Old Tank Syndrome
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acrylic51
Active Member
Quote:Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome#post_3309924
In order for a DSB to work to take out nitrates, it must be undisturbed. The bacteria that grows in there is different than those that grow on the rocks and break down ammonia to nitrites then nitrates…The DSB has fauna in it the goby sifts away, the good bacteria that breaks down nitrates are not there to change it to harmless gas. So the DSB is useless in my tank. Some areas are 0 down to the glass and other places it may be 6 inches deep ,,but that changes as the goby re-arranges the sand daily.
I did test my CHANGE water and as suspected the PH is the same
PH is 8.0.
Nitrates are 0
KH is 8 = 143.2
Cal seemed high at 520
Flower your definition of undisturbed is incorrect.... When they state that they are talking about digging all the way to the bottom of the sand bed and disturbing it.... Turning over the too layer will not disturb anything. There are articles that will back my statement that the nitrification and denitrification process takes place within the top 3/4" or so, so the theory od needing a true DSB is inaccurate for all intent and purposes of the sense to maintain a thriving reef. If you research on how to properly maintain a sand bed they will discuss turning a small portion during maintenance, and then the next time do another area.... Again having no negative impact on your sand bed. If you look at some of the nicer tanks or sucessful tanks you will see that they do reseeding or service the sand bed.
When I tested my TANK water
PH = 8.0
Cal = 400 This number is right on the low edge of acceptable.
KH = 8 (143.2)
Nitrates today = 10
/>
In a well maintained tank, old tank syndrome is no problem, my tank was not always well maintained. According to the article I found everything that was ever in the tank is still there somewhere because it's a closed system.
Since the natural breakdown of nitrate to harmless gas is not there. I was thinking of the denitrator. That gizmo is kind of a "safe" vodka dosing method and it will take away every bit of algae from the tank. I don't want the urchin to starve, and the kole is only in the tank as part of my algae CUC. I may also get rid of the lawnmower Blenny, but I like him almost as much as the goby. The LMB eats algae sheets and that would become his only food source, I may let him go to a happier home.
.
In order for a DSB to work to take out nitrates, it must be undisturbed. The bacteria that grows in there is different than those that grow on the rocks and break down ammonia to nitrites then nitrates…The DSB has fauna in it the goby sifts away, the good bacteria that breaks down nitrates are not there to change it to harmless gas. So the DSB is useless in my tank. Some areas are 0 down to the glass and other places it may be 6 inches deep ,,but that changes as the goby re-arranges the sand daily.
I did test my CHANGE water and as suspected the PH is the same
PH is 8.0.
Nitrates are 0
KH is 8 = 143.2
Cal seemed high at 520
Flower your definition of undisturbed is incorrect.... When they state that they are talking about digging all the way to the bottom of the sand bed and disturbing it.... Turning over the too layer will not disturb anything. There are articles that will back my statement that the nitrification and denitrification process takes place within the top 3/4" or so, so the theory od needing a true DSB is inaccurate for all intent and purposes of the sense to maintain a thriving reef. If you research on how to properly maintain a sand bed they will discuss turning a small portion during maintenance, and then the next time do another area.... Again having no negative impact on your sand bed. If you look at some of the nicer tanks or sucessful tanks you will see that they do reseeding or service the sand bed.
When I tested my TANK water
PH = 8.0
Cal = 400 This number is right on the low edge of acceptable.
KH = 8 (143.2)
Nitrates today = 10
/>
In a well maintained tank, old tank syndrome is no problem, my tank was not always well maintained. According to the article I found everything that was ever in the tank is still there somewhere because it's a closed system.
Since the natural breakdown of nitrate to harmless gas is not there. I was thinking of the denitrator. That gizmo is kind of a "safe" vodka dosing method and it will take away every bit of algae from the tank. I don't want the urchin to starve, and the kole is only in the tank as part of my algae CUC. I may also get rid of the lawnmower Blenny, but I like him almost as much as the goby. The LMB eats algae sheets and that would become his only food source, I may let him go to a happier home.
