Quick pc lighting question.

rwhite

Member
Its time to replace bulbs and was wondering about the different types of actinics we've seen. Ultra Actinic and Dual Spectrum, 420 and 620 I think or something like that. As well as some others. Anyone know if these are good or any suggestions on other types?
One other thing, should we replace all 4 at the same time or stagger them--actinics first, 10k later; vice versa. Any comments appreciated.
 

diddley

Member
i'm assuming they have a 4 X 65 watt set-up, mr. bang. would you suggest changing one actinic and one daylight at the same time and staggering the other two, or....both daylights and both actinics separately? thanks for your insight. how long between the two. you da man.
 

rwhite

Member
Yes, its 4 x 65. I think I understand what Bang is saying, kind of cycling in a fresh bulb while the other 3 are still producing the proper spectrum and not causing too much of a change at once. A great idea, but my problem is that all the current bulbs are a year old already. Would it be okay to wait another year before changing the last bulb? We are already battling cyano and my thinking was that the lights may be a contributing factor. More thoughts on this please, esp. from Bang.
And, any thoughts on the actinics? I know I've read that 03 True Actinics are the "best", but was wondering about the others, esp. the dual spectrum actinic. Would the packaging say true 03 or can I go by the wavelengths. Any input please.
Going to try a search also, I would like to purchase the bulbs tomorrow or Sat. so I can perform the change in the morning before the lights come on. Thanks for the replies.
 

rwhite

Member
Just read Kips True Actinic PC thread. Great info there, now the question is will any of my LFS' carry the real deal or will I need to order them on-line.
 

neoreef

Member
rwhite,
I have a 55g too, with PC lights. I have a JBJ set up. All my LFS charge a bundle for bulbs, so I go the online route. SWF does not carry the kind I need.
HTH,
Kathy
kml unspam pdr@sbcglobal.net
 

bang guy

Moderator
If all of your bulbs are expired then you'll need to be creative. IMO it's destructive to replace more than one at a time. The break in period is about 3 weeks so don't put the second in before that.
Flourescent bulbs operate at higher then normal PAR for a few weeks before settling down into their normal output. If you replace multiple bulbs your animals get a 3 week dose of up to 15% more PAR than normal. This stresses them for a couple weeks until they acclimate. Then the bulbs dim down to their normal output and the animals are again stressed adjusting to the dimmer light. That's a month of stress. If you replace 1 bulb out of 4 then the increase in lighting is less significant.
When I had VHO I even shuffled the bulbs so that the newest was always in front and got older as they went back.
 

rwhite

Member
Sorry so late getting back. So, at the point Im at now, I should replace 1 then wait at least a month before adding another. Example: Replace 1 daylight this weekend, then sometime mid to late Sept. or even early Oct. replace another--say a true actinic on the opposite side. Then, possibly waiting a full 2 mos., replace the other daylight and finally the other actinic after 3 mos. Then begin implementing the 3 month plan for the next round of replacements. Kind of gives it a criss-cross so that one side of the tank wouldnt receive one stress after another. May be a bit more difficult to keep track of, but it sounds like the less stress the better, esp. if I do switch to True 03 Actinics. From what I've read, just changing those may change the way the corals react to the lighting.
Would I be wrong in guessing that while the new bulb burns higher PAR, the loss of PAR on the older bulbs will be more balanced out, thus causing a little less stress? Am I making any sense? Just want to do whats best for the reef.
Thanks Kathy. We have a JBJ system also. You may be getting mail soon, make sure you check your mailbox. I checked out a couple sites, but I want to be sure we get the true 03s and some didnt seem too specific. I appreciate everyones help.
Bang, when you say expired, you mean loss of spectrum, right? Cause I'm just going by the "replace after a year" rule of thumb. The corals seem happy enough, so I'm assuming they are still getting enough at this point, but I also dont want to wait until they're all completely depleted. Thanks, again and tell me what ya'll think of the proposed plan for the big bulb swap.
 

bang guy

Moderator

Originally posted by rwhite
Would I be wrong in guessing that while the new bulb burns higher PAR, the loss of PAR on the older bulbs will be more balanced out, thus causing a little less stress?

Exactly.
In the subject of "expired". It's worth while to get a cheap Lux meter. They are useless for comparing different bulbs or how much light your animals are receiving, but, they are very useful for determining if a bulb has exceeded it's useful lifespan. About a month after installing a new bulb put the lux meter right against the bulb and record the reading. When the bulb loses an additional 15 - 20% it's time to change.
You'll find that actinics don't last as long as daylights.
fyi - flourescent phosphors do not change spectrum. They degrade & burn out. So, basically the bulbs just get dimmer. This is different than HID bulbs where the spectrum slowly climbs to the longer wavelengths. Bulbs with multiple phosphors may change color if the phosphors degrade at different rates. This is usually negligible unless actinic phosphors are inclused like URI's ActinicWhite.
 

rwhite

Member
Thanks Bang. Hopefully this will be the question. After reading Kips thread on true actinics, I'm assuming that what came with the system are not true actinic. Would it be correct to assume that since they are probably just tinted, the phosphurs would be depleted more, due to the dawn/dusk cycle we have in place (being on longer than the daylights) and be treated as a reg bulb? (last as long as daylights). Whereas a true 03 would not last as long as the "tinted" bulb, because it has different phosphurs. Or, would my "tinted" bulbs possibly contain diff. phosphurs because it may be 7600k or whatever?
Guess thats more than 1 question. Sorry, thats what you get for answering my questions in the first place :D
And, do you think my plan for swapping the bulbs would be okay--the criss-cross, with increasing time between the swap--> month and a 1/2 to 2 mos. to 3 mos. Starting with a daylight bulb?
 

bang guy

Moderator
Criss cross is fine. I don't think it matters that much.
I don't know about your tinted bulb. I would guess that normally 7100K phosphors last a long time Even 2 years. But the tint would probably make the bulb a lot hotter since it's blocking most of the light and that would degrade the phosphors pretty fast.
Either way I think the tinted bulbs are worse than useless. I would suggest you replace them first. If your corals respond negatively remember that they're probably getting 5 - 10 times more light from the actinic vs the tinted bulb. Actually I'd love to see a PAR test I'd guess even more than 10X more light.
 

rwhite

Member
Could a PAR test be done using the lux meter you suggested earlier? If so, I'd be happy to share the results; you've always been very helpful and any info I could share would at the very least make me feel like I've helped you in some way.
And, as you said, the tinted bulb makes them useless other than providing more coloration. Reef and learn, I guess. :yes:
 

bang guy

Moderator
Nope. Lux meters mostly just measure the light in the middle of the visible spectrum. PAR meters measure the entire useful spectrum.
 

rwhite

Member
Oh well, maybe another time. Went to the JBJ site and it basically confirmed that we're running a 7100k bulb and that "True Actinic 03s" are now available. Thanks again for all your help and I'll post later about the changing to 03s in the future.
One last favor, did you happen to take a look at the thread "ID and some advice.." by chance? I know you're d!&% good at IDs, so I was wondering if you could help.
 
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