ok 540 again

acrylic51

Active Member
Took a glance at the pics.....Is the front seam where you say it's leaking it appears that it has a white hazy look to it......I know it's not slurry though.....That makes me a bit apprehensive on the integrity.....
Either way I'd give it a shot.....I wished I was close to you to get a good look at it.....Actually it would be fun trying to put it back together, plus I have all the solvents laying around the house as well.....When you go to pour the "fillets" make yourself some 45 jigs out of 2x4's.....I made a pair for my plywood tank when pouring epoxy in the corners, and that's were I came up with the idea when I did my build. Held the tank perfectly in place and plenty strong......Again on the initial joint I'd shoot it with WeldOn 4.....You want the solvent to flow freely into that joint. Worse case if the joint is hazy as I'm seeing it, it won't make the haze disappear, but might make it hard to see if you got complete coverage in the joint.....
Keep in mind that WeldOn 40 is NO STRONGER than WeldOn 3 or 4.....The only time it is stronger is if it is annealed. That would be impossible for you to do. There is a trick to working with the WeldOn 40 though.....As I had mentioned it's a 2 part, but when your mixing you'll have to stir it quite a bit to get it mixed well, but don't stir it crazy.....You want to try to minimize injecting air bubbles into the mixture. When you first start mixing the solvent it will be a yellowish color, but as it mixes it will turn clear, and the smell is potent so have good ventilation.....It will give you mad head rush......
Let the mixture sit a bit.......as you let the the mixture sit, you'll see whatever bubbles you did inject will actually rise and pop, so the longer you wait, you can almost get all the bubbles out......You can only wait though but so long.....Another trick I learned with dealing with bubbles is to pour the solvent from the bottom of the container instead of the top.....Hard to understand, but it's actually a neat little trick that you'll never have to worry about bubbles......
 

deejeff442

Active Member
so weld on #4 or #40? i looked at the site you sent the triangles dont have a 90. so would the one inch square work? i plan to grind out the huge overflow boxes and just put durso pipes.then run the return overtop.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by deejeff442 http:///t/391633/ok-540-again/40#post_3474816
so weld on #4 or #40? i looked at the site you sent the triangles dont have a 90. so would the one inch square work? i plan to grind out the huge overflow boxes and just put durso pipes.then run the return overtop.
Check TotalPlastics for the triangles.....I have a place local on my route, but they have a minimum charge of $75.00 on all orders......You could also buy the squares and take them to a router table and cut them down with a 45 degree bit as well.
As far as solvent.....The initial repair you should use the WeldOn 4......That is the "watery" solvent you want to try to inject between the bottom of the front panel and the bottom panel of the tank.....You'll never get the WeldOn 40 between the 2 panels.
Use the WeldOn 40 for installing the reinforcement pieces to the tank........
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Ive seen many tanks on RC that have blowouts from improperly repaired acrylic tanks. All I can say is best of luck!
If it were me, however, and it was my 500+g tank, I would PAY an insured professional to come do it for me. That way, I would have someone to blame if it did happen. LOL
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/391633/ok-540-again/40#post_3474821
Ive seen many tanks on RC that have blowouts from improperly repaired acrylic tanks. All I can say is best of luck!
If it were me, however, and it was my 500+g tank, I would PAY an insured professional to come do it for me. That way, I would have someone to blame if it did happen. LOL
A real professional.......They would take MDF jigs and 2 sided tape and cut the bottom completely off the tank and replace, and the top would be done as well.....The radius cutouts in the top euro bracing are to small as well........
 

deejeff442

Active Member
no guts no glory lol
ok so try to shoot the thin stuff in the existing seam then the thick to weld the repair.SIMPLE lol.
i am game
i am thinking why bother with the triangle? wouldnt the square be stronger anyway?
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by deejeff442 http:///t/391633/ok-540-again/40#post_3474826
no guts no glory lol
ok so try to shoot the thin stuff in the existing seam then the thick to weld the repair.SIMPLE lol. Yep
i am game
i am thinking why bother with the triangle? wouldn't the square be stronger anyway? They might be a bit stronger, due to more material in the squares, but aesthetically speaking might not look good.....Either way you still will only have 2 gluing surface whichever you use.....
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by deejeff442 http:///t/391633/ok-540-again/40#post_3474826
no guts no glory lol
ok so try to shoot the thin stuff in the existing seam then the thick to weld the repair.SIMPLE lol.
i am game
i am thinking why bother with the triangle? wouldnt the square be stronger anyway?
what about a rhomboid?
Just kidding.
In all seriousness.....
Acrylic... take over. lol. Night Jeff!
 

acrylic51

Active Member

Not talking about the integrity of the joint between the top and the rest of the tank....I'm speaking more on the nature or size of the radius or corners of the bracing.......What I'm saying is the cutouts (corners; rounded portion) are way to small tight for this size tank.....The smaller the radius cut, the less ability it has at distributing the stress......A larger radius; diameter will distribute the stress a lot better than what you have.....That is why I said If it were me; I'd cut the top and bottom of totally and redo it correctly and have total piece of mind.....
You'll find some acrylic tanks or sumps that you'll see people either cut squared inside corners instead of curves.....Squared corners are a know breaking point, because they don't distribute the stress load.......They will crack dead in the center of the cut......With a small radius cut you still run a risk, and your odds get better the bigger the radius cut. Also people like to skimp and glue strips, sorta like how they build and euro brace glass tanks.....Fine in that aspect, but does nothing for an acrylic build....A weak link.....Some will say it saves cost as far as materials, but when you have this much time and money invested in a build or a system the cost is minimal. When I built my acrylic tank, I didn't skimp 1 bit.....1" material for everything.....I could have skimped and glued strips for the top bracing, but doing my homework I knew the correct was was to build the top with 1 solid piece and large radius cuts......Added another $1000 to the build.......
 

deejeff442

Active Member
yes its that tall.think it would help to add a square to the inside top rim? since i will be glueing anyway. also i was reading about the weld on and it said to sant to a 220-400 grit no smooth.although 400 it pretty damn smooth. if i wet sand my concrete countertops to a 200 grit it is as smooth as glass
 

acrylic51

Active Member
I never sand my edges on acrylic.......All my edges are always done either with a router or done on a jointer.......200 grit IMO is pretty rough for an edge.......Honestly not sure if the squares will do much on the bracing.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
If the pieces are near perfect smooth when you get them then you really shouldn't have to sand anything accept maybe the ends where you cut them if it's a pretty rough cut. I don't really think I'd bother reinforcing under the brace to much unless the joints already look suspect?
You don't have any joints that look like this do ya?
 
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