Phosphates Problem Need Some Help!!!!!
- Thread starter tdog7879
- Start date
tdog7879
Member
Originally Posted by Stanlalee
http:///forum/post/2758265
putting a good phophate media in the HOB would work much better and quicker than the cheato just because you cant fit much in there and cheato has to grow in order to work. ferric oxide starts working immediately and doesn't take much at all.
I have been doing that for about a month and my phosphates go up and down. Bought some phosban yesterday...see what happens!
http:///forum/post/2758265
putting a good phophate media in the HOB would work much better and quicker than the cheato just because you cant fit much in there and cheato has to grow in order to work. ferric oxide starts working immediately and doesn't take much at all.
I have been doing that for about a month and my phosphates go up and down. Bought some phosban yesterday...see what happens!
keebler
Member
I just like to use and recommend cheato because well, you should only have to buy it once. If you need a quickfix (don't know why you would) then ferric oxide is great, but I would prefer to spend 10 bucks on cheato and just harvest and throw away some every week, then mess with replacing phosban constantly. Besides, even though it is harmless to livestock, I would take a natural solution over a chemical solution any day.
saltn00b
Active Member
phosban is MUCH more efficient if ran properly with a phosban reactor like the one from two little fishies. you can also add cured LR or switch out your LR if it is very old, as the calcerous material acts like a phosphate sponge, but they dont release it. somebody recently mentioned cooking LR in bioling water to release the PO4, but idk if that "holds water"
srfisher17
Active Member
Originally Posted by saltn00b
http:///forum/post/2758581
phosban is MUCH more efficient if ran properly with a phosban reactor like the one from two little fishies. you can also add cured LR or switch out your LR if it is very old, as the calcerous material acts like a phosphate sponge, but they dont release it. somebody recently mentioned cooking LR in bioling water to release the PO4, but idk if that "holds water"
A reactor does help; but a media bag in the flow works fine on low levels. Phosban and almost all phos removers are nothing but ferric hydroxide and work very well, but they deplete quickly, usually two weeks max. I've started using SeaChem PhosGuard and find it better, longer lasting, less messy, and cheaper. Takes care of silicates too. (So does ferric hydroxide.
http:///forum/post/2758581
phosban is MUCH more efficient if ran properly with a phosban reactor like the one from two little fishies. you can also add cured LR or switch out your LR if it is very old, as the calcerous material acts like a phosphate sponge, but they dont release it. somebody recently mentioned cooking LR in bioling water to release the PO4, but idk if that "holds water"
A reactor does help; but a media bag in the flow works fine on low levels. Phosban and almost all phos removers are nothing but ferric hydroxide and work very well, but they deplete quickly, usually two weeks max. I've started using SeaChem PhosGuard and find it better, longer lasting, less messy, and cheaper. Takes care of silicates too. (So does ferric hydroxide.
srfisher17
Active Member
Originally Posted by saltn00b
http:///forum/post/2758620
right, the reactor makes the most use of the surface area of all of the media, as opposed to just flowing over a media bag.
Yeah; it sometimes takes some tweaking to get water to flow thru, rather than just over, a media bag.
http:///forum/post/2758620
right, the reactor makes the most use of the surface area of all of the media, as opposed to just flowing over a media bag.
Yeah; it sometimes takes some tweaking to get water to flow thru, rather than just over, a media bag.
tdog7879
Member
Originally Posted by srfisher17
http:///forum/post/2758608
A reactor does help; but a media bag in the flow works fine on low levels. Phosban and almost all phos removers are nothing but ferric hydroxide and work very well, but they deplete quickly, usually two weeks max. I've started using SeaChem PhosGuard and find it better, longer lasting, less messy, and cheaper. Takes care of silicates too. (So does ferric hydroxide.
How much longer does phosguard last?
http:///forum/post/2758608
A reactor does help; but a media bag in the flow works fine on low levels. Phosban and almost all phos removers are nothing but ferric hydroxide and work very well, but they deplete quickly, usually two weeks max. I've started using SeaChem PhosGuard and find it better, longer lasting, less messy, and cheaper. Takes care of silicates too. (So does ferric hydroxide.
How much longer does phosguard last?
tdog7879
Member
Originally Posted by srfisher17
http:///forum/post/2758608
A reactor does help; but a media bag in the flow works fine on low levels. Phosban and almost all phos removers are nothing but ferric hydroxide and work very well, but they deplete quickly, usually two weeks max. I've started using SeaChem PhosGuard and find it better, longer lasting, less messy, and cheaper. Takes care of silicates too. (So does ferric hydroxide.
What do you mean media bag in the flow works fine on low levels. Low levels of phosphate?
http:///forum/post/2758608
A reactor does help; but a media bag in the flow works fine on low levels. Phosban and almost all phos removers are nothing but ferric hydroxide and work very well, but they deplete quickly, usually two weeks max. I've started using SeaChem PhosGuard and find it better, longer lasting, less messy, and cheaper. Takes care of silicates too. (So does ferric hydroxide.
What do you mean media bag in the flow works fine on low levels. Low levels of phosphate?
adesimone1
Member
With cyano it could also be your lighting if your bulbs are older maybe they need to be replaced and how long are you running your lights. If the lights are kept off a little longer this will help get rid of the cyano. You can also try vodka or sugar dosing it takes out the nitrates and phosphates in your tank.
tdog7879
Member
Originally Posted by adesimone1
http:///forum/post/2758661
With cyano it could also be your lighting if your bulbs are older maybe they need to be replaced and how long are you running your lights. If the lights are kept off a little longer this will help get rid of the cyano. You can also try vodka or sugar dosing it takes out the nitrates and phosphates in your tank.
