are just a few ideas I'm throwing around. At the moment I'm beating my head against a wall on what type of overflow and plumbing I want. I can't drill the sump because I don't know the manufacturer of the tank. I'm waiting to get my sisters 55 gal, I'm thinking of drilling that tank at the moment but I'll have to contact the manufacturer first. I've read so many types of overflow and what not, there seems to be so many techniques. Since I've never done anything like it before I have no bias or preference. So it's frustrating at the moment. But thanks for all the help everyone! I'm here for ya'll to offer me guidance in this exciting process of setting up my first aquarium!!!
acrylic51
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcgrad http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today#post_3347445
Very good design....I see you've found melevs site. Might I suggest a few things on the design.....Why not make all your baffles the first (3) the same height. 10.5" is fine, but honestly see no reason for the 3rd baffle being 12.5". You have to keep in mind what the water level could/would be in the return chamber. You don't want your water level coming over the 3rd baffle and having a large waterfall. In theory it might seem or appear better that the water falling a good distance would be beneficial, put really it creates a couple issue. 1 issue would be spray and splashing all over the place, and the water falling a good distance is another way to introduce bubbles to your return pump in return being pushed back into the tank. My advise would honestly be to make the first 3 baffles 10.5" and spacing as you decided on, but you could also save yourself; or give yourself a little extra room in the return section if you bump your baffle spacing to 3/4". I just recently built 2 sumps with spacing 1" & 3/4" and saw no ill affects bumping the baffle spacing to 3/4". I can't remember what Mag pump I used for testing, but it was way overkill and couldn't micro bubbles through the baffles, so I know for sure you could make the return section larger.
As far as you fuge I honestly see no real reason to have the "under" baffle. Again wasting space in your return area. If I were to run and build as you are make sure you round the edge over on the wall going back to the return section. A smooth, rounded over edge less turbulence on water going back to the return section. Another thing you might want to consider with that baffle/wall is cutting it with "teeth" as an overflow would have....
Originally Posted by gcgrad http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today#post_3347445
Very good design....I see you've found melevs site. Might I suggest a few things on the design.....Why not make all your baffles the first (3) the same height. 10.5" is fine, but honestly see no reason for the 3rd baffle being 12.5". You have to keep in mind what the water level could/would be in the return chamber. You don't want your water level coming over the 3rd baffle and having a large waterfall. In theory it might seem or appear better that the water falling a good distance would be beneficial, put really it creates a couple issue. 1 issue would be spray and splashing all over the place, and the water falling a good distance is another way to introduce bubbles to your return pump in return being pushed back into the tank. My advise would honestly be to make the first 3 baffles 10.5" and spacing as you decided on, but you could also save yourself; or give yourself a little extra room in the return section if you bump your baffle spacing to 3/4". I just recently built 2 sumps with spacing 1" & 3/4" and saw no ill affects bumping the baffle spacing to 3/4". I can't remember what Mag pump I used for testing, but it was way overkill and couldn't micro bubbles through the baffles, so I know for sure you could make the return section larger.
As far as you fuge I honestly see no real reason to have the "under" baffle. Again wasting space in your return area. If I were to run and build as you are make sure you round the edge over on the wall going back to the return section. A smooth, rounded over edge less turbulence on water going back to the return section. Another thing you might want to consider with that baffle/wall is cutting it with "teeth" as an overflow would have....
acrylic51
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcgrad http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today#post_3347575
I have understood that the bubble trap is composed of 3 baffles. I don't know that the refugium needs a bubble trap as well. I've read that the majority of microbubbles come from the skimmer. But I could be wrong.
Some people seem to have trouble with the skimmer putting out tons of bubbles, but I honestly think a large majority of the micro bubbles actually comes from where the water enters the sump from the DT. It's pretty turbulent, that's why some elect to incorporate a bubble tower on the intake of the water from the DT.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcgrad http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today#post_3347038
This is the sump design I have come up with so far. The bubble trap baffles are 1" apart and 10" tall with the center piece 1" from the bottom. The fourth baffle is 14" tall. All baffles are 11 3/4" wide and 1/4" thick. Water will flow from a split line into the skimmer and refugium compartments. The skimmer compartment is largest due to the size of the skimmer. I plan on using the Reef Octupus NWB 110 4" skimmer (10" x 6.75" x 19.75"). If the skimmer were turned 90 degrees then the skimmer section would be slightly smaller. I don't know if doing this sacrifices skimmer efficiency. I may be overthinking it. I have read that this skimmer operates in an 8" water depth. If the depth is supposed to be lower then I can just set it on a stand. All thoughts and suggestions are welcomed!!! Thanks
Your a "thinker"
Very good idea on turning the skimmer, and I don't see why it would hinder it's performance. The skimmer isn't processing 100% of the water that it sits in anyways, so I think your good. The only issue I might see with narrowing down the space would be at some time if you opted for a bigger skimmer.....
Originally Posted by gcgrad http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today#post_3347575
I have understood that the bubble trap is composed of 3 baffles. I don't know that the refugium needs a bubble trap as well. I've read that the majority of microbubbles come from the skimmer. But I could be wrong.
