Opinions NEEDED! Is there are market for this?

aviator

Member
I really hope it lives up to expectations! I'm ready to have the test units out there in the "real world" and ge some feedback. I'm currently selecting the design for the front face "box" , as soon as I've decied on it, I will post a photo of it.
my thought is to have the unit so that it can hang on the edge of the tank, anyone have other good ideas on how to mount the face and control panel? several mounting options would be good I think. Right now the buttons are going to be slim-line tacile buttons or stainless steel. not sure whch yet. it's all about price.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
I would vote against the unit hanging on the aquarium all together. I would fashion the mounting dyslexia option just as the AquaControllers and ReefKeepers. I would rather have the ability to mount if flat on a wall or recess it customly into a stand build or such. With a stardard flat back, rectangular back or squared off would be much more advantageous of the unit rather than any type of hanging lip IMHO. I feel most hobbyist wouldn't want something hanging off their setup. Mounting as I had suggested could be done with simple heavy duty Velcro; just as Neptune uses. Yes the heavy duty Velcro holds up just fine. I've had my AquaController mounted this way for over 5 years in my fishroom wall with nill issues!!!!!
Again loving it count me in!!!!
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
If you could get all of those advantages into one package for about $100 dollars, that is actually reliable and backed by a fair guarantee then I'd buy one in a heartbeat. I like the remote screen idea. I also like the idea of a "fancy" one with a nice little touch screen display...I'd definately pay a little more for a unit like that if it ever became available. I'll be curious to see how this turns out as well.
What are the dimensions of the unit as it stands right now?
 

aviator

Member
The main brain of the unit is roughly 6 x 6 x 2 (this is where th toys plug in) - it's just a bare box with two LED's on it, one for power on, one for power "good" - the system uses a voltage supervisor chip to ensure everything is sympatico. the plugs are spaced out about like you would find on a regular surge strip, eac one has its' own resetable breaker to the side of it (each plug is it's own circuit)
the display is 6 x 2 x 2, it's not really "small" so I do like the idea of a simple square box as it's enclosure, this does make it easy to mount in a recessed panel. I also like the idea of just a blank contro panel... just a piece of stainless steel with the buttons and display mounted to it that could be added to a custom hood, cabinet or even mounted flush on a wall. once I'm done tinkering with it I will do a final mount on the front of the hood on my tank.
I am sure that my fish are ready for me to be done with this project!! LOL
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
So when the L is on your lights are on? It says in yuor spec sheet that it can control 3 different sets of lights, so if you had moonlights, daytime and actinic for instance all plugged in on seperate timers would you be able to see those seperatley or would it just always have the "L" on since the moonights come on when the actinics go off.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Jstdv8
http:///forum/post/3290552
So when the L is on your lights are on? It says in yuor spec sheet that it can control 3 different sets of lights, so if you had moonlights, daytime and actinic for instance all plugged in on seperate timers would you be able to see those seperatley or would it just always have the "L" on since the moonights come on when the actinics go off.
From the way it sounds to me you can call them whatever you want but it's only going to show the first letter of whichever piece of equipment is running at the time. So if you labbeled them in a way that you could understand them then you should see whatever is running. For instance...
H...for your Halides
L...for your Lunars
A...for your Actinics
Perhaps the light fixture he has on there now has just got a single cord to control the whole fixture. But if you are using 3 seperate cords to control your lights then you should be able to see whatever is on at that time for however you have it set up and labeled. Or at least that's my understanding...I could be wrong.
 

aviator

Member
Thats correct, name the five devices whatever you want, the unit refers to them based on the first letter of that name. a it stands right now my MH and actinics are all running off the same "channel" on the unit - I used very basic wording when I named my different channels, but you can name them whatever you want, up to 10 characters.
there is a group of 6 buttons on the interface, 5 of them will control on/off/timer modes for each of the devices, the 6th button causes the unit to enter setup mode. the other five buttons are then use to program the on and off time for each device, the date and time for the unit, the temp alarm and alarm action and the names of each device.
I'll see if I can't get a good photo of the overall interface this weekend. right now, mine is set up as a custom installation in my aquarium hood, but it will give you a better idea of how it works. I may even be able to make a little movie of how it works and post a link to it as well.
 