Light are only 3-4 months old and they were running for 9 hours a day now im going to cut them back to 4 hours a day for 5 days and see what happens. I think i will pass on the vodka ans sugar, But thanks for your advise.
http:///forum/post/2758661
With cyano it could also be your lighting if your bulbs are older maybe they need to be replaced and how long are you running your lights. If the lights are kept off a little longer this will help get rid of the cyano. You can also try vodka or sugar dosing it takes out the nitrates and phosphates in your tank.
Light are only 3-4 months old and they were running for 9 hours a day now im going to cut them back to 4 hours a day for 5 days and see what happens. I think i will pass on the vodka ans sugar, But thanks for your advise.
srfisher17
Active Member
Originally Posted by tdog7879
http:///forum/post/2758652
What do you mean media bag in the flow works fine on low levels. Low levels of phosphate?
Yes.
http:///forum/post/2758652
What do you mean media bag in the flow works fine on low levels. Low levels of phosphate?
Yes.
srfisher17
Active Member
Originally Posted by tdog7879
http:///forum/post/2758649
How much longer does phosguard last?
I really don't know. You remove it when your phosphate levels are where you want them, then re-use as needed. I haven't gotten to the point where I've had to replace it yet.
http:///forum/post/2758649
How much longer does phosguard last?
I really don't know. You remove it when your phosphate levels are where you want them, then re-use as needed. I haven't gotten to the point where I've had to replace it yet.
tdog7879
Member
Originally Posted by Keebler
http:///forum/post/2758765
If you are using pc lighting, then it could possibly be the bulbs causing the cyano, as sad at it is. Of course, the phosphates are an issue and should be resolved as well. That is why it is usually cheaper to get t5 or mh in the long run.
Running 216 watt of t-5. Maybe i got some bad bulbs
http:///forum/post/2758765
If you are using pc lighting, then it could possibly be the bulbs causing the cyano, as sad at it is. Of course, the phosphates are an issue and should be resolved as well. That is why it is usually cheaper to get t5 or mh in the long run.
Running 216 watt of t-5. Maybe i got some bad bulbs
gmann1139
Active Member
Originally Posted by tdog7879
http:///forum/post/2757753
How did you build it?
Took an extra fish bagger, drilled a hole for the opening of an extra Rio PH I had lying around, along with 12 1/8" holes to let water and pods out. If I had to do it again, I would have drilled about 20 holes. Hung it on the edge of the tank, under the end of the light. Added chaeto, and ta-da! a $25 fuge.
http:///forum/post/2757753
How did you build it?
Took an extra fish bagger, drilled a hole for the opening of an extra Rio PH I had lying around, along with 12 1/8" holes to let water and pods out. If I had to do it again, I would have drilled about 20 holes. Hung it on the edge of the tank, under the end of the light. Added chaeto, and ta-da! a $25 fuge.
tdog7879
Member
Originally Posted by gmann1139
http:///forum/post/2758840
Took an extra fish bagger, drilled a hole for the opening of an extra Rio PH I had lying around, along with 12 1/8" holes to let water and pods out. If I had to do it again, I would have drilled about 20 holes. Hung it on the edge of the tank, under the end of the light. Added chaeto, and ta-da! a $25 fuge.
You got a pic of that. Also something that small would there be enough room for the chaeto to grow? And would that be enough for a 80 gal?
http:///forum/post/2758840
Took an extra fish bagger, drilled a hole for the opening of an extra Rio PH I had lying around, along with 12 1/8" holes to let water and pods out. If I had to do it again, I would have drilled about 20 holes. Hung it on the edge of the tank, under the end of the light. Added chaeto, and ta-da! a $25 fuge.
You got a pic of that. Also something that small would there be enough room for the chaeto to grow? And would that be enough for a 80 gal?
tdog7879
Member
Originally Posted by nycbob
http:///forum/post/2757743
yes. any level above .25 will slow or stop the growth of corals. i dont think its the dsb. what is ur livestock list?
LIVE STOCK: yellow tang blue jaw triigger yellow face goby bar goby green chromis 2 cinamin clowns hermit snails 2 shrimp brittle star zoas mushrooms frogspawn. Could this be the cause?
http:///forum/post/2757743
yes. any level above .25 will slow or stop the growth of corals. i dont think its the dsb. what is ur livestock list?
LIVE STOCK: yellow tang blue jaw triigger yellow face goby bar goby green chromis 2 cinamin clowns hermit snails 2 shrimp brittle star zoas mushrooms frogspawn. Could this be the cause?
gmann1139
Active Member
Originally Posted by tdog7879
http:///forum/post/2758850
You got a pic of that. Also something that small would there be enough room for the chaeto to grow? And would that be enough for a 80 gal?
Umm, don't think so. I'll take one this weekend and post it.
I have 2 handfuls of chaeto in there, and they don't take up more than 1/3 of the space. For you, I would make sure the PH is getting enough flow, and probably drill some holes in the bottom, as well as the sides.
http:///forum/post/2758850
You got a pic of that. Also something that small would there be enough room for the chaeto to grow? And would that be enough for a 80 gal?
Umm, don't think so. I'll take one this weekend and post it.
I have 2 handfuls of chaeto in there, and they don't take up more than 1/3 of the space. For you, I would make sure the PH is getting enough flow, and probably drill some holes in the bottom, as well as the sides.