QT Dragonet fish???????
- Thread starter datsun79
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saxman
Guest
HUH? You should QT ALL fish, and in this case, especially a dragonette if you plan on getting it onto prepared foods. It's way too tuff to wean fish in a DT.
luvmyreef
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3496212
HUH? You should QT ALL fish, and in this case, especially a dragonette if you plan on getting it onto prepared foods. It's way too tuff to wean fish in a DT.
I have heard this as well. I think it has to do with the slime coat they are supposed to have that prevents them from getting ick? I dunno. I would QT as well.
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3496212
HUH? You should QT ALL fish, and in this case, especially a dragonette if you plan on getting it onto prepared foods. It's way too tuff to wean fish in a DT.
I have heard this as well. I think it has to do with the slime coat they are supposed to have that prevents them from getting ick? I dunno. I would QT as well.
xcali1985
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by luvmyreef http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3496217
I have heard this as well. I think it has to do with the slime coat they are supposed to have that prevents them from getting ick? I dunno. I would QT as well.
This is correct, they are hardier due to this slime coat to ick. However, that does not mean they don't have ick on them just not visible. Secondly, I agree that if you want to attempt to get on frozen foods, you need to do it in a non competitive environment.
Originally Posted by luvmyreef http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3496217
I have heard this as well. I think it has to do with the slime coat they are supposed to have that prevents them from getting ick? I dunno. I would QT as well.
This is correct, they are hardier due to this slime coat to ick. However, that does not mean they don't have ick on them just not visible. Secondly, I agree that if you want to attempt to get on frozen foods, you need to do it in a non competitive environment.
xcali1985
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SIDHYESH http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3496607
i have red mandrin , i did not QT him , as mandrin doesn't get ich easily , is doing good , make shure u have lots of pods ..............
The mandarin doesn't have to have show signs of ICH. He can still carry the parasite. Just feed your QT with pods for him.
Originally Posted by SIDHYESH http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3496607
i have red mandrin , i did not QT him , as mandrin doesn't get ich easily , is doing good , make shure u have lots of pods ..............
The mandarin doesn't have to have show signs of ICH. He can still carry the parasite. Just feed your QT with pods for him.
reefr
Member
no qt for mandys. QT tanks have NO pod life, so you would be wasting money... Also it is EXTREMELY unlikely mandarins will acquire ich....some people confuse ick with sand picked up by their slime coat that is VERY thick..
IF you want to wean the mandarin, set up a breeder net or one of those in-tank aquarium boxes, and put foods in there.
IF you want to wean the mandarin, set up a breeder net or one of those in-tank aquarium boxes, and put foods in there.
xcali1985
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by REEFR http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3496892
no qt for mandys. QT tanks have NO pod life, so you would be wasting money... Also it is EXTREMELY unlikely mandarins will acquire ich....some people confuse ick with sand picked up by their slime coat that is VERY thick..
IF you want to wean the mandarin, set up a breeder net or one of those in-tank aquarium boxes, and put foods in there.
ALL FISH AND CORALS SHOULD BE QT. Its not the question if the mandy has ich, it's a question of if it has the parasite on it and has not started to show symptoms. If you want a mandy prepare your QT for it in advance by breeding pods for a few months before hand. Simple!
Originally Posted by REEFR http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3496892
no qt for mandys. QT tanks have NO pod life, so you would be wasting money... Also it is EXTREMELY unlikely mandarins will acquire ich....some people confuse ick with sand picked up by their slime coat that is VERY thick..
IF you want to wean the mandarin, set up a breeder net or one of those in-tank aquarium boxes, and put foods in there.
ALL FISH AND CORALS SHOULD BE QT. Its not the question if the mandy has ich, it's a question of if it has the parasite on it and has not started to show symptoms. If you want a mandy prepare your QT for it in advance by breeding pods for a few months before hand. Simple!
novahobbies
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcali1985 http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3496925
ALL FISH AND CORALS SHOULD BE QT. Its not the question if the mandy has ich, it's a question of if it has the parasite on it and has not started to show symptoms. If you want a mandy prepare your QT for it in advance by breeding pods for a few months before hand. Simple!
Unfortunately, not that simple. No standard 10 or even 20g QT tank, regardless of how long it's been running, will have enough pods in it to sustain a mandarin for a full month. The point of QT for a mandarin is less about the parasite, and more about weaning the fish to pellets and/or frozen. I do agree that keeping your QT up and running for a while prior to the addition of the fish is a help for mandarins, but you shouldn't expect there to be enough pods to last for more than a couple weeks. These guys can eat hundreds of pods daily if that's their exclusive diet.