Some people seem to have trouble with the skimmer putting out tons of bubbles, but I honestly think a large majority of the micro bubbles actually comes from where the water enters the sump from the DT. It's pretty turbulent, that's why some elect to incorporate a bubble tower on the intake of the water from the DT.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcgrad http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today#post_3347038
This is the sump design I have come up with so far. The bubble trap baffles are 1" apart and 10" tall with the center piece 1" from the bottom. The fourth baffle is 14" tall. All baffles are 11 3/4" wide and 1/4" thick. Water will flow from a split line into the skimmer and refugium compartments. The skimmer compartment is largest due to the size of the skimmer. I plan on using the Reef Octupus NWB 110 4" skimmer (10" x 6.75" x 19.75"). If the skimmer were turned 90 degrees then the skimmer section would be slightly smaller. I don't know if doing this sacrifices skimmer efficiency. I may be overthinking it. I have read that this skimmer operates in an 8" water depth. If the depth is supposed to be lower then I can just set it on a stand. All thoughts and suggestions are welcomed!!! Thanks
Your a "thinker"
gcgrad
Member
Thanks for the advice acrylic! The design may be a little misleading but the 10.5" and 12.5" represent the distance from the left wall. I should have added an x and y axis to cut down on the confusion. The bubble trap baffles will be 10" tall and I guess I will use one 13" baffle for the refugium as you suggested. I'm thinking I will turn the skimmer 90 degrees and make the first compartment maybe 8". That will mean my return and refugium can be a little larger, the skimmer is good for a 110 gal tank and my DT will be 55 gal so I don't think I'll need an upgrade there. I didn't think about smoothing the refugium baffle so that is a great thought! I have been calling some local glass shops to get some quotes on the 5 baffle setup I had. I've gotten quotes ranging from $23-$40. I would like the refugium to have the teeth cut into the glass but am unsure if glass shops will do this. I also don't know if they will understand me when I ask for teeth to be cut into one side (they may think I'm crazy)!lol And thanks for the compliment about being a thinker!
I don't really make impulsive decisions, I like to make sure I'm going about doing something right before I actually do it. And it seems like that is extremely important in this hobby!!!
acropora12
Member
Wow you really have done your research! And welcome!
acrylic51
Active Member
Honestly I don't know if the glass shop would cut teeth. Honestly I don't know if it's even possible in glass, seems it would just get a little to fragile between the teeth to do it. I was assuming it was acrylic, but even so, they can round over the edge and polish it for your for a little extra.
2quills
Well-Known Member
Yeah I like the design too. I drew up a similar one here for another member which is essentially based off a Melevs designs. My thoughts on the second baffle for the fuge are kind of take or leave it when you're using glass. Since you can't cut teeth easily into the glass than it would act as a bubble trap. For smaller tanks/sumps it could be a nice to have and you really don't lose much volume in the return section other than the thickness of that baffle which isn't much, just a smaller area for a pump is all. However if you're not pushing a ton of water through the fuge than bubbles probably aren't going to be a huge issue for you. But if you were to have teeth cut into the baffle then most of the water would probably just run right down the glass instead of dropping into the water below and creating bubbles. The only practical way that I can think of for cutting teeth into glass would be to pull out the diamond coated rotary bits and cut/grind them much in the same way you would use a router for cutting teeth into acrylic. But it seems like it would be pretty time consuming so it might cost you some coin if you were to pay someone to do it.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today/20#post_3348010
Honestly I don't know if the glass shop would cut teeth. Honestly I don't know if it's even possible in glass, seems it would just get a little to fragile between the teeth to do it. I was assuming it was acrylic, but even so, they can round over the edge and polish it for your for a little extra.
If they can't cut teeth in glass, is there a way to make a glass bubble trap at all?
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/383014/officially-joined-the-hobby-today/20#post_3348010
Honestly I don't know if the glass shop would cut teeth. Honestly I don't know if it's even possible in glass, seems it would just get a little to fragile between the teeth to do it. I was assuming it was acrylic, but even so, they can round over the edge and polish it for your for a little extra.
If they can't cut teeth in glass, is there a way to make a glass bubble trap at all?
gcgrad
Member
New sump design with color coordination. I think to simplify things I will have the edge of the fifth baffle (left to right) rounded to encourage water to flow down the glass. I will leave the fourth baffle to further nullify microbubbles. I will control the water flow to the refugium with a valve to reduce velocity. On a simple note, I plan to have a piece of egg crate on the fifth baffle running vertically to the canopy to prevent snails that may be in the fuge from escaping into the return. I know those little guys have free rein when it comes to aquariums.lol Thanks for all the advice and input everyone!!!
al&burke
Active Member
I like the idea you have of runnng the eggcrate all the way up to keep snails and such in the fuge. Also the extra baffle at the fuge will liminate any posible bubbles from your fuge - especially if your return gets low (if you don't have an ATO) something I need to order soon.