Raising calcium levels

[trippclark]

I filter the tap water with Aquarium Pharm's Tap Water Purifier to create purified deionized water. I am told that this is almost as good as RO water. Anyway, I then cycle this water with a heater, powerhead, and air pump for 12 to 24 hours. Then, I add the salt to the 80 degree water by pouring a cup or so at a time until the SG is at 1.025. Typically I add salt over a period of anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour or so. I then conitue to prep this water for 24 - 48 hours with the same air pump, powerhead and heater before adding to the tank.
Not sure if LFS will test, but they probably will. I can check anyway.

 

[bang guy]

I see no problem with your salt mixing proceedure.
The TapWaterPurifier is actually better than RO water if you replace the rosins when needed.

 

[trippclark]

Thanks Bang Guy! I really appreciate your advise and the time that you devote to helping the hobby! My LFS told me the same thing about the purifier, but I was not sure but whether they were not stretching it a bit to make a sale. Regardless, it is pretty simple to use and I have been pleased overall.
So, once I get the Ca verified and things are balanced, what is the proper course for the two additives that I had been using -- the Seachem Marine Buffer and the C-Balance? Should I trash the buffer and continue to use the C-Balance? If so, at about what rate?

 

[tyr-sog]

Hmmmm, this got me testing.
Im pulling
Alk 6.5 (seachem)
Cal 380 (Hagen)
PH 8.2 (seachem)
Whats dKH? I don't have a test for that.

 

[trippclark]

I hope you get a good answer, because I am fuzzy on this too. KH is the closest thing to Alkalinity that I can find, and I think that they are directly related. My LFS did not have any saltwater Alk test kit, and there was a display that listed the KH as Alkalinity, so maybe someone can give us a clear understanding of how these relate or compare.

 

[bang guy]

kH is the amount of Carbonate in the water. I honestly don't know of any reasonably priced test that can actually give you a real number for kH.
The best we can do on our budgets is dkH or Alkalinity (same thing). This is a measure of the buffering capacity of the water and we try to infer the amount of Carbonate in the water from that.
An ALK of 6.5 leaves me puzzled because I don't know what scale was used, dkH or Alkalinity Meq/L. kH is usually measured in ppm.
so... to answer the question at a hobbiest level:
ALK (Meq/L) = kH (ppm) / 50
dkH (degrees of carbonate hardness) = ALK / 2.8

 

[tyr-sog]

my seachem kit says:
{3. Each drop is equal to 0.5 meq/L. The number of drops to get yellow divided by 2 is the total alkalinity.}
It took me 13 drops to turn it yellow to lime green. Divided by is 6.5 meq/L or am I missing something?
It goes on to say that 2-3 meq/L is natural sea water. Aquarium water should be 4-6 meq/L.
Thanks

 

[trippclark]

Before this gets lost too far back in the thread, I'll post it again . . .
So, once I get the Ca verified and things are balanced, what is the proper course for the two additives that I had been using -- the Seachem Marine Buffer and the C-Balance? Should I trash the buffer and continue to use the C-Balance? If so, at about what rate?
Is the C-balance a good product to use, or will I need to learn to drip kalk . . . or both!

 

[bang guy]

Originally posted by trippclark
Before this gets lost too far back in the thread, I'll post it again . . .
You're right....
Tyr-Sog - Post a new thread so this one doesn't get hijacked.
trippclark -
Keep the buffer but only use it if your alkalinity is low and your calcium is normal or high.
I'm not familiar with C-Balance. Is it a 2-part additive? That are the ingredients?

 

[trippclark]

C-Balance is a two-part additive.
Not sure of the ingredients, but here is the description:
Supplies your reef with calcium, strontium, magnesium, and trace elements, while buffering at the same time. It is a two part, balanced ionic, marine supplement that produces an ionic residual with the composition of natural seawater. 16 oz. treats 1,900 gallons and 1 gallon concentrate treats 15,222 gallons.
The link to the manufacturers page with a picture and description is
***EDIT***

 

[bang guy]

C-Balance sounds perfect.
Pick a level you want to maintain and dose on a regimented schedule. Every day every other day, whatever but be very consistant. Test you water every week for a while so you can determine how much Calcium & Carbonate your tank is consuming. If it starts to fall then increase the dosage. If it climbs then lower the dosage. It takes months to get it perfect nad you need to document it because memory just doesn't cut it.
I shoot for Ca of 420ppm and ALK of 3.0 Meq/L. I use limewater only because it's cheaper.
I would suggest you not add any other additives. Limewater will be fine if you want to experiment with it down the road. It's fine to use Limewater & C-Balance at the same time but still keep tabs on water levels.

 

[trippclark]

Okay, since I was getting disagreement between my two Ca test kits, as suggested I took a water sample to my LFS for them to check. Strangely (but preferred, I guess), the very old sera kit, which gave me a reading of 420 was closer to correct than my month old SeaTest kit which read at 300 or so.
So, the LFS found that my Ca was at 380 and KH was at 11. My lack of understanding of water chemistry and options continues to show, but I am not sure what to do next. If I am understanding things correctly, my course of action needs to be to continue to do a stepped up routine of water changes until my KH and Ca are in line on the balancing table that Kipass4130 posted earlier in this thread so that, ideally, Ca is at 420 and dKH is at 8.4, and only then should I start again using my C-Balance 2-part solution. If I am understanding this correctly, to start using C-balance again now would likely maintain or raise my Ca, but would also maintain or raise dKH, which I still need to lower (based on my present Ca level), perpetuating my "out of balance" system. On the other hand, *IF* my current Ca were 380 and dKH were at 2.8 or so, THEN it would be reasonable to use the C-balance to slowly raise Ca *AND* dKH to their target levels. BUT, since I am still out of balance, a balanced product is not the way to go for now.
Am I getting it, or have I missed the boat somewhere?? Is there a better course of action for the short term to balance my system other than water changes?

 

[trippclark]

Okay -- I did not know that you could use them like that. So one of the products is for Ca and one is for KH, huh? They say A and B on the bottles, but I assume that the fine print may tell me which is which. Unfortunately, I am not there now to check, but will in an hour or so. I thought that you had to add equal parts of A and B. Since my Ca is at 380 and my KH is at 11, I can then add just the Ca part (A or B, to be determined) is at 440 and that would be balanced with my KH of 11, right? Or have I oversimplified something.

 

[bang guy]

You got it perfect. My guess is that part B would be the Ca. Check out the instructions though.