.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310042
What is your maintenance as far as your LR?
I don't do anything with the rock
I tried to blast it with a turkey baster as suggested but nothing was on them, I have so much water movement they were clear. I did it just the other day. The goby does dump sand on the lower ones, but it clears off by itself. I also squeezed some pods onto them once, I have an in tank refugium I seeded too. That was some months ago. The little refugium... I can see critters moving around in there.
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310042
What is your maintenance as far as your LR?
I don't do anything with the rock
geoj
Active Member
I have not read all of the previous post so I will start by telling you the simple fact old tank syndrome is the end result of a sand bed that does not complete the nitrogen cycle. The next thing that will happen if this is old tank syndrome is you will lose all your live stock because waste will build up. You need to remove all the live sand and replace it with new.
What happens in the old tank syndrome is fine waste stacks up in the sand reducing the oxygenated sand layer to such a small amount that ammonia and nitrite are no longer converted as they have been in the past and those people that do not test these because they assume they don't need to are the victims of a full tank crash "old tank syndrome"
So if your ammonia and nitrite are out of the ordinarily high remove the old sand...
What happens in the old tank syndrome is fine waste stacks up in the sand reducing the oxygenated sand layer to such a small amount that ammonia and nitrite are no longer converted as they have been in the past and those people that do not test these because they assume they don't need to are the victims of a full tank crash "old tank syndrome"
So if your ammonia and nitrite are out of the ordinarily high remove the old sand...
meowzer
Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoJ http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310081
I have not read all of the previous post so I will start by telling you the simple fact old tank syndrome is the end result of a sand bed that does not complete the nitrogen cycle. The next thing that will happen if this is old tank syndrome is you will lose all your live stock because waste will build up. You need to remove all the live sand and replace it with new.
What happens in the old tank syndrome is fine waste stacks up in the sand reducing the oxygenated sand layer to such a small amount that ammonia and nitrite are no longer converted as they have been in the past and those people that do not test these because they assume they don't need to are the victims of a full tank crash "old tank syndrome"
So if your ammonia and nitrite are out of the ordinarily high remove the old sand...
Geoj.....how common is this syndrome?
Originally Posted by GeoJ http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310081
I have not read all of the previous post so I will start by telling you the simple fact old tank syndrome is the end result of a sand bed that does not complete the nitrogen cycle. The next thing that will happen if this is old tank syndrome is you will lose all your live stock because waste will build up. You need to remove all the live sand and replace it with new.
What happens in the old tank syndrome is fine waste stacks up in the sand reducing the oxygenated sand layer to such a small amount that ammonia and nitrite are no longer converted as they have been in the past and those people that do not test these because they assume they don't need to are the victims of a full tank crash "old tank syndrome"
So if your ammonia and nitrite are out of the ordinarily high remove the old sand...
Geoj.....how common is this syndrome?
meowzer
Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310085
Meowzer it is common......I've seen it wipe a LFS display tank out!!!!! And if you'd ask them to this day they will tell you that was the culprit.
Now that makes me nervous......are their signs to look for? Or just keep checking your tests?
for those of us who have NO ONE to swap sand with....what do you do????
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310085
Meowzer it is common......I've seen it wipe a LFS display tank out!!!!! And if you'd ask them to this day they will tell you that was the culprit.
Now that makes me nervous......are their signs to look for? Or just keep checking your tests?
for those of us who have NO ONE to swap sand with....what do you do????
scopus tang
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome#post_3309954
Agree!!!!! The key is water changes (dilutio is the solution). The sandbed should be reseeded as well. The theory or concept of needing a DSB to keep a good tank is incorrect. A SSB as deep as 1" can handle the load. All sandbeds regardless of depth do need maintenance. That again is key and should be researched for future reference. Awhile back(years ago) we did thermos trades here.... Again that is/was the intent or purpose of that. To keep the sandbeds live and thriving.
A later post of some sort of media IMHO isn't the fix or cure. That would do nothing more than mask the issue at hand.
