Ph?
- Thread starter billy2k1
- Start date
jerthunter
Active Member
well that is not necessarily true, I believe the pH of DI water is about 6 (Not totally sure about this), 7 for normal water. And you want your pH to be at about 8.2 or so. Adding salt will raise the pH most of the way up to 8.2 but even if it is you should still add a pH buffer to keep the pH from changing drastically. The buffer is made so that it makes sure your water resists changes in pH. But as far as DI water having no pH, that is definately not true.
carshark
Active Member
not to steal the thread but the question does pertain to this....im in the process of hyposalinity and im worried about my ph taking a dive, ive gone from 1.023-1.020, i have another due 2 gallon change soon, i added some red sea buffer, but im curious because removing that water and replacing it with RO water will also slowly remove the buffer.. anyone have any opinions on what i should do?
jerthunter
Active Member
I would recommend to add more buffer to the replacement water, although if you are only removing a little water it should be ok even without more buffer.
mikeyjer
Active Member
Originally Posted by Jerthunter
well that is not necessarily true, I believe the pH of DI water is about 6 (Not totally sure about this), 7 for normal water. And you want your pH to be at about 8.2 or so. Adding salt will raise the pH most of the way up to 8.2 but even if it is you should still add a pH buffer to keep the pH from changing drastically. The buffer is made so that it makes sure your water resists changes in pH. But as far as DI water having no pH, that is definately not true.
DI water's PH is 7. 7 is neutral. 7+ is Acidic 7- is Base. Learned that in Chemistry back in school. Do add buffer to your water to bring up the PH to 8.4 Adding DI water alone WILL lower your PH. As for normal water, depends where your water is coming from, it can differ from one area or one company to another. IF I remember right, our faucet water is 7+ since we don't drink base water. We definatelly don't drink DI water cause it's not good for you. Add the buffer to the DI or RO water in the amount that it needs, let it dissolve then pour into your tank. Good Luck!
well that is not necessarily true, I believe the pH of DI water is about 6 (Not totally sure about this), 7 for normal water. And you want your pH to be at about 8.2 or so. Adding salt will raise the pH most of the way up to 8.2 but even if it is you should still add a pH buffer to keep the pH from changing drastically. The buffer is made so that it makes sure your water resists changes in pH. But as far as DI water having no pH, that is definately not true.
DI water's PH is 7. 7 is neutral. 7+ is Acidic 7- is Base. Learned that in Chemistry back in school. Do add buffer to your water to bring up the PH to 8.4 Adding DI water alone WILL lower your PH. As for normal water, depends where your water is coming from, it can differ from one area or one company to another. IF I remember right, our faucet water is 7+ since we don't drink base water. We definatelly don't drink DI water cause it's not good for you. Add the buffer to the DI or RO water in the amount that it needs, let it dissolve then pour into your tank. Good Luck!
mikeyjer
Active Member
Originally Posted by ReefNut
I disagree... adding a buffer is NOT necessary and will only cause a imbalance in the tank.
Just add the RO/DI water straight to the tank w/o adding anything.
It all depends on how much water change is being done. The buffer will be necessary if he does a large amount of water change. Like I've said before, DI water is at 7. Most of the buffer out there, from what I've read, stabilizes the PH at the level of 8.3 not higher if used at the proper amount. He needs to test his PH first to see where he is at then decide. Just my personal thoughts!!!
I disagree... adding a buffer is NOT necessary and will only cause a imbalance in the tank.
Just add the RO/DI water straight to the tank w/o adding anything.
It all depends on how much water change is being done. The buffer will be necessary if he does a large amount of water change. Like I've said before, DI water is at 7. Most of the buffer out there, from what I've read, stabilizes the PH at the level of 8.3 not higher if used at the proper amount. He needs to test his PH first to see where he is at then decide. Just my personal thoughts!!!
mikeyjer
Active Member
Originally Posted by ReefNut
DI water's PH is actually around 5.5-6... but if he does a water change salt will be added... the salt will increase the ph of the water. When topping off with DI water the ph of the tank is normally unaffected.