aviator

Member
Just wanted to give everyone an update. I'm still waiting on boards to come in and have been placing orders for all the components to start putting the test units together and ran into a little logistics problem with the switches.
Here's what I was hoping to be able to use. (the one on right has the blue LED turned on) - they are very cool, waterproof, stainless steed switches... quite nice.. and quite pricey I was hoping to use them since my contact at Bulgin sent me several to play with - juts as a "hey check these out!". At nearly $25 a piece, this obviously blows the budget. so, I'm looking for an alternative pushbutton switch, or even a membrane keypad to use. I have several options to go with and have a few test switches on the way to me. I'll let you know what I find. I'll keep everyone posted.

so far, the total build cost is a little under $80.00 with a good alternative switch. this includes everything from the power cord to the LCD display.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by aviator
http:///forum/post/3292573
Just wanted to give everyone an update. I'm still waiting on boards to come in and have been placing orders for all the components to start putting the test units together and ran into a little logistics problem with the switches.
Here's what I was hoping to be able to use. (the one on right has the blue LED turned on) - they are very cool, waterproof, stainless steed switches... quite nice.. and quite pricey I was hoping to use them since my contact at Bulgin sent me several to play with - juts as a "hey check these out!". At nearly $25 a piece, this obviously blows the budget. so, I'm looking for an alternative pushbutton switch, or even a membrane keypad to use. I have several options to go with and have a few test switches on the way to me. I'll let you know what I find. I'll keep everyone posted.

so far, the total build cost is a little under $80.00 with a good alternative switch. this includes everything from the power cord to the LCD display.

Just a word of caution...Your good ideas could be stolen from you by posting like you are doing, than all your efforts would be for nothing and that would be a shame. Not everyone is honest and the internet is haunted by all types of people. Most inventors keep good ideas close to them and hidden until they have a patten, I think is what they call it.
To be honest, if your invention can do all the stuff you are trying to do…I would pay more than $100.00 for it..believe me.
Sorry if I sound preachy, just trying to help.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
That's a cool switch. I'd pay a few extra bucks to have that one to go with the blue display.
Maybe a good way to set yourself apart from the other guys other than good quality for a good price is make them upgradable at time of purchase. This way people could pick what they want instead of being stuck with basically only one or two options. And if the price happens to go over $100, then so be it.
 

aviator

Member
Understood flower, thanks. Really though, you could take one of these units, replicate the board, buy all the parts and put it together and it still wouldn't work. Why? the code insnide the processor. thats the magic behind it... without that, nothing works.
I have patent information in the works already, it's "patent pending" right now for both technical and design patents.
The upgrade idea is a really good one, adding special features and making it totally customizable is a great idea! The way it's put together, I could easily make lots of cool upgrades for it, just plug and play.
Again, the design of the code is the secret, and the uProcessr is not reverse-engineerable... I'm making sure of that. Even the output to the display is proprietary, meaning you couldn't just take any LCD and connect it up, it has to specifically for the unit.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by aviator
http:///forum/post/3292696
Understood flower, thanks. Really though, you could take one of these units, replicate the board, buy all the parts and put it together and it still wouldn't work. Why? the code insnide the processor. thats the magic behind it... without that, nothing works.
I have patent information in the works already, it's "patent pending" right now for both technical and design patents.
The upgrade idea is a really good one, adding special features and making it totally customizable is a great idea! The way it's put together, I could easily make lots of cool upgrades for it, just plug and play.
Again, the design of the code is the secret, and the uProcessr is not reverse-engineerable... I'm making sure of that. Even the output to the display is proprietary, meaning you couldn't just take any LCD and connect it up, it has to specifically for the unit.