QT'ing a mandarin even for a full month may or may not be truly effective with ich. As has been stated...they have a heavy slime coat that (1) resists the parasite and (2) makes it difficult to see if there IS a parasite burrowing into the skin. Further, the argument that the fish might have a C. irritans cyst on it is far-fetched, since fish slough off their slime coat constantly and replace it with new (just like we do with our skin, folks!). Also, Bob Fenner has been noted as saying that QT for mandarinfish is unnecessary if you're concerned about ich....a freshwater dip (some people may use methylene blue) is a good preventative in this case.
For what it's worth, if it were MY fish I would probably do a FW dip, then introduce him into a QT system for a few weeks to get some quality 'lone time and begin introducing prepared foods to his diet. I don't think I would QT for more than a few weeks, personally, and I would place his diet and caloric intake higher on my list of concerns than I would any possibility of disease. But that's just me.
Originally Posted by Xcali1985 http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3496925
ALL FISH AND CORALS SHOULD BE QT. Its not the question if the mandy has ich, it's a question of if it has the parasite on it and has not started to show symptoms. If you want a mandy prepare your QT for it in advance by breeding pods for a few months before hand. Simple!
Unfortunately, not that simple. No standard 10 or even 20g QT tank, regardless of how long it's been running, will have enough pods in it to sustain a mandarin for a full month. The point of QT for a mandarin is less about the parasite, and more about weaning the fish to pellets and/or frozen. I do agree that keeping your QT up and running for a while prior to the addition of the fish is a help for mandarins, but you shouldn't expect there to be enough pods to last for more than a couple weeks. These guys can eat hundreds of pods daily if that's their exclusive diet.
QT'ing a mandarin even for a full month may or may not be truly effective with ich. As has been stated...they have a heavy slime coat that (1) resists the parasite and (2) makes it difficult to see if there IS a parasite burrowing into the skin. Further, the argument that the fish might have a C. irritans cyst on it is far-fetched, since fish slough off their slime coat constantly and replace it with new (just like we do with our skin, folks!). Also, Bob Fenner has been noted as saying that QT for mandarinfish is unnecessary if you're concerned about ich....a freshwater dip (some people may use methylene blue) is a good preventative in this case.
For what it's worth, if it were MY fish I would probably do a FW dip, then introduce him into a QT system for a few weeks to get some quality 'lone time and begin introducing prepared foods to his diet. I don't think I would QT for more than a few weeks, personally, and I would place his diet and caloric intake higher on my list of concerns than I would any possibility of disease. But that's just me.
S
saxman
Guest
Tell this specimen that "resistant" fish can't get ******...
Lionfish have the ability to shed their entire outer skin layer (called a "cuticle"), and are quite resistant to most ectoparasitic infestations. Even then, they can, and do contract ******, even with repeated shedding to try and keep it in check.
Everyone obviously has an opinion when it comes to mandies, but I'd QT it and be sure I have whatever food is necessary to get it eating. BTW, their slime coat is poisonous...just a factoid to toss out there.
Lionfish have the ability to shed their entire outer skin layer (called a "cuticle"), and are quite resistant to most ectoparasitic infestations. Even then, they can, and do contract ******, even with repeated shedding to try and keep it in check.
Everyone obviously has an opinion when it comes to mandies, but I'd QT it and be sure I have whatever food is necessary to get it eating. BTW, their slime coat is poisonous...just a factoid to toss out there.
xcali1985
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by novahobbies http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3496942
Unfortunately, not that simple. No standard 10 or even 20g QT tank, regardless of how long it's been running, will have enough pods in it to sustain a mandarin for a full month. The point of QT for a mandarin is less about the parasite, and more about weaning the fish to pellets and/or frozen. I do agree that keeping your QT up and running for a while prior to the addition of the fish is a help for mandarins, but you shouldn't expect there to be enough pods to last for more than a couple weeks. These guys can eat hundreds of pods daily if that's their exclusive diet.
QT'ing a mandarin even for a full month may or may not be truly effective with ich. As has been stated...they have a heavy slime coat that (1) resists the parasite and (2) makes it difficult to see if there IS a parasite burrowing into the skin. Further, the argument that the fish might have a C. irritans cyst on it is far-fetched, since fish slough off their slime coat constantly and replace it with new (just like we do with our skin, folks!). Also, Bob Fenner has been noted as saying that QT for mandarinfish is unnecessary if you're concerned about ich....a freshwater dip (some people may use methylene blue) is a good preventative in this case.