Yea I guess that makes sense, it becomes more acidic over time after they come out from the factory within about 2 hours. I wonder why they make us use distilled water to clean off solutions when it's acidic?? I would think that would make our readings go bad. BUT they do make their own distilled water at school though.
DI water's PH is actually around 5.5-6... but if he does a water change salt will be added... the salt will increase the ph of the water. When topping off with DI water the ph of the tank is normally unaffected.
Yea I guess that makes sense, it becomes more acidic over time after they come out from the factory within about 2 hours. I wonder why they make us use distilled water to clean off solutions when it's acidic?? I would think that would make our readings go bad. BUT they do make their own distilled water at school though.
1journeyman
Active Member
The less chemicals in the tank the better.
A tank should naturally have a pH around 8.4. If you have to add a buffer something else is going on that needs to be addressed.
I tried using a buffer when I was cycling uncured live rock. Hehe... that failed miserably.
A tank should naturally have a pH around 8.4. If you have to add a buffer something else is going on that needs to be addressed.
I tried using a buffer when I was cycling uncured live rock. Hehe... that failed miserably.
nater
Member
I would use caution when adding buffers to directly alter PH. Try researching this in other threads--maintaining your systems alkalinity and calcium levels is directly related to a stable PH. Adding buffers to affect these parameters is much less likely to cause problems down the road.
My tapwater tests 8.8, and the RO/DI water I use for the tank tests about 7.0.
My tapwater tests 8.8, and the RO/DI water I use for the tank tests about 7.0.
dogstar
Active Member
Originally Posted by carshark
not to steal the thread but the question does pertain to this....im in the process of hyposalinity and im worried about my ph taking a dive, ive gone from 1.023-1.020, i have another due 2 gallon change soon, i added some red sea buffer, but im curious because removing that water and replacing it with RO water will also slowly remove the buffer.. anyone have any opinions on what i should do?
Sure, typical QT tanks are small that allow levels to swing fast so constaint monitoring is nessecery. What goods a hospital if theres no doctor around. haha.
With hypo, the lower element levels in the water that stabalize every thing will allow the levels to swing so check/adjust pH and do changes late in the day with buffered ( bakeing soda best from what I have read. ) new water to keep the normal night time drops from going lower than they would if done early in the day when the pH would normaly rise anyway. IMO very important to be testing and adjusting alk. primarily and then moniter how that effects pH.
Im no expert and have never done hypo myself but this is info I remember from other research and reading. HIH
not to steal the thread but the question does pertain to this....im in the process of hyposalinity and im worried about my ph taking a dive, ive gone from 1.023-1.020, i have another due 2 gallon change soon, i added some red sea buffer, but im curious because removing that water and replacing it with RO water will also slowly remove the buffer.. anyone have any opinions on what i should do?
Sure, typical QT tanks are small that allow levels to swing fast so constaint monitoring is nessecery. What goods a hospital if theres no doctor around. haha.
With hypo, the lower element levels in the water that stabalize every thing will allow the levels to swing so check/adjust pH and do changes late in the day with buffered ( bakeing soda best from what I have read. ) new water to keep the normal night time drops from going lower than they would if done early in the day when the pH would normaly rise anyway. IMO very important to be testing and adjusting alk. primarily and then moniter how that effects pH.
Im no expert and have never done hypo myself but this is info I remember from other research and reading. HIH
mikeyjer
Active Member
Originally Posted by Nater
I would use caution when adding buffers to directly alter PH. Try researching this in other threads--maintaining your systems alkalinity and calcium levels is directly related to a stable PH. Adding buffers to affect these parameters is much less likely to cause problems down the road.
My tapwater tests 8.8, and the RO/DI water I use for the tank tests about 7.0.
At least someone agrees with me about DI water being at 7.0 Was beginning to think I'm wayyyyyy off after his comments. I've only added buffer to the RO/DI water to make it as the same as my tank before I pour them in. It works for me and I haven't had any problem. I change my water once a week with premixed water from my LFS. I took my water in to test salinity and it always been good so haven't had to add freshwater much. It's just something I've done before and my personal comments about the buffer.