Shawn your are quite correct, nor was I trying to imply that a DSB was required. However, Flower's issue is nitrates, and a shallow sandbed does not support the anaerobic bacteria that breaks down nitrates into harmless nitrogen gas and allows it to exit the aquarium. Thus, for a shallow sandbed to function in the complete breakdown of ammonia to nitrogen gas, requires the addition of some sort of micro or macro producer which is able to export the nitrates via consumption for growth this is why we add a refugium with chaeto or some other macro algae on most modern tank systems. The shallow sandbed bacteria convert the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate, the micro or macro algae then consumes the nitrate and we export the nitrates from our system by harvesting the macro algae or through the consumption of micro algae. Simply put, shallow sandbeds will not breakdown nitrates. All sandbeds do indeed need maintance and should be reseeded on a regular basis, regardless of the presence of sandsifting critters or not. Too bad the thermos trades died off - I try and add a cup or so of sand from other mature systems to my tank at least once a year, and prefer to do so twice a year. Setting up a sand exchange with other local hobbiests is also a great way to do this. Introducing and maintaining biodiversity is the key to a healthy sandbed, regardless of whether it is shallow or deep.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome#post_3309991
This stuff says feshwater tanks only, I see it in the LFS all the time.
Bang Guy,
You make sense but what can cause such high constant amonia to be converted to nitrates? This is a 90g tank. I could add more rock. OH I hate the thought, I know what critters live in what I have. I don't think I have over stocked, (8 fish) and I only feed the fish one thawed out rinsed cube of Mysis shrimp a day. Every other day I add an algae sheet, the urchin is leaving very little for the tangs and dwarf angel. Nothing has died, nothing is rotting, I don't have an algae problem or phosphates.
I'm running two caniter filters, I could, and have considered changing to a Rapids Pro wet/dry canister type filter...it is either that or the denitrator. Do you think changing the filter would help?
Did I miss something? I don't see any posts in the thread by Bang Guy? As for what could cause such a high constant presence of ammonia - ammonia is constantly being produced in your system; the fish excretions, the uneaten mysis, and any uneaten fragments of the algae sheet all contribute to the final level of nitrates in your system. Also, you said that you didn't regularly maintain your tank prior to joining this site - suffiently high levels of trapped debris from the time period could be continuing to break down and add to your nutrient levels (unlikely if that was quite some time ago, but still possible) - when was the last time you lifted any of your rock off the sandbed to see how much "gunk" is trapped underneath the LR? Obviously if you are not reading any levels of ammonia or nitrites, your system has proper levels of bacteria of two types; those that convert ammonia to nitrite and those that convert nitrite to nitrate. What you are missing is sufficient methods of removing/exporting the nitrates.
As for your comments on DSB which I didn't get quoted, a couple of comments:
1. DSB must remain undisturbed; actually not technically correct - DSB need to be maintained just as Shawn stated. A DSB can be vaccumed in the upper portion and the upper portion should be turned over regularly by sand-dwelling fauna.
2. A large enough aquarium with a deep enough DSB will support both a fully functioning DSB and a sand-sifting goby - if the sandbed is deep enough and proper methodoligy is used to set it up, there is no way a sandsifting goby can delve deeply enough into the sandbed to reach the lower levels at which disruption of the sandbed becomes potentially hazordous (note: there are fish that will, but sand-sifting gobies like the diamond or yellow watchmen will not). Note that this is not dependent on the total volume of the aquarium, but rather the surface area of the bottom of the aquarium. I cannot tell you exactly were that line is, but I have seen both 120 and 125 gallon aquariums with fully functioning DSBs support diamond or yellow watchman gobies. Of the two; the yellow watchman is much easier to support than the diamond.
And finally, the bacteria in a DSB and the bacteria in LR that convert nitrates into harmless nitrogen gas are the same; Anaerobic bacteria living deep within the non oxygenated portions of the LR or deep within the non oxygenated sandbed.
HTH
geoj
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome#post_3309924
In order for a DSB to work to take out nitrates, it must be undisturbed.