For what it's worth, if it were MY fish I would probably do a FW dip, then introduce him into a QT system for a few weeks to get some quality 'lone time and begin introducing prepared foods to his diet. I don't think I would QT for more than a few weeks, personally, and I would place his diet and caloric intake higher on my list of concerns than I would any possibility of disease. But that's just me.
So basically your saying that there is no way to introduce more pods for the length of the QT. Adding pods weekly would assist in this. Your assessment is not taking into fact that although the mandarin does not have showing signs of ICH it can still have the parasite.
For that matter you can get ICH transported via a coral frag or even rock and sand. Even coral dips won't kill ICH. The point im trying to make is that you are playing russian roulette with your other tank inhabitants if you introduce anything into your tank without QT. I will state this 1000 times the fish you put into your tank does not have to be "showing signs" of ICH for it to carry the disease.
Originally Posted by novahobbies http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3496942
Unfortunately, not that simple. No standard 10 or even 20g QT tank, regardless of how long it's been running, will have enough pods in it to sustain a mandarin for a full month. The point of QT for a mandarin is less about the parasite, and more about weaning the fish to pellets and/or frozen. I do agree that keeping your QT up and running for a while prior to the addition of the fish is a help for mandarins, but you shouldn't expect there to be enough pods to last for more than a couple weeks. These guys can eat hundreds of pods daily if that's their exclusive diet.
QT'ing a mandarin even for a full month may or may not be truly effective with ich. As has been stated...they have a heavy slime coat that (1) resists the parasite and (2) makes it difficult to see if there IS a parasite burrowing into the skin. Further, the argument that the fish might have a C. irritans cyst on it is far-fetched, since fish slough off their slime coat constantly and replace it with new (just like we do with our skin, folks!). Also, Bob Fenner has been noted as saying that QT for mandarinfish is unnecessary if you're concerned about ich....a freshwater dip (some people may use methylene blue) is a good preventative in this case.
For what it's worth, if it were MY fish I would probably do a FW dip, then introduce him into a QT system for a few weeks to get some quality 'lone time and begin introducing prepared foods to his diet. I don't think I would QT for more than a few weeks, personally, and I would place his diet and caloric intake higher on my list of concerns than I would any possibility of disease. But that's just me.
So basically your saying that there is no way to introduce more pods for the length of the QT. Adding pods weekly would assist in this. Your assessment is not taking into fact that although the mandarin does not have showing signs of ICH it can still have the parasite.
For that matter you can get ICH transported via a coral frag or even rock and sand. Even coral dips won't kill ICH. The point im trying to make is that you are playing russian roulette with your other tank inhabitants if you introduce anything into your tank without QT. I will state this 1000 times the fish you put into your tank does not have to be "showing signs" of ICH for it to carry the disease.
geridoc
Well-Known Member
This would be an interesting discussion if the only disease that a new fish could bring into a tank were ich, but there are plenty of other parasites and infections that could be on a new fish friend that could be communicated to other fish in the tank. Go with quarantine, add pods frequently and work on weaning onto prepared foods (I have found frozen prawn roe to be pretty acceptable).
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New Member
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reefr
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeriDoc http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3497201
This would be an interesting discussion if the only disease that a new fish could bring into a tank were ich, but there are plenty of other parasites and infections that could be on a new fish friend that could be communicated to other fish in the tank. Go with quarantine, add pods frequently and work on weaning onto prepared foods (I have found frozen prawn roe to be pretty acceptable).
do you mean Nutramar Ova?
Originally Posted by GeriDoc http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3497201
This would be an interesting discussion if the only disease that a new fish could bring into a tank were ich, but there are plenty of other parasites and infections that could be on a new fish friend that could be communicated to other fish in the tank. Go with quarantine, add pods frequently and work on weaning onto prepared foods (I have found frozen prawn roe to be pretty acceptable).
do you mean Nutramar Ova?
reefr
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeriDoc http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3497476
Nutramar frozen prawn roe (ova).
yep.
I feed that to my tank... not sure if the mandy eats it or not, since he is sorta skittish still.
Originally Posted by GeriDoc http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3497476
Nutramar frozen prawn roe (ova).
yep.
I feed that to my tank... not sure if the mandy eats it or not, since he is sorta skittish still.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3497026
BTW, their slime coat is poisonous...just a factoid to toss out there.
?
...Mandarins have a poison body coat? How can they be safe in a seahorse tank?
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/393200/qt-dragonet-fish#post_3497026
BTW, their slime coat is poisonous...just a factoid to toss out there.
?