PEZenfuego's 4 gallon Pico Tank Diary

S

smallreef

Guest
Is the chaeto scared of the dark?lol
Is that even bright enough???
and if its that tiny amount do you think its going to do anything for your tank?
 
S

smallreef

Guest
depends on the amount of chaeto... you have to have enough to make a difference...
if you have less than a handful I cant imagine it doing anything for your water....
 

pezenfuego

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by smallreef http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary/120#post_3500041
depends on the amount of chaeto... you have to have enough to make a difference...
if you have less than a handful I cant imagine it doing anything for your water....
There's a pretty big volume in that little upflow filter, especially compared to the tank's volume. But I get your point. If the chaeto doesn't work out, I'll keep the filter around to run carbon if I need to.
The tank is taking on that nice cycle smell, if you know what I mean. It doesn't smell bad necessarily, but it definitely has an odor. I also noticed a very small amount of diatom algae.
 

pezenfuego

Active Member
Update:
I will test my levels again tomorrow, but I have a few things to report:
1) My upflow filter works! I will get algae for it when I get some inverts later.
2) MORE DIATOM ALGAE! I'm excited about that. I also have what appears to be a very little amount of hair algae. With nitrates this steep, I wouldn't be surprised if that blossomed.
3) I used to have a 95 gph pump on this filter and it didn't work at all. The water would only get pumped up so far. Then I found another from home that was also 95 gph. This one is a little beast and is making me proud. Let it be known that brand matters.
The lesson I learned:
I placed the pump in the intake of the tank and let it sit overnight with the intention of setting it up in the morning. That was a mistake! The water level of the intake (and by extension the DT) rose because of the addition. Seeing as the intake water level rose, the water level in the return dropped. Because the water level in the return dropped, the float valve dropped. Because the float valve dropped, the ATO kicked on. It kicked on until the return refilled to its previous water level. Essentially, the volume of the pump was added (in freshwater) to the tank. That caused the salinity to decrease. This is a lesson learned and a mistake I will never make again. The cycle period is for more than just the nitrogen cycle. It is also a time to learn the ins and outs of your tank. Get to know it and share your secrets. Learn its hopes and dreams. Kiss it ever so tenderly...
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Quote:
The lesson I learned:
I placed the pump in the intake of the tank and let it sit overnight with the intention of setting it up in the morning. That was a mistake! The water level of the intake (and by extension the DT) rose because of the addition. Seeing as the intake water level rose, the water level in the return dropped. Because the water level in the return dropped, the float valve dropped. Because the float valve dropped, the ATO kicked on. It kicked on until the return refilled to its previous water level. Essentially, the volume of the pump was added (in freshwater) to the tank. That caused the salinity to decrease. This is a lesson learned and a mistake I will never make again. The cycle period is for more than just the nitrogen cycle. It is also a time to learn the ins and outs of your tank. Get to know it and share your secrets. Learn its hopes and dreams. Kiss it ever so tenderly
Can you explain this again to someone with limited intelligence (me) I don’t understand how if you add something to the total volume of water no matter where in your system you do, you get a reduction in the water level.
 

pezenfuego

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary/120#post_3500743
Can you explain this again to someone with limited intelligence (me) I don’t understand how if you add something to the total volume of water no matter where in your system you do, you get a reduction in the water level.
Okay, so this is a problem (I believe) that is exclusive to tanks of this nature. I didn't understand how this would affect anything either, until things got screwed up. I'll try to explain it as best I can and I honestly don't understand the physics of it entirely (I too was baffled-sump humor). Essentially, the tank has three water levels. It has the water level of the display tank itself, the water level of the intake, and the water level of the return. The water level of the intake and the display will always be equal. The water level of the return will always be lower than the other two. Now here's the part that I didn't predict. Adding the pump caused the water level in the intake to rise. Since the DT and intake must have an equal volume, the water level of the display tank rose as well. But the problem is that this volume of water in the DT had to come from somewhere. It came from the return (which is where the float valve happens to be. So, like I said, I don't understand this perfectly either, but I learned that I need to pay attention to the ATO whenever I add or take away anything from the tank (except food).
 

pezenfuego

Active Member
UDPATE: The tank is cycled!
But the amount of diatom algae is still quite low. I'm not quite sure why that is, but that's okay. Here's my plan:
1) Continue ghost feeding for the next week to let the algae build up a tad more.
2) Let it ferment over Thanksgiving Break (Until the 26th)
3) Do a 100% water change.
4) Ghost feed for another couple of days to check for an ammonia spike
5) Get CUC and chaeto (2 nass snails, 2 cerith snails, and a sexy shrimp)
6) Begin weekly water changing schedule (1 gallon per week).
7) Move the tank on approx Dec. 16th
8) Move it back in January (date unknown)
9) Let everything stabilize
10) Purchase a featherduster (cuco worm-I'll get a small one and supplement food if I need to as it becomes larger)
11) Purchase a fish
12) Start with some soft corals
13) Move up to LPS (I'll have the light by then)
 

pezenfuego

Active Member
I was wondering your opinion on the above as well as whether or not it is a good idea to put the current light in the stand as a chaeto light instead of the nightlight (for when I get a new light).
 

pezenfuego

Active Member
Sexy shrimp, 2 nass, and a cerith snail. I'll get a fish after break and introduce coral around the same time. Exciting stuff!
 

pezenfuego

Active Member
All of my galloping elephants are in a row!
Calcium-520
pH- 8.0
Alkalinity-10dkH
phosphates,nitrates, nitrites, ammonia-0ppm
I hope that I can go tomorrow. Fingers crossed!
 

pezenfuego

Active Member
I didn't call ahead and when I got there, they had no sexy shrimp. Fresh out. So I'll just get a fish and a sexy shrimp at the same time after winter break. And I'll call ahead this time. I did end up with two nass snails and two cerith snails as well as a ricordea. I wasn't planning on getting coral this soon, but this is a hearty one and my water quality is good enough for it. I'll probably put up some pictures here soon. The snails are really going to town. I don't have anything exciting yet, but at least I have something now, so I'm happy.
 

pezenfuego

Active Member
Water changes go quickly! As a little update, the tank no longer has any diatom algae, which is great. Now it has a green algae, which is not great. But the green algae is very light and when I do a water change later this week, it should die off a bit. I'm not sure what kind of algae it is though. It almost feels like green coraline, but I am (obviously) not at that stage yet. I've had green coraline before and this reminds me of it, but it is certainly not that. Anyway, it isn't anything I can't handle. I'm probably going to take this tank home next Tuesday and set everything back up. If you have any advice for that, I'd love to hear it. It is a 2 hour drive.
 
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