Just looking out for you...It is a great idea!
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
Originally Posted by aviator
http:///forum/post/3292573
Just wanted to give everyone an update. I'm still waiting on boards to come in and have been placing orders for all the components to start putting the test units together and ran into a little logistics problem with the switches.
Here's what I was hoping to be able to use. (the one on right has the blue LED turned on) - they are very cool, waterproof, stainless steed switches... quite nice.. and quite pricey I was hoping to use them since my contact at Bulgin sent me several to play with - juts as a "hey check these out!". At nearly $25 a piece, this obviously blows the budget. so, I'm looking for an alternative pushbutton switch, or even a membrane keypad to use. I have several options to go with and have a few test switches on the way to me. I'll let you know what I find. I'll keep everyone posted.

so far, the total build cost is a little under $80.00 with a good alternative switch. this includes everything from the power cord to the LCD display.
Those look sweet, and i appreciate that you don't bite your thumbnails :)
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by aviator
http:///forum/post/3293246
LOL, jstdv8...
part of being a non pick-using guitar player.

If I ever take a picture and my hands show... I am wearing gloves, just to keep Jstdv8 on the edge of his seat....wondering
 

ibew41

Active Member
if you just make money on the code I dont think it would work.The first time you sell the unit the code will be cracked and be downloaded on other boards or web sites.
 

aviator

Member
I supposed it's possible, if someone wanted to spend hours and hours and hours trying to crack the code on the chip. The beautiful thing about how this is put together is the methods in place that making the "cracking" of the code fairly difficult. I am a professional network engineer by trade so I know that you can reverse engineer anything... it's making that reverse engineering so difficult that it's not worth the time or trouble.
Can it be done? yeah, probably. would it be worth the months of effort it would take to do it? no, probably not. It's impossible to make something "uncrackable" - it is, however, possible to make it so time consuming and difficult that it's just not worth the effort.
I'm not really that interested in becoming a millionaire off of one device like this, but it would be a great starting device that might lead to newer and different devices. All along, the thought has been to sell a base unit that has all the functinality that I mentioned in my first post and then to make add-on modules or devices to make the unit expandable for a more customized look or a more functions. We'll see how it goes.
This won't be the first electronic device I've brought to market and I'm sure it won't be the last. Who knows, it may end up getting sold to a larger manufacturer - I've done that before as well.
As an update, I'm working with a company now to make a membrane switch unit to go with the display. the goal is to ensure that the switches are waterproof, has at least two different light colors, and run on low voltage.
I am also beginning work on the graphical LCD display instead of the basic 2 lines of text that the unit has now. I think I am gong to be able to make this change without affecting the units price. This would allow the unit to display each devices full name and state instead of just the first letter of the device. I am also considering having the display show a graph of temperatures at the bottom of the unit. this would allow the user to monitor temperature trends over a period of time (day, week, month) - which I can see would be important to those that have temperature sensitive life in the tank such as anemonies and most corals.
I started thinkin about this graph because I know that my tank cools off quite a bit at night. In fact, I think I have a temperature swing of 4-7 degrees, but unless I get up in the middle of the night to check it, I won't know.
The final thing I am looking at doing it adding a water level monitor to the unit so that the user can track evaporation - this may lead to an auto top off add-on...
Right now I am trying to concentrate on getting the main unit to market, but that requires me to think about all the things I want to add on, so that those ports are available in the future, even if the code isn't written just yet. With that being said, the first "test" units that will be available shortly will not have these special ports on them since the boards are being cut without them. the final production units will have them.
Lots of features rattling around in my head that I want to add. The great thing is that I have the headroom in the processor to perform lots of cool functions and my code space isn't really limited...
As soon as I have the Graphic LCD running, I will post a photo of it. Keep in mind that it will be pretty small - I am trying to keep the footprint small.
 
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