Reef Crystals vs. Instant ocean
- Thread starter 007
- Start date
squidd
Active Member
[QUOTE
Manufactured salt mixes need to be added slowly to cool water that is being stirred vigorously.
Like he said...Just pour salt in slowly while stirring constantly...
This keeps any localized concentrations from building up and throwing Alk/Cal/Mag Balances out of wack, causing calcium carbonate to precipitate out.
So Bang...Whats the deal with cool water vs. warm, other than cool water is "denser"/"more stable at a gaseous level" and will accept a higher concentration in dilution...
I've heard it for Kalk mixing...this is the first I've heard it for salt?
I can see the logic along the same lines as Kalk for mixing and holding at higher concentrations but you generally drip kalk in cold...Salt Water needs to be heated to match tank temp, so don't you lose any advantage at that point...
Or is this just for those first couple seconds of mixing ...to "slow down" any adverse reactions that may occur until mixture is stabilized?
Manufactured salt mixes need to be added slowly to cool water that is being stirred vigorously.
Like he said...Just pour salt in slowly while stirring constantly...
This keeps any localized concentrations from building up and throwing Alk/Cal/Mag Balances out of wack, causing calcium carbonate to precipitate out.
So Bang...Whats the deal with cool water vs. warm, other than cool water is "denser"/"more stable at a gaseous level" and will accept a higher concentration in dilution...
I've heard it for Kalk mixing...this is the first I've heard it for salt?
I can see the logic along the same lines as Kalk for mixing and holding at higher concentrations but you generally drip kalk in cold...Salt Water needs to be heated to match tank temp, so don't you lose any advantage at that point...
Or is this just for those first couple seconds of mixing ...to "slow down" any adverse reactions that may occur until mixture is stabilized?
bang guy
Moderator
Originally posted by Squidd
[QUOTEOr is this just for those first couple seconds of mixing ...to "slow down" any adverse reactions that may occur until mixture is stabilized?
ding ding ding.
Cold water will hold more Carbonate so there's slightly less chance for it to precipitate while you are mixing. Once it's all mixed you can bring it up to temp without worry.
007
Active Member
Ok . . so here are my results on --:
After an aeration period of 24 hrs, temp at 80, and salinity of 35ppm:
pH - 8.2
Ca - 350
Alk - 4.8 meq/L
Tested with new salifert kits and an ATC refractometer.
So whats the deal here? My numbers seem much farther off than anything else I have seen, and if this batch of -- is testing accurately then I would rather stick with the IO.
I am going to give it another 24 hrs and see what tomorrows tests say, then again after 72 hrs and get an average.
After an aeration period of 24 hrs, temp at 80, and salinity of 35ppm:
pH - 8.2
Ca - 350
Alk - 4.8 meq/L
Tested with new salifert kits and an ATC refractometer.
So whats the deal here? My numbers seem much farther off than anything else I have seen, and if this batch of -- is testing accurately then I would rather stick with the IO.
I am going to give it another 24 hrs and see what tomorrows tests say, then again after 72 hrs and get an average.
007
Active Member
Originally posted by jaffonso
I havent checked the calcium but checked the phosphate content on newly mixed IO with RO water and it had a reading. The manufacterer said it should be zero...anyone has any comments on this?
Mario
It could be the RO water. Ihave never tested for phosphates as I just assume that since I dont have a problem that they arent an issue. But you are correct . . . . IO claims to be phosphate free.
007
Active Member
Ok . . . so after 72 hours of aeration, my numbers are the exact same as they were two days ago.
Temp at 80, and salinity of 35ppm:
pH - 8.2
Ca - 350
Alk - 4.8 meq/L
So I guess that this is where this batch is going to stay. My next question, how do I go about making the swithc? This is a big difference from my current levels. Should I do a series of real small water changes over the course of a couple weeks?
What do you all thinK?
Temp at 80, and salinity of 35ppm:
pH - 8.2
Ca - 350
Alk - 4.8 meq/L
So I guess that this is where this batch is going to stay. My next question, how do I go about making the swithc? This is a big difference from my current levels. Should I do a series of real small water changes over the course of a couple weeks?
What do you all thinK?
squidd
Active Member
Is this in your 20 gal?
I say go ahead and change out 2-3 gals...10%
Same temp,SG,etc...The change in calcium and Alk in such a small amount should not affect your tank in any drastic way...
Not much different then adding a scoop of Turbo Calc or a dose of B-Ionic.
You may want to check the PH in the tank to compare with the -- you mixed...But if its within a "point" or two again the change with 10% won't be that drastic or harmful.
I say go ahead and change out 2-3 gals...10%
Same temp,SG,etc...The change in calcium and Alk in such a small amount should not affect your tank in any drastic way...
Not much different then adding a scoop of Turbo Calc or a dose of B-Ionic.
You may want to check the PH in the tank to compare with the -- you mixed...But if its within a "point" or two again the change with 10% won't be that drastic or harmful.
squidd
Active Member
The alkalinity we "measure" is just the level of "buffering capacity" of the water to maintain PH.
A drastic change in PH is what your fish would "feel".
A change in Alk level (slowly through a course of water changes) will not have any "negative" effects. And will help in keeping Calcium and Alk in "balance"which in turn allows PH to remain "stable".
A drastic change in PH is what your fish would "feel".
A change in Alk level (slowly through a course of water changes) will not have any "negative" effects. And will help in keeping Calcium and Alk in "balance"which in turn allows PH to remain "stable".