This is a misunderstanding you need to siphon a deep sand bed if you do not have the small worms and other life that circulate the water deep in the sand. What most people do not know is that these small but very important animals are part of what defines a deep sand bed without them it is not a deep sand bed. Water is circulated from the top oxygenate area down to the low oxygen area by these worms and other life. People that say do not stir a DSB, are saying this because of hydrogen sulfide producing bacteria not because the string changes or kills the different Anaerobic and Aerobic bacteria. The string does not effect the bio-filter enough to show a waste increase. The bacteria will out grow the temporary change in the sand quickly. The key here is you only siphon once every few months so the disruption happens rarely but you get the waste out.
scopus tang
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310097
So If I have a 4"dsb in my 225G....and I can look under the tank...and see bristle worms on the glass....should I be okay....you guys have me nervous now
I also have nassarius snails, and conch, and a small yellow head goby
Why wouldn't you be? As stated above, the fauna is a big factor in what allows the water to circulate downward through the DSB. Your bristle worms burrowing through the sand is going to allow proper circulation of water through the sandbed. The issue with DSBs is a large scale disturbance that happens suddenly - allowing trapped hydrogen sulfide gas to escape to the top of the DSB quickly.
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310097
So If I have a 4"dsb in my 225G....and I can look under the tank...and see bristle worms on the glass....should I be okay....you guys have me nervous now
I also have nassarius snails, and conch, and a small yellow head goby
Why wouldn't you be? As stated above, the fauna is a big factor in what allows the water to circulate downward through the DSB. Your bristle worms burrowing through the sand is going to allow proper circulation of water through the sandbed. The issue with DSBs is a large scale disturbance that happens suddenly - allowing trapped hydrogen sulfide gas to escape to the top of the DSB quickly.
acrylic51
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scopus Tang http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310101
Why wouldn't you be? As stated above, the fauna is a big factor in what allows the water to circulate downward through the DSB. Your bristle worms burrowing through the sand is going to allow proper circulation of water through the sandbed. The issue with DSBs is a large scale disturbance that happens suddenly - allowing trapped hydrogen sulfide gas to escape to the top of the DSB quickly.
Originally Posted by Scopus Tang http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310101
Why wouldn't you be? As stated above, the fauna is a big factor in what allows the water to circulate downward through the DSB. Your bristle worms burrowing through the sand is going to allow proper circulation of water through the sandbed. The issue with DSBs is a large scale disturbance that happens suddenly - allowing trapped hydrogen sulfide gas to escape to the top of the DSB quickly.
geoj
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scopus Tang http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310088
Shawn your are quite correct, nor was I trying to imply that a DSB was required. However, Flower's issue is nitrates, and a shallow sandbed does not support the anaerobic bacteria that breaks down nitrates into harmless nitrogen gas and allows it to exit the aquarium. Thus, for a shallow sandbed to function in the complete breakdown of ammonia to nitrogen gas, requires the addition of some sort of micro or macro producer which is able to export the nitrates via consumption for growth this is why we add a refugium with chaeto or some other macro algae on most modern tank systems. The shallow sandbed bacteria convert the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate, the micro or macro algae then consumes the nitrate and we export the nitrates from our system by harvesting the macro algae or through the consumption of micro algae. Simply put, shallow sandbeds will not breakdown nitrates. All sandbeds do indeed need maintance and should be reseeded on a regular basis, regardless of the presence of sandsifting critters or not. Too bad the thermos trades died off - I try and add a cup or so of sand from other mature systems to my tank at least once a year, and prefer to do so twice a year. Setting up a sand exchange with other local hobbiests is also a great way to do this. Introducing and maintaining biodiversity is the key to a healthy sandbed, regardless of whether it is shallow or deep.