I would use caution when adding buffers to directly alter PH. Try researching this in other threads--maintaining your systems alkalinity and calcium levels is directly related to a stable PH. Adding buffers to affect these parameters is much less likely to cause problems down the road.
My tapwater tests 8.8, and the RO/DI water I use for the tank tests about 7.0.
At least someone agrees with me about DI water being at 7.0 Was beginning to think I'm wayyyyyy off after his comments. I've only added buffer to the RO/DI water to make it as the same as my tank before I pour them in. It works for me and I haven't had any problem. I change my water once a week with premixed water from my LFS. I took my water in to test salinity and it always been good so haven't had to add freshwater much. It's just something I've done before and my personal comments about the buffer.
mikeyjer
Active Member
Forgot to add something to my post. The only reason I said to add buffer was for freshwater top offs without salt. I buy water premixed so I don't mix anything myself. If that's what he misunderstood. I've also said that it depends on how much water he was topping off. Just had someone else read all the post and mentioned that he might of misunderstood me. Now that should clear it up!!!
. Again, adding a buffer will just throw off the chemical balance in the tank... and there is no reason to do it!!
reefnut
Active Member
Originally Posted by Mikeyjer
Forgot to add something to my post. The only reason I said to add buffer was for freshwater top offs without salt.
Originally Posted by Mikeyjer
It all depends on how much water change is being done. The buffer will be necessary if he does a large amount of water change.
Just to clarify... water changes would indicate times that salt is mixed in.
Forgot to add something to my post. The only reason I said to add buffer was for freshwater top offs without salt.
Originally Posted by Mikeyjer
It all depends on how much water change is being done. The buffer will be necessary if he does a large amount of water change.
Just to clarify... water changes would indicate times that salt is mixed in.
reefnut
Active Member
Again, adding a buffer will just throw off the chemical balance in the tank... there is no reason to do it!!
Do you understand what happens chemically when you add a buffer to the make up water??
First off there is a balance that needs to be maintained between alkalinity and calcium in the tank's saltwater. We maintain this balance by using balanced solutions such as kalk mix, two part additives, etc. For the most part most people keep their alkalinity between 8-12dkh and the calcium between 400-450ppm.
So, what happens when a buffer is added to fresh water to increase the PH?? Buffer IS alkalinity, so now you have a bucket of alkalinity rich freshwater. When it is added to the aquarium the alkalinity of the saltwater goes up and the calcium goes DOWN. Even if a small amount is add you have effectively created a imbalance in the system... so you can spend the rest of the week trying to balance everything back out or you could just not add the buffer in the first place.
I hope all this makes sense... I tried to keep it as simple as possible...
Do you understand what happens chemically when you add a buffer to the make up water??
First off there is a balance that needs to be maintained between alkalinity and calcium in the tank's saltwater. We maintain this balance by using balanced solutions such as kalk mix, two part additives, etc. For the most part most people keep their alkalinity between 8-12dkh and the calcium between 400-450ppm.
So, what happens when a buffer is added to fresh water to increase the PH?? Buffer IS alkalinity, so now you have a bucket of alkalinity rich freshwater. When it is added to the aquarium the alkalinity of the saltwater goes up and the calcium goes DOWN. Even if a small amount is add you have effectively created a imbalance in the system... so you can spend the rest of the week trying to balance everything back out or you could just not add the buffer in the first place.
I hope all this makes sense... I tried to keep it as simple as possible...
carshark
Active Member
it does make sense, however because ick was introduced to my main display and another fish had broken out with it, i removed my inverts and am doing hypo on my main. i checked the levels this morning and ph is still around 7.7 and the alk is about 90ppm. calc is ok, im still stuck at 1.020, but since i last tested i have added another gal of RO....still moving along strong. i am going to leave the ph alone as it seems it wil lbalance itself out later....thanks for the help so far...
