Putting Sump in Basement
- Thread starter andy51632
- Start date
reefforbrains
Active Member
everything is relative to size of top tank, thus your ideal turnoever for flow would be the needed output. Google a flow chart and they differ by manufacturer for flow at dead level then the rise decreases it with every inch of rise.
For heating, thats really not much of an issue since an over sized heater or two in the sump should keep everything toasty. what size top and what size sump are you planning? Its definatly doable, but can be a beast with the rise. Todays modern pumps can push some monster flow when needed. so post some more details
For heating, thats really not much of an issue since an over sized heater or two in the sump should keep everything toasty. what size top and what size sump are you planning? Its definatly doable, but can be a beast with the rise. Todays modern pumps can push some monster flow when needed. so post some more details
mandarin w
Member
I know we have a few members in our local club that did this. I myself don't know how. I just know you can do it.
al mc
Active Member
Andy, I have a set up at work and at home just as you described. My basement at work is also cold and I do not have a cover on the sump/refugium. I have (5) 300 watt heaters in the sump. Keeps the temp
a constant 78.
Set up at work is a 175 bow DT. It is supported by a 3'x5' sump/refugium in the basement. I use a MAG 36 with a couple ball values and 'T's' that allows me to control how much water flows back to the DT and how much gets recirculated back into the refugium part of the sump. The system is 'Hard wired'....all PVC. One inch from pump to DT, 2" return from DT. I think a system like this is great because you can do all your water changes in the basement and not have to worry about spills on a carpeted/hardwood first floor. I have an RO/DI unit adjacent to the basement sump so I can keep all the 'back room' stuff out of sight.
Oh...The run from the tank to sump is about 15 feet. (3) 90 degree T's and
a total vertical rise of 6 feet.
a constant 78.
Set up at work is a 175 bow DT. It is supported by a 3'x5' sump/refugium in the basement. I use a MAG 36 with a couple ball values and 'T's' that allows me to control how much water flows back to the DT and how much gets recirculated back into the refugium part of the sump. The system is 'Hard wired'....all PVC. One inch from pump to DT, 2" return from DT. I think a system like this is great because you can do all your water changes in the basement and not have to worry about spills on a carpeted/hardwood first floor. I have an RO/DI unit adjacent to the basement sump so I can keep all the 'back room' stuff out of sight.
Oh...The run from the tank to sump is about 15 feet. (3) 90 degree T's and
a total vertical rise of 6 feet.
bang guy
Moderator
My sump is in the basement, it's definately worth the extra hassle!
I have some 1" insulating foam sheets that I've cut to fit together around the sump. This works great in the winter to keep the heat in without wasting a lot of electricity (5 300 watt heaters, yikes!). In the summer I remove the insulation and it keeps the tank cool.
You need a pressure rated pump so ignore all the energy efficient pumps that only work well with little head. I use Iwaki RLTs and they are reliable and very long lasting (one is 15 years old).
I have some 1" insulating foam sheets that I've cut to fit together around the sump. This works great in the winter to keep the heat in without wasting a lot of electricity (5 300 watt heaters, yikes!). In the summer I remove the insulation and it keeps the tank cool.
You need a pressure rated pump so ignore all the energy efficient pumps that only work well with little head. I use Iwaki RLTs and they are reliable and very long lasting (one is 15 years old).