Did I miss something? I don't see any posts in the thread by Bang Guy? As for what could cause such a high constant presence of ammonia - ammonia is constantly being produced in your system; the fish excretions, the uneaten mysis, and any uneaten fragments of the algae sheet all contribute to the final level of nitrates in your system. Also, you said that you didn't regularly maintain your tank prior to joining this site - suffiently high levels of trapped debris from the time period could be continuing to break down and add to your nutrient levels (unlikely if that was quite some time ago, but still possible) - when was the last time you lifted any of your rock off the sandbed to see how much "gunk" is trapped underneath the LR? Obviously if you are not reading any levels of ammonia or nitrites, your system has proper levels of bacteria of two types; those that convert ammonia to nitrite and those that convert nitrite to nitrate. What you are missing is sufficient methods of removing/exporting the nitrates.
As for your comments on DSB which I didn't get quoted, a couple of comments:
1. DSB must remain undisturbed; actually not technically correct - DSB need to be maintained just as Shawn stated. A DSB can be vaccumed in the upper portion and the upper portion should be turned over regularly by sand-dwelling fauna.
2. A large enough aquarium with a deep enough DSB will support both a fully functioning DSB and a sand-sifting goby - if the sandbed is deep enough and proper methodoligy is used to set it up, there is no way a sandsifting goby can delve deeply enough into the sandbed to reach the lower levels at which disruption of the sandbed becomes potentially hazordous (note: there are fish that will, but sand-sifting gobies like the diamond or yellow watchmen will not). Note that this is not dependent on the total volume of the aquarium, but rather the surface area of the bottom of the aquarium. I cannot tell you exactly were that line is, but I have seen both 120 and 125 gallon aquariums with fully functioning DSBs support diamond or yellow watchman gobies. Of the two; the yellow watchman is much easier to support than the diamond.
And finally, the bacteria in a DSB and the bacteria in LR that convert nitrates into harmless nitrogen gas are the same; Anaerobic bacteria living deep within the non oxygenated portions of the LR or deep within the non oxygenated sandbed.
HTH
I agree
Originally Posted by Scopus Tang http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310088
Shawn your are quite correct, nor was I trying to imply that a DSB was required. However, Flower's issue is nitrates, and a shallow sandbed does not support the anaerobic bacteria that breaks down nitrates into harmless nitrogen gas and allows it to exit the aquarium. Thus, for a shallow sandbed to function in the complete breakdown of ammonia to nitrogen gas, requires the addition of some sort of micro or macro producer which is able to export the nitrates via consumption for growth this is why we add a refugium with chaeto or some other macro algae on most modern tank systems. The shallow sandbed bacteria convert the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate, the micro or macro algae then consumes the nitrate and we export the nitrates from our system by harvesting the macro algae or through the consumption of micro algae. Simply put, shallow sandbeds will not breakdown nitrates. All sandbeds do indeed need maintance and should be reseeded on a regular basis, regardless of the presence of sandsifting critters or not. Too bad the thermos trades died off - I try and add a cup or so of sand from other mature systems to my tank at least once a year, and prefer to do so twice a year. Setting up a sand exchange with other local hobbiests is also a great way to do this. Introducing and maintaining biodiversity is the key to a healthy sandbed, regardless of whether it is shallow or deep.
Did I miss something? I don't see any posts in the thread by Bang Guy? As for what could cause such a high constant presence of ammonia - ammonia is constantly being produced in your system; the fish excretions, the uneaten mysis, and any uneaten fragments of the algae sheet all contribute to the final level of nitrates in your system. Also, you said that you didn't regularly maintain your tank prior to joining this site - suffiently high levels of trapped debris from the time period could be continuing to break down and add to your nutrient levels (unlikely if that was quite some time ago, but still possible) - when was the last time you lifted any of your rock off the sandbed to see how much "gunk" is trapped underneath the LR? Obviously if you are not reading any levels of ammonia or nitrites, your system has proper levels of bacteria of two types; those that convert ammonia to nitrite and those that convert nitrite to nitrate. What you are missing is sufficient methods of removing/exporting the nitrates.
As for your comments on DSB which I didn't get quoted, a couple of comments:
1. DSB must remain undisturbed; actually not technically correct - DSB need to be maintained just as Shawn stated. A DSB can be vaccumed in the upper portion and the upper portion should be turned over regularly by sand-dwelling fauna.
