pics of plumbing anyone?

[posiden]

Originally Posted by TurningTim
http:///forum/post/2957786
OK so (from your pic) you have a straight siphon, a durso and a back up over flow type drains? Then you are returning from the OF box? Yes?

Yep you got it.

His is all inside the tank with a coast to coast OF. Mine just looks a little different.
In order from left to right,
Durso style (open chanel)-Full siphon-Emergency drain-My return to the tank.
As you have read the full siphon does 90% of the work. It is throttled back via a ball valve just to the point that the durso has to kick in.(start to flow water) The emergency is just that, I hope in never gets wet.

Now the beauty of this is and the reason I went with it is all the safety's. Running in a normal state the open channel is only at 10% load. So should something get stuck in the siphon the open channel can take more load. The open channel has an air intake at the top and is brought down to a level where if the open channel needs to become a siphon it can. Then if all heck continues the the emergency will kick in and also has the ability to become a siphon. Now if anything should happen then I will hear it, because it runs dead silent if set properly.
Another shot of it so you don't have to go back and forth with the last post of it,

 

[posiden]

Originally Posted by Eric B 125
http:///forum/post/2957752
Posiden: so you suggest that i use larger plumbing on my drain than 1.5"? if the bulkheads are 1.5", that's all the water that will be allowed into the plumbing, so if i use 2" piping, then that will allow for air to be in the drains, yes? having air in the drains is what keeps them quiet, eh?
you will all have to forgive me for my lack of technical lingo. i can see how my explaination of things might be a bit confusing, and i understand my questions are elementary. this is my first sump and therefore first plumbing experience. i just want to make sure i'm planning this out correctly and it's important to me to know WHY i'm supposed to be doing certain things. i most certainly appreciate everyones continuing help and patience.

Yes, if it were me I would use 2" plumbing on 1.5" bulk heads.
Yes, the amount of flow will be dictated by the smallest opening.(your bulk head)
Yes that way there will be air in the pipes. It is a matter of surface area. By using larger plumbing you will get more surface area. The air inside will be in the middle of the pipe allowing it to run quietly. Also the more surface area you have the less likely you will have noise when you are forced to make a turn in the plumbing. Your sheet of water will be more thin and can deal with the curves more easily.
My plumbing will not have anything more than a 45 on it. The way I have it planned I should be able to run everything straight down and into the sump. That is why I cut an external OF. I also didn't want to loose display space. My return will need to use two 45's
I think you and I live some what close as soon as I get the ability to PM, I will.

 

[turningtim]

And all three runs are separate pipes down to the sump? Is this a flow through sump design?
Well this is why I'm so interested. My drain and return will be about 24' horizontal and 8' vertical. So yes I want backup. I have 2@1" drains but can drill another. But I have to combine the drain into a single 1.5" sch 20 (thin wall). I was gonna go 1.25 sch 20 out of the drains.

 

[eric b 125]

what is a SWCD? also, is there some kind of valve i can incorporate into my return plumbing that will allow water to flow up to the tank, but in the event of pump failure, will not allow the water to run back down, starting a siphon and flooding my floor?

 

[eric b 125]

Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/2958474
I think you and I live some what close as soon as I get the ability to PM, I will.
i'm assuming this was directed at me? i live in shadyside, pittsburgh.

 

[posiden]

Eric B 125,
Yes it was directed at you, but I was way off base. Sorry. We don't live remotly close.

 

[posiden]

Originally Posted by TurningTim
http:///forum/post/2958561
And all three runs are separate pipes down to the sump? Is this a flow through sump design?
Well this is why I'm so interested. My drain and return will be about 24' horizontal and 8' vertical. So yes I want backup. I have 2@1" drains but can drill another. But I have to combine the drain into a single 1.5" sch 20 (thin wall). I was gonna go 1.25 sch 20 out of the drains.
Yes all the pipes go down in separate runs.
I don't think I have ever heard of a flow thru design? If you mean, Will I have baffles, yes I will.
I am not too sure I follow you on your set up 100%. If you combine the drains then you are going to want to go bigger not smaller so it will stay quite. Also if you combine the drains you are defeating the safety side. If one gets clogged up, or the clog is were they come together then you don't have anything else to drain through. Same goes for the emergency, if you tie it into the open channel then it really isn't an emergency.
How much flow are you talking about?

 

[mx mr bean]

Originally Posted by Eric B 125
http:///forum/post/2958681
what is a SWCD? also, is there some kind of valve i can incorporate into my return plumbing that will allow water to flow up to the tank, but in the event of pump failure, will not allow the water to run back down, starting a siphon and flooding my floor?
Float check valves keep water going in one direction and small flap flips down when the power goes out which will stop your return line from draining. There are some cons to this one though. It reduces your flow a bit and once coraline starts growing in there, or algae, the valve will clog and not work anymore. The best idea is to have a tiny hole in the top of the plumping to create a break in the event of a power failure. my return line has one drilled into the elbow just before the end up in the overflow box.

 

[eric b 125]

how big of a hole? my tank isn't reef ready, so my return plumbing will be coming up behind my tank, so i'd rather not have water dripping out of it. i was under the impression that the return plumbing was completely filled with water. if this is the case, then won't water squirt out? are you saying i should drill a hole at the top of the 90 that is connected to the bulkhead? if this is correct, then the hole should be at "12 o'clock", facing the ceiling, yes?

 

[turningtim]

Here is the anti siphon hole. Do not use check valves! They will clog and will fail! 1/8" hole will work you just need to make sure it stays clear.

 

[eric b 125]

i'm drilling my returns in the back of the tank. i dont think something like that would work on a drilled return?

 

[turningtim]

OK you're in the same boat I am. You have to calculate the amount of water that will leave the DT and go to the sump. I think in my 120 its like an inch or so before siphon will break.
L" x W" x D" = divide by 231 and that will give you gallons. Then find how many inches you need in the sump to accommodate that water.