2. A large enough aquarium with a deep enough DSB will support both a fully functioning DSB and a sand-sifting goby - if the sandbed is deep enough and proper methodoligy is used to set it up, there is no way a sandsifting goby can delve deeply enough into the sandbed to reach the lower levels at which disruption of the sandbed becomes potentially hazordous (note: there are fish that will, but sand-sifting gobies like the diamond or yellow watchmen will not). Note that this is not dependent on the total volume of the aquarium, but rather the surface area of the bottom of the aquarium. I cannot tell you exactly were that line is, but I have seen both 120 and 125 gallon aquariums with fully functioning DSBs support diamond or yellow watchman gobies. Of the two; the yellow watchman is much easier to support than the diamond.
And finally, the bacteria in a DSB and the bacteria in LR that convert nitrates into harmless nitrogen gas are the same; Anaerobic bacteria living deep within the non oxygenated portions of the LR or deep within the non oxygenated sandbed.
HTH
I agree
acrylic51
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoJ http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310091
This is a misunderstanding you need to siphon a deep sand bed if you do not have the small worms and other life that circulate the water deep in the sand. What most people do not know is that these small but very important animals are part of what defines a deep sand bed without them it is not a deep sand bed. Water is circulated from the top oxygenate area down to the low oxygen area by these worms and other life. People that say do not stir a DSB, are saying this because of hydrogen sulfide producing bacteria not because the string changes or kills the different Anaerobic and Aerobic bacteria. The string does not effect the bio-filter enough to show a waste increase. The bacteria will out grow the temporary change in the sand quickly. The key here is you only siphon once every few months so the disruption happens rarely but you get the waste out.
Your the MAN!!!!!! said so beautifully!!!!!!!
A lot of people are under the assumption that you put the DSB in and presto!!!!! it's there forever.....And as GeoJ just confirmed the "bacteria will out grow the temporary change in the sand bed.....That is why I had stated about doing a small area at a time....Not turning the whole sandbed.
Originally Posted by GeoJ http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310091
This is a misunderstanding you need to siphon a deep sand bed if you do not have the small worms and other life that circulate the water deep in the sand. What most people do not know is that these small but very important animals are part of what defines a deep sand bed without them it is not a deep sand bed. Water is circulated from the top oxygenate area down to the low oxygen area by these worms and other life. People that say do not stir a DSB, are saying this because of hydrogen sulfide producing bacteria not because the string changes or kills the different Anaerobic and Aerobic bacteria. The string does not effect the bio-filter enough to show a waste increase. The bacteria will out grow the temporary change in the sand quickly. The key here is you only siphon once every few months so the disruption happens rarely but you get the waste out.
geoj
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scopus Tang http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310101
Why wouldn't you be? As stated above, the fauna is a big factor in what allows the water to circulate downward through the DSB. Your bristle worms burrowing through the sand is going to allow proper circulation of water through the sand bed. The issue with DSBs is a large scale disturbance that happens suddenly - allowing trapped hydrogen sulfide gas to escape to the top of the DSB quickly.
This is correct if the hydrogen sulfide bacteria where allowed to form. So if you start a sand bed and you stir it you cant stop for a year and start string it again this would put your livestock at risk.
scopus tang
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoJ http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310102
I would test the ammonia and the nitrite if they are zero then you still have some time. I would stop any feeding and move one or two fish out and see if it is just over stocked.
GeoJ, just an FYI Flower stated earlier in the thread that she was getting zero on her ammonia tests.
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310104
No need to bow or apologize to me - you and GeoJ have accurately contributed just as much as I have - thank you all for a interesting and lively discussion.
geoj
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///forum/thread/380319/old-tank-syndrome/20#post_3310083
Geoj.....how common is this syndrome?
It is not very common with are new ways of keeping are sand beds. Yet it can happen to all of us no mater what type of sand maintenance you do. You, and I am talking to any one that reads this, must test ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate... Or at least when you get more nitrate than normal. It is the only real way you can know what is happening with the bio-filter.
The last I rember the age that people clamed OTS crashed there tank was at 3 years old. So test, test